I think my saddle is dead
#1
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I think my saddle is dead
When I first got this saddle it started to feel pretty good after about 100 miles. Lately it seems to be getting less and less comfortable. I weigh 320 these days and I am wondering if my weight is killing this particular piece of leather. First off I think I may have an abnormal amount of sag. This is with some lacing.
I only have about 1500 miles on this thing.
I haven't done any proofide in over a year so today I took it off to treat it since I commute on this thing in lots of various Florida weather and I noticed this.
If you can't tell it is the underside of a rivet. They are all cracked like this. Has anyone else ever seen this happen?
Even with the lacing it seems like this thing is uncomfortable as of late, and yes I have played with position including nose tilt.
Let me know what you guys think.
I only have about 1500 miles on this thing.
I haven't done any proofide in over a year so today I took it off to treat it since I commute on this thing in lots of various Florida weather and I noticed this.
If you can't tell it is the underside of a rivet. They are all cracked like this. Has anyone else ever seen this happen?
Even with the lacing it seems like this thing is uncomfortable as of late, and yes I have played with position including nose tilt.
Let me know what you guys think.
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Don't know why the pics are upside down and why one is the wrong pic. I'm gonna try reposting the broken rivet
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I'm a dude. Also yes I forgot to mention that this is a brooks b-17 standard. surprisingly the pain is in my sit bones, and sometimes thighs (Chaffing) not in my perineum, though I could see how it might look like it would squish that area. I have considered the cambrium.
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Are the rivets actualy broken ? Are they loose ? That looks like the normal mushrooming that results from setting the rivets. As has been said above you may need to adjust the tension bolt at the nose of the saddle.
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The rivets are't loose, but they are cracked and chipped.
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To me, it looks like your sit bones have created the dreaded 'ridge' that many Brooks fall symptom to when worn in. As I understand, instead of deforming and supporting your entire....arse....the saddle has permanently deformed, which puts much more pressure on the insides of the sit-bones and can cause pain. Is it the insides of your sit-bones that becomes painful? If this is the case, I think I've heard that you can soak your brooks in water (I know this will make some people whine), place a flat object on top (like a brick), and let dry. Re-tension after FULLY DRY(do not tension a wet brooks) and re-apply proofide. This might just bring back an expensive saddle that might otherwise go to the bin.
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To me, it looks like your sit bones have created the dreaded 'ridge' that many Brooks fall symptom to when worn in. As I understand, instead of deforming and supporting your entire....arse....the saddle has permanently deformed, which puts much more pressure on the insides of the sit-bones and can cause pain. Is it the insides of your sit-bones that becomes painful? If this is the case, I think I've heard that you can soak your brooks in water (I know this will make some people whine), place a flat object on top (like a brick), and let dry. Re-tension after FULLY DRY(do not tension a wet brooks) and re-apply proofide. This might just bring back an expensive saddle that might otherwise go to the bin.
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Like a fish, when a saddle goes belly up, that usually means it's dead.
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As for the sagging, did you "pretreat" your saddle before use to "soften" it? That could lead to the kind of deformation that you are seeing in such a short time frame.
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#13
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I did apply proofide a lot the first few weeks. I think this was a mistake, and I probably just need to chalk this one up to learning. I'm wondering if I should try a brooks pro, b-17 special, or perhaps even a Berthoud for a saddle with thicker leather. Or would I be ok with a standard b-17 and just not using much if any proofide. Do you folks think the thicker leather can make that much difference at 300+? My B-17 did have a comfortable period, but I can't afford a new b-17 every year or two. I'm also considering non leather saddles including the c-17.
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I'd try adding a bit of tension to the saddle before anything else. At 320, you can forget all the advice skinny people give about never tensioning a Brooks. Also, consider a saddle cover (Aardvark or similar) for rain or if/when you sweat so much that sweat ends up puddling on the saddle.
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I did apply proofide a lot the first few weeks. I think this was a mistake, and I probably just need to chalk this one up to learning. I'm wondering if I should try a brooks pro, b-17 special, or perhaps even a Berthoud for a saddle with thicker leather. Or would I be ok with a standard b-17 and just not using much if any proofide. Do you folks think the thicker leather can make that much difference at 300+? My B-17 did have a comfortable period, but I can't afford a new b-17 every year or two. I'm also considering non leather saddles including the c-17.
As a side note, your photo made me super-nostalgic for my old Schwinn Voyager. Hang on to that frame as long as you can!!!
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Thanks Hands. I have re laced the saddle, and did my first turn of the tention bolt. I'm sure I'll add more but I'm gonna take it slow. As far as width, I'd say my only small part is my but. Seriously I have no a$$. And as far as weight goes that won't affect sit bone spacing. Having said that I have looked at the Model 3 and would consider that saddle as well, for all the reason's you stated. And I love the Voyager. It is a great bike, with a very smooth ride.
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How much is a lot? I don't ride a B-17, I has two bikes with Brooks Team Pro and haven't seen anything like that and I used proof hide on it once a year and normally right before I go on a tour and that saddle has a few thousand miles on it.
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Probably twice a week the first month. I can't exactly remember, but it was something like that. I just remember a few months a ago I was researching lacing because the saddle was getting uncomfortable, and reading several posts stating that leather saddles should be treated approximately once a year, and not to do anything special to break them in and then thinking 'uh oh'.
I think at the time the leather seemed so tough and hard it seemed impossible that it would form to my shape without help. I know better now. After tightening the laces and increasing tension from the bolt, the saddle feels better. I'm gonna tighten it a bit today and ride for 15-20 Miles. If the shape holds up or improves with increased tension, which frankly I'm skeptical of, I'll use the saddle for a while longer. If it quickly reverts then it is time to choose a new saddle. While I recognize my role in what happened, if I get a new b-17 it will be a special, and I will by a cover. If I go the VO model 3, route which is a LOT cheaper than a b-17 special, I would still go with a cover for rainy days,
as a side note, I am about finished setting up a 90's steel mountain bike as my new commuter. It features schwalbe kojak 26x2.0 tires and trekking bars as my commuting upgrades to the cheap bike. That bike needs a news saddle as well, since it has a really uncomfortable no name saddle currently. I am thinking about getting the VO micro fiber touring saddle for this bike. I don't ever really ride more than 10 Miles at a time on this bike, and often less. If anyone had another good, non leather, <~$80 saddle suggestion for a bars even with saddle height set up to ride on pavement and brick/cobblestones I'm open to ideas.
I think at the time the leather seemed so tough and hard it seemed impossible that it would form to my shape without help. I know better now. After tightening the laces and increasing tension from the bolt, the saddle feels better. I'm gonna tighten it a bit today and ride for 15-20 Miles. If the shape holds up or improves with increased tension, which frankly I'm skeptical of, I'll use the saddle for a while longer. If it quickly reverts then it is time to choose a new saddle. While I recognize my role in what happened, if I get a new b-17 it will be a special, and I will by a cover. If I go the VO model 3, route which is a LOT cheaper than a b-17 special, I would still go with a cover for rainy days,
as a side note, I am about finished setting up a 90's steel mountain bike as my new commuter. It features schwalbe kojak 26x2.0 tires and trekking bars as my commuting upgrades to the cheap bike. That bike needs a news saddle as well, since it has a really uncomfortable no name saddle currently. I am thinking about getting the VO micro fiber touring saddle for this bike. I don't ever really ride more than 10 Miles at a time on this bike, and often less. If anyone had another good, non leather, <~$80 saddle suggestion for a bars even with saddle height set up to ride on pavement and brick/cobblestones I'm open to ideas.
#19
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Not to totally derail your thread, but have you considered the Selle Anatomic Titanico? They make one for us big fella's, have great customer service, and those that have them seem to love them (myself included). They have the cut-out and are very well made....
#20
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#21
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There is nothing I'd like more than to have the experience with a saddle that satisfied Anatomica customers report. However the problem I am having with my Brooks used to be a big issue for Anatomica customers. I know that they have made attempts to address this but I still have concerns. Selle Anatomica's own sight seems to indicate recommended weights for various models https://www.selleanatomica.com/produc...le-comparison/. Based on this it would seem that if you are over 250 they don't recommend any of the cut out models, and even the NSX doesn't seem to be rated for over 280. Erwin may I ask your weight? I'd love to hear from some 300lb or 300+ Clyde's who are successfully using an Anatomica before I make the investment. If I knew that that saddle could handle my weight I'd definitely give it a shot based on the reports of its comfort.
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I have a personal fitness goal to reach 250. Guess what I'm gonna get myself if I make it?
Last edited by jazzgeek79; 03-01-14 at 09:37 AM. Reason: Typo
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Probably twice a week the first month. I can't exactly remember, but it was something like that. I just remember a few months a ago I was researching lacing because the saddle was getting uncomfortable, and reading several posts stating that leather saddles should be treated approximately once a year, and not to do anything special to break them in and then thinking 'uh oh'.
I think at the time the leather seemed so tough and hard it seemed impossible that it would form to my shape without help. I know better now. After tightening the laces and increasing tension from the bolt, the saddle feels better. I'm gonna tighten it a bit today and ride for 15-20 Miles. If the shape holds up or improves with increased tension, which frankly I'm skeptical of, I'll use the saddle for a while longer. If it quickly reverts then it is time to choose a new saddle. While I recognize my role in what happened, if I get a new b-17 it will be a special, and I will by a cover. If I go the VO model 3, route which is a LOT cheaper than a b-17 special, I would still go with a cover for rainy days,
I think at the time the leather seemed so tough and hard it seemed impossible that it would form to my shape without help. I know better now. After tightening the laces and increasing tension from the bolt, the saddle feels better. I'm gonna tighten it a bit today and ride for 15-20 Miles. If the shape holds up or improves with increased tension, which frankly I'm skeptical of, I'll use the saddle for a while longer. If it quickly reverts then it is time to choose a new saddle. While I recognize my role in what happened, if I get a new b-17 it will be a special, and I will by a cover. If I go the VO model 3, route which is a LOT cheaper than a b-17 special, I would still go with a cover for rainy days,
#24
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2nd photo shows the machine set rivet,
as a package the more select thicker leathers went with the higher priced saddles which featured hand set copper rivets..
so even in the B17 a range of qualities/costs, exist ..
as a package the more select thicker leathers went with the higher priced saddles which featured hand set copper rivets..
so even in the B17 a range of qualities/costs, exist ..