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  1. #1
    Fat guy on a little bike
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    How do you know your bike is the right size?

    So.... I've been off bike for a few years and my growing gut convinced me I needed to get back on. After months of shopping I decided on a All-City Macho Man. The bike shop didn't have my size in stock (6'5" with 32" inseam) but I test drove another bike that was 61cm and it felt good so that's what they ordered for me.

    Fast forward a few weeks and I picked up my bike last night, they didn't have the peddles I wanted so I brought the bike home with no pedals and will pick those up today. Last night while putting my saddle bag on and what not I threw my leg over the bike without shoes on and my crotch barely clears the top tube. I know with shoes, it will give me a little bit more height, but is this right? I've never been truly fitted for a bike so I want to make sure it's the right size before I put any miles on it and loose the ability to return it.

    TIA,
    Jason
    Last edited by jskwarek; 07-17-13 at 09:08 AM.

  2. #2
    Just Plain Slow PhotoJoe's Avatar
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    As long as you can stop and not have a painful encounter with the top tube, I would not use that as any sort of gauge for sizing. I know we all used to do that as kids, but with different frame designs, it really means nothing anymore. I'm not a fit expert, so can't weigh in any further. I'd put some pedals on it and ride it to see how it feels. Will your LBS work with you on a fitting?
    If at first you don't succeed, Skydiving is not the sport for you!

  3. #3
    SuperGimp TrojanHorse's Avatar
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    It sounds like you may have proportionally shorter legs than average but that frame is probably correct for you. Just be careful when getting off the thing.

    Post pictures!

    And do the derailleur cables really run across the top tube? Interesting. I wonder if that keeps them cleaner.

  4. #4
    Fat guy on a little bike
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    The LBS I purchased from is a small shop, I don't think they have the ability or room to fit in their store. They were great to work with but not a high end shop with a lot of those capabilities. I've got another shop right down the street from me that I know does bicycle fitting, I may make an appointment with them to get in and get the bike correctly fitted to me.

  5. #5
    Me and the cat... Pamestique's Avatar
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    If the top bar is is too close to the crotch, the bike maybe too big however the reach (saddle to handlebars) is the more important measurement. If properly fitted on the bike you should be able to comfortable reach the brakes and shifters without straining or being too uncomfortable.

    I can see by your height and inseam that your legs are short compared to your torso... so you have to decide if this bike is for you. The shop should absolutely make an attempt to fit you. They just need a "trainer" which they can bring out onto the front floor or set up outside somewhere to make sure this is your bike. It might be better to get a smaller (58 or 59) bike and than add a longer stem to adjust your reach.

    I would not fully accept the bike unless its the one for you... be certain and be sure is better than being sorry later.
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  6. #6
    Fat guy on a little bike
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    Oh, I'm positive the bike shop will work with me to make things right, should I find that this bike is just too big. They are just further out than I want to deal with when getting fit and testing so I will ride for a few days and talk to the closer bike shop about a custom fit, once I know that the bike simply isn't too big for me. All my height is in my torso so it might work out just fine. I was just caught off guard with how tall it was yesterday when i sat on it for the first time.

  7. #7
    got the climbing bug jsigone's Avatar
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    I think the bike is FINE for you, you have a longer torso and arms to be 6'5 with that inseam. Fit the bike for the top tube not the stand over. Even at stop lights you will not unclip both feet so it won't be a problem. I wouldn't be surprised if you have a 120-130mm stem on the bike after your done fitting and getting comfy on the bike.

    As far as the cables on the top tube, is it a CX bike correct? that is normal, its routed like a hard tail MTB, this keeps all the cables away from the down tube and mud if you used it for CX races. If you have a habit of sitting on the top tube, I'd use some clear 3M bra stickers under the cables so you don't rub paint away. I know this all too well

  8. #8
    Fat guy on a little bike
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    It is indeed a CX bike. I owned a Roubaix in the past and didn't like the carbon and it was too twitchy for me so I wanted something a little more stretched out with a steel frame this go around. After much searching I landed on this bike. I won't do much CX riding on it but wanted the beefier bike, just in case I do decide to venture some paths on my future journeys.

    Good tip on the 3M tape, I've got some hanging around in the garage I might throw on there just to be safe.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Jarrett2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pamestique View Post
    If properly fitted on the bike you should be able to comfortable reach the brakes and shifters without straining or being too uncomfortable.
    I'm a newbie, but this is what I go by. Also making sure that my knee is almost locked out at the down position on the pedal. Getting bikes setup like this made a big diff for me.

  10. #10
    just pedal donalson's Avatar
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    for fit info check out this page
    http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...LCULATOR_INTRO

    and then read "The Traditions of Road Riding and Our Three Styles of Road Fit" from the link down below.

    i'm close to your size but seem to have a longer inseam and shorter torso... so I want to find a bike with a shorter top tube length
    mtbr clyd moderator

  11. #11
    Gears? CliftonGK1's Avatar
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    The two generic rules I use for a starting point (anything else is fine tuning):

    1) With your leg straight, put your heel on the pedal with the crankarms aligned to the seat tube. Adjust your saddle height so you're comfortable on the saddle with your leg in that position. When you move your foot back, you should have an appropriate bend in your knee at full pedal extension.

    2) With your hands on the brake hoods (or the grips, if it's a flat-bar) adjust your bar height/reach such that you can remove your hands from the bars without falling forward. It should take some core effort to retain your position, but not a monumental effort. In general, you'll have a comfortable balance of weight between your 5 contact points this way (hands, feet, behind). Not too much pressure on the hands and shoulders, not everything on your backside, and good extension at the bottom of your pedal stroke.

    A full fitting goes into WAY more than just these two things, but if you're just getting back into it this is a quick way to get comfortable without spending the money on a fit-session which will be invalid after only a few months when you lose a few pounds.
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  12. #12
    Fat guy on a little bike
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    Quote Originally Posted by CliftonGK1 View Post
    The two generic rules I use for a starting point (anything else is fine tuning):

    1) With your leg straight, put your heel on the pedal with the crankarms aligned to the seat tube. Adjust your saddle height so you're comfortable on the saddle with your leg in that position. When you move your foot back, you should have an appropriate bend in your knee at full pedal extension.

    2) With your hands on the brake hoods (or the grips, if it's a flat-bar) adjust your bar height/reach such that you can remove your hands from the bars without falling forward. It should take some core effort to retain your position, but not a monumental effort. In general, you'll have a comfortable balance of weight between your 5 contact points this way (hands, feet, behind). Not too much pressure on the hands and shoulders, not everything on your backside, and good extension at the bottom of your pedal stroke.

    A full fitting goes into WAY more than just these two things, but if you're just getting back into it this is a quick way to get comfortable without spending the money on a fit-session which will be invalid after only a few months when you lose a few pounds.
    Thanks for this. I knew about step 1 but never thought about step 2. I'd hate to have to buy a new stem for this new bike but we'll see how it goes.

    Thanks again,
    Jason

  13. #13
    Me and the cat... Pamestique's Avatar
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    Also Jason... don't be surprised after you have been riding awhile and your fitness increases and you drop weight, that you have to revisit the bike fit issue. I am pretty comfortable on my current bike but it wa a long process of adjustments along the way to get there.
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  14. #14
    Fat guy on a little bike
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pamestique View Post
    Also Jason... don't be surprised after you have been riding awhile and your fitness increases and you drop weight, that you have to revisit the bike fit issue. I am pretty comfortable on my current bike but it wa a long process of adjustments along the way to get there.
    I'll gladly welcome adjustments due to miles in the saddle and weight loss.

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