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  1. #1
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    All City Mr. Pink

    Hey everyone, a long time reader of the forum here and I'm posting to get some advice on a new purchase. I'm 6'4 210 and I'm looking for a road frame to replace my 80's cannondale r500 which I've been riding for the last few years. Ideally, I would like to get a steel frame and have been very impressed with the all-city mr pink. I already have a set of 36 spoke vdeeps/105 and would probably either get a stock build minus the wheels or run 105/ultegra. I like compact frames and know that a 58cm will work for me with a longish stem, but the head tube on the 61cm model is quite a bit taller (215 vs 190) and I prefer an upright riding position. I haven't had a chance to check out the 61cm model in person and was wondering if anyone here has had a hands on and could share their experience. Besides this model what other frames should I be checking out in the same price range? Thank you in advance.
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  2. #2
    Banned. Mr. Beanz's Avatar
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    If it is any help, tell the shop to leave the ster tube fo the fork uncut. You get a little more upright if it is left uncut.

    If they cut it, it will be low like a race set up.

    I left mine uncut for that reason.

  3. #3
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    I bought a Mr. Pink frame/fork this spring. I'm very happy with it so far (about 1200 miles). I got the 55 (i'm 5'11", 255 lb). It was just what I was looking for: a comfortable and fast road bike that could run 700cx28 tires. Handles very nice, stable, yet responsive. I did a century on it this summer with no real soreness or discomfort. It is stiffer than I expected. I don't notice any frame flex when climbing out of the saddle. Not heavy, but not feather-light either. Traditional, classic, well-built steel bike.

    I'm still luke-warm about the PF30 BB. I think it adds to the frame stiffness, but it really limits choice in cranks if you are building one up. I thought (wrongly) that I would be able to install an English to PF adapter and use my old square-taper crank, but found out the adapter doesn't work with traditional (non-exo) bottom brackets. Something to consider if you are looking at the frame/fork option. I expected the paint work to be better for the price, particularly around the color transitions. No one notices except me.

    I can't comment on the right size for you. I was in between the 52 and 55. The LBS guy and I agreed up to the 55 was a better fit. The seat tube angle is pretty upright on the Mr. Pink, so may want a few mm more saddle setback to get the position and balance you need. I run a 90 mm/6 deg stem flipped up with 40 mm of spacer. The uncut steerer is really long and strong steel so it can accommodate any height you need.

    As far as what else I looked at, the short list ended up as: the Soma Smoothie, the Surly Pacer, and the All City Mr. Pink. The Pacer was the first to come off due to the short head tube. No dealers carried Soma or All City in my area, so I was prepared to buy a frame unseen and unridden until a friend told me he had a friend who owned a shop about an hour away which stocked All City, and the owner loved the Mr. Pink. I test rode a built-up Mr. Pink and bought a frame/fork the same day.

    Good luck with your decision. Let me know if you have any questions.

  4. #4
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    Take a look at a Soma ES. Had it for a year now, no regrets.

  5. #5
    Senior Member adrien's Avatar
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    Nice bike. I would look at the Soma as mentioned, and also Jamis' steel bikes. Not sure if you can still get a Kona Kapu or not (maybe frame only) but that's a really nice frame as well (I have one, but not ready to let it go yet I don't think).

    I'm roughly the same size as you, though 6'3 and a little change, down to 205. Looking at the all city site, I think the 58, for me at least, would be on the small side. The real question is whether you can get the right setback on the saddle for efficient power transfer (depends on post and saddle height) and how much drop you can tolerate. You can do things to make the drop better (a taller stack with uncut tube, plus a steeper stem), but it may not be ideal.

    Do you have a bike that is comfortable now? I'd go out and measure it carefully, especially nose of saddle to the top of the hoods, nose of saddle to HS cap, setback from saddle to spindle. With those numbers (or better yet a fitting), you'll be able to see how compromised you'd be on the 58.

    Finally, it depends to some degree on fitness. I rode a smallish 58 for 5 years, and it felt fine most of the time. It was only as my weight dropped and my fitness increased that it felt cramped.

    Good luck and feel free to PM me if you wish.
    "how do you know you can't swim until you have drowned?"

  6. #6
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    The difference of 2.5 cm difference in the top tube is huge (58 to 60.5 cm). At 5'11" I would tend to shy away from the 61 cm frame unless you have an unusually long upper body for your height.
    Someone else suggested measuring your current ride, I concur. If the Cdale you ride now has that long of a top tube chances are the 61cm will work.
    Interestingly I am the same height and age, but 15# less in weight. I ride a 57-58 top tube depending upon the bike. If a non compact frame I will ride a 60cm frame with a 58 tt. There must be a steel frame in compact design that has a shorter tt than 60.5 for a 61cm seat tube frame.
    Look around some more and don't compromise.

  7. #7
    Senior Member adrien's Avatar
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    Jamis Satellite comp in a 61 may work better.

    http://www.myjamis.com/SSP%20Applica...cat_grp=road_8
    "how do you know you can't swim until you have drowned?"

  8. #8
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    Thanks for your comments everyone! Since posting here, I found a specialist in my area who does fittings and will try to work with him to get the right frame. I will try to update the post as I progress.

  9. #9
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    Back with an update. I was fitted recently and as it turns out the Mr Pink geometry will not work with my measurements. I'm looking for something with a shorter head tube to accommodate a long torso and short legs.

    I've started another post on the road forum looking for some frame recommendations: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...5-Long-and-Low

  10. #10
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    If you're looking for something similar to the All City with a shorter head tube look at Surly. I've built a bunch of both brands and They are similar in quality. I can't say for certain how every aspect of the geometries line up but I know for a fact that surly models have headtubes that are at the short end of the spectrum for any given size. Plus both brands are distributed by QBP so any shop that can get one can get the other.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by paisan View Post
    If you're looking for something similar to the All City with a shorter head tube look at Surly. I've built a bunch of both brands and They are similar in quality. I can't say for certain how every aspect of the geometries line up but I know for a fact that surly models have headtubes that are at the short end of the spectrum for any given size. Plus both brands are distributed by QBP so any shop that can get one can get the other.
    Thanks! The crosscheck is the right size, the only drawback is that I was really hoping for a frame that is a little lighter. I checked soma and salsa and the head tube is too tall on both all around their range. Jamis eclipse geometry fits, but the bike comes in a $3600 build... I'm currently looking to spend up to 650 on just the frame: with 105 group for 550 and another 300 for cockpit I should be well under my initial budget (i already have wheels). I hadn't realized how difficult it would be to find the right geometry, so now I'm not necessarily looking to stay with steel or aluminum, as long the size and price is right.

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