New Bike!!! he he he
11-29-12, 08:19 PM
#26
Senior Member
Frame Level Deluxe fillet brazed
Features Oversized tubing
Disc Brake
Pump Peg
26” wheels
Schmidt dyno hub
Front and rear racks
3 H20 Bosses
Seat Tube bilaminate/ Reinforcement
Top tube and down tube bilam at headtube
E - werks charging system
Brakes Detail
Disc Tab Integral to dropout
Split Stops Down tube triple stops, single stops under left chainstay
Gear
Triple stops underneath downtube
Split stop front derailleur behind seat tube above BB Sheel
Split Stop – rear der. Under chainstay 2.75” from DO edge
Split stop Under chainstay 2 " behind BB Shell
Accessories
Pump Peg Head Tube nipple (+ “L” peg if S & S )
Chain Hanger Inside right chainstay
Chainstay Bridge Use chart for 26 x 2.0 w/ fender
Seat Stay Bridge same
H2O Bosses DT top 1set, DT under 1Set , ST 1set
Seat post clamp Pinch bolt mount to bilaminate
Rack eyelets Integral to dropout
Fender Eyelets Integral to dropout
Rack mounts Barrel boss - 16.25" from eyelet
Fork
Fender Eyelets Behind dropout
Rack mount Barrel Boss - back side of blade @ 6.5"
Drill Crown For Supernova head light mount
Item Description Qty. Manufacturer Model Specification
1 Hub Rear 1 White industries Daisy 48 hole, 145mm
2 Hub Front 1 Son 28 classic 40 hole
3 Rear Skewer 1 Shimano LX 36 hole
4 Front Skewer 1 Shimano LX 36 hole
5 Rear Rim 1 Velocity Dyad 48 hole
6 Front Rim 1 Velocity Dyad 40 hole
7 Spokes Wheelsmith DB 14/15
8 Spoke nipples DT Brass
9 Rear Tire 1 Schwalbe Big apple 26 x 2.0
10 Front Tire 1 Schwalbe Big apple 26 x 2.0
11 Tubes 2 Quality Presta 26 x 2
12 Rim Strip 2 Velox Cloth
13 Crank Set 1 Sugino XD 175
14 Chain Rings 1 Sugino 24-36-48
15 Bottom Bracket 1 Shimano un-54 113
16 Pedals 0 Shimano Spd platform/clipless
17 Front Derraileur 1 Shimano Tiagra triple Bottom pull, 28.6 clamp on
18 Rear Derraileur 1 Shimano Deore XT SGS 9spd
19 Shift levers 1 Shimano Ultegra Bar-con 9-speed
20 Shift lever adaptor 0
21 Chain 1 KMC X9.93 9-speed
22 Cassette 1 SRAM PG 951 11 - 36 9spd
23 Calipers 2 Avid BB7 Road Mech
24 Brake levers 1 Sram Road Aero
25 Brake cables 2 Jagwire slick stainless
Inline adjuster 0
26 Head Set 1 FSA Needlbearing 1 1/8"
27 Cablehanger 0 Problem Solver
28 Handlebars 1 Nitto Noodle 48cm
29 Stem Front 1 Ritchey 4 axis 10
30 Tape 1 Cinelli Cork w/ gel pads underneath Black
31 Seatpost binder 1 Sugino Allen key type
32 Seatpost 1 Thomson micro adjust 27.2
33 Saddle 1 Brooks B-17 Special Color
Inbound freight
Accessories
34 Rack Tubus Cargo Rear, Tara Front 26"
35 Bottle cages
36 Fenders SKS Longboard
37 Computer
38 Pump
39 Lights Busch and Mueller Lumotec Fly RT
40 Charging system E-Werks w/ cache battery
Features Oversized tubing
Disc Brake
Pump Peg
26” wheels
Schmidt dyno hub
Front and rear racks
3 H20 Bosses
Seat Tube bilaminate/ Reinforcement
Top tube and down tube bilam at headtube
E - werks charging system
Brakes Detail
Disc Tab Integral to dropout
Split Stops Down tube triple stops, single stops under left chainstay
Gear
Triple stops underneath downtube
Split stop front derailleur behind seat tube above BB Sheel
Split Stop – rear der. Under chainstay 2.75” from DO edge
Split stop Under chainstay 2 " behind BB Shell
Accessories
Pump Peg Head Tube nipple (+ “L” peg if S & S )
Chain Hanger Inside right chainstay
Chainstay Bridge Use chart for 26 x 2.0 w/ fender
Seat Stay Bridge same
H2O Bosses DT top 1set, DT under 1Set , ST 1set
Seat post clamp Pinch bolt mount to bilaminate
Rack eyelets Integral to dropout
Fender Eyelets Integral to dropout
Rack mounts Barrel boss - 16.25" from eyelet
Fork
Fender Eyelets Behind dropout
Rack mount Barrel Boss - back side of blade @ 6.5"
Drill Crown For Supernova head light mount
Item Description Qty. Manufacturer Model Specification
1 Hub Rear 1 White industries Daisy 48 hole, 145mm
2 Hub Front 1 Son 28 classic 40 hole
3 Rear Skewer 1 Shimano LX 36 hole
4 Front Skewer 1 Shimano LX 36 hole
5 Rear Rim 1 Velocity Dyad 48 hole
6 Front Rim 1 Velocity Dyad 40 hole
7 Spokes Wheelsmith DB 14/15
8 Spoke nipples DT Brass
9 Rear Tire 1 Schwalbe Big apple 26 x 2.0
10 Front Tire 1 Schwalbe Big apple 26 x 2.0
11 Tubes 2 Quality Presta 26 x 2
12 Rim Strip 2 Velox Cloth
13 Crank Set 1 Sugino XD 175
14 Chain Rings 1 Sugino 24-36-48
15 Bottom Bracket 1 Shimano un-54 113
16 Pedals 0 Shimano Spd platform/clipless
17 Front Derraileur 1 Shimano Tiagra triple Bottom pull, 28.6 clamp on
18 Rear Derraileur 1 Shimano Deore XT SGS 9spd
19 Shift levers 1 Shimano Ultegra Bar-con 9-speed
20 Shift lever adaptor 0
21 Chain 1 KMC X9.93 9-speed
22 Cassette 1 SRAM PG 951 11 - 36 9spd
23 Calipers 2 Avid BB7 Road Mech
24 Brake levers 1 Sram Road Aero
25 Brake cables 2 Jagwire slick stainless
Inline adjuster 0
26 Head Set 1 FSA Needlbearing 1 1/8"
27 Cablehanger 0 Problem Solver
28 Handlebars 1 Nitto Noodle 48cm
29 Stem Front 1 Ritchey 4 axis 10
30 Tape 1 Cinelli Cork w/ gel pads underneath Black
31 Seatpost binder 1 Sugino Allen key type
32 Seatpost 1 Thomson micro adjust 27.2
33 Saddle 1 Brooks B-17 Special Color
Inbound freight
Accessories
34 Rack Tubus Cargo Rear, Tara Front 26"
35 Bottle cages
36 Fenders SKS Longboard
37 Computer
38 Pump
39 Lights Busch and Mueller Lumotec Fly RT
40 Charging system E-Werks w/ cache battery
Sounds like it is going to be a great ride.
11-30-12, 05:44 AM
#27
Senior Member
Very Cool Chef. I'm jealous. I always wanted to tour. Years ago, I equipped my mtb for it. I bought slicks, racks, panniers, equipment and was even in the planning stages......then I fell in love.
Needless to say 20+ years later, still have the bike & girl.....with none of the rest. Touring is not in my future, but still something I would love to do.
Good luck with the new bike. If you ever looking to tour the Adirondacks, contact me. There is a bike shop in our area, that sets them up (or so they say). I could also offer some suggested rides.
Needless to say 20+ years later, still have the bike & girl.....with none of the rest. Touring is not in my future, but still something I would love to do.
Good luck with the new bike. If you ever looking to tour the Adirondacks, contact me. There is a bike shop in our area, that sets them up (or so they say). I could also offer some suggested rides.
11-30-12, 08:28 AM
#28
I am the Snail~!
That sounds so cool~! I don't know what a lot of it means... but what I got out of it, is you've got plenty of low gears, you'll be using Big Apples 26X2.00, have fenders, 3 bottle racks, and front and rear racks on this baby~! BB7 disc brakes, and a SON hub?? A great set of comfortable bars...
Questions? The frame itself - what makes it any different from the multitude of great frames that aren't custom? What will it be made from (Material?) - Lastly, have you decided on color(s) yet? It sounds wonderful~! Do we have any guess for about what it will weigh?
Questions? The frame itself - what makes it any different from the multitude of great frames that aren't custom? What will it be made from (Material?) - Lastly, have you decided on color(s) yet? It sounds wonderful~! Do we have any guess for about what it will weigh?
11-30-12, 09:04 AM
#29
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I am very up to date on ultra light camping gear if you need to research that in addition to your bike, I am happy to point you in the right direction. I have personally tried a pretty decent portion of it. Before I found biking, I was a backpacking nut.
11-30-12, 09:45 AM
#30
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Out of curiosity, why the 48-40 rims and 2" tires?
11-30-12, 01:35 PM
#33
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That sounds so cool~! I don't know what a lot of it means... but what I got out of it, is you've got plenty of low gears, you'll be using Big Apples 26X2.00, have fenders, 3 bottle racks, and front and rear racks on this baby~! BB7 disc brakes, and a SON hub?? A great set of comfortable bars...
Questions? The frame itself - what makes it any different from the multitude of great frames that aren't custom? What will it be made from (Material?) - Lastly, have you decided on color(s) yet? It sounds wonderful~! Do we have any guess for about what it will weigh?
Questions? The frame itself - what makes it any different from the multitude of great frames that aren't custom? What will it be made from (Material?) - Lastly, have you decided on color(s) yet? It sounds wonderful~! Do we have any guess for about what it will weigh?
Color... no clue yet either. That is a little ways away.
The frame material: I will know next week. The advantage (one of them that is) of going custom is they can use other material for the frame that will suit my need. I am a tall and heavy rider and the gear will also add weight so all of this is taken into consideration when building the frame.
More to come for sure!
11-30-12, 04:26 PM
#34
Not safe for work
12-01-12, 04:10 PM
#36
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Congrats.
I went through the custom process myself -- more of a long-ride road bike that could handle gravel. The process is as much fun (or can be!) as the finished product. The key is to "click" with the builder, and develop a rapport. A true custom (made by one person, or in your case a couple) is really a collaboration -- your ideas and thoughts mapped with their knowledge of frame, process, tubing, and things like the interplay between trail, rake, chainstay length and handling, both loaded and not. Then there's the fun stuff like group set, hubs, etc., though I see you have chosen much of that.
With any custom builder, though, you need to walk a fine line between allowing time for the process to happen and keeping enough of a link that they keep working towards delivery. I know personally of many builders being on the slow side, and knew this heading in. If I were you I'd make sure that Stephen knows of the May ride, and the need to get the bike done by then.
Oh, and if I get a vote -- steel. Steel. I went Columbus (three different models) and listened to the builder on where to go standard vs. oversized, and deferred to him on rake, trail, and angles. Oh, and lugged, but I'm old fashioned.
If you want to talk to someone who's been through this, feel free to PM me. And, congrats. Nothing like a handmade bike just for you.
I went through the custom process myself -- more of a long-ride road bike that could handle gravel. The process is as much fun (or can be!) as the finished product. The key is to "click" with the builder, and develop a rapport. A true custom (made by one person, or in your case a couple) is really a collaboration -- your ideas and thoughts mapped with their knowledge of frame, process, tubing, and things like the interplay between trail, rake, chainstay length and handling, both loaded and not. Then there's the fun stuff like group set, hubs, etc., though I see you have chosen much of that.
With any custom builder, though, you need to walk a fine line between allowing time for the process to happen and keeping enough of a link that they keep working towards delivery. I know personally of many builders being on the slow side, and knew this heading in. If I were you I'd make sure that Stephen knows of the May ride, and the need to get the bike done by then.
Oh, and if I get a vote -- steel. Steel. I went Columbus (three different models) and listened to the builder on where to go standard vs. oversized, and deferred to him on rake, trail, and angles. Oh, and lugged, but I'm old fashioned.
If you want to talk to someone who's been through this, feel free to PM me. And, congrats. Nothing like a handmade bike just for you.
12-01-12, 07:08 PM
#37
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Congrats.
I went through the custom process myself -- more of a long-ride road bike that could handle gravel. The process is as much fun (or can be!) as the finished product. The key is to "click" with the builder, and develop a rapport. A true custom (made by one person, or in your case a couple) is really a collaboration -- your ideas and thoughts mapped with their knowledge of frame, process, tubing, and things like the interplay between trail, rake, chainstay length and handling, both loaded and not. Then there's the fun stuff like group set, hubs, etc., though I see you have chosen much of that.
With any custom builder, though, you need to walk a fine line between allowing time for the process to happen and keeping enough of a link that they keep working towards delivery. I know personally of many builders being on the slow side, and knew this heading in. If I were you I'd make sure that Stephen knows of the May ride, and the need to get the bike done by then.
Oh, and if I get a vote -- steel. Steel. I went Columbus (three different models) and listened to the builder on where to go standard vs. oversized, and deferred to him on rake, trail, and angles. Oh, and lugged, but I'm old fashioned.
If you want to talk to someone who's been through this, feel free to PM me. And, congrats. Nothing like a handmade bike just for you.
I went through the custom process myself -- more of a long-ride road bike that could handle gravel. The process is as much fun (or can be!) as the finished product. The key is to "click" with the builder, and develop a rapport. A true custom (made by one person, or in your case a couple) is really a collaboration -- your ideas and thoughts mapped with their knowledge of frame, process, tubing, and things like the interplay between trail, rake, chainstay length and handling, both loaded and not. Then there's the fun stuff like group set, hubs, etc., though I see you have chosen much of that.
With any custom builder, though, you need to walk a fine line between allowing time for the process to happen and keeping enough of a link that they keep working towards delivery. I know personally of many builders being on the slow side, and knew this heading in. If I were you I'd make sure that Stephen knows of the May ride, and the need to get the bike done by then.
Oh, and if I get a vote -- steel. Steel. I went Columbus (three different models) and listened to the builder on where to go standard vs. oversized, and deferred to him on rake, trail, and angles. Oh, and lugged, but I'm old fashioned.
If you want to talk to someone who's been through this, feel free to PM me. And, congrats. Nothing like a handmade bike just for you.
Thank you for all of that info! I appreciate it!
12-01-12, 09:48 PM
#38
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Just some ideas
Chef, I took another look at your build list and thought I would give you some of my thoughts as unsolicited, but I hope constructive advice
12 Rim Strip 2 Velox Cloth
I might suggest a different approach using either a Plastic Rim Strip such as those made by Continental (Easy Tape) or Ritchey.
Click HERE and HERE
Another option is Velocity Rim Plugs. Click HERE
I have found that Velox Cloth is not really reusable should a mid-trip spoke repair be needed and it also tends to dry out over time and become brittle. The options I suggest do not suffer those shortcomings.
15 Bottom Bracket 1 Shimano un-54 113
I would suggest using a Shimano UN-55 in place of the UN-54. The 55 is available in the same size but offers an Aluminum Retainer on the non-Drive side verses a Plastic one that comes with the 54. The 55 would be a tad stronger on both sides of the bottom bracket and easier to service by reducing the possibility of stripping the retainer when trying to extract it without a huge weight penalty
UN-55 Bottom Bracket
UN-54 Retainer/Cup
23 Calipers 2 Avid BB7 Road Mech
You might want to consider using the Mountain (MTB) version of Avid’s BB7s. I am told that they offer better seals and slightly beefier mounts than the road version. I do not have first hand experience with the road versions though.
Hope This Helps
12 Rim Strip 2 Velox Cloth
I might suggest a different approach using either a Plastic Rim Strip such as those made by Continental (Easy Tape) or Ritchey.
Click HERE and HERE
Another option is Velocity Rim Plugs. Click HERE
I have found that Velox Cloth is not really reusable should a mid-trip spoke repair be needed and it also tends to dry out over time and become brittle. The options I suggest do not suffer those shortcomings.
15 Bottom Bracket 1 Shimano un-54 113
I would suggest using a Shimano UN-55 in place of the UN-54. The 55 is available in the same size but offers an Aluminum Retainer on the non-Drive side verses a Plastic one that comes with the 54. The 55 would be a tad stronger on both sides of the bottom bracket and easier to service by reducing the possibility of stripping the retainer when trying to extract it without a huge weight penalty
UN-55 Bottom Bracket
UN-54 Retainer/Cup
23 Calipers 2 Avid BB7 Road Mech
You might want to consider using the Mountain (MTB) version of Avid’s BB7s. I am told that they offer better seals and slightly beefier mounts than the road version. I do not have first hand experience with the road versions though.
Hope This Helps
Last edited by Deaver; 12-02-12 at 09:34 AM.
12-03-12, 11:21 AM
#39
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Chef, I took another look at your build list and thought I would give you some of my thoughts as unsolicited, but I hope constructive advice
12 Rim Strip 2 Velox Cloth
I might suggest a different approach using either a Plastic Rim Strip such as those made by Continental (Easy Tape) or Ritchey.
Click HERE and HERE
Another option is Velocity Rim Plugs. Click HERE
I have found that Velox Cloth is not really reusable should a mid-trip spoke repair be needed and it also tends to dry out over time and become brittle. The options I suggest do not suffer those shortcomings.
15 Bottom Bracket 1 Shimano un-54 113
I would suggest using a Shimano UN-55 in place of the UN-54. The 55 is available in the same size but offers an Aluminum Retainer on the non-Drive side verses a Plastic one that comes with the 54. The 55 would be a tad stronger on both sides of the bottom bracket and easier to service by reducing the possibility of stripping the retainer when trying to extract it without a huge weight penalty
UN-55 Bottom Bracket
UN-54 Retainer/Cup
23 Calipers 2 Avid BB7 Road Mech
You might want to consider using the Mountain (MTB) version of Avid’s BB7s. I am told that they offer better seals and slightly beefier mounts than the road version. I do not have first hand experience with the road versions though.
Hope This Helps
12 Rim Strip 2 Velox Cloth
I might suggest a different approach using either a Plastic Rim Strip such as those made by Continental (Easy Tape) or Ritchey.
Click HERE and HERE
Another option is Velocity Rim Plugs. Click HERE
I have found that Velox Cloth is not really reusable should a mid-trip spoke repair be needed and it also tends to dry out over time and become brittle. The options I suggest do not suffer those shortcomings.
15 Bottom Bracket 1 Shimano un-54 113
I would suggest using a Shimano UN-55 in place of the UN-54. The 55 is available in the same size but offers an Aluminum Retainer on the non-Drive side verses a Plastic one that comes with the 54. The 55 would be a tad stronger on both sides of the bottom bracket and easier to service by reducing the possibility of stripping the retainer when trying to extract it without a huge weight penalty
UN-55 Bottom Bracket
UN-54 Retainer/Cup
23 Calipers 2 Avid BB7 Road Mech
You might want to consider using the Mountain (MTB) version of Avid’s BB7s. I am told that they offer better seals and slightly beefier mounts than the road version. I do not have first hand experience with the road versions though.
Hope This Helps
12-03-12, 01:44 PM
#40
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With today's rim technology, I think 48h and 40h are overkill, at least for a single that's going to be used on roads and rail-trails. (40h in the front especially, since you load is limitied to what you can fit in your front panniers and possibly a bar bag.) Also, you are getting 26" wheel, so they will be a little stronger than 700c to begin with.
When I crossed the country I had crappy 36h rims and was carrying a good amount of weight. (My load included a medium format camera with three lenses and a 35mm.) I had to have my rear one replaced in Bowling Green, OH. There were cracks around most of the spoke holes. As I only had 1.5 days, the best they could do was sell me the 48h wheel off a tandem. Dragged that wheel around for the rest of the tour and two more long ones. Added weight. Added wind resistance.
The 36h Alex Adventurer rims that came on both my LHT's have performed flawlessly with good-sized loads over some less than smooth terrain, including about 60 miles of dirt/rock in MT last year. Back in '09 I bent the hanger on my first LHT and shifted my RD into my spokes during a climb. The RD exploaded into a million pieces. The rear wheel was barely tweeked.
I think 2" tires will make you feel like you are riding through glue. 35c or 37c should be sufficient. I actually just put 32c on my LHT for my last overnighter. With my size and load, I don't think I would do any rough riding on them, but I would probably give them a go on a limestone or dirt trail.
YMMV.
When I crossed the country I had crappy 36h rims and was carrying a good amount of weight. (My load included a medium format camera with three lenses and a 35mm.) I had to have my rear one replaced in Bowling Green, OH. There were cracks around most of the spoke holes. As I only had 1.5 days, the best they could do was sell me the 48h wheel off a tandem. Dragged that wheel around for the rest of the tour and two more long ones. Added weight. Added wind resistance.
The 36h Alex Adventurer rims that came on both my LHT's have performed flawlessly with good-sized loads over some less than smooth terrain, including about 60 miles of dirt/rock in MT last year. Back in '09 I bent the hanger on my first LHT and shifted my RD into my spokes during a climb. The RD exploaded into a million pieces. The rear wheel was barely tweeked.
I think 2" tires will make you feel like you are riding through glue. 35c or 37c should be sufficient. I actually just put 32c on my LHT for my last overnighter. With my size and load, I don't think I would do any rough riding on them, but I would probably give them a go on a limestone or dirt trail.
YMMV.
12-03-12, 08:35 PM
#41
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With today's rim technology, I think 48h and 40h are overkill, at least for a single that's going to be used on roads and rail-trails. (40h in the front especially, since you load is limitied to what you can fit in your front panniers and possibly a bar bag.) Also, you are getting 26" wheel, so they will be a little stronger than 700c to begin with.
When I crossed the country I had crappy 36h rims and was carrying a good amount of weight. (My load included a medium format camera with three lenses and a 35mm.) I had to have my rear one replaced in Bowling Green, OH. There were cracks around most of the spoke holes. As I only had 1.5 days, the best they could do was sell me the 48h wheel off a tandem. Dragged that wheel around for the rest of the tour and two more long ones. Added weight. Added wind resistance.
The 36h Alex Adventurer rims that came on both my LHT's have performed flawlessly with good-sized loads over some less than smooth terrain, including about 60 miles of dirt/rock in MT last year. Back in '09 I bent the hanger on my first LHT and shifted my RD into my spokes during a climb. The RD exploaded into a million pieces. The rear wheel was barely tweeked.
I think 2" tires will make you feel like you are riding through glue. 35c or 37c should be sufficient. I actually just put 32c on my LHT for my last overnighter. With my size and load, I don't think I would do any rough riding on them, but I would probably give them a go on a limestone or dirt trail.
YMMV.
When I crossed the country I had crappy 36h rims and was carrying a good amount of weight. (My load included a medium format camera with three lenses and a 35mm.) I had to have my rear one replaced in Bowling Green, OH. There were cracks around most of the spoke holes. As I only had 1.5 days, the best they could do was sell me the 48h wheel off a tandem. Dragged that wheel around for the rest of the tour and two more long ones. Added weight. Added wind resistance.
The 36h Alex Adventurer rims that came on both my LHT's have performed flawlessly with good-sized loads over some less than smooth terrain, including about 60 miles of dirt/rock in MT last year. Back in '09 I bent the hanger on my first LHT and shifted my RD into my spokes during a climb. The RD exploaded into a million pieces. The rear wheel was barely tweeked.
I think 2" tires will make you feel like you are riding through glue. 35c or 37c should be sufficient. I actually just put 32c on my LHT for my last overnighter. With my size and load, I don't think I would do any rough riding on them, but I would probably give them a go on a limestone or dirt trail.
YMMV.
I too had dreams of touring, which I do, but I go the old man way. I enjoy the state tours that are big deals in the Midwest. Then I go one step further and use a tent Sherpa service. Lazy, luxurious and the panniers stay in the garage. OH my point was I have about 6k miles on the original 36h stock wheels and they have only needed truing once, andI weigh 275.
12-04-12, 08:02 AM
#42
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I have done a few supported tours in my day, including four Cycle Oregons and a CANDISC in North Dakota, which is a neat little ride if you are looking for something quaint and don't mind open scenery, and I am not an old man. But I always pitch my own tent, etc. I have gotten so used to it that it's not time consuming of chore-like to me.
12-05-12, 04:12 PM
#43
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12-05-12, 06:40 PM
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Odd question -- why go 26 inch wheels instead of 700c / 29? The latter will roll better on just about anything, and you can get a very burly rim.
12-07-12, 05:32 AM
#45
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The second meeting was on Wednesday and it went great. Did some more fitting, changed out some components (which I will post later) and we did talk paint color. Still working through the design. I would love to incorporate something culinary on the frame but have no clue what that would yet. I want the frame to pop though.
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waterbugg
Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling
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09-05-10 09:19 PM
