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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lean back View Post
    ..... I'll only recommend tandem wheels from now on if anyone asks.
    Now, now, no need for sarcasm.
    Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.

  2. #27
    Senior Member daviddavieboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lean back View Post
    I can only hope the RS10's last several thousand miles. I understand that this is the Clyde forum and hence the wheels being discussed should be Clyde worthy.
    I have about 500 miles on the new set of rs-10 wheels that came on my bike. They seem great, still true even with hitting more that a few holes that ruined the tires. If I had to say anything bad it would be that the bearings are not as smooth as I would like.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigfred View Post
    Hi Leanback,

    Please don't take this the wrong way. I'm saying it with one of those joking grins on my ugly mug.

    500 Miles?

    Peesha, they're not even dirty yet.

    This is one of the challenges we face on open forums boards like Bikeforums. At my current weekly average, 500 miles is less an 4 weeks use. That's hardly enough to offer any sort of indication about a wheels long term durability. Even the the wheels we generally consider unsuitable for clydes should be capable of delivering 5,000+ miles. Some might go 10,000miles. But, the truely clyde worthy wheels that a lot of us talk about are going for 20,000+ miles or until the brake track wears out. Which ever comes first depending on your location and how much riding you do in bad weather, without going out of true or breaking a spoke. That's durable.
    I think Clyde-worthy and durable are two different things,

    An underbuilt wheel can be immediately noticeable, for example, by lateral flex. You don't need to ride 20k miles to feel that kind of instability.

    Of course, too light, poorly built, or otherwise unsuitable wheels can break within very few miles, too. I've had underbuilt wheels go out of true on the first or second ride!

    in other words, the test of time is not the only benchmark for worthiness as it is for durability.
    Chaad--'95 DeKerf Team SL, '02 Lemond Buenos Aires, '05 Novara Buzz, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '06 Mountain Cycle Rumble, '09 Dahon Mariner D7, '12 Mercier Nano, '12 Breezer Venturi

  4. #29
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaadster View Post
    I think Clyde-worthy and durable are two different things,

    An underbuilt wheel can be immediately noticeable, for example, by lateral flex. You don't need to ride 20k miles to feel that kind of instability.

    Of course, too light, poorly built, or otherwise unsuitable wheels can break within very few miles, too. I've had underbuilt wheels go out of true on the first or second ride!

    in other words, the test of time is not the only benchmark for worthiness as it is for durability.
    What some one consider "worthy" has a lot to do with their expectations.

    A 235lb, crit racing, clyde might be perfectly satisfied by 5000 miles out of a set of "race day" wheels.

    I think you're absolutely correct that there are measures other than simple durability that determine if a wheel is suitable for a riders specific concerns. Presuming the immediately obvious ones, like flex, are adequate, the ultimate measure is time/mileage and whether that wheel satisfies that expectation while meeting the aforementioned.

    In the case of your underbuilt wheels going out of true in only one or two rides, I really have to suspect, unless those wheels were built with a very low spoke count of extremely light spokes, that would be a case of inadequate spoke tension, uniformity and/or nipple retention.

    Out of curiousity, what do you weigh and what wheel components are we talking about and to what drive side tension?
    Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigfred View Post
    In the case of your underbuilt wheels going out of true in only one or two rides, I really have to suspect, unless those wheels were built with a very low spoke count of extremely light spokes, that would be a case of inadequate spoke tension, uniformity and/or nipple retention.

    Out of curiousity, what do you weigh and what wheel components are we talking about and to what drive side tension?
    You're definitely correct in surmising those under built wheels were also poorly built; it was an extreme example, and perhaps unfair for me to use it, because it was my first attempt at wheel building, back in '90/'91, so I take full responsibility for doing lousy work! Spoke tension? More like, "feels about right."

    I remember it like it was yesterday...because the wheels were extremely sh*tty! I used Mavic 231 rims, a Shimano 600 (or maybe it was called 600ES) road hub for light weight, and a Shimano XT rear hub, all 32 hole. I laced them up with 15g straight spokes and alu nipples. They were light, but the tension was all out of whack, and eventually, after a week straight of constant truing, even out on the trail, I took 'em to Velocipede Peddler in E.Lansing to have them make 'em right, which they did. However, weighing around 200lbs at the time, they just couldn't take the abuse, and after practically taco'ing the front during a race and feeling the rear flexing around under power, I sold off the surviving rear to a friend and got some pro built wheels.

    I've not bothered to build a wheel myself since!
    Chaad--'95 DeKerf Team SL, '02 Lemond Buenos Aires, '05 Novara Buzz, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '06 Mountain Cycle Rumble, '09 Dahon Mariner D7, '12 Mercier Nano, '12 Breezer Venturi

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