Standing Clyde
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Buffalo New York
Posts: 2,470
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
so Im not quite a clyde at 180 but ill chime in.
small hills or low grades Ill remain seated and just crank, trying to keep my cadence even by downshifting.
medium hills Ill stand and power through, rock side to side if need be.
Large hills I start seated downshifting as needed, eventually Ill standup and upshift to a comfortable feel, then after maybe 20-30 seconds or so sit back down and work downward through the gears again. repeat as needed.
small hills or low grades Ill remain seated and just crank, trying to keep my cadence even by downshifting.
medium hills Ill stand and power through, rock side to side if need be.
Large hills I start seated downshifting as needed, eventually Ill standup and upshift to a comfortable feel, then after maybe 20-30 seconds or so sit back down and work downward through the gears again. repeat as needed.
__________________
2010 Kestrel RT900SL, 800k carbon, chorus/record, speedplay, zonda
2000 litespeed Unicoi Ti, XTR,XT, Campy crank, time atac, carbon forks
2010 Kestrel RT900SL, 800k carbon, chorus/record, speedplay, zonda
2000 litespeed Unicoi Ti, XTR,XT, Campy crank, time atac, carbon forks
#27
SuperGimp
#28
Senior Member
It is entirely likely that your drive train needs adjusting. Is the chain jumping off the front chainrings or off the back cassette cogs? If the rear shift cable is too loose shifts to a smaller cog tend to be easier and shifts to a bigger one tend to be harder, take longer or make a huge racket in the process. You're also more likely to pull the chain off the cog it's on.
It's also possible that it's just a "feature" of low end components but I'd check the set up first before making that assumption.
It's also possible that it's just a "feature" of low end components but I'd check the set up first before making that assumption.
#29
Lover of Old Chrome Moly
Join Date: May 2011
Location: NW Minnesota
Posts: 2,949
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 143 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 23 Times
in
17 Posts
I find myself standing more often for hills, sprints or even just to let a little blood back in the tuccus. I used to hate standing but with practice I am now able to stand while pedaling hard for a few minutes at a time. +1 on shifting up a gear or two as you stand, it keeps the perceived exertion about the same. It is also important to never let your knees lock out at the bottom of the stroke, think elliptical trainer not stair stepper. I throw a few standing sprints into my LSD rides just to break up the monotony and to give my backside a break from the saddle. They are great quad developers and you will get sore if you push it hard, but it is a good soreness.
I'm sure that standing places extra stress on the pedal spindles, crankset and BB but I have midgrade components including pedals with cro-mo spindles and have never had a problem, even when I was significantly heavier. Does the BB wear out faster, maybe, maybe not, but I've gotten 5,000+ miles out of a UN54 that I replaced as soon as I noticed a grind. I had an Octalink BB in my previous road bike and put 2,000+ on it and it was used when I got it (it was still going strong when I traded up). I've never had one actually fail.
I'm sure that standing places extra stress on the pedal spindles, crankset and BB but I have midgrade components including pedals with cro-mo spindles and have never had a problem, even when I was significantly heavier. Does the BB wear out faster, maybe, maybe not, but I've gotten 5,000+ miles out of a UN54 that I replaced as soon as I noticed a grind. I had an Octalink BB in my previous road bike and put 2,000+ on it and it was used when I got it (it was still going strong when I traded up). I've never had one actually fail.
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Potashville
Posts: 1,079
Bikes: Reynolds 531P road bike, Rocky Mountain Metropolis, Rocky Mountain Sherpa 10, Look 566
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
If you're feeling off-balance standing, chances are you're too far forward over the handlebars. Keep your hips above a point roughly 10" in front of the seat tube and keep them low - you don't want to be too high up either. Think of the old RoadRunner cartoons for your leg movement, circling around the hip joint, using hip muscles to bring the leg over the top of the pedal stroke. Pulling up on the handlebar on the same side that a leg is pressing down on adds to the power - like putting a foot on the lawn mower to pull the starter cord.
#31
Senior Member
If you're feeling off-balance standing, chances are you're too far forward over the handlebars. Keep your hips above a point roughly 10" in front of the seat tube and keep them low - you don't want to be too high up either. Think of the old RoadRunner cartoons for your leg movement, circling around the hip joint, using hip muscles to bring the leg over the top of the pedal stroke. Pulling up on the handlebar on the same side that a leg is pressing down on adds to the power - like putting a foot on the lawn mower to pull the starter cord.
You can start by barely standing on flatter surfaces and working your way up. Pull on the bars a little while pedaling in a harder gear and sliding back a little on the seat. You should feel yourself come up and have less pressure on the seat. It helps with acceleration without rising totally up and rocking side to side and works a lot of the same muscles as standing up.
#32
Senior Member
I'm now 265, but was 285...
I built a new LHT up to replace my Fuji tourer. Torquing up would pull the rear axle forward in the horizontal drop outs and the tire would hit the chain stay. The bike would stop dead. This would happen w/o fail if I came out of the saddle. I tried a number of skewers, consulting every LBS I could find.
I love being able to stand up on the pedals especially starting from a dead stop.
I had breaking limitations. A builder I consulted said I was spreading the front forks, so a booster was in order... Gotta say loving the new LHT. The disc brakes are marvelous! Rear wheel stays put as does the handlebars! It's even lighter then the Fuji (well the frame is)...
I built a new LHT up to replace my Fuji tourer. Torquing up would pull the rear axle forward in the horizontal drop outs and the tire would hit the chain stay. The bike would stop dead. This would happen w/o fail if I came out of the saddle. I tried a number of skewers, consulting every LBS I could find.
I love being able to stand up on the pedals especially starting from a dead stop.
I had breaking limitations. A builder I consulted said I was spreading the front forks, so a booster was in order... Gotta say loving the new LHT. The disc brakes are marvelous! Rear wheel stays put as does the handlebars! It's even lighter then the Fuji (well the frame is)...
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cape Cod, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,318
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
For me, when I started back riding after a long layoff, standing required building my confidence. Most people can benefit from standing on some climbs.
Some kind of foot retention system also helps build confidence. Even cages with loose straps help in this regard. One of the worst injuries that I ever had on a bike was about 40 years ago, when my left foot slipped off a platform pedal while standing, opening a gash on my calf. I switched to cages and straps then, and have never ridden a road bike without clips and straps (and now clipless) since.
Of course, being a recovering Clyde, it's easy for me now.
Some kind of foot retention system also helps build confidence. Even cages with loose straps help in this regard. One of the worst injuries that I ever had on a bike was about 40 years ago, when my left foot slipped off a platform pedal while standing, opening a gash on my calf. I switched to cages and straps then, and have never ridden a road bike without clips and straps (and now clipless) since.
Of course, being a recovering Clyde, it's easy for me now.
#34
That guy from the Chi
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,000
Bikes: 88 Trek 800 - gone to new cheeks; '14 Trek 1.2 - aka The X1 Advanced; '13 Trek 3500 Disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
I only stand to climb. Funny thing is that sitting feels weird unless I am tired. But I climb like I sprint....go as hard as I can to get momentum and back off to a point depending on the length of the climb/sprint. On a recent trip it was in a very hilly area with a lot of steep grades, I hit every one hard with the mindset of I am going to flog my legs like they owed me money.
It was hard work but fun!
It was hard work but fun!
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacifica, California
Posts: 87
Bikes: 1983 Schwinn Super Sport
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Well I started this thread to get some information and I certainly have. I see that greater clydes experience the same problems I have with learning how to stand and climb and that lesser clydes find it easier. Another good reason to drop 10 pounds! Also, not to worry so much about breaking the bike.
Until this month I never climbed standing at all, I just couldn't do it. Now I'm getting the hang of it. One thing that may have helped is that I've been doing some running and that develops some of the same muscles.
Another thing is that I've found a balance point that works for me. It feels very forward but since I'm pedaling up hill, I'm probably just over the bottom bracket.
The third thing I've found is that I have to consciously try to pedal through the entire circle, i.e. I push the pedals through the dead spot at the top and bottom. Otherwise, because of my weight I get a very jerky pedaling motion.
That's my input, from someone with essentially no experience but who is enjoying learning the skill.
.
Until this month I never climbed standing at all, I just couldn't do it. Now I'm getting the hang of it. One thing that may have helped is that I've been doing some running and that develops some of the same muscles.
Another thing is that I've found a balance point that works for me. It feels very forward but since I'm pedaling up hill, I'm probably just over the bottom bracket.
The third thing I've found is that I have to consciously try to pedal through the entire circle, i.e. I push the pedals through the dead spot at the top and bottom. Otherwise, because of my weight I get a very jerky pedaling motion.
That's my input, from someone with essentially no experience but who is enjoying learning the skill.
.
#36
Keepin it Wheel
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,245
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,432 Times
in
2,539 Posts
The thing about climbing is that it's like turbo on a car. It's not more efficient, it helps you move faster by allowing you to burn a lot more fuel faster. Standing will elevate your heart rate like nobody's business. Note also that standing uses a lot more upper body (try riding standing with a cracked rib, and you will quickly learn that you are not just pushing with your legs, you are also pulling 'upwards' with your arms on the handlebars, with the net effect that you can push down harder with your legs), so if you're not used to those muscles, you will tire especially fast.
You could consider standing to be an opportunity to get some upper-body exercises into your cycling workout. And apart from that it's also good to get circulation going when your butt gets numb.
You could consider standing to be an opportunity to get some upper-body exercises into your cycling workout. And apart from that it's also good to get circulation going when your butt gets numb.