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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 10-25-13, 12:38 PM   #1
soloexceptional
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Rear Wheel Question

I am looking to get a better rear wheel or is the one i have good enough. my bike is a 23in hybrid. i'm 6'5 i weight 380, and this is my real wheel specs.

32H DA17 Double Wall, Aluminum Alloy, 700c

i have had problems with the rear spokes. i adjust them or at least look at them before each ride, and they are loose but this ride i broke 2 spokes. i had the bike shop true my wheels and a general tune up and, after that is when i really started having this problem. is it possible to beef up what i have with larger spokes? or should i just get a new rear wheel. i mainly ride on bike paths with a small ride through town to get to the trail. Price is a concern (best bang for the buck). i do not have any front wheel issues at this time.

Thanks for the help..
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Old 10-25-13, 01:11 PM   #2
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You shouldn't been adjusting spokes before every ride. If you are actually turning the spoke nipples all that often, or even once a month, then there's something wrong with that wheel or you may have caused the spokes to break from being too tight.

Other than that, consider getting a real wheel with 36 spokes.

Here's one on EBay. You'll need to move the tire, tube, and cassette. Probably some rim tape also.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/700c-Hybrid-...item43c0e1dd20

Last edited by JerrySTL; 10-25-13 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 10-25-13, 04:08 PM   #3
Bill Kapaun
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At your weight, I think you're just asking too much from a 32 spoke rim.
You could get the wheel relaced with quality, double butted spokes, but I'm not sure if it would be cost justified unless you can rebuild the wheel yourself.
One of the problems with factory wheels is proper spoke tension.
The spokes are typically undertensioned. This allows the J bend to flex too much and fatigue.
Once you start breaking spokes, the others aren't far behind.
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Old 10-25-13, 04:19 PM   #4
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Will i need to get something, because this bike is all i have until i save up again but i thinking maybe something around, $150 or so more on the on the so (LOL) i better get some quality, so this won't be an issue unless i do some damage like banging a curb or something.
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Old 10-25-13, 05:42 PM   #5
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Since the problem started after your LBS trued the wheel, it would stand to reason that they screwed it up. Do some research and see if there is another bike shop that has a good reputation for working on wheels and talk to them about it. They might think that your current wheel is ok and retension it for you.

If the spokes are loose, like you mentioned, you will have trouble. If you haven't worked on wheels, you can do more harm than good by tightening the wrong spokes without knowing the effect on other spokes and wheel dish.

Good luck with getting your wheel issue sorted out!
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Old 10-25-13, 05:53 PM   #6
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If you have a local cycling club [check forum/facebook] ask who is the goto guy to have build a wheel.... it shouldnt be a prob in your budget...

As mentioned you could have the wheel rebuilt with new quality spokes but its prob not worth it... in the mean time have the spokes replaced and have them retension the entire wheel... based on your past experiance with that wheel and shop I wouldnt use the same shop though
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Old 10-25-13, 06:23 PM   #7
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If you keep breaking spokes after you get the spokes that have already broke replaced, the next step would be to have a 36h wheel built up likes someone mentioned already. If you go to a good LBS the shouldn't have any problem building a nice Clyde friendly wheel for $150-$200. I would definitely suggest hand built over machine built.
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Old 10-25-13, 06:34 PM   #8
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I had a new rear wheel made this year after busting some spokes, my LBS charged about $100 to build, install, and adjust the tensioning throughout the year.

Here is what I got http://www.amazon.com/Weinmann-ZAC19...keywords=zac19 the 12ga spokes have been holding up very nicely for me. I may even just switch out the front one as well.
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Old 10-25-13, 06:38 PM   #9
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Sounds good. i will get the spokes replaced and re-tensioned and see what happens. and look around for a replacement in the future. thank you for the information.
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Old 10-27-13, 06:45 AM   #10
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If you're going to get the spokes replaced/re tensioned you may want to consider a new wheel. The up front cost may be more but a well built wheel will pay dividends own the road. As mentioned before ask around and find a good wheel builder, that DEFINITELY makes a difference. Sounds like the guy who worked on your wheel may not be that guy. Typically if you buy the partsfrom the lbs and have them build it they will take care of you. If you do go that route do not forget to have the wheel re tensioned after 100 miles or so.
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Old 10-27-13, 09:25 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soloexceptional View Post
Sounds good. i will get the spokes replaced and re-tensioned and see what happens. and look around for a replacement in the future. thank you for the information.
Getting the wheel respoked is a good idea but don't make the mistake of using just any old spoke. Many people assume that a spoke is just a spoke. Much lighter riders can get away with that assumption but heavier riders and/or riders who ride heavily loaded bikes can't make the same assumption. Even double butted spokes aren't the proper choice for a heavy rider. You should investigate DT Alpine III, Wheelsmith DH13 or Sapim Strong spokes. All three have a 2.3mm diameter at the head vs a 2.0 diameter for a standard double butted spoke. That 0.3mm increases the breaking strength 48% for each spoke. It makes the wheel much stronger than a 'standard' wheel.
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Old 10-27-13, 12:45 PM   #12
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Wow, great information, thanks a million.
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Old 10-27-13, 10:19 PM   #13
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I would start with proper spoke tensioning first. Your spokes need to be nice and tight, not loose, but within a certain tension range that a good builder will know. If that didn't work out, id do as suggested above and go for a set of Sapim Strongs (or the DT equivalents).

A custom 36h wheel would be a sure-fire way to get the strength you're after, but would be the costliest.
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