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Thread: Spokes Pinging

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    Spokes Pinging

    I have a brand new Scoot Speedster S50 2013 Scott Speedster 50 - Road Bike Components and Reviews Approx 100 miles on it now. I am 280lbs in full gear, the spokes just started pinging if I put any amount of weight on the front end. Could it just be that the spokes need tightened after initial break in period? Or should I be concerned that the wheels may be straining under my weight? I will be stopping in to my LBS to ask them but wanted to be armed with a little knowledge before I go in there and he tells me I weigh too much for the bike HE sold me LOL. All thoughts, surmising and musings are gladly accepted.

    Billy

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    It's an indication that the spokes don't have enough tension and the ones on the bottom of the wheel are loosening enough when you put weight on the bike to move a little and make the ping sound. Eventually the spokes that move that way on each wheel rotation will start to fatigue and break - so the shop should retension the wheel to a higher level.

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    Nigel nfmisso's Avatar
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    The wheel was not properly tensioned and VERY IMPORTANTLY stress relieved.

    New wheels will sometime ping; but the pinging should go away in two or three revolutions of the wheels (less than 20ft/6m) or riding. If they are pinging beyond that, see above.
    Nigel
    Mechanical Design Engineer

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    Thanks for the input, headed up there now

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    I always question my shop as I don't feel I was properly fitted (They fitted me by just looking at me), I took it in and the young man says there appears to be nothing wrong with my spokes and that they feel properly tensioned. I left it with him to go over it and he called me back saying the wheel was out of true and that I shouldn't replace the bent spoke I pointed out to him, he said it wouldn't make a difference and that it was stable. Im no bicycle mechanic but that just doesn't sound right to me. Sucks because I bought my bike there and they give me free tuneups etc but what I really want to do is return it and buy elsewhere. Uggghhhh

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    Senior Member Dave Cutter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huskysibe View Post
    I have a brand new Scoot Speedster S50 2013 Scott Speedster 50 - Road Bike Components and Reviews ...... I will be stopping in to my LBS to ask them but wanted to be armed with a little knowledge before I go in there and he tells me I weigh too much for the bike HE sold me LOL. ...
    Quote Originally Posted by Huskysibe View Post
    I always question my shop as I don't feel I was properly fitted .......... Sucks because I bought my bike there and they give me free tuneups etc but what I really want to do is return it and buy elsewhere. Uggghhhh
    I like your bike. And it was probably a really good pick for a beginner cyclist.

    It's important to have a good relationship with your bicycle shop. And all relationships... are two-way streets.
    You can:
    1. Just walk away from this shop and pay for the service you want/need somewhere else.
    2. Or... you can work on the relationship that you've already bought into.

    I'd guess your just worried that your going to break your new investment. Hang in there... and force yourself to trust a little. It won't hurt... and it's cheaper! Enjoy that bike and ride lots. You got a great chance here to get fit and as healthy/thin as you desire. And it's fun too!
    Last edited by Dave Cutter; 07-08-14 at 02:38 PM.

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    Thanks Dave!
    I must just be overthinking things. I need to let the professionals do their thing and not question. The shop owner is a former racer so he probably knows whats best without trying too hard.

    Billy
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Cutter View Post
    I like your bike. And it was probably a really good pick for a beginner cyclist.

    It's important to have a good relationship with your bicycle shop. And all relationships... are two-way streets.
    You can:
    1. Just walk away from this shop and pay for the service you want/need somewhere else.
    2. Or... you can work on the relationship that you've already bought into.

    I'd guess your just worried that your going to break your new investment. Hang in there... and force yourself to trust a little. It won't hurt... and it's cheaper! Enjoy that bike and ride lots. You got a great chance here to get fit and as healthy/thin as you desire. And it's fun too!

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    Senior Member mulveyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huskysibe View Post
    Thanks Dave!
    I must just be overthinking things. I need to let the professionals do their thing and not question. The shop owner is a former racer so he probably knows whats best without trying too hard.

    Billy
    Being a former racer doesn't mean anything other than he probably knows something about racing. There's a mindset to some racers that doesn't necessarily lend itself to appreciating the needs of recreational or utility cyclists. Fit, for example--a "good" fit for a competitor can be utterly inappropriate for someone interested in casual riding who never does more than ten or twenty miles per week.
    Knows the weight of my bike to the nearest 10 pounds.

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    Senior Member spdracr39's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huskysibe View Post
    Thanks Dave!
    I must just be overthinking things. I need to let the professionals do their thing and not question. The shop owner is a former racer so he probably knows whats best without trying too hard.

    Billy
    But was it the shop owner giving you this information or just the shop mechanic? If you are unhappy discuss the issue with the owner. That alone will allow you to determine the integrity of the shop. Don't be put off by a mechanic that might have had a busy day and didn't have time to deal with your issue properly.

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    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    According to your link the wheels are 20/28 spoke.
    I think 20 is too few for your weight. 28 rear is probably OK if you aren't hitting potholes etc. AND the wheel is properly built.

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    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr39 View Post
    But was it the shop owner giving you this information or just the shop mechanic? If you are unhappy discuss the issue with the owner. That alone will allow you to determine the integrity of the shop. Don't be put off by a mechanic that might have had a busy day and didn't have time to deal with your issue properly.
    Its a small shop and the owner is the wrench, he has a young kid wrenching also but the owner does the lions share. I decided to just keep going in there and asking for tune ups and having them keep checking the wheels to ensure they are true. Its a service they offer for free since I purchased the bike there. After a year I will trade up my current ride for something a little better and by that time I will have more knowledge as to what I want and how things should fit and be adjusted for me and my body type and riding style.

    Billy

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
    According to your link the wheels are 20/28 spoke.
    I think 20 is too few for your weight. 28 rear is probably OK if you aren't hitting potholes etc. AND the wheel is properly built.
    I ride paved trail that's pretty uniformly smooth. I need to drop some weight anyhow, hopefully these wheels will hold up until I can upgrade the whole bike. Thanks for your insight, I thought they may be a little low on the spoke count for my size but I hadn't ridden in over 10 years and technology changed so much so I just let him do his thing in suggesting a bike for me. Next time I will have a lot more input.

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    Senior Member Null66's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huskysibe View Post
    I ride paved trail that's pretty uniformly smooth. I need to drop some weight anyhow, hopefully these wheels will hold up until I can upgrade the whole bike. Thanks for your insight, I thought they may be a little low on the spoke count for my size but I hadn't ridden in over 10 years and technology changed so much so I just let him do his thing in suggesting a bike for me. Next time I will have a lot more input.
    It's a very nice bike...

    Wheels are an issue.

    People round here seem to discount the hassle of breaking things.
    I broke a number of spokes on 40 spoke wheels.

    Fortunately, I was never stranded by a broken spoke. That there were 40 probably got me home, minus rear brakes of course...

    Was though stranded 10+ miles from home by a wheel bearing. It was damn hot, dangerously hot... I had run out of water before the front wheel seized. It was a very uncomfortable walk home. Fortunately, a guy picked me up. Who in their right mind picks up a then middle aged 280lb weight lifting sweaty hitchhiker in spandex? I am damn grateful to that guy. I still got sick from the heat as it was...

    Built up a bike a while after that. The primary requirement when building it is reliability.
    Heavy yes, but then so am I...

    A lot of riders don't recognize the unique stresses people our weight and strength places on bikes. I had 3 problems on my 2007 Fuji Tourer. I would tear the rear wheel free and it would jam into the chainstay if I peddled hard. I broke a lot of spokes on the rear wheel (drive side), and just couldn't get the canti's to provide adequate braking... Tried many shops and mechanics, even a builder. I loved this bike, it fit ever so well. But these were fatal flaws...

    So, please consider asking them to retension the wheels... And save up for wheel set scaled for your size.

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    Senior Member chriskmurray's Avatar
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    Those wheels are not ideal for a heavier rider but to give them a fighting chance making sure they are properly tensioned and stress relieved is key. Did the mechanic actually put a gauge on the spokes or did he just squeeze them? Even after having built well over 1,000 wheels and worked on many thousands more, I still will not consider a wheel complete until it has been double checked by a tension gauge.

    I would also have them make sure the hubs are properly adjusted, nearly every new bike ships with the hubs adjusted too tightly.

    I personally would make sure the wheels are properly tensioned (with a gauge) and stress relieved and then if you break a spoke start planning on a new set of wheels, realizing a broken spoke will likely leave the bike un-rideable with such low spoke counts. If you have the money and value piece of mind springing for a new set of wheels is not a bad preemptive strike against road side failures though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chriskmurray View Post
    Those wheels are not ideal for a heavier rider but to give them a fighting chance making sure they are properly tensioned and stress relieved is key. Did the mechanic actually put a gauge on the spokes or did he just squeeze them? Even after having built well over 1,000 wheels and worked on many thousands more, I still will not consider a wheel complete until it has been double checked by a tension gauge.

    I would also have them make sure the hubs are properly adjusted, nearly every new bike ships with the hubs adjusted too tightly.

    I personally would make sure the wheels are properly tensioned (with a gauge) and stress relieved and then if you break a spoke start planning on a new set of wheels, realizing a broken spoke will likely leave the bike un-rideable with such low spoke counts. If you have the money and value piece of mind springing for a new set of wheels is not a bad preemptive strike against road side failures though.
    He just squeezed them, I need to head back in there I guess. I like the bike, wished I would have gotten better components but I can correct that later.

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    Senior Member chriskmurray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huskysibe View Post
    He just squeezed them, I need to head back in there I guess. I like the bike, wished I would have gotten better components but I can correct that later.
    Other than wheels that bike should be great for thousands of miles. Even though it is one of their low end groups Sora is still pretty solid stuff. I have seen Sora shifters go well over 10k miles on customer bikes. If the bike fits you, plan on better wheels at some point and upgrade as you would like but it is actually a very nice bike for the money, get as many miles out of it as you can until upgrade-itis hits and you want nicer just "because". You can also go the n+1 route in the future as well and skip the upgrade thing all together!

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    Quote Originally Posted by chriskmurray View Post
    Other than wheels that bike should be great for thousands of miles. Even though it is one of their low end groups Sora is still pretty solid stuff. I have seen Sora shifters go well over 10k miles on customer bikes. If the bike fits you, plan on better wheels at some point and upgrade as you would like but it is actually a very nice bike for the money, get as many miles out of it as you can until upgrade-itis hits and you want nicer just "because". You can also go the n+1 route in the future as well and skip the upgrade thing all together!
    I like the idea of n+1 LOL Any suggestions on wheels I should be looking at? I am totally lost when it comes to that. Thanks a million

    Billy

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    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huskysibe View Post
    I ride paved trail that's pretty uniformly smooth. I need to drop some weight anyhow, hopefully these wheels will hold up until I can upgrade the whole bike. Thanks for your insight, I thought they may be a little low on the spoke count for my size but I hadn't ridden in over 10 years and technology changed so much so I just let him do his thing in suggesting a bike for me. Next time I will have a lot more input.
    OOPS! I looked again and they state the wheels are 24/20 spokes.

    I think I'd look into investing in a good set of wheels now IF they will fit your future bike.
    Then, you could use them and swap onto the new bike and put the factory wheels back on this bike if you look to sell it.
    I just can't see a 24 spoke rear holding up to your weight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
    OOPS! I looked again and they state the wheels are 24/20 spokes.

    I think I'd look into investing in a good set of wheels now IF they will fit your future bike.
    Then, you could use them and swap onto the new bike and put the factory wheels back on this bike if you look to sell it.
    I just can't see a 24 spoke rear holding up to your weight.
    I plan to upgrade to a Carbon Scott with better components in the next 6 months. What do you suggest for wheels now that will carry me to the next bike and beyond?

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    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    You basically want a rim that's a similar width to what you have now to avoid any width issues with the brakes.
    I built a set of Sun Rims M13II's for my hybrid. These were much narrower than the stock rims and I had to move & add spacers to the V brakes to get the pads to hit the rim properly. Kind of to the degree that I'm a bit borderline to the amount of stud left protruding for the nut.
    Since your bike comes with 23mm tires, I assume you have rather narrow rims. For your weight, possibly a slightly wider rim with a 25-28mm tire might be a better choice for comfort? I weigh about 240 and a 23mm tire gave me too much "road buzz" to my hands at the pressure I had to use. I use a 25mm tire (marked 26mm but measures 25) and it reduced the "buzz" noticeably.
    You have to make sure they will fit your bike however. Some bikes have clearance issues at one spot or another.

    The next issue is how much do you want to spend?
    Using the Sun rims (32 hole), DB spokes, Velox rim tape and low end Shimano hubs, my parts were in the $150-160 range for the set.
    I recommend a more "mid range" hub for a few $ more. You may want a bit better rim also. I'm simply too ignorant about all the suitable rims out there. I've built about 10 wheels, but the goal was a lower cost "meat & potatoes" type rim.
    3 of the builds used a Shimano HB-RM30 MB/hybrid rear hub because it was on about $20. One of them had a bearing cone "chip" for no apparent reason. Any new builds will use a better hub. I assume your rear spacing is 130mm which would use a "road" hub. I think the cheapest I would use would be Tiagara quality. Considering the overall cost, 105 quality or better would make sense to me.
    Just my opinion.

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    Catching Smallmouth BradH's Avatar
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    Bill,

    I've recently built three sets of wheels using the Tiagra hubs. I'm impressed. I have Ultegra and 105 on other wheelsets. If you poke around online you can get some great deals on new Tiagra hubs. As with all new or used hubs I build a wheel on, I've taken to greasing them and adjusting the cones.

    A wheel I've used twice now is the Sun Assault 32h. Eyelets on the spoke holes and well machined brake tracks. About $50 a pair shipped on the auction site.

    I've used Sapim Race (.50 each) and Laser (.80 each) spokes but the straight 2.00mm Leader (.30 each) would be a more affordable option to bring down the cost.

    All in with rims, tape, nipples and spokes around $150ish.

    I was 220 and change, now down to 200 even. I have had zero issues with the sets I built this way.
    Last edited by BradH; 07-18-14 at 01:33 PM. Reason: spelling
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradH View Post
    Bill,

    I've recently built three sets of wheels using the Tiagra hubs. I'm impressed. I have Ultegra and 105 on other wheelsets. If you poke around online you can get some great deals on new Tiagra hubs. As with all new or used hubs I build a wheel on, I've taken to greasing them and adjusting the cones.

    A wheel I've used twice now is the Sun Assault 32h. Eyelets on the spoke holes and well machined brake tracks. About $50 a pair shipped on the auction site.

    I've used Sapim Race (.50 each) and Laser (.80 each) spokes but the straight 2.00mm Leader (.30 each) would be a more affordable option to bring down the coat.

    All in with rims, tape, nipples and spokes around $150ish.

    I was 220 and change, now down to 200 even. I have had zero issues with the sets I built this way.
    $150 for a set would be great!

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    $150 was just parts. I also have a spoke tension meter, spoke wrench and a dish gage I purchased. Truing stand is a flopped over flat bar Binachi with cut off zip ties mounted at strategic locations. I have a dial indicator I could stick on there but zip ties are fast and accurate. I've built a set of wheels for every bike I ride now so the investment in tools has been worth it.

    Another note on the Sun Assault rims. Use thin rim strips to ease tire mounting.
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    Ok this thread has me wondering.
    I noticed my spokes ping when I take off from a stand still. Its a single ping, and then that's it. Is this something that needs to be looked at, or just expected with our weight.
    I am 215 lbs and heading north. My wheels are Mavic Aksium.
    Thanks,

    Allan

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    Alright, get this. The shop owner was out so the young wrench is there, I tell him I am looking to upgrade and would like something with a few more spokes to be able to support my weight better. And he says"all bikes are made to support my weight and spoke count doesn't matter" should I run fast away or go back tomorrow when the owner is in? I am so frustrated at this point. Bought this bike may 1st along with a bike for my wife, she had never ridden it lol I just wasn't too return them both, she has 0 miles on hers and I have roughly 50. Would I be out of line to request a full refund?

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