jpr1379

OK was going to put this in the mechanic section but figured I would put it here first where there might be people running into a similiar problem. Ok so I have a 2002 Trek 4300 MTB and a 2008 Fuji Newest 3.0. Granted not top of the line but not a walmart special either. So I may have a 1000 miles on the fuji by now and not even close to that on the Trek and I weigh 212 down from 250+. I had shifting issues with the Trek (shifting two up to get one gear) so I replaced the chain and it shifts beautiful but still get skips when I get on it hard up a hill. Now the Fuji is exhibiting the same problems so I will be replacing the chain. Both cassettes are significantly worn, the teeth are looking like a saw blade and the valley looks more like a W.Now the question is has any one else had excessive wear in the chains and cassettes and if so what have you replaced them with and has given you the longest life? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Just want to sense of what people have had luck with because as you know every company claims their product is the best.

sstorkel

Sounds like you need to replace both chains and cassettes! I new chain on a "significantly worn" cassette will still be prone to problems...

I've had good luck with both Shimano and SRAM chains and cassettes. I tend to use SRAM chains since their master link is easier to use than Shimano chain pins. Surprisingly, the higher-end chains seem to last a bit longer for me, though I don't know whether it's enough to justify the price increase. I usually wait until they're on sale and buy 2-3 at a time; they'll get used eventually.

fly7hotel

1000 miles isn't much for a chain OR cassette. Before you invest in new parts add a chain gauge to your toolbox. You might just need to have the drive train adjusted. Do you have a LBS you trust?

jethro56 

I think we need more info. The way I'm reading this is you have a 2002 bike and a 2008 bike with less than 1000 miles on each. If you bought them new then the problem is one of the chains rusting during storage. Rain is a real problem with any chain and unless you can store the chain indoors you'll just have these problems. If you're bought these bikes used then we really don't know if the wear is excessive as the miles are not known as well as the previous maintence.

skilsaw

+1 to Chains and Cassettes lasting more than 1000 miles.
Chains wear out (stretch) faster than cassettes wearing out.

Having to shift down two and back one could be shifter cable adjustment
or a sticky cable inside the cover.

If you are not familiar with how to fix this, I'd let the LBS do it.

jpr1379

Yeah sorry it was a little sporadic description the first time. So bought both bikes new.I replaced the chain and adjusted the derailer on the mtb and it now shifts beautifly but it will still skip when pushing hard. On the Fuji the shifting is not consistent. I will have to double shift up to get one gear and now it will hang up for a few seconds going into the smallest gear. I have adjusted the derailer and I can play with shift cable adjuster on the down tube to get it to respond a little better. Nothings hung up, bent, broken or had a curse put on it. As far as the chain goes it may not be stretched but the rollers have alot of side to side wear. As it travels arond the cogs it likes to dance back and for like it wants to jump the gear just like the mtb chain did. As for the cogs theteeth look like the teeth on a circular saw and the valley is more of a "W" than a "U" shape.

jpr1379

Oh yeah the fuji and trek will both skip teeth as well under heavy load.

rdtompki

What procedure are you using to adjust the RD? If you're not using Park Tools or Sheldon Brown, take a look at one of these websites. Sometimes shifting on the stand is not exactly the same as shifting under load. Have you tried tweaking the RD cable barrel adjuster while riding after this problem occurs?

goldfinch

Are you cross chaining a lot? How often do you clean and lube your chain?

jpr1379

I found the procedure online and didnt get that great a result and talked to LBS he gave a couple little pointers that were missed in the tutorial and it shifted beautiful afterwards. Skipping teeth was still present though. I'll check the sheldon brown site out. I've got two barrel adjusters on the fuji I'm not sure if the one on the down tube is for adjusting while riding or if it serves a different function.

jpr1379

Explain cross chaining for me. I know I read it on another post but just want to make sure I'm thinking of it correctly.

jpr1379

Yes the procedure I used for the derailer is the same as sheldon browns.

jethro56 

You may have two different problems. The cassette wear issue could be resolved by going to Walmart and looking at a cassete on one of their bikes. The shape of the teeth and yours should be the same. Looking at them head on (a profile view), Your cassettes will have teeth that the sides have been machined. That's to aide in shifting, it's not wear.

I'll assume that the shifting issues are not specific to certain gear combinations as in it shifts well in the smaller sprockets but has problems with the larger sprockets or vice versus. If that was the symptom I'd think bent derailleur hanger. My best guess is that you have cable sticking problems though it sometimes is a (rarer) sticky shifter. the first cable/housing problem is usually the last bit of housing right before the rear derailleur. To check it without loosening the cable clamp screw Shift to smallest rear sprocket, remove rear wheel and push in (towards the center of bike) on the rear derailleur. This will allow you to get enough cable slack to remove the housing from the cable stop on the chain stay. Slide the housing up the cable and inspect for rust. Report back on what you find.

goldfinch

It comes from not having a straight chain line. Not all gears are available on the bike. For example, using the smallest couple of rear cogs with the smallest front ring, or using the largest couple of rear cogs with the largest front ring can cause a rubbing problem which is hard on the chain which can cause it to stretch and also damage the teeth on the gears.

jpr1379

Ok thanks for all the input. I do appreciate the help but I'm not asking for help diagnosing the problem. I know wht the problem is. Everything mentioned has been triple checked,adjusted and readjusted. I just was wondering what the most durable casstte would be for swomeone over 200 lbs.

sstorkel

Cassettes get worn due to: 1) high power output, 2) cross-chaining, 3) poor maintenance. Weight doesn't really factor into the equation too much. In theory, you should buy a cassette that matches the rest of your drive-train (ex: Shimano cassette if you're using Shimano derailleurs and shifters) because it may offer slightly better shifting performance. Avoid the absolute cheapest stuff and the most expensive stuff. Everything in the middle works and wears about the same in my experience...

jpr1379

OK thanks. The trek has a sram 5.0 so I think I'll be switching out with a sram 850. Not too sure about the fuji I'll probably go with a shimano for it. I saw a titanium cassette but it was way out of my price range lol.