wheels aside, what are the most important bike upgrades?
#1
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wheels aside, what are the most important bike upgrades?
just wondering what, aside from wheels, are the most important upgrades one can make to their bike.
would be great to see a list of what you think.
would be great to see a list of what you think.
#2
SuperGimp
Saddle.
I'm not even convinced wheels are that big of a deal anymore, as long as they roll straight and are durable and not super flexy or super heavy.
I'm not even convinced wheels are that big of a deal anymore, as long as they roll straight and are durable and not super flexy or super heavy.
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+1
Bibs, saddle, shoes and bars. Anything that touches the bike will keep you on the bike longer if it fits and comfy for any length of time.
Bibs, saddle, shoes and bars. Anything that touches the bike will keep you on the bike longer if it fits and comfy for any length of time.
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#4
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I'm with Trojanhorse on this. Except, I'll expand my top line to include:
1. "Contact Points". All of them. Saddle, Shoes, Pedals, Bars, Gloves, Shorts. And getting there positions right.
2. Durable, no fuss, wheels and tires.
3. Shifters. I have for years viewed skepticly the manufacturers tendency to pair higher end rear derailers with lower grade shifters and even more importantly cassettes. I believe the greatest difference in shift quality can oftern be found first in upgrading the cassette. Have you noticed that Ultegra grade cassettes have two shifting ramps per cog vs 105's single? And then the shifters/brifters themselves.
4. Everything else
1. "Contact Points". All of them. Saddle, Shoes, Pedals, Bars, Gloves, Shorts. And getting there positions right.
2. Durable, no fuss, wheels and tires.
3. Shifters. I have for years viewed skepticly the manufacturers tendency to pair higher end rear derailers with lower grade shifters and even more importantly cassettes. I believe the greatest difference in shift quality can oftern be found first in upgrading the cassette. Have you noticed that Ultegra grade cassettes have two shifting ramps per cog vs 105's single? And then the shifters/brifters themselves.
4. Everything else
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#5
Senior Member
You mean besides a newer, stronger engine? (j/k)...
Seriously, I start with the three main points of bike/body contact...saddle, comfy bar tape, good cycling shoes and pedals.
Other upgrades are bike and situation dependent.
Seriously, I start with the three main points of bike/body contact...saddle, comfy bar tape, good cycling shoes and pedals.
Other upgrades are bike and situation dependent.
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1. Lights (two in front, two in back - one steady, one blinky both ends)
2. Reflective tape and hi-visibility clothing
3. Rear rack and good waterproof panniers (my Ortliebs are the best piece of bike gear I own)
4. Fenders
5. IGH rear hub
6. Saddle
Can you tell I'm an all-weather commuter in urban street traffic?
A lot depends on your intended use.... Being a clyde, a well-built rear wheel and solid overall assembly are important to me, too.
2. Reflective tape and hi-visibility clothing
3. Rear rack and good waterproof panniers (my Ortliebs are the best piece of bike gear I own)
4. Fenders
5. IGH rear hub
6. Saddle
Can you tell I'm an all-weather commuter in urban street traffic?
A lot depends on your intended use.... Being a clyde, a well-built rear wheel and solid overall assembly are important to me, too.
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I guess I am on another page... in terms of the bike alone I think upgrades would be:
Wheels
shifters
brakes
drivetrain
stem
seat post
From experience I can tell you the difference wheels and a new drivetrain can make. For instance: recently, because of a little "accident" I had to purchase new shifters for my mountain bike. I decided to upgrade from SLX to XT and boy what a different! Shifting went from OK to very smooth and swift. Well worth the price!
I tend to get the seat I want when I purchase the bike - I negotiate that in with the shop or online vender - but a good saddle is also worth the price. I also usually get a CK headset thrown in.
And don't discount little things like new crankarms (especially if the ones used previously are the wrong length), seat post, stem etc. I think any little upgrade or improvement is noticeable but I can understand not wanting to spend the money if things work fine as they are.
Wheels
shifters
brakes
drivetrain
stem
seat post
From experience I can tell you the difference wheels and a new drivetrain can make. For instance: recently, because of a little "accident" I had to purchase new shifters for my mountain bike. I decided to upgrade from SLX to XT and boy what a different! Shifting went from OK to very smooth and swift. Well worth the price!
I tend to get the seat I want when I purchase the bike - I negotiate that in with the shop or online vender - but a good saddle is also worth the price. I also usually get a CK headset thrown in.
And don't discount little things like new crankarms (especially if the ones used previously are the wrong length), seat post, stem etc. I think any little upgrade or improvement is noticeable but I can understand not wanting to spend the money if things work fine as they are.
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Forget wheels. Contact points are the prioroty; saddle, bars and pedals. Everything alse is just details.
#12
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I'll agree with the majority on contact points and then a bike fit...
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After the contact points, a good set of tires made a big difference on my road bike.
#14
Senior Member
In order of importance for me:
Getting a bike fit
Getting a new saddle
New wheels
The fit was the most valuable and the least expensive. The wheels were the least valuable and the most expensive. But they all contribute to making long rides a positive experience.
Getting a bike fit
Getting a new saddle
New wheels
The fit was the most valuable and the least expensive. The wheels were the least valuable and the most expensive. But they all contribute to making long rides a positive experience.
#16
Senior Member
I'll second the notion of putting a tire upgrade ahead of wheels. If you're riding around on wire bead, heavy rubber with some form of urethane puncture protection, a simple change to kevlar (folding) bead tires with reasonably light sidewalls (suited to your conditions) and an aramid puncture defense under a resonably light tread can shave hundreds of grams of rotating weight off a bike for a minimal amount of coin.
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Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
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