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Crit racing/ all around riding bike for a 200+ lb "sprinter"

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Crit racing/ all around riding bike for a 200+ lb "sprinter"

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Old 06-17-13, 01:41 PM
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Crit racing/ all around riding bike for a 200+ lb "sprinter"

Hi All,

I'm looking for a new race/training bike, primarily for crits and group rides, but it needs to be tolerable for a handful of longer rides as well. I want a stiff bike with Sram force or shimano Ultegra (or higher). I'm currently riding a 2001 Bianchi with an aluminum frame and shimano 105 9-speed (from '07)

I was thinking about trying to find a cannondale CAAD 9 or 10. my budget is around 1800 or so (I don't mind buying used if it's in good shape)

are there any other bikes I should be looking at?

other advice?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 06-17-13, 02:13 PM
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new caad 10 w/ ult is bit outside your range, you can get it with 105's for around $1500 new and then upgrades here and there

https://www.nytro.com/bike-gear/road-...ra-road-bike2/

but if you ride a 58, they might be able to ship this to you
https://www.nytro.com/bike-gear/road-...gra-road-bike/
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Old 06-17-13, 02:33 PM
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Honestly, it really doesn't matter. Crit racers, unlike the posing community, will not be bothered about your equipment. And nor, within limits, should you be. Anything that is functional and well-maintained will work fine.
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Old 06-17-13, 02:36 PM
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Wow, that looks like a good deal. I would be a little wary of dropping that much coin without test-riding first though... I currently ride a 59, but I think a 58 might fit me better, but I know every manufacturer sizes a little bit differently. I wonder if it would be worth test riding at a LBS.
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Old 06-17-13, 02:59 PM
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I went from a 590 ETT on compact geo bike to the C'dale 58 (575 TT) but 20mm shorter head tube. The cdale is more traditional geo and fits like a glove.

If you crash in a crit, your Giro will survive better then a Caad10 with it's thin alum walls. If your into crits and want to RACE, get a power meter and/or race wheelset, the bike frame won't do much yet. I'm too large to trust full carbon clinchers so I went with 50mm tubulars, spin up super fast, aero and stiff when I need it too be. Cheap enough that if I put them into a curb I won't cry too much.

You will however feel bike frame/fork improvements on longer rides such as faster club rides, not the 40min crit race.
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Old 06-17-13, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jsigone
If your into crits and want to RACE, get a power meter and/or race wheelset, the bike frame won't do much yet. I'm too large to trust full carbon clinchers so I went with 50mm tubulars, spin up super fast, aero and stiff when I need it too be. Cheap enough that if I put them into a curb I won't cry too much.
+1

Originally Posted by chasm54
Honestly, it really doesn't matter. Crit racers, unlike the posing community, will not be bothered about your equipment. And nor, within limits, should you be. Anything that is functional and well-maintained will work fine.
+1
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Old 06-18-13, 09:56 AM
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buy a frame you would not cry about if some newbie crashes the peleton.
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Old 06-19-13, 06:36 AM
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Yeah... I'm going to hold off for now. I'm going to try to fix my issue with my hubs, get everything tuned up, cleaned up, and ready to race. I'm going to satisfy my urge to buy something new with some new pedals to replace my 15 year old blue and yellow looks (on a red bike ugh). I might end up buying some halfway decent "race" wheels if I cant fix the issue with the hubs on my easton EA90s. I'm thinking these: https://www.rolwheels.com/wheels/wheel/race-slr
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Old 06-19-13, 12:15 PM
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i use the sapim cx ray spokes. love how stiff they are. only issue was when i was larger i was breaking the non drive side rear spokes. i ended up using the sapim force spokes for the non drive side and left the cx ray on the drive side and havnt had any issues since.
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Old 06-19-13, 01:08 PM
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I have the team issue R50 version of these and worth the cost. External nipples, 1200 grams, CXray spokes. I was about 220 when I got them and never a flex issue and bit lighter now. I have about 1500 miles on them and need to change out the rear tire soon. Pair them with yellow Kool Stop brake pads and are perfect for everything including those 5000ft mt decents we have here in Socal.

https://www.planet-x-usa.com/product-p/wppxcd.htm
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Old 06-20-13, 11:33 PM
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If "stiff" is one of your primary concerns with your new bike, I might suggest that there are probably better options than a Caad10. Cannondale has for many years been working away from the infamously overstiff characteristics of the Road 2.0 and Caad3 frames. At this point in time the Caad10 frames probably represent a best in class with regard to how much comfort (vertical flex) can be engineered into an aluminum frame. If you want "stiff" and are willing to compromise comfort for that, I would recommend you look for aluminum frames that don't incoorporate as many comfort features. Look for frames with simpler, straight, seat stays and reasonably straight oversized chainstays. There are two guys who regularly ride in one of my normal groups with just such bikes. One is a reasonably simple GT with some 105. The other is a Scott I think(???). Riding behind either of those guys, their bikes don't exhibit the up/down nor side to side flex of more comfortable frames. Even my Caad4 (with it's hourglass shaped stays) has occassionally recieved comment about how much it flexes from those behind me. But, that might be just as related to my 115kg weight.
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Old 06-22-13, 07:16 AM
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I'd suggest an Allez. Good goemetry for racing and comfortable enough for longer rides. Give one a try.

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Old 01-02-14, 07:38 AM
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Thanks all for your input.

I ended up picking up a 2006 CAAD8 frame, and I'm building it up with SRAM Red, ultegra, and 105 components. I think it'll be a great compromise for me. Should be stiff enough for my needs, will come in at ~17.5 lbs with somewhat racey training wheels (williams WS 30), and should be pretty good kit. my total cost pending the sale of some take-off components will be <$1000
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Old 01-02-14, 09:29 AM
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That older 8 is a USA made frame. Perfect crit racer IMO.

Whatever you saved will go into gas, license and race fee. If you have a spare wheel set, go ahead and throw them in the wheel pit.
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Old 01-02-14, 12:09 PM
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I'm a trackie - my race weight when competitive was 215 pounds --- I rode everything (you have to to get in any seat time ---it tooks too long to put on a match sprint and lotsa people get bored, ) -- but I excelled at the sprint disciplines,, as a category 3 trackie, the sprints in my local criteriums were laughable in the Cat4's if I was in a position to contest, or wasn't down a lap -- I loved coming home with swag, gift certificates and the occasional 50 dallar bill from prime sprints

I am now overweight, but can still churn up a pretty good sprint every now and then , --- I ride a 2013 Cannondale carbon Synapse -- being overweight, I needed the slightly taller head tube . I still ride a lot and can enter the occasional crit --- the Synapse I bought for comfort, but really, it is not the limiting factor in my sprints in the least
So much equipment selection seems to be in our heads with some exceptions

I think that aluminum C'dale will serve you well --- Cannondale works for me, and I was in a price range where I was considering Colnago and Pinarello -- the 'Dale was a bargain in comparison

Personally, my bike is a 105 10 speed machine --- I am really looking forward to getting the atrocious 105 shifters and rear der. off of there though---- those things will balk at a full power shift if I'm going slightly uphill and do not live up to the good service I had from Shimano 105 when I was younger and had no money ---- The first generation Dura Ace 10 speed stuff on my old bike is miles ahead of this stuff, although I like the looks of the under-bar cable routing ---- so that's the only personal warning I would give against using 105 for everything

Like another said too, get a spare set of wheels, you will eventually curb a set if you race enough and will want a quick swap to finish out the day


This is the current carbon sled --- its got a comfy driver's compartment, but I have had it up to 42 mph in a tailwind sprint with absolutely no issues from the bottom bracket area -- the BB30 stuff is phenomenal for that activity -- I do get some flex from the 105 level wheelset though , and as I mentioned, those shifters will be mothballed as soon as I can



A couple of old soldiers --- the blue one is the original Cannondale Criterium with a steel fork -- irs still competitively light, but could use some bar end shifters to get back into the mix (but just try finding a 7 speed back wheel in neutral support ) - its from 1988

Sa




The purple machine is from 1992 0r '3 -- note the "Criterium" sticker on the top tube -- they used to tweak the geometry a bit for their crit bikes, - little taller bottom bracket, steeper head tube and seat tube - but being a trackie, all these geometry tweaks were comfortable for me

Cannondale did, and still does, make good kit


.

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Old 01-06-14, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by jsigone
That older 8 is a USA made frame. Perfect crit racer IMO.

Whatever you saved will go into gas, license and race fee. If you have a spare wheel set, go ahead and throw them in the wheel pit.
Yeah, it's going to be sweet. My favorite crit is only ~12 miles from my house, runs every sunday moring, and reg is only $10. So yeah, I'm going to get a ton of racing per $$
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Old 01-06-14, 11:28 AM
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and there is no pit. I might leave some spare wheels with my GF though if she gets up early enough to watch...
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Old 01-06-14, 04:26 PM
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damn I wish our racing was that cheap!! Here in Socal, Crits/CX are $25-30 range, Road races are $35 range, XC racing is $45-60, Enduro MTB is $75, Endurance 12/24hr MTB is $110.
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Old 01-07-14, 08:10 AM
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I feel like the $10 race is not UCI / USA cycling sanctioned tho..
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Old 01-07-14, 08:44 AM
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$10 is pretty cheap. I've seen USAC sanctioned as low as $13 but nobody is making money at that rate.
I don't see anything listed on bikereg for Boston. Charge Pond training series in Plymouth is $20
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Old 01-07-14, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by IBOHUNT
$10 is pretty cheap. I've seen USAC sanctioned as low as $13 but nobody is making money at that rate.
I don't see anything listed on bikereg for Boston. Charge Pond training series in Plymouth is $20
Its a training crit. Wells ave. put on by Boston Road Club.
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Old 01-07-14, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by JReade
I feel like the $10 race is not UCI / USA cycling sanctioned tho..
"Held Under USA Cycling Event Permit. All fees include $3 insurance charge"

so I think that means that it is sanctioned...
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Old 01-07-14, 11:04 AM
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also I think the USAC fee/licenses went up this yr to combat amateur doping....
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Old 01-07-14, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Lmuir
"Held Under USA Cycling Event Permit. All fees include $3 insurance charge"

so I think that means that it is sanctioned...

I think that it's held under the permit for insurance purposes for the BRC, seeing as this is in the mix too..

"The volume of traffic coming to Wells Ave. on Sunday mornings has increased over the past few years. Businesses are familiar with our event since it has been there longer than any of the tenants! As with any bicycle race, especially a training event, your safety is paramount. We have a staff of marshals to keep traffic flowing in the proper direction. You are still required to pay attention, be courteous, and keep your eyes peeled for cars on the course. If one should appear in front of the field the field is neutralized until the car exits the course. DO NOT PASS THE CARS, we do not care if there is a break up the road. If there is a car on the straight during a prime or finishing sprint, the sprint will be neutralized and the prize will be delayed one lap"

If it's a sanctioned / legal race, you can get points, and use them to move up the ranks to turning pro. Generally has timers, officials from USA cycling, and a lot of the hoopla that goes with that.

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Old 01-07-14, 11:22 AM
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you can get easily a 2013 caad 10 ultegra (NEW) for that budget.. at least I got mine and I still had something to spare for pedals and saddle.
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