Spec. Allez Elite v. Cannondale CAAD 10 (finally time to move up to a road bike)
#26
just pedal
#27
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Sooo...what's the budget?
I ask because you're big enough that anything off-the-shelf will be hard to fit, and things like stem length and saddle setback do some very odd things to bike handling.
I don't subscribe to the school that says you should go for slow handling for a first road bike. Depends what kind of guy you are. I wanted my first car to handle really well even though I was a new driver.
At your size, look at Somas as well. There is a model with a double TT you can get in a 64, I believe.
But, if you have the budget, I'd go for the KHS or full custom. I have a neighbor who has a Zinn. It's very nice, and, since he's a tiny 6'5, he let me try it. Rode very nicely. Zinn makes the KHS. Stable, but plenty quick.
If you can afford custom, you could easily get a Gunnar relatively cheaply, and it would fit. Or you can go nuts and get something even more special. Off the top of my head, I've seen some very big Sevens that looked very nice.
Finally, as a first step, get a professional fit. That will give you a ball park to target in terms of length of top tube. It'll help you figure out whether a 63 or a 64 is big enough.
I ask because you're big enough that anything off-the-shelf will be hard to fit, and things like stem length and saddle setback do some very odd things to bike handling.
I don't subscribe to the school that says you should go for slow handling for a first road bike. Depends what kind of guy you are. I wanted my first car to handle really well even though I was a new driver.
At your size, look at Somas as well. There is a model with a double TT you can get in a 64, I believe.
But, if you have the budget, I'd go for the KHS or full custom. I have a neighbor who has a Zinn. It's very nice, and, since he's a tiny 6'5, he let me try it. Rode very nicely. Zinn makes the KHS. Stable, but plenty quick.
If you can afford custom, you could easily get a Gunnar relatively cheaply, and it would fit. Or you can go nuts and get something even more special. Off the top of my head, I've seen some very big Sevens that looked very nice.
Finally, as a first step, get a professional fit. That will give you a ball park to target in terms of length of top tube. It'll help you figure out whether a 63 or a 64 is big enough.
As for the fit, I've done it. Twice. Once at a shop in Dallas where I used to live, and again in Utah where I live now in order to help me find a shop I can trust. The fitting process is crucial. It's how I got the current bike (the Hardrock) to work to begin with. We replaced the seat post, bars, stem, cranks, and pedals, all to make it fit as close to properly as possible. It's not perfect, but it's pretty good.
Last edited by WEK; 10-01-13 at 03:55 PM.
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Another interesting question...What determines whether I can put after market disc brakes on a bike? Is that even possible, or do most frames without stock disc brakes not have room for them to be added? (I'm thinking of the Secteur Sport, specifically, since none of the Secteur models with disc brakes come in my size.)
#29
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I've never ridden the Allez or Secteur, or the Caad 10, for that matter, but I did ride a Caad 9. If the Caad 10 is anything like the 9, it will be a stiff ride. The bike is basically a race bike, but in aluminum. It's fast and responsive, but you really do feel it. I would not want to ride a Caad for more than about 25-30 miles.
On the plus side, as I mentioned, it's fast and responsive. It's a great, affordable racing bike.
I rode a Synapse and the geometry is a little more relaxed. While it's still racy, it's more comfortable. I really liked the Synapse. I thought it offered all the positives of the Caad but in a softer package.
On the plus side, as I mentioned, it's fast and responsive. It's a great, affordable racing bike.
I rode a Synapse and the geometry is a little more relaxed. While it's still racy, it's more comfortable. I really liked the Synapse. I thought it offered all the positives of the Caad but in a softer package.
#30
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Last time I checked most Soma frames were around $400. The cost of a complete build will largely depend on what components you pick. A custom build will end up costing more than a complete bike, though.
Another interesting question...What determines whether I can put after market disc brakes on a bike? Is that even possible, or do most frames without stock disc brakes not have room for them to be added? (I'm thinking of the Secteur Sport, specifically, since none of the Secteur models with disc brakes come in my size.)
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okay, so what does the pro fit dictate on key dimensions? Top tube, saddle tip to bars?
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I know the Dallas shop still has the measurements in its records, though, because they accessed them at one point later when I needed something. I'll contact them and get a hold of the figures.
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I've never ridden the Allez or Secteur, or the Caad 10, for that matter, but I did ride a Caad 9. If the Caad 10 is anything like the 9, it will be a stiff ride. The bike is basically a race bike, but in aluminum. It's fast and responsive, but you really do feel it. I would not want to ride a Caad for more than about 25-30 miles.
On the plus side, as I mentioned, it's fast and responsive. It's a great, affordable racing bike.
I rode a Synapse and the geometry is a little more relaxed. While it's still racy, it's more comfortable. I really liked the Synapse. I thought it offered all the positives of the Caad but in a softer package.
On the plus side, as I mentioned, it's fast and responsive. It's a great, affordable racing bike.
I rode a Synapse and the geometry is a little more relaxed. While it's still racy, it's more comfortable. I really liked the Synapse. I thought it offered all the positives of the Caad but in a softer package.
#34
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For me, I prefer a bike that's still racy, but slightly more relaxed, which is where the Synapse comes in. You won't be leaned over as far as on a Caad, but it is still very much a race-inspired geometry; it is built to be speedy and more comfortable than the Caad. I absolutely loved the Synapse when I rode it but decided to go with a carbon bike. I chose a Schwinn Paramount 7, which priced about the same as the Synapse. I really like the bike and it's been great on longer rides; the largest downside is that the wheels just plain SUCK.
I would definitely not count out Scott or Fuji. If you haven't looked into their bikes, I highly suggest doing so. Scott and Fuji make some very good roadies.
#35
just pedal
I hesitate to even ask what a Soma would cost once I get it all built. Looks like a quality piece, but could be a big hit on the wallet.
Another interesting question...What determines whether I can put after market disc brakes on a bike? Is that even possible, or do most frames without stock disc brakes not have room for them to be added? (I'm thinking of the Secteur Sport, specifically, since none of the Secteur models with disc brakes come in my size.)
Another interesting question...What determines whether I can put after market disc brakes on a bike? Is that even possible, or do most frames without stock disc brakes not have room for them to be added? (I'm thinking of the Secteur Sport, specifically, since none of the Secteur models with disc brakes come in my size.)
as for the Soma ES and budget... you will prob spend a little bit more... but if it is the difference between a bike that fits and one that sorta fits I'd say the extra would be well spent
you can get the 66cm frame and matching fork at bikemania.biz for $508.88 shipped to my door ;-)
in fact out of curiosity I'm going to goto universalcycles and build up one with new parts out of curiosity lol... this is going to be pretty low rent stuff but nothing I wouldn't put on a bike I would ride myself... I'll built it around 9 speed as that's what I know (and price) using barcon sifters... most all of these parts can be had cheaper if you shop around a little online
Bar Tape: generic $15
Bottom Bracket: tiagra BB $17
Brakes: tektro r539 $60
Brake levers: tektro r340 $23
Cables: est with housing $25
Cassette: tiagra 12-25 $35
Chain: KMC x9.93 $15
Crankset: sora triple hallowtec II $107
Derlr (Front): claris triple $20
Derlr (Rear): claris mid cage $28
Fork: Soma ES
Frame: Soma ES $508.88
Handlebar: FSA omega compact 44cm $38
Headset: cane creek 10 series $36
Headset Spacer: FSA headset spacer kit $18
Pedals: wellgo cage pedals $13
Seat: random $50 saddle that fits you $50
Seatpost: kalloy uno $23
Shifters: dura-ace bar end shifters $100
Stem: whatever fits about $25 $25
Tire: panaracer pasela 32c x2 $42
Tubes: x2 $10
water bottle cages: alloy cage x2 $4
add a wheelset from velomine (velocity deepv 36h on 105 hubs) $235
all said comes out to right at $1447.88... after a 15% cupon code at universal it comes out to $1378.14... including a wheelset that should be pretty bomb proof after you get your LBS to check tension and stuff... obviously a little more $$$ goes a long way... and you'll have to spend a bit to have it built if you can't do that yourself... if you can find a LBS that is decent talk with them, these prices are for the most part are very similar to what your LBS would be selling parts for (except maybe the frameset and wheelset), they should be able to do a comparable build for a similar price and many shops have some good quality used parts sitting in the back room somewhere that could be used... if you can build your own then you could easily find a lot of these parts cheaper (or higher end for the same $$$) just by shopping around a little...
but none of this matters until you know what frame is going to work for you ;-) lol
#36
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to have discs on the FRAME requires that the manufacture put a disc option... up front that can be added after the fact but is a somewhat costly option... you'll need to replace the fork and add the disc brake and a compatible disc front wheel... being that the front wheel does the majority of the work when stopping it's not a bad way to go... I ran my MTB like this for years because of the way the rear disc mount worked on my MTB... but unless you are doing wet riding there isn't much need IMHO for one for typical road riding...
as for the Soma ES and budget... you will prob spend a little bit more... but if it is the difference between a bike that fits and one that sorta fits I'd say the extra would be well spent
you can get the 66cm frame and matching fork at bikemania.biz for $508.88 shipped to my door ;-)
in fact out of curiosity I'm going to goto universalcycles and build up one with new parts out of curiosity lol... this is going to be pretty low rent stuff but nothing I wouldn't put on a bike I would ride myself... I'll built it around 9 speed as that's what I know (and price) using barcon sifters... most all of these parts can be had cheaper if you shop around a little online
Bar Tape: generic $15
Bottom Bracket: tiagra BB $17
Brakes: tektro r539 $60
Brake levers: tektro r340 $23
Cables: est with housing $25
Cassette: tiagra 12-25 $35
Chain: KMC x9.93 $15
Crankset: sora triple hallowtec II $107
Derlr (Front): claris triple $20
Derlr (Rear): claris mid cage $28
Fork: Soma ES
Frame: Soma ES $508.88
Handlebar: FSA omega compact 44cm $38
Headset: cane creek 10 series $36
Headset Spacer: FSA headset spacer kit $18
Pedals: wellgo cage pedals $13
Seat: random $50 saddle that fits you $50
Seatpost: kalloy uno $23
Shifters: dura-ace bar end shifters $100
Stem: whatever fits about $25 $25
Tire: panaracer pasela 32c x2 $42
Tubes: x2 $10
water bottle cages: alloy cage x2 $4
add a wheelset from velomine (velocity deepv 36h on 105 hubs) $235
all said comes out to right at $1447.88... after a 15% cupon code at universal it comes out to $1378.14... including a wheelset that should be pretty bomb proof after you get your LBS to check tension and stuff... obviously a little more $$$ goes a long way... and you'll have to spend a bit to have it built if you can't do that yourself... if you can find a LBS that is decent talk with them, these prices are for the most part are very similar to what your LBS would be selling parts for (except maybe the frameset and wheelset), they should be able to do a comparable build for a similar price and many shops have some good quality used parts sitting in the back room somewhere that could be used... if you can build your own then you could easily find a lot of these parts cheaper (or higher end for the same $$$) just by shopping around a little...
but none of this matters until you know what frame is going to work for you ;-) lol
as for the Soma ES and budget... you will prob spend a little bit more... but if it is the difference between a bike that fits and one that sorta fits I'd say the extra would be well spent
you can get the 66cm frame and matching fork at bikemania.biz for $508.88 shipped to my door ;-)
in fact out of curiosity I'm going to goto universalcycles and build up one with new parts out of curiosity lol... this is going to be pretty low rent stuff but nothing I wouldn't put on a bike I would ride myself... I'll built it around 9 speed as that's what I know (and price) using barcon sifters... most all of these parts can be had cheaper if you shop around a little online
Bar Tape: generic $15
Bottom Bracket: tiagra BB $17
Brakes: tektro r539 $60
Brake levers: tektro r340 $23
Cables: est with housing $25
Cassette: tiagra 12-25 $35
Chain: KMC x9.93 $15
Crankset: sora triple hallowtec II $107
Derlr (Front): claris triple $20
Derlr (Rear): claris mid cage $28
Fork: Soma ES
Frame: Soma ES $508.88
Handlebar: FSA omega compact 44cm $38
Headset: cane creek 10 series $36
Headset Spacer: FSA headset spacer kit $18
Pedals: wellgo cage pedals $13
Seat: random $50 saddle that fits you $50
Seatpost: kalloy uno $23
Shifters: dura-ace bar end shifters $100
Stem: whatever fits about $25 $25
Tire: panaracer pasela 32c x2 $42
Tubes: x2 $10
water bottle cages: alloy cage x2 $4
add a wheelset from velomine (velocity deepv 36h on 105 hubs) $235
all said comes out to right at $1447.88... after a 15% cupon code at universal it comes out to $1378.14... including a wheelset that should be pretty bomb proof after you get your LBS to check tension and stuff... obviously a little more $$$ goes a long way... and you'll have to spend a bit to have it built if you can't do that yourself... if you can find a LBS that is decent talk with them, these prices are for the most part are very similar to what your LBS would be selling parts for (except maybe the frameset and wheelset), they should be able to do a comparable build for a similar price and many shops have some good quality used parts sitting in the back room somewhere that could be used... if you can build your own then you could easily find a lot of these parts cheaper (or higher end for the same $$$) just by shopping around a little...
but none of this matters until you know what frame is going to work for you ;-) lol
#37
just pedal
I'm happy to help... it's been raining non stop for the last few days so not like I could be riding anyway ;-)
talk to your LBS... the markup on most of these parts at a LBS is a lot higher on ala cart stuff/accessories then on complete bikes... this still isn't to say that an off the rack bike won't fit you better... just know that there are other options without completely blowing your budget
talk to your LBS... the markup on most of these parts at a LBS is a lot higher on ala cart stuff/accessories then on complete bikes... this still isn't to say that an off the rack bike won't fit you better... just know that there are other options without completely blowing your budget
#39
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As no one will pony up an answer I'll take a poke. I've ridden all 3. I'd go with the Secteur. I was very impressed with the ride on the Secteur. It's more relaxed than the CAAD or the Allez. The Secteur will be less twitchy and more of an upright ride. It should be more comfortable for a guy you're size. I think you would fit on the Secteur better than the other 2.
I did not like the CAAD at all. It was a harsh stiff beast. It would respond instantly to power or steering inputs. Great if you're racing. But for you're stated purpose I'd say nay. It's a great bike but porbably not for you.
The Allez was smoother than the CAAD. Less sensative to inputs, but quick to respond. It was very plesant to ride for a racing oriented bike. I just think you would feel cramped on one. My opinion only.
So that leaves Secteur. It will take larger tires. It also has stouter wheels stock. You may be able to ride them without spending for wheels. Ask the bike shop you get it from. There input will help. I think it's you're best bet in my opinion.
Now I'll suggest you get out there and ride all 3. Make up you're own mind. We can suggest, but ultimatly it's you're butt ya gotta please. If you can't find you're size. Try one of each in the largest size you can to get a feel for them. Then order the biggest one you can.
Good luck in you're search. And post up pictures of you're new ride when you get it.
Mark Shuman
I did not like the CAAD at all. It was a harsh stiff beast. It would respond instantly to power or steering inputs. Great if you're racing. But for you're stated purpose I'd say nay. It's a great bike but porbably not for you.
The Allez was smoother than the CAAD. Less sensative to inputs, but quick to respond. It was very plesant to ride for a racing oriented bike. I just think you would feel cramped on one. My opinion only.
So that leaves Secteur. It will take larger tires. It also has stouter wheels stock. You may be able to ride them without spending for wheels. Ask the bike shop you get it from. There input will help. I think it's you're best bet in my opinion.
Now I'll suggest you get out there and ride all 3. Make up you're own mind. We can suggest, but ultimatly it's you're butt ya gotta please. If you can't find you're size. Try one of each in the largest size you can to get a feel for them. Then order the biggest one you can.
Good luck in you're search. And post up pictures of you're new ride when you get it.
Mark Shuman
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#41
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order of decision making:
- what size do you need (nothing will kill this sport for you like a bike that doesn't fit)
- what is the budget
- what style do you want (match anticipated riding -- terrain, speed, distance)
- then what models fit these criteria
...going out of order is a little risky. Call the Dallas shop and get the critical measurements (spindle to saddle, saddle nose to bars, saddle nose setback for KOPS, bar width, drop, stem and TT length recommended, plus your own body (cycling inseam, sternal notch with shoes on)).
Once you have that, you can figure out what to go after. The brand or frame material won't mean much if it's too small. I can ride a 56-57 or a 62. they are too small and too big, and both hurt various places afetr an hour. But on a fully custom 59 with a steep HT and minimal trail for fast handling, I can ride 14 hours, no problem.
You're better off getting a frame that fits and buying used parts to upgrade as you go.
Happy to help -- PM me if you wish.
- what size do you need (nothing will kill this sport for you like a bike that doesn't fit)
- what is the budget
- what style do you want (match anticipated riding -- terrain, speed, distance)
- then what models fit these criteria
...going out of order is a little risky. Call the Dallas shop and get the critical measurements (spindle to saddle, saddle nose to bars, saddle nose setback for KOPS, bar width, drop, stem and TT length recommended, plus your own body (cycling inseam, sternal notch with shoes on)).
Once you have that, you can figure out what to go after. The brand or frame material won't mean much if it's too small. I can ride a 56-57 or a 62. they are too small and too big, and both hurt various places afetr an hour. But on a fully custom 59 with a steep HT and minimal trail for fast handling, I can ride 14 hours, no problem.
You're better off getting a frame that fits and buying used parts to upgrade as you go.
Happy to help -- PM me if you wish.
#42
Banned
Technically there's three options in the post (the title is misleading--maybe b/c I left out the third option...MAYBE).
So we'd need a three sided die, and I don't play D & D.
So we'd need a three sided die, and I don't play D & D.
Sorry I cannot make up your mind for you .. theabove post has good logic.
Number one Does It Fit , frame size ,,stem extensions and seatposts and the rest can be changed.
Last edited by fietsbob; 10-03-13 at 01:57 PM.
#43
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Lots of great advice here, but you need to go ride these bikes yourself. Especially considering the very large frame size you need, our experience on a given bike in a much smaller size won't likely be very applicable to your much larger sized frame (especially since most frame builders start changing geometry a lot above a 58 or 59cm frame size...).
#44
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Lots of great advice here, but you need to go ride these bikes yourself. Especially considering the very large frame size you need, our experience on a given bike in a much smaller size won't likely be very applicable to your much larger sized frame (especially since most frame builders start changing geometry a lot above a 58 or 59cm frame size...).
#45
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order of decision making:
- what size do you need (nothing will kill this sport for you like a bike that doesn't fit)
- what is the budget
- what style do you want (match anticipated riding -- terrain, speed, distance)
- then what models fit these criteria
...going out of order is a little risky. Call the Dallas shop and get the critical measurements (spindle to saddle, saddle nose to bars, saddle nose setback for KOPS, bar width, drop, stem and TT length recommended, plus your own body (cycling inseam, sternal notch with shoes on)).
Once you have that, you can figure out what to go after. The brand or frame material won't mean much if it's too small. I can ride a 56-57 or a 62. they are too small and too big, and both hurt various places afetr an hour. But on a fully custom 59 with a steep HT and minimal trail for fast handling, I can ride 14 hours, no problem.
You're better off getting a frame that fits and buying used parts to upgrade as you go.
Happy to help -- PM me if you wish.
- what size do you need (nothing will kill this sport for you like a bike that doesn't fit)
- what is the budget
- what style do you want (match anticipated riding -- terrain, speed, distance)
- then what models fit these criteria
...going out of order is a little risky. Call the Dallas shop and get the critical measurements (spindle to saddle, saddle nose to bars, saddle nose setback for KOPS, bar width, drop, stem and TT length recommended, plus your own body (cycling inseam, sternal notch with shoes on)).
Once you have that, you can figure out what to go after. The brand or frame material won't mean much if it's too small. I can ride a 56-57 or a 62. they are too small and too big, and both hurt various places afetr an hour. But on a fully custom 59 with a steep HT and minimal trail for fast handling, I can ride 14 hours, no problem.
You're better off getting a frame that fits and buying used parts to upgrade as you go.
Happy to help -- PM me if you wish.
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