|
Originally Posted by meanwhile
(Post 16774633)
Ok: so what is the correct PSI for a 25mm tyre with a 300lb load??? And how many tyres are specced for this pressure? You don't know! Giving advice that something is safe to do unless you know this type of detail might make you feel good, but it isn't actually helpful.
In fact, most road tyres simply have a maximum PSI that's usually quoted as being riders as over 180lbs or so - i.e. this optimum for a rider of that weight, and at the same time the most the tyre will safely take. So anyone weighing more than 180lbs will be riding on an underpressure tyre. Now, that's not too bad if you're 230lb and flabby - but if you're nearly 300lb and have great leg strength (which imposes its own loads on tyres) you are now waaaay out of the design spec. Which, aside from the safety concerns, means that the wheel will roll more slowly than it should. (People think thin tyres are fast, but the real physics is much complex - it's about hysteresis energy, not friction: a thicker tyre at the correct pressure will be faster - at least if it is made out of race grade low-hysteresis energy rubber, like the Supremes.) You're right I don't know crap about hysteresis energy. Its my opinion that a person should get the bike they like and not over think it. But you're allowed to think anything you want also. I don't have the scientific facts to back it up but I've seen plenty of 250 to 300 lb riders on 23s and 25s and don't recall a single wheel or tire exploded on the side of the road, but what do I know, I'm 230 lbs and flabby |
Originally Posted by meanwhile
(Post 16774453)
it's terrible advice.
Because 1. Many shops are incompetent in my piss-ant village! 2. Most are immeditate sales oriented, so they'll try to put you on a bike they have in stock - which is especially bad if you are an odd fit and need a non-standard bike type 3. Most, in my village have only a small range of bikes 4. Very few have any knowledge how to fit or choose a bike for an athletic almost 300lber. The poster who suggested a crosser was exactly right. Thin-tyred racers aren't impossible for someone your weight to ride, but they're a bad idea - the design is optimized people weighing more than 100lbs less than you and the particular circumstances of racing. (and very often give even these riders spine problems.) just trying to get the tyre pressure right for someone of your weight means abusing the hardware your safety relies on. Tyres might be cheap to replace, they're key to braking and turning, and therefore not going under a truck, and i'm doubtful that you'll be able to keep 25mm tyres in the design range for psi without risking pinch flatting, rim damage and sudden blow outs. A crosser with the right tyres will be more comfortable, brake and turn better, and be less liable to give you a spine injury. Oh - and you'll probably want to get it fitted with wider than standard handlebars as well as 32-45mm high performance road tyres like marathon supremes. The other thing you should do before ever going near a store is to research bike fit for yourself - google "bike fit calculator" and when there are options choose those that give the most relaxed fit. Then consider buying online from somewhere like bikes direct and having a local mechanic tune and check the bike, because you really can save about half the sticker price this way. Look at information on required tyre width/pressure and weight carried too! Bottom line: The more you know, the less likely you are to be screwed over - deliberately or by accident. And the further you are from the ordinary customer, the more responsibility you have to take for your own welfware. Where have you been hiding since last October? It seems you just started posting again out of the blue with ideas that seem to run counter to what most have. Unless a person has mechanical aptitude he is much better to establish a relationship with his LBS than to buy on his own un-guided and pay someone to assemble as you suggest. Sure knowledge is power and you are right to offer the advice to do his own research prior to purchase but your advice otherwise seems odd. Have you had a really bad experience with a LBS? Were was that? |
Originally Posted by WestPablo
(Post 16774917)
Whenever between bicycle sizes, always prefer the smaller size. Adjustments can always be made in order to accommodate you with a smaller bike. A bike that's too large, it just too darned large. You'll never acclimate to it...
* Try the Cannondale Synapse and see if you still observe this sizing phenomenon. I am leaning towards the Scott Speedster 50. Price was good at $499.99. Or I also found a used 2013 CAAD8 that looks in pretty good shape for $650. but its a 61cm. Not sure which one I should go with. |
Originally Posted by Black wallnut
(Post 16775242)
fify
evidence of this? FIFY What is an "athletic"? It seems you don't either with notions that very few agree with. What is a crosser? Guessing it is the local (to you) word for cylcocross or cross or cx bike. Cross bikes do not have better brakes than road bikes IME. On the road I don't find them more comfortable either. Where have you been hiding since last October? It seems you just started posting again out of the blue with ideas that seem to run counter to what most have. Unless a person has mechanical aptitude he is much better to establish a relationship with his LBS than to buy on his own un-guided and pay someone to assemble as you suggest. Sure knowledge is power and you are right to offer the advice to do his own research prior to purchase but your advice otherwise seems odd. Have you had a really bad experience with a LBS? Were was that? Well said |
Originally Posted by TJClay
(Post 16775126)
You're right I don't know crap about hysteresis energy. Its my opinion that a person should get the bike they like and not over think it.
Problem Solvers | Optimal Bike Tire Pressure ...300lbs with 25mm is so insane it isn't on the graph (which should be all you need to know..) but you can extrapolate easily enough. Another issue no one has mentioned is that this guy isn't fat, he's big and atheletic. So he may well have much broader shoulders than the people racing bikes are built for. I do, so when I ride a dropbar bike of any type I have to fit 46 to 48 cm bars - Nitto Noodles or Salsa Bell Laps usually. If I didn't do this then I'd be at risk pinching the nerves running through the carpal tunnel, which can lead to RSI. I've never had a bike store tell me to do this, even though everyone knows the rules about shoulder alignment and bar size, and its obvious that a standard bike won't fit me. "Just ride the bike you like" is not good advice when someone's body is waaaaay out of the parameters the designers had in mind when they designed the bike. It works adeqately, usually, precisely because bike riders fall in a range that was planned for by the designer. The more your body departs from this zone, the more research you need to do. If you'd rather ride a bike that looks like it was meant for the TDF rather than one that fits you and has the tyres at the right pressure and therefore goes faster, while being more comfortable and safer, that's fine - but I don't think you should ask people not to give objective advice because you don't like it. |
What is a crosser? Guessing it is the local (to you) word for cylcocross or cross or cx bike. Cross bikes do not have better brakes than road bikes IME. On the road I don't find them more comfortable either. As for braking: it's ultimately limited by contact patch, where a crosser can be much better. But most crossers have mis-installed brakes - see the sticky in the cyclocross faq. |
Originally Posted by meanwhile
(Post 16775487)
And that's fine as a personal philosophy but about the least useful thing possible if someone asks for objective advice. Because, objectively, 25mm tyres are NOT meant for 270lb loads! There's a reasonable graph here:
Problem Solvers | Optimal Bike Tire Pressure ...300lbs with 25mm is so insane it isn't on the graph (which should be all you need to know..) but you can extrapolate easily enough. Another issue no one has mentioned is that this guy isn't fat, he's big and atheletic. So he may well have much broader shoulders than the people racing bikes are built for. I do, so when I ride a dropbar bike of any type I have to fit 46 to 48 cm bars - Nitto Noodles or Salsa Bell Laps usually. If I didn't do this then I'd be at risk pinching the nerves running through the carpal tunnel, which can lead to RSI. I've never had a bike store tell me to do this, even though everyone knows the rules about shoulder alignment and bar size, and its obvious that a standard bike won't fit me. "Just ride the bike you like" is not good advice when someone's body is waaaaay out of the parameters the designers had in mind when they designed the bike. It works adeqately, usually, precisely because bike riders fall in a range that was planned for by the designer. The more your body departs from this zone, the more research you need to do. If you'd rather ride a bike that looks like it was meant for the TDF rather than one that fits you and has the tyres at the right pressure and therefore goes faster, while being more comfortable and safer, that's fine - but I don't think you should ask people not to give objective advice because you don't like it. It's know it alls like you that make me usually just lurk in here and not comment. That being said i'll bow out of this thread and let you pass on your vast knowledge to us unimformed. |
Originally Posted by meanwhile
(Post 16775501)
If you find a crosser less comfortable than a road bike, then the crosser doesn't fit you. Seriously: road racing teams often use crossers for road stages where the tarmac is less than manicured *because* they are more comfortable!
As for braking: it's ultimately limited by contact patch, where a crosser can be much better. But most crossers have mis-installed brakes - see the sticky in the cyclocross faq. From afar you seem to know a lot about my bikes and my fit. When actually your ideas are just plain wrong. This back and forth is fun and all but like another member I'll just add you to my "iggy" list as well. If you find a CX bike more comfortable than your road bike then that is just great. I'll not question your fit of each because I have no knowledge of your fit to either. Your conclusions are simply not supported by reality. |
"wow, that escalated quickly"
|
Let's keep the discussion on-topic and not hostile, please.
Originally Posted by H3NDRIX
(Post 16772149)
So after searching the forums for a while and reading a ton.. I decided to post up..
I am new to the forums, I currently ride MTB a few times a month, but have the itch to start riding road. I am an athletic(Played D.1 NCAA Football) 6' 3 3/4" and currently 290. Just finished up my football career and would like to shed my playing weight. My question is what Is a good entry/intermediate level bike that I am not going to out grow in 6 months. What Features should I be looking for to make this bike good for someone my size? I would like to stay under or around $1k. thanks in advance |
^^ thanks.
Well ill I have narrowed down my choice to either a CAAD8 7 sora or the Scott speedster 50. I'm leaning towards the caad8 because it has the better components |
I concur with choosing the smaller frame. I used to own a CAAD9 that was a 56cm, and while it felt good leg wise, it was just a bit long in the top tube, but bought it anyway, thinking I could make it fit. That was bad on my part. 5 years later, I happened on to a steel frame that seemed like it would be a good fit, but after building it up, again...just a bit long in the top tube. Finally gave up on both...bought a 54 Cannondale SuperSix and it was head and shoulders more comfy than the other two bikes. I was able to make adjustments to dial it in and not have to fight it like I did with my CAAD9 or my Steel Frame. I have not had to "tweak" it since I got it perfectly adjusted in 9 months. I recently bought a Trek CrossFit for my commuting needs, bought a 52 as the frame fit me like a 54 in my road bike.
If you feel the 58 fit you better and was more comfy, go with it, you will be happier in the long run riding that bike and versus continually tinkering making it fit. Enjoy and welcome to the forum. |
Update on my search:
Went back to my LBS and rode the CAAD8 in the 61 and rode the Scott speedster 50 in the 58cm. I think I will be going back this weekend and picking up the Scott. it just feels a little better. Cant complain about the price either... $499.99. |
Originally Posted by H3NDRIX
(Post 16781788)
Update on my search:
Went back to my LBS and rode the CAAD8 in the 61 and rode the Scott speedster 50 in the 58cm. I think I will be going back this weekend and picking up the Scott. it just feels a little better. Cant complain about the price either... $499.99. Oh, and pix or it didn't happen! ;) |
ok so my next question is:
What are a decent set of pedals for this bike? Can I run mtb pedals and shoes? shoes are going to be hard for me to find, I wear a size 15/16us |
I run mountain pedals on all my bikes, road or mtb as I use the Time ROC S ATAC pedals. It's all in what you like. I've ridden both MTB and Road pedals but I migrated back to these. I also have been spoiled by the SIDI Dominator 5 I picked up for a ridiculously low sales price a few years back and my feet scream and complain if I use anything else. If you can find them on sale...I say they are worth looking at. I use the MEGA size.
|
I use SPDs on all of my bikes and Sidi Dominators. I like this setup because I can walk in these shoes a bit when touring and they fit my wide feet.
I'm not familiar with the Scott Speedster but that is a good price for a beginning road bike. |
So I might be getting a 2013 caad10 rival for fairly cheap(sub $1000). According to cannondales website it has a full carbon fork. Will that be ok for my weight? Or should I look for a alum steer post with carbon legs??
|
Originally Posted by H3NDRIX
(Post 16791733)
So I might be getting a 2013 caad10 rival for fairly cheap(sub $1000). According to cannondales website it has a full carbon fork. Will that be ok for my weight? Or should I look for a alum steer post with carbon legs??
|
Originally Posted by ahultin
(Post 16791798)
I am @285 and have @15000 miles on my fuji roubaix with carbon fork which I purchased at @330lb. I have ridden 23mm tires but currently use 25's as I find them more comfortable. I run the 25mm gator hardshells at 120psi and have not had any asplosions, carbon or otherwise. Buy it and ride the hell out of it!
I already found some shoes and got a pair of time iclic 2 carbon pedals. |
4 Attachment(s)
Well here it is.. My new CAAD10 4 rival. bought it used, but the guy only put like 50 miles on it. I got a pair of Shimano SH-R087G shoes and a set of time iclic2 carbon pedals. hopefully going to go for my first ride this weekend...only thing I'm not to sure about is the rims on this bike which are Shimano RS10's. hopefully they will hold up for a while.
|
Originally Posted by H3NDRIX
(Post 16802489)
Well here it is.. My new CAAD10 4 rival. bought it used, but the guy only put like 50 miles on it. I got a pair of Shimano SH-R087G shoes and a set of time iclic2 carbon pedals. hopefully going to go for my first ride this weekend...only thing I'm not to sure about is the rims on this bike which are Shimano RS10's. hopefully they will hold up for a while.
|
Originally Posted by MRT2
(Post 16802553)
Nice bike, but I have my doubts about those wheels at 290. Just eyeballing them, they look like wheels for someone 120 lbs lighter than you. I am just a little north of 260 and wouldn't ride those, and I doubt my legs can generate the kind of force yours can.
|
Originally Posted by H3NDRIX
(Post 16802632)
yeah, I was already thinking about getting new wheels before I even go on any serious rides. Any suggestions for budget minded wheels that will hold up??
"Bombproof Build for Heavy Riders Touring and General Road Bike Riding Tired of Breaking Spokes on Cheap Wheels? This is the wheel for you!!!" http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-105-...item3a7811f73a |
Originally Posted by H3NDRIX
(Post 16802632)
yeah, I was already thinking about getting new wheels before I even go on any serious rides. Any suggestions for budget minded wheels that will hold up??
The back wheel is key. 32, 36 or even 40 spoke wheels would be good. My advice is to consult with a local wheel builder and see what he recommends. It isn't so much the name brand of the rims, spokes or hubs, but the quality of the build that matters. You might be able to get away with a less robust front wheel, but don't skimp on the back wheel. |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:33 AM. |
Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.