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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

My spokes broke! Need new rims.

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Old 09-13-13, 07:08 PM
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My spokes broke! Need new rims.

Hi guys

Actually, my spokes broke a long time ago but I never bothered to do anything about it. The've broke before and I had to order my bladed spokes online and then bring it and my bike to the bike shop to get it installed. Not cheap. It broke again so I'm not too excited about going about this spoke replacing thing again.

Well since I've been here I realise that there are lots of other heavy riders like me and it seems that some of the members here have quite a bit of knowledge on whats good and whats not for a clyde.

I'm about 250lbs, I ride a scott voltage mtb which weight limit is only 242lbs but so far I haven't had any issues except for the saddles shifting and this wheel/rim issue. I fixed the saddle by replacing it with a brooks and it's fantastic.

The rims I am currently using is a Mavic Crossride.

Initially I thought of buying a Trek since it appears that it has a much higher weight limit than what I currently own, then I figured since my current bike is working fine why not stick with it and instead get a better wheelset. So here I am, please help me out.

I need some strong rims! And if you have tire suggestions I'm open to suggestions too. Currently using maxxis mobster.

edit: I just cycle around the streets though I use an offroad bike. There are quite a few bumps here and there so i am comfortable using an offroad bike as it allows me to be versatile.

Last edited by sfynzy; 09-13-13 at 09:38 PM.
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Old 09-13-13, 09:17 PM
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You might state what kind of riding you do-
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Old 09-13-13, 09:27 PM
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I just replaced my stock rear wheel with this https://www.amazon.com/Weinmann-ZAC19...ike+tire+zac19 using 12ga spokes. So far it has been holding up nicely. It also comes in a 26" version as well.
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Old 09-13-13, 09:28 PM
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I think with 26" wheels and the crossride you should be fine. As mentioned above it could depend on your riding style. There are custom built wheels, but if I were you I'd evaluate you riding style. I'd also go to the bike shop and have them put in the new spoke and tension all the spokes.

I've been fortunate that I've never broke a spoke, but I usually just ride the roads or hard pack trails with no jumps. I don't think buying a bike with a higher weight limit will help you with tires.
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Old 09-13-13, 11:18 PM
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The broken spokes have nothing to do with your frame's weight limit and everything to do with poor riding habits *or* a bad build. I've never broken a spoke riding on skinny little roadie wheels and that included a stint at 245#.

Wheels that are true with spoke tensions all over the place are more likely to break a spoke than wheels that are true with even tensions. When you get the spokes fixed ask the shop to evenly tension the wheels for you, rather than just sticking the new spoke in and truing the wheel.
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Old 09-13-13, 11:27 PM
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Get some double wall wheels built with fat spokes.

Since it took a week to get my spokes replaces and wheels "retrue-ed" I had a second wheel built so I didn't have to wait to get back on the road.

bah. that was stupid.

I went to double wall wheels with really big fat spokes. The kind of spokes they have to drill out the hubs to make them fit.

I never have wheel issues. It's worth it to find a guy that will build those wheels for you.
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Old 09-13-13, 11:53 PM
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For what it's worth, I have 2 sets of the following wheels that I picked up at the LBS: https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...62_-1___202477

One set for commuting, one set for the trail. While I've knocked em around quite a bit on the trail, they've been surprisingly durable given the price. Hold up to all I put them through, including popping curbs and such on my commuter and hitting all kinds of obstacles in the woods. The only time they've had to be trued was when I landed angled a little to one side and knocked the rear out of lateral true a noticeable amount. Oh, I weigh 225.
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Old 09-14-13, 07:08 AM
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It may have something to do with your spoke count. I wouldn't ride anything less than 32h wheels if I were you.
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Old 09-14-13, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by TrojanHorse
The broken spokes have nothing to do with your frame's weight limit and everything to do with poor riding habits *or* a bad build. I've never broken a spoke riding on skinny little roadie wheels and that included a stint at 245#.

Wheels that are true with spoke tensions all over the place are more likely to break a spoke than wheels that are true with even tensions. When you get the spokes fixed ask the shop to evenly tension the wheels for you, rather than just sticking the new spoke in and truing the wheel.
+1 to this!
I've built almost all my own wheels over the years that I raced and did loaded touring on. I'm now riding 24 on the rear and 18 on the front, I weigh 220-225, and haven't had a problem, altho the 2k miles I have on them are on fairly immaculate roads with occasional dirt sections. No problems. I'm convinced it's first, even tension all around and second, riding technique. Know when to get your arse off the saddle.

I've never used a spoke tension gauge and have always plucked them to hear how they sound. Go around the wheel and pluck them, they should all be fairly close musically. On the rear wheel, the drive side, or the side with the freewheel, will have a higher pitch than the other non-drive side because they are normally tensioned higher. But all on one side should be fairly close. On the front they should all be about the same.

Also, straightening a bent rim with spoke tensioning is only a band-aid solution till you can replace the rim. They'll eventually fail, or pull thru the rim.

C.
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Old 09-16-13, 10:04 AM
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Big fan of the Mavic Pros 36 spoke. Ridden them for about 1100 miles now after putting 900 on the rims that that came with the bike. Started at 285 on the originals, and have gone from 250ish to 215ish on the new rims.
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Old 09-16-13, 11:11 AM
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I personally would just get a spoke tool and learn to true the wheel yourself. I've had broken spokes before, but it's always been from untrue wheels. The LBS quoted me a price higher than the price of the wheel brand new. Since then I've always done my own wheels and haven't had a broken spoke since.

Some people/websites make it seem as if wheel truing is some kind of exotic artform. It isn't. You can true wheels directly on your bike and it only takes a few minutes. Of course a master bike technician might be able to do it better than you, but I honestly couldn't tell the difference.
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Old 09-16-13, 01:10 PM
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visit the LBS occasionally for a wheel-tuning.
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Old 09-16-13, 07:00 PM
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thank u for the input guys..
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Old 09-20-13, 10:06 PM
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SFYNZY - you are a light weight

I got frustrated with the cost at the LBSs; and decided to learn to build my own wheels. It is not difficult, lots of advice out there; some of it is even good advice

For a ISO559 (26") MTB wheel build: a 40H Wheelmaster, Wheelsmith DH13 spokes and Velocity Aeroheat rim will run $150 in parts; and result in a virtually indestructible wheel if built correctly - easily capable of supporting a rider of twice your mass.
https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-A...I3V32ES0KQTPPN
https://www.amazon.com/Velocity-Aeroh...I14RTGTL7D7HQR
https://www.ebay.com/itm/WHEELSMITH-D...item43ba9594f5
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Old 09-21-13, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ChuckD6421

I've never used a spoke tension gauge and have always plucked them to hear how they sound. Go around the wheel and pluck them, they should all be fairly close musically. On the rear wheel, the drive side, or the side with the freewheel, will have a higher pitch than the other non-drive side because they are normally tensioned higher. But all on one side should be fairly close. On the front they should all be about the same.


C.
As a 30 year guitar player, I love this!!!! Hahahaha.... Use an electronic tuner and you could measure the tension sonically.

' I have 28 spokes per wheel on my HED Ardennes+... I'm now 205#.
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Old 09-21-13, 09:46 AM
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Those of you who build you own wheels, are you self taught or did someone show you how? I am thinking of taking a class but the class is inconvenient. Then again, mechanics do not come naturally to me. The whole "which way to turn the spoke" thing is difficult for me.
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Old 09-21-13, 10:04 AM
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Self-taught. Long before there was an internet I learned about Jobst Brandt and got his book for starters. It's pretty technical so maybe not a starter's book, but you get just about all there is to know about the building and mechanics of bicycle wheels.

I don't know if mechanics comes naturally to me or not, it certainly wasn't passed down from my father. But I've always had an intense interest in figuring out how things work. I think mechanical ability is more about one's willinginess to focus and sustain it on this 'how things work' question. Are you that kind of person? Then get some reading done, watch the Youtube machine, ask lots of questions and get to work. I find it pretty relaxing and easy.

If you're not inclined to that kind of thing, might be best to reassess your motives and give it to someone who is and be done with it.

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Old 09-21-13, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by sfynzy
I need some strong rims!
Why? Have you managed to break the rims, too? The Crossride is actually a decent, if inexpensive, wheelset. At 250lbs, you're not that heavy. Sounds to me like you just need to have a competent wheel builder give your wheels a thorough check-out. I'd replace the broken spoke and have the tension of every spoke checked and adjusted with a tension meter.

You may also need to realize that wheels are not maintenance-free components, especially if you're a Clydesdale. You need to check the trueness and spoke tension regularly if you want to avoid breaking spokes.
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Old 09-23-13, 09:22 AM
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hmm i guess the rims itself arent broke, i still use the bike to cycle. im kind of planning on turning my bike into an ebike so im expective to add more weight to it. i know i should lose weight and thats what i intend to do as well.
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Old 09-23-13, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by goldfinch
Those of you who build you own wheels, are you self taught or did someone show you how? I am thinking of taking a class but the class is inconvenient. Then again, mechanics do not come naturally to me. The whole "which way to turn the spoke" thing is difficult for me.
Self taught; mostly based on Sheldon's website, but not completely. I also built my own truing stand, with a dial indicator.
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Old 09-23-13, 01:04 PM
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32 spokes 26" wheel, 36 spoke 700c wheel .. , 28 spokes 16" wheel.

My Bike Friday's 20" wheels at 32 spoke are plenty strong.
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Old 09-23-13, 05:08 PM
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I'm 275lbs and I often ride a strait-handled 2005 Felt SR-81 road bike with a fairly lightweight 7005 frame and carbon fiber forks. The bike feels crazy light compared to my HT and I wouldn't really want to go lighter.I replaced the stock rims a few years ago after I tacoed my front rim by riding it off a 1 foot cement drop while drunk. Moral of the Story, if you're gonna BUI, don't do it on a nice "weight-weenie" road bike. Do it on a decent mountain bike that can survive crashes.Anyway, when my LBS ordered a new rim, they got me a slightly heavier but more robust rim than the stock ones the bike came with.I have hit potholes, rocks, and other road debris with heavy duty reinforced 25mm touring tires inflated to 130psi, and never broke a spoke. I periodically examine the rims for wobble and gently wiggle the spokes. Clydesdale riders, especially when riding road rims, will likely need to get their rims trued more often than 'weenies. But if you have a competant bike mechanic and keep your rims true, breakage is unlikely. If you're breaking a ton of spokes, take a close look at the terrain you are riding.As far as mountain bikes go, on a quality rim this should never happen. I'm still riding my original Kona FireMountain HT 26er rims, never had them trued, and I've ridden some pretty rough terrain on it. My chain on the other hand, is 110% worn according to the bike mechanic. Bent derallure hangar, etc. Rather than fix it up, I'm keeping it as a "beater" until I can save up for a 29er, but the original stock wheels are still kicking.
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Old 09-23-13, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by goldfinch
Those of you who build you own wheels, are you self taught or did someone show you how? I am thinking of taking a class but the class is inconvenient. Then again, mechanics do not come naturally to me. The whole "which way to turn the spoke" thing is difficult for me.
I learned the basics from Sheldon.
I've increased my knowledge by paying attention to mrrabbit & FBinNY in the Mechanics Forum. They'll give some theory if you pay attention.
It took me 3 wheels before things "clicked" enough that I could sit down with the loose parts and lace a wheel without referring to some reference.
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