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  1. #1
    Senior Member tergal's Avatar
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    Replacing Suspension with Rigid

    Asking in here, since the crowd is nicer most of the time


    As some know I use a trek 4300 for Commuting to work,

    Well I noticed a few weeks ago a large amount of build up one of the pistons... tube.. stanchions.. the shiny silver things that i can not for the life of me remember their name while typing this .

    Anyway ,after cleaning it and taking note there is a slight break in the seal i believe , instead of replacing it with the same suntour fork i figured i would go for a ridged fork since i only use this bike for commuting these days.

    Ok so getting on with it ,

    http://mountain-bikes.findthebest.co...Trek-4300-Disc

    --The forks have 100mm of travel , how do you take that in to account on the ridged forks.

    --What would be your suggestion on steel or aluminum



    Ok just those two for now ,


    Oh and yes i am still working on the other frame and bike sanding paint sucks
    Tact is for people who arenít witty enough to use sarcasm.

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  2. #2
    got the climbing bug jsigone's Avatar
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    I've ridden both alum and steel rigid 29er forks. While the design of the alum fork I have was very nice and the flex was comfy over the rock garden, if it failed it would just snap/crack. Which is always in the back of you mind. Though I really did try to make the fork fail, I actually cracked the top tube of my frame doing so LOL (jumping). I'd pick steel for vote of confidence, but you can't argue that against as greatly engineered alum fork.

    When picking out a rigid, they will usually say something like " 80mm suspension corrected" or "100mm suspension corrected". If you get it wrong, it only changes the head tube angle by about 1*

  3. #3
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    I have done it a number of times. I generally get a Surly 1x1 fork. I run 26" wheels.
    Old steel makes me squeal!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsigone View Post
    When picking out a rigid, they will usually say something like " 80mm suspension corrected" or "100mm suspension corrected". If you get it wrong, it only changes the head tube angle by about 1*
    I don't know about that... I (mistakenly) put an 80mm-corrected fork on a bike designed for a 100mm suspension fork and it made the handling so nervous the bike was almost unrideable! The handling was so nervous, it was very difficult to keep the bike moving in a straight line!

    My advice would be to measure from the front fork axle to the crown race bearing and look for a replacement fork that's within 5-10mm of the same length. As far as steel vs. aluminum, I don't think it makes a different. If you were going to use low-volume road tires (ex: 700x23) I'd tell you to go with steel. With higher-volume tires I don't think it matters. Aluminum road bikes are known for having a harsh ride, but my mountain and touring bikes combine aluminum forks with high-volume tires (26x1.95 and 700x35) and ride beautifully.

  5. #5
    got the climbing bug jsigone's Avatar
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    Most MTBs are designed to handle either 80 TO 100mm forks. Swapping out 1* of head angle is like going down hill vs going up hill seating possition. It shouldn't make the front twitchy. Twitchy fronts comes from handlebars being to narrow and following the shoulder movements faster. Key to riding XC stlye 23" wide bars is to keep your head up and look forward. Another effect could be the offset was wrong/shortened, this would make more sense to me. Mt MTBs I run 27-28" wide bars, this helps opens your lungs and slows down the steering for more control.

    his bike i s a 26" MTB, smallest tires he can get are like 1.5" slicks

  6. #6
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    The axle center to fork crown-race seat distance is what a suspension corrected fork is meant to maintain.

    That retains the Head angle..

    Measure and compare..

  7. #7
    Senior Member maidenfan's Avatar
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    I've run Salsa and Surly steel forks - great products for a decent price.
    "Others don't understand because I train every day of my life as they have never trained a day in theirs." Alexandr Karelin - the most dominating Greco-Roman wrestler - ever

  8. #8
    Senior Member tergal's Avatar
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    http://www.wiggle.com.au/surly-instigator-rigid-fork/

    I like that one... just have to paint over the surly brand name .


    Thoughts ?
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by tergal View Post
    http://www.wiggle.com.au/surly-instigator-rigid-fork/

    I like that one... just have to paint over the surly brand name .


    Thoughts ?
    Looks good to me.

    Most of my bike forks are for 26" with 80mm travel so I use the 1x1. If the Instigator is a 26", 100mm travel,
    and fits the tires and brakes you want to use, I am sure it will work well for you.

    I have had good luck with Surly stuff.
    Old steel makes me squeal!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsigone View Post
    Most MTBs are designed to handle either 80 TO 100mm forks. Swapping out 1* of head angle is like going down hill vs going up hill seating possition. It shouldn't make the front twitchy.
    And yet, installing a fork that was 40mm longer magically cured all of the bike's handling problems! I no longer have the CAD files used when laying out the frame, which I built myself under the guidance of a master frame builder, but I have to wonder if your 1-degree calculation is correct...

    Twitchy fronts comes from handlebars being to narrow and following the shoulder movements faster.
    That is one possible explanation, among many. Steepening the steering angle, reducing trail, or putting more weight on the front tire (all three of which happen when the axle to crown race distance is reduced) can also cause problems.

    his bike i s a 26" MTB, smallest tires he can get are like 1.5" slicks
    I'm sure that any of the readily available 26x1.0 or 26x1.25 tires would also fit. In my experience, 26x1.5 works well with an aluminum fork.

  11. #11
    Senior Member tergal's Avatar
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    Actually I run 1.75s but will be ordering 26x1.5

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=24542

    That Surly Fork supports 2.7 tyre, and disc brakes.

    Unless someone can point out a flaw i think i will order one next pay

    hmm wonder if I can use this as a excuse to replace my handlebars
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tergal View Post
    http://www.wiggle.com.au/surly-instigator-rigid-fork/

    I like that one... just have to paint over the surly brand name .


    Thoughts ?
    I own one. It's a good fork given the price. On mine, the Surly branding is done with stickers. You might be able to remove the branding without needing to repaint...

  13. #13
    Senior Member tergal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sstorkel View Post
    I own one. It's a good fork given the price. On mine, the Surly branding is done with stickers. You might be able to remove the branding without needing to repaint...
    Great, was that or find some mud puddles on the road to ride though everyday
    Tact is for people who arenít witty enough to use sarcasm.

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  14. #14
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    The axle center to fork crown-race seat distance is what a suspension corrected fork is meant to maintain.

    That retains the Head angle..
    Not necessarily. Like many things in the bike industry, there's no standard on what the axle to crown-race distance should be for a given suspension fork. Does "100mm of travel" mean 100mm of travel with a 26x1.5" tire installed or 100mm of travel with a 26x2.7" tire installed? Depending on how much tire clearance the fork designer wants to allow the length of the fork can change, sometimes dramatically so. For this reason, you always want to know the axle to crown race distance of the original fork and the replacement before buying. Trust me: I've learned this the hard way!

  15. #15
    Senior Member tergal's Avatar
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    Thanks for all your help.

    Fork added to X-mass shopping list.

    o/
    Tergal
    Tact is for people who arenít witty enough to use sarcasm.

    Early helplessness is the price we pay for later brilliance. Or, at least our later capacity for non-idiocy

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