New Clyde. Southern Tier NY. Questions on Upgrading? Is it worth it?
07-09-14, 09:36 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
New Clyde. Southern Tier NY. Questions on Upgrading? Is it worth it?
Hi,
I am a new member from Binghamton, NY. I weigh about 235lbs. I have wanted to start riding for quite some time and was lucky to recieve this old KHS Gran Sport as a gift. I have a few questions to ask due to the unique requirements of us Clydes.
(Suntour Five speed and stem shifters. not sure tooth on crank. will post later)
1. Steel is stronger: My local LBS says I will need 300 - 400 to upgrade my components and really enjoy this bike. ( I enjoy it now). 5 Speed kind of hard in these mountains though. Are they right. (I want to ride thise beast until I can afford a proper steel beauty (Kona, Surly, Merci, Bianchi, etc.
2. I have no idea were to start to even piece together a home built group set for this bike.
3. I do ride hard and I love it. Are they any immediate concerns I should worry about.
4. My goals are to work up to some sustained 40 - 50 mile rides and possibly start some club riding maybe some local cyclosportives. Who knows maybe racing if that is something a 30 something can get into. Currently riding 10 - 15 miles a day.
Thanks.
I am a new member from Binghamton, NY. I weigh about 235lbs. I have wanted to start riding for quite some time and was lucky to recieve this old KHS Gran Sport as a gift. I have a few questions to ask due to the unique requirements of us Clydes.
1. Steel is stronger: My local LBS says I will need 300 - 400 to upgrade my components and really enjoy this bike. ( I enjoy it now). 5 Speed kind of hard in these mountains though. Are they right. (I want to ride thise beast until I can afford a proper steel beauty (Kona, Surly, Merci, Bianchi, etc.
2. I have no idea were to start to even piece together a home built group set for this bike.
3. I do ride hard and I love it. Are they any immediate concerns I should worry about.
4. My goals are to work up to some sustained 40 - 50 mile rides and possibly start some club riding maybe some local cyclosportives. Who knows maybe racing if that is something a 30 something can get into. Currently riding 10 - 15 miles a day.
Thanks.
07-09-14, 10:07 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,700
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
4 Posts
Well, it appears your LBS is wrong. You're already enjoying the bike.
I'd say ride it for a while, learn what you like and what you don't like, save your money, then spend. Or not, depending on what you learn.
FWIW, upgrades tend to give you less bang for the buck than a new bike - which you already seem to have figured out.
I'd say ride it for a while, learn what you like and what you don't like, save your money, then spend. Or not, depending on what you learn.
FWIW, upgrades tend to give you less bang for the buck than a new bike - which you already seem to have figured out.
07-09-14, 10:42 PM
#3
Senior Member
It's a beautiful bike!
You may want to lower the gearing.
I would suggest posting in the Classic & Vintage to get a true appreciation of what a marvelous machine you have the pleasure of... As well as cost effective enhancements, though save your original parts.
You may want to lower the gearing.
I would suggest posting in the Classic & Vintage to get a true appreciation of what a marvelous machine you have the pleasure of... As well as cost effective enhancements, though save your original parts.
07-10-14, 12:01 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Endicott, NY
Posts: 385
Bikes: Electra Loft 7i, Fuji Crosstown 2.5, Gravity Liberty FB, Schwinn Voyageur
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 57 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
* Waving from Endicott *
Sounds like you've already got it figured out- ride it until you can afford what you want.
I'm thinking about joining the STBC, maybe I'll see you around.
Sounds like you've already got it figured out- ride it until you can afford what you want.
I'm thinking about joining the STBC, maybe I'll see you around.
07-10-14, 04:54 AM
#5
Still learning
As others have stated, ignore the LBS and enjoy your saddle time on the KHS. It is probably about 35 years old and an entry level bike with a high tensile frame and fork. The claw rear derailleur, suicide shifters and the turkey wing brakes are the identifiers. I would keep the bike in good riding condition with proper lubrication and cables tuned.
There are plenty of great deals in central NY State that for an outlay of $75-$250, you can pick up excellent used bikes.
There are plenty of great deals in central NY State that for an outlay of $75-$250, you can pick up excellent used bikes.
07-10-14, 08:00 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Denver, CO - City Park
Posts: 247
Bikes: Fuji, Ridley, Bianchi, Charge
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I agree with all of the above. Enjoy it like it is. Save your money for what you want and your LBS, ignore them. I have an old 1980's bike that I love to take out and ride and it is still 1980's components. Just ride 
07-10-14, 08:35 AM
#7
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toronto
Posts: 591
Bikes: Fiori Roma, Currently building a Bianchi, Trek 330, formerly Monshee Nomad, Favorit, Bianchi Sport SX, Frankenbike
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Is it a 5 speed or a 10? Looks to be a 10 speed, if you aren't using both chainrings on the crank, could be a simple fix.
Looks to be a fairly big sprocket on the back, if you are having issues climbing with this, when you are on the smaller chainring upfront, then you need to a) get in better shape or b) get a bike with a front triple. You could convert to a triple on that bike, but it may not be worth it.
Looks to be a fairly big sprocket on the back, if you are having issues climbing with this, when you are on the smaller chainring upfront, then you need to a) get in better shape or b) get a bike with a front triple. You could convert to a triple on that bike, but it may not be worth it.
07-10-14, 09:14 AM
#8
The Improbable Bulk
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA
Posts: 8,379
Bikes: Many
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
You don't need to spend $400... much less will get you some better climbing combinations.
The number of speeds doesn't necessarily make climbing any easier, as long as you get as low as you can. The extra gears from an upgrade usually make it easier to fill in the gaps.
A couple of things you can try are to get a Mega-range freewheel for lower lows. You may be able to use a 6 speed freewheel as well.
Also, with a little work/expense, you could swap the crank for a 110 mm BCD model and use smaller chain rings. Even though it wasn't a standard for the bikes from that era, a 110mm BCD crank allows you to use a 50/34 compact double configuration... possible without even replacing the BB, just swap the crank/rings and lower the FD a bit. I have done this on one of my vintage bikes.
Both of these mods require special (but inexpensive) tools (the proper freewheel remover, and a crank puller), but these are things you should have on hand if you want to do your own work anyway.
The number of speeds doesn't necessarily make climbing any easier, as long as you get as low as you can. The extra gears from an upgrade usually make it easier to fill in the gaps.
A couple of things you can try are to get a Mega-range freewheel for lower lows. You may be able to use a 6 speed freewheel as well.
Also, with a little work/expense, you could swap the crank for a 110 mm BCD model and use smaller chain rings. Even though it wasn't a standard for the bikes from that era, a 110mm BCD crank allows you to use a 50/34 compact double configuration... possible without even replacing the BB, just swap the crank/rings and lower the FD a bit. I have done this on one of my vintage bikes.
Both of these mods require special (but inexpensive) tools (the proper freewheel remover, and a crank puller), but these are things you should have on hand if you want to do your own work anyway.
__________________
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
07-10-14, 09:19 AM
#9
The Improbable Bulk
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA
Posts: 8,379
Bikes: Many
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
One other thing... Unless you are doing cyclocross, or off-road riding, you will get a performance boost by getting some slicker tires. That is probably your best bang for the buck to start with.
__________________
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
07-10-14, 09:49 AM
#10
Senior Member
Frames that old aren't worth upgrading, in my opinion. You'll have to work through the compatibility issues and hassles (ex: cold setting the frame so you can install a new wheel that will work with a more modern drivetrain) and in the end you've sunk a bunch of money into a skinny-tubed steel frame that's going to flex a lot more than a modern frame. I would enjoy the bike in its current form and start saving for a new(er) bike.
07-10-14, 05:04 PM
#11
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Is it a 5 speed or a 10? Looks to be a 10 speed, if you aren't using both chainrings on the crank, could be a simple fix.
Looks to be a fairly big sprocket on the back, if you are having issues climbing with this, when you are on the smaller chainring upfront, then you need to a) get in better shape or b) get a bike with a front triple. You could convert to a triple on that bike, but it may not be worth it.
Looks to be a fairly big sprocket on the back, if you are having issues climbing with this, when you are on the smaller chainring upfront, then you need to a) get in better shape or b) get a bike with a front triple. You could convert to a triple on that bike, but it may not be worth it.
You don't need to spend $400... much less will get you some better climbing combinations.
The number of speeds doesn't necessarily make climbing any easier, as long as you get as low as you can. The extra gears from an upgrade usually make it easier to fill in the gaps.
A couple of things you can try are to get a Mega-range freewheel for lower lows. You may be able to use a 6 speed freewheel as well.
Also, with a little work/expense, you could swap the crank for a 110 mm BCD model and use smaller chain rings. Even though it wasn't a standard for the bikes from that era, a 110mm BCD crank allows you to use a 50/34 compact double configuration... possible without even replacing the BB, just swap the crank/rings and lower the FD a bit. I have done this on one of my vintage bikes.
Both of these mods require special (but inexpensive) tools (the proper freewheel remover, and a crank puller), but these are things you should have on hand if you want to do your own work anyway.
The number of speeds doesn't necessarily make climbing any easier, as long as you get as low as you can. The extra gears from an upgrade usually make it easier to fill in the gaps.
A couple of things you can try are to get a Mega-range freewheel for lower lows. You may be able to use a 6 speed freewheel as well.
Also, with a little work/expense, you could swap the crank for a 110 mm BCD model and use smaller chain rings. Even though it wasn't a standard for the bikes from that era, a 110mm BCD crank allows you to use a 50/34 compact double configuration... possible without even replacing the BB, just swap the crank/rings and lower the FD a bit. I have done this on one of my vintage bikes.
Both of these mods require special (but inexpensive) tools (the proper freewheel remover, and a crank puller), but these are things you should have on hand if you want to do your own work anyway.
Frames that old aren't worth upgrading, in my opinion. You'll have to work through the compatibility issues and hassles (ex: cold setting the frame so you can install a new wheel that will work with a more modern drivetrain) and in the end you've sunk a bunch of money into a skinny-tubed steel frame that's going to flex a lot more than a modern frame. I would enjoy the bike in its current form and start saving for a new(er) bike.
To all. I appreciate all the help and time taken out of your day to help.
07-10-14, 06:56 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 2,896
Bikes: Workcycles FR8, 2016 Jamis Coda Comp, 2008 Surly Long Haul Trucker
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
I lived in Binghamton for years. I am not sure where you live (I used to live on Conklin ave just a few blocks from the Washington St. Bridge), but I think your gearing should be okay for a majority of the riding.
There are some good bike shops in the Tri-city area. The best in my opinion is Chenango Point Cycles with Babcock Bicycles in Endicott a close second. Talk to both shops about whether or not it would be cost effective to upgrade the bike. But if you enjoy the bike just keep riding.
If you do go shopping for something you should look at Aero's cycles & Babcock's since they both sell used bikes. Aero's probably wouldn't be much better than what you have now but Babcock's usually has some quality used bikes (they don't always keep them on the showroom floor).
The major thing I worried about while riding was getting flats but that was solved by getting better tires. I have broken some spokes before but after getting the spokes replaced and tire trued I didn't have a problem since.
There are some good bike shops in the Tri-city area. The best in my opinion is Chenango Point Cycles with Babcock Bicycles in Endicott a close second. Talk to both shops about whether or not it would be cost effective to upgrade the bike. But if you enjoy the bike just keep riding.
If you do go shopping for something you should look at Aero's cycles & Babcock's since they both sell used bikes. Aero's probably wouldn't be much better than what you have now but Babcock's usually has some quality used bikes (they don't always keep them on the showroom floor).
The major thing I worried about while riding was getting flats but that was solved by getting better tires. I have broken some spokes before but after getting the spokes replaced and tire trued I didn't have a problem since.
07-11-14, 08:58 PM
#13
Senior Member
My favorite ride is my old Peugeot. Its kinda fun on group rides to easily zip by others and suddenly be in the front with the "fast guys" on an older machine.
Give some attention to ALL the bearings. It probably has the original grease that has dried out and doesnt do much lubrication anymore. That alone will make the ride so much better. Then get some better tires. Good road tires will roll easier and probably handle better than your present ones.
Number of speeds is the number of gears on the rear wheel x the number of gears on the crank. Yours looks like a typical 10 speed, but I didnt scrutinize the small pic to count the rear cogs.
Have fun with your bike. learn its limitations and use that for your next purchase.
-SP
Give some attention to ALL the bearings. It probably has the original grease that has dried out and doesnt do much lubrication anymore. That alone will make the ride so much better. Then get some better tires. Good road tires will roll easier and probably handle better than your present ones.
Number of speeds is the number of gears on the rear wheel x the number of gears on the crank. Yours looks like a typical 10 speed, but I didnt scrutinize the small pic to count the rear cogs.
Have fun with your bike. learn its limitations and use that for your next purchase.
-SP
