Major suckage
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Major suckage
OK, I admit that I'm a recovering Clyde, but I've recovered to the point that I weigh around 160 on a 6'2" frame. So I'm not putting a lot of stress on the bike frame.
Story goes like this. I bought a new GT with the aluminum GTR frame on April 18th of this year. I have about 5000 miles on it. I pretty much tore up the rear wheel, and bought a new rim. Not a super expensive one because I intend on upgrading my ride to a CF frame model when the money gets in. So, instead of swapping out the cassette myself, hey, at 5K it's time for a winter overhaul anyway. Dropped it off at my wife's favorite LBS, since the guy who sold it to me is closed for the winter. I could call him and he'd get to it eventually, but he will take his time doing it. So, I drop it off Tuesday on the way home from work.
Yesterday, got the call. They found a crack. One that I should have noticed, but somehow missed. Starts in the seat tube about 2" below the seat post clamp, and extends about 4" into the top tube. Frame is now junk. Stopped on the way home, and yup. There it is. Staring me in the face and asking me, hey, moron, how'd you miss this? I know that they guy who set it up tightened the clamp with a torque wrench, and I've never moved the seat post since, so I doubt that was the cause. And the seat post itself is pristine.
Before anyone asks, I've never crashed the bike. There isn't a dent, chipped paint, or even a scratch along the sides of the crack. Starts behind and travels across the seat tube/top tube weld. The weld is smooth and neat, typical of GT welds.
Guys there are really nice. Offered to call GT and ask how and where to take it for a warranty claim, even though they're a Trek/Raleigh dealer.. In addition to the guy I bought it from, whose availability until March is open to question, there's another small LBS that at least is open weekends. So far, no answer from GT. Which, I have heard, is SOP for their CS department.
Have I said good things about GT frames here? I believe I have. I take them all back.
Story goes like this. I bought a new GT with the aluminum GTR frame on April 18th of this year. I have about 5000 miles on it. I pretty much tore up the rear wheel, and bought a new rim. Not a super expensive one because I intend on upgrading my ride to a CF frame model when the money gets in. So, instead of swapping out the cassette myself, hey, at 5K it's time for a winter overhaul anyway. Dropped it off at my wife's favorite LBS, since the guy who sold it to me is closed for the winter. I could call him and he'd get to it eventually, but he will take his time doing it. So, I drop it off Tuesday on the way home from work.
Yesterday, got the call. They found a crack. One that I should have noticed, but somehow missed. Starts in the seat tube about 2" below the seat post clamp, and extends about 4" into the top tube. Frame is now junk. Stopped on the way home, and yup. There it is. Staring me in the face and asking me, hey, moron, how'd you miss this? I know that they guy who set it up tightened the clamp with a torque wrench, and I've never moved the seat post since, so I doubt that was the cause. And the seat post itself is pristine.
Before anyone asks, I've never crashed the bike. There isn't a dent, chipped paint, or even a scratch along the sides of the crack. Starts behind and travels across the seat tube/top tube weld. The weld is smooth and neat, typical of GT welds.
Guys there are really nice. Offered to call GT and ask how and where to take it for a warranty claim, even though they're a Trek/Raleigh dealer.. In addition to the guy I bought it from, whose availability until March is open to question, there's another small LBS that at least is open weekends. So far, no answer from GT. Which, I have heard, is SOP for their CS department.
Have I said good things about GT frames here? I believe I have. I take them all back.
Last edited by mprelaw; 12-06-12 at 02:13 PM.
#2
SuperGimp
Sounds like you've been inspired to get a new carbon frame a little earlier than you thought.
Frames crack, especially aluminum. Don't read too much into it. Hopefully GT will take care of it for you.
Frames crack, especially aluminum. Don't read too much into it. Hopefully GT will take care of it for you.
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Had GT warranty a frame for me once. Got a different year/color and had to pay $90.00 labor to have the shop switch everything over. Beware though, it's not a quick process.
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Not 5 minutes after my OP, the shop called. They got through to GT. I can take it to the other GT dealer in my area, where we can take pictures of the crack, and send them along to GT for evaluation of warranty coverage.
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Just looking at some of the GTR series 3, 4, and 5, the seat stays butt up below level where the top tube intersects. The tapering of the top tube thus focuses all the stress into that tiny triangular area where the seat post connects. If you're 6' 2" and ride a slightly smaller frame with the seat post mostly out, the weight of you sitting upright riding no hands puts a massive stress on that triangle. Coupled with the braze on boss underneath the top tube near the seat post, and the weld at the seat clamp, and you've got a potential of a stress fracture initiated just by the various welds. But maybe they did their CAD/CAM and ran some FEA to determine if the frame could take it. Best of luck on getting it fixed.
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I cannot speak for GT but I had the same issue with my Giant. You may need to go to a dealer to get the warranty set. And when the new frame comes, you may need to have a dealer shop put it together. Giant would not let anyone but a dealer do it and if I did it or another shop (my fav shop is not a Giant dealer) the warranty on the new frame would be void. So I payed the 100 bucks to have this shop swap and build the bike up.
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Just looking at some of the GTR series 3, 4, and 5, the seat stays butt up below level where the top tube intersects. The tapering of the top tube thus focuses all the stress into that tiny triangular area where the seat post connects. If you're 6' 2" and ride a slightly smaller frame with the seat post mostly out, the weight of you sitting upright riding no hands puts a massive stress on that triangle. Coupled with the braze on boss underneath the top tube near the seat post, and the weld at the seat clamp, and you've got a potential of a stress fracture initiated just by the various welds. But maybe they did their CAD/CAM and ran some FEA to determine if the frame could take it. Best of luck on getting it fixed.
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Quick update: my LBS who sold it to me called me yesterday. GT is honoring the warranty, and sending me a series 2 frame. I have the lower-grade series 3-5 frame, so it's an upgrade. If it's a 2013 version, it'll have internal cable routing along the top tube. Best part of it is, he's going to do the rebuild for free.
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Should bring him a case of local craft beer for helping ya out. Glad you get a new frameset
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Rule #10 // It never gets easier, you just go faster.
#12
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Nice resolution!
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Congrats! Sounds like you'll get a refreshed bike!
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Part of me is tempted to throw a 10 speed group on there, but realistically, in this area, a tight 12-25 8 speed is all I really need with a compact up front. Plus, I really like my Microshift shifters. Flawless for 5000+ miles.
I'd rather sink the money into a better wheelset.
I'd rather sink the money into a better wheelset.
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Nice. Nice of the shop to throw the labor in. Sounds like something you should go into their Facebook page and make a big deal about.
#17
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Quick update: my LBS who sold it to me called me yesterday. GT is honoring the warranty, and sending me a series 2 frame. I have the lower-grade series 3-5 frame, so it's an upgrade. If it's a 2013 version, it'll have internal cable routing along the top tube. Best part of it is, he's going to do the rebuild for free.
#18
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Just looking at some of the GTR series 3, 4, and 5, the seat stays butt up below level where the top tube intersects. The tapering of the top tube thus focuses all the stress into that tiny triangular area where the seat post connects. If you're 6' 2" and ride a slightly smaller frame with the seat post mostly out, the weight of you sitting upright riding no hands puts a massive stress on that triangle. Coupled with the braze on boss underneath the top tube near the seat post, and the weld at the seat clamp, and you've got a potential of a stress fracture initiated just by the various welds. But maybe they did their CAD/CAM and ran some FEA to determine if the frame could take it. Best of luck on getting it fixed.
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The shop that sold me the bike, and is doing the re-build, and handled the warranty claim with GT is Gregg's Canal Cruiser Bicycles, in Buzzards Bay, Mass. He specialized in used bikes, but is an authorized GT/Schwinn dealer.
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I suspect we should all note this as a lessons learned; 1) Get a frame that fits so the seatpost is in the proper distance; or if riding an undersized frame (by choice or need) then get a seatpost that is extra long to make sure in is deeply planted and not putting undo stress on the top of the seat tube area. Agreed?
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Well, if something seems too good to be true, it probably is. The saga continues. A month into this, and no resolution yet. They did send me the better 2 series frame, and the accompanying fork. But there's more.
Nice of GT to offer me an "upgraded frame". Nice in the abstract. However, the 3, 4 and 5 frames use a square taper BB. The 2 series uses a BB 30. And, since the 2 series frame has a carbon steerer fork, the entire headset is different. Of course, my present crankset won't fit a BB 30 bracket. So now GT is scrounging their parts inventory to see if they have an adapter that will let me use my present crank with a BB 30 bracket. Of course, the "free" rebuild is also now off the table. And the potential now for $pending $ome $$$. Real $$$. Because I'm wondering whether anyone still makes an 8 speed compatible crank that will fit a BB 30 bracket, if we can't adapt it somehow. I'm not exactly up on all of this technical crap.
Nice of GT to offer me an "upgraded frame". Nice in the abstract. However, the 3, 4 and 5 frames use a square taper BB. The 2 series uses a BB 30. And, since the 2 series frame has a carbon steerer fork, the entire headset is different. Of course, my present crankset won't fit a BB 30 bracket. So now GT is scrounging their parts inventory to see if they have an adapter that will let me use my present crank with a BB 30 bracket. Of course, the "free" rebuild is also now off the table. And the potential now for $pending $ome $$$. Real $$$. Because I'm wondering whether anyone still makes an 8 speed compatible crank that will fit a BB 30 bracket, if we can't adapt it somehow. I'm not exactly up on all of this technical crap.
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sell your old components on ebay, and build up the new frame. you can probably use the stem , bars, even brakes if you want. Sell the rest and get new stuff...heck a total groupset of apex for instance can be had under 600...brakes, crank, brifters, FD, RD, and chain. think you going to need a bb30 adapter almost any way you go with sram or shimano cranks.
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sell your old components on ebay, and build up the new frame. you can probably use the stem , bars, even brakes if you want. Sell the rest and get new stuff...heck a total groupset of apex for instance can be had under 600...brakes, crank, brifters, FD, RD, and chain. think you going to need a bb30 adapter almost any way you go with sram or shimano cranks.
I can also get a Microshift Arris 10 speed group for around $400.
Problem is, I'm going to upgrade to a CF frame anyway when my uncle's estate finally gets settled in the next month, so I'm thinking of selling the new frame and fork, and spending $30 to put a new 7 speed freewheel and chain on the old Schwinn, and using that for a back up bike. It has 126 mm spacing in the rear drop-outs and will take a 7 speed freewheel. 13-28 7 speed freewheels are dirt cheap. I think the Cyclone RD can handle a 28t cog. Right now it has a 13-27 6 speed freewheel.
Oh, and it's highly unlikely that the new bike will fly the GT logo.
My guy is currently trying to wheedle a new GTR 3 or 4 complete bike out of GT as a compromise. I'm not holding my breath.
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The old components aren't anything to write home about. FSA Tempo crank, 2300 FD and RD, Sun Race cassette ( probably worn), and Microshift shifters.
I can also get a Microshift Arris 10 speed group for around $400.
Problem is, I'm going to upgrade to a CF frame anyway when my uncle's estate finally gets settled in the next month, so I'm thinking of selling the new frame and fork, and spending $30 to put a new 7 speed freewheel and chain on the old Schwinn, and using that for a back up bike. It has 126 mm spacing in the rear drop-outs and will take a 7 speed freewheel. 13-28 7 speed freewheels are dirt cheap. I think the Cyclone RD can handle a 28t cog. Right now it has a 13-27 6 speed freewheel.
Oh, and it's highly unlikely that the new bike will fly the GT logo.
My guy is currently trying to wheedle a new GTR 3 or 4 complete bike out of GT as a compromise. I'm not holding my breath.
I can also get a Microshift Arris 10 speed group for around $400.
Problem is, I'm going to upgrade to a CF frame anyway when my uncle's estate finally gets settled in the next month, so I'm thinking of selling the new frame and fork, and spending $30 to put a new 7 speed freewheel and chain on the old Schwinn, and using that for a back up bike. It has 126 mm spacing in the rear drop-outs and will take a 7 speed freewheel. 13-28 7 speed freewheels are dirt cheap. I think the Cyclone RD can handle a 28t cog. Right now it has a 13-27 6 speed freewheel.
Oh, and it's highly unlikely that the new bike will fly the GT logo.
My guy is currently trying to wheedle a new GTR 3 or 4 complete bike out of GT as a compromise. I'm not holding my breath.
Shimano Tiagra: $375
Shimano 105: $566
Campy Veloce: $460
Campy Centaur: $595
SRAM Apex: $473
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