Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-26-14, 08:05 AM   #26
SkippyX
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 590
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Standard 10mm QR axles on Freewheel hubs will fatigue and break the axle, overtime ,

because the bearing race is well inboard of the dropout..

Even Campagnolo freewheel hubs ..

But Phil wood resolved that by making a much fatter axle assembly ..
I used a Phil Wood Rear hub on my heavy loaded touring bike, for a couple decades ..

got a 48 spoke hub-shell at another bike shop's garage sale in the 80's,
sent the shell to Phil, they put in the axle and bearing assembly , then I Built up the wheels ..

Mavic Mod 4 rim , 5 cross FWIW. 2mm straight Ga. spokes .

I didn't know all of that. Thanks!

Is Phil Wood still making freewheel hubs in the correct spacing? I guess I'm asking if I'm better off converting to a freehub? I could still lace up 27" wheels if I wanted to. I assume the only real difference there would be the length of the spokes used.

I'm still a bit iffy about lacing up a set of wheels myself. Brought my copy of "The Bicycle Wheel" to work w/ me today to try to gird my loins to have a shot at it.
SkippyX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-14, 09:29 AM   #27
fietsbob 
coprolite
 
fietsbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 7
Posts: 22,134
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1124 Post(s)
they have changed the overall design, from a steel sleeve with the bearing assembly-axle pressed in,
alloy spoke flanges screwed & bonded to the outside,

to a machined Alloy hub shell with a field serviceable axle ..

they're in San Jose Cal so you can call and email them directly .. https://www.philwood.com/

about the axle end cap pieces to fit your frame .. and its drop-out spread.
fietsbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-14, 09:55 AM   #28
donalson
just pedal
 
donalson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Kemah, TX (greater Houston area)
Bikes: Surly Disc Trucker, Klein stage comp, trek 560
Posts: 925
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkippyX View Post
By "cold set" do you mean bend the rear triangles to achieve proper spacing for the longer hubs?
that is exactly what cold setting is... but it is un-needed if you are only going from a 126mm hub spacing (what you have) to a 130mm (normal road wheel size) i've done that on two different frames (one being my current road bike) without an issue

Bicycle Frame/Hub Spacing
donalson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-14, 11:25 AM   #29
squirtdad
Senior Member
 
squirtdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Bikes: '89 Miyata 1400, '82 nishiski, 84 Torpado super strada (Cino someday)
Posts: 4,207
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkippyX View Post
By "cold set" do you mean bend the rear triangles to achieve proper spacing for the longer hubs?

Man, if that's the case my options just grew tremendously.

I actually do have a budget, but the wheelset you referenced are close enough to it to be an option. As far as the brake reach goes, I've read about people doing that conversion on the same model that I have and the stock calipers supposedly worked fine.

I had a CR18 on the bike that was stolen. Never had any problem at all out of that wheel - which is not something I can say about other wheels I've had on that bike.
yes by cold set I mean spread the rear triangle so it is permanently bigger. your bike is almost 100% 126 mm. The 700c wheels will be 130. IME you can easily just put the 130 wheels in a 126 spread. Mountbike wheels are 135mm in that case you would be advised to cold set. remember cold set only applies to steel frames.
__________________
Looking for Torpado Superlight 58cm
squirtdad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-14, 11:44 AM   #30
Little Darwin
The Improbable Bulk
 
Little Darwin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA
Bikes: Many
Posts: 8,402
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
I have a vintage Schwinn Voyageur, and for it, I had a set of wheels built with 27" CR18 rims and new Tiagra hubs a few years ago. It works well for me, and if I could lose enough gut to get in the drops, I would be on it instead of my hybrids, and I would be confident in using the bike with those wheels.

So based on my experience, any well built set of wheels is fine, and also spreading a steel frame to 130mm is not a problem. I didn't even cold set the frame, I just take a little extra effort to remove and replace the rear wheel when needed.
__________________
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA

People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Little Darwin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-14, 02:35 PM   #31
SkippyX
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 590
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Darwin View Post
I have a vintage Schwinn Voyageur, and for it, I had a set of wheels built with 27" CR18 rims and new Tiagra hubs a few years ago. It works well for me, and if I could lose enough gut to get in the drops, I would be on it instead of my hybrids, and I would be confident in using the bike with those wheels.

So based on my experience, any well built set of wheels is fine, and also spreading a steel frame to 130mm is not a problem. I didn't even cold set the frame, I just take a little extra effort to remove and replace the rear wheel when needed.
Same problem I have. The drops are a pain in the butt for that very same reason.

I'm pretty well sold on the CR18 rims. Like I said, I had one of those on the stolen hybrid and it was a solid rim.
SkippyX is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:26 PM.