Suspension Seat Posts: Any reason for/against using these?
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Suspension Seat Posts: Any reason for/against using these?
Deciding if I want to add one to my second bike. Looking for input.
Also, seat width. What's a good size/style for a big guy on a hybrid?
Also, seat width. What's a good size/style for a big guy on a hybrid?
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My experience with a Cane Creek Thudbuster was negative. I think they are well-made and the theory makes sense, but I ended up selling mine. I found that the suspension "bounce" was jarring. If anything, it actually hurt my back. Bear in mind that I have a strong preference for drop bars, and flat bar bikes offroad generally give me back pain. Obviously for some, the Thudbuster works great (I sold it in three days on Ebay).
As far as seat size, sit bone width is not necessarily tied to the outward size of your body. Go for a fitting or use the do-it-yourself measuring methods described elsewhere on BF.
As far as seat size, sit bone width is not necessarily tied to the outward size of your body. Go for a fitting or use the do-it-yourself measuring methods described elsewhere on BF.
#3
aka Phil Jungels
It's not just the bounce....... the worst part is the side to side swing.............. just awful!
#4
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My trek 7.2 came with one and I hated it. As soon as it came apart at about 2k miles I replaced it with a solid post and really regret not doing it sooner.
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Jarrett - Why would you consider a suspension seat post? Just curious?
I ride a full suspension mountain bike when doing dirt trails, however, myself and most people I know, lock out the rear suspension when climbing or just doing paved road because it is annoying. It really makes it more difficult to pedal and there is a slight loss of power to the pedal because of the bob (which means you work harder to go forward)... are you thinking of taking your bike off road and need to compensate for ruts, rocks and roots? If you are just thinking of a more comfortable ride, I would suggest increasing tire width (just increasing from a 25 to 28 is amazingly more comfortable) and maybe a different saddle - width depends on the style of bike, how you ride and your body geometry - its all very personal for each person.
I ride a full suspension mountain bike when doing dirt trails, however, myself and most people I know, lock out the rear suspension when climbing or just doing paved road because it is annoying. It really makes it more difficult to pedal and there is a slight loss of power to the pedal because of the bob (which means you work harder to go forward)... are you thinking of taking your bike off road and need to compensate for ruts, rocks and roots? If you are just thinking of a more comfortable ride, I would suggest increasing tire width (just increasing from a 25 to 28 is amazingly more comfortable) and maybe a different saddle - width depends on the style of bike, how you ride and your body geometry - its all very personal for each person.
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I have a Thudbuster on my Fargo and it is okay. It alows me to stay seated and spin a lower gear when there is quite a bit of trail chatter, but I still get the hardtail response when I stand to hammer. The rest of my off road bikes are single speed, so I rarely sit anyway. On the road I would not use one. If you just want to get rid of the Chip seal chatter look at the Koobi saddles. They are pricey, but worked out well to tame the chipseal when on my track bike or the trail chatter when riding my Cyclocross bike on rough trails.
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I've heard horror stories of suspension posts failing catastrophically, but I don't know how true or how "catastrophically" these events were.
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The hybrid I bought last year came with a suspension seat post; it was the first time I had ever ridden with one. Didn't care for it one bit. Felt like a damn kangaroo every time I hit anything more than the slightest bump. Rode with it for about a hundred miles or so. After that, I just couldn't take it anymore. Since buying the bike took all my available money, I didn't have any extra for a new seat post, so I opened up the suspension post from the bottom, took out the spring and replaced it with a wooden dowel cut to just the right length to "lock" the seat post in place. Works like a charm and haven't had that annoying bounce since.
#9
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Spouse and I just bought three bikes for twenty bucks each from a bike rental place. I am going to fix them up and give them away. Each bike has a blown out suspension seat post.
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[QUOTE=goldfinch;15787177].... I am going to fix them up and give them away. ...QUOTE]
Off topic... but what a cool thing ot do!
Off topic... but what a cool thing ot do!
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My hybrid came with one. I adjusted it so that nearly all of the suspension was gone. If you wish to tame chipseal larger tires and/or carbon is the way to go IME.
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Seat width - I like narrow saddles due to where my bones are located.
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After some miles, the seat/seatpost started creaking and getting a little wobbly, so I was going to decided to get a replacement. I was considering doing a similar setup for the Trek, but I opted to use the stock Trek solid seatpost and bought another gel seat that's about 50% smaller than the one I had. I've got about 16 miles on this setup now and my back is a little sore, but nothing too bad. Hoping its just due to making the change and will go away with time. If not, back to the bouncy seat I guess.
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As you can see the suspension seat post is problably not the answer for back problems.
I have a bad back (I am old and heavy so go figure) and have degenerative disc disease and a cyst on my spine - my point is my back hurts and can be miserable but never while I am riding. Seems weird huh? The answer is my position on my bike. Doesn't matter the saddle... what matters is the bike fit and my position. I cannot sit too upright as that places load and stress on the spine. I am bent at a 45 degree angle(I believe that is correct - not good at geometry) or slightly forward. My reach to the hoods is perfect; elbows slightly bent, arms comfortable. I can ride with this forward placement all day and no problems with my back. In fact the stretch I get strengthens and relaxes the back at the same time. The constant bobbing of suspension would not be a good thing is that is your problem. Get a bike fit instead. Also consider getting rid of that gel seat...
I understand some men because of their stomachs aren't able to lean forward properly. This can be an issue with fit and placement on the bike and more incentive to lose some weight... I am fat but thankfully don't have a gut.
I have a bad back (I am old and heavy so go figure) and have degenerative disc disease and a cyst on my spine - my point is my back hurts and can be miserable but never while I am riding. Seems weird huh? The answer is my position on my bike. Doesn't matter the saddle... what matters is the bike fit and my position. I cannot sit too upright as that places load and stress on the spine. I am bent at a 45 degree angle(I believe that is correct - not good at geometry) or slightly forward. My reach to the hoods is perfect; elbows slightly bent, arms comfortable. I can ride with this forward placement all day and no problems with my back. In fact the stretch I get strengthens and relaxes the back at the same time. The constant bobbing of suspension would not be a good thing is that is your problem. Get a bike fit instead. Also consider getting rid of that gel seat...
I understand some men because of their stomachs aren't able to lean forward properly. This can be an issue with fit and placement on the bike and more incentive to lose some weight... I am fat but thankfully don't have a gut.
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True suspension seat posts have never been my thing. I like my contact points with the bike to have solidity.
But seat posts that have some give or flex can be fine. Bear in mind there's probably 5 ways to get some give there:
- tires (bigger, more air, less pressure = more give)
- wheels (flex in the build, notably in the spokes and rim)
- frame (build and flex, especially in the seat stays. some frames have give built in -- like Specialized zertz thingies, and trek's Domane, whereas others it's in the frame itself (like a nice steel bike))
- seat post (suspension if you insist, or a post with some give -- in the setback (like a thomson) or in the design of the post (like Specialized's new one)
- seat -- rails (carbon, Chro-mo or Titatnium)...seat shell / padding / top (these have varying amounts of flex / give
Messing with a full suspension post is a radical, imprecise way to get flex in this system, and ignores the better ways above. I'd recommend 1. tires 2. seat 3. wheels 4.seat post 5. frame. Most folks here have discovered they get what they need way before going for suspension seat post.
Finally, technique is a contributor. If you want some give, what I describe works. If you're worried about the jolting shock of a bump on your junk, learn to see it coming and lift your behind 1-2 inches off the seat when it comes. Then you can learn to bunny hop...
But seat posts that have some give or flex can be fine. Bear in mind there's probably 5 ways to get some give there:
- tires (bigger, more air, less pressure = more give)
- wheels (flex in the build, notably in the spokes and rim)
- frame (build and flex, especially in the seat stays. some frames have give built in -- like Specialized zertz thingies, and trek's Domane, whereas others it's in the frame itself (like a nice steel bike))
- seat post (suspension if you insist, or a post with some give -- in the setback (like a thomson) or in the design of the post (like Specialized's new one)
- seat -- rails (carbon, Chro-mo or Titatnium)...seat shell / padding / top (these have varying amounts of flex / give
Messing with a full suspension post is a radical, imprecise way to get flex in this system, and ignores the better ways above. I'd recommend 1. tires 2. seat 3. wheels 4.seat post 5. frame. Most folks here have discovered they get what they need way before going for suspension seat post.
Finally, technique is a contributor. If you want some give, what I describe works. If you're worried about the jolting shock of a bump on your junk, learn to see it coming and lift your behind 1-2 inches off the seat when it comes. Then you can learn to bunny hop...
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I've got a few miles on the solid post and smaller seat now and my back is doing ok. I think it will adjust.
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