Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Commuting
Reload this Page >

Help! I keep crashing due to cracks in the road!

Search
Notices
Commuting Bicycle commuting is easier than you think, before you know it, you'll be hooked. Learn the tips, hints, equipment, safety requirements for safely riding your bike to work.

Help! I keep crashing due to cracks in the road!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-20-15, 01:27 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA (for now)
Posts: 5

Bikes: Lemond Alpe D'Huez, 1978 Schwinn Collegiate (Women's), 1973 Fuji SJ-10

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Help! I keep crashing due to cracks in the road!

So I've been commuting to work for almost a year now, and just generally commuting around town, and I've had two crashes in the last few months. One was due to some train tracks, and this morning was due to a big crack in the pavement that my wheel got caught in. I've also avoided many other crashes of this nature, thank goodness. Luckily I'm not badly hurt (knee's a little bruised up and lost some skin on my hands) but I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong. Granted I ride a road bike - 90's Bianchi with 700x23 tires - perhaps this is just too small a tire for around town but I see so many other people on similar bikes and they don't seem to have a problem. Lately I've been incredibly vigilant about the cracks, making sure to take them at an angle, but this morning I went a slightly different direction than I normally take and didn't see the crack until it was too late. The worst part is that I saw it coming, tried to jump down off the bike but still ended up face first on the ground.

So my question is - what do I do differently? Do I just need a different bike, are there strategies for what to do when you get stuck in a crack to better help you recover or just keep from totally crashing? I will never stop riding but I'd really like to stop hurting myself.
smills518 is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 01:35 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
caloso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posts: 40,865

Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur

Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2952 Post(s)
Liked 3,106 Times in 1,417 Posts
If you mean cracks running parallel to the direction of travel, you really have to avoid those. Wider tires help to some extent, but not much; you're safer to stay away from them altogether. If you do get to a point where you think you might get caught, you have to get over it. If you can bunnyhop, one thing to try is a lateral hop. You don't have to get very high or scoot very far, it's mostly about unweighting the bike as you move over it. But that's kind of an advanced technique. You're really better off looking way down the road and avoiding the situation totally.
caloso is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 01:39 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
andr0id's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,522
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1422 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by caloso
You're really better off looking way down the road and avoiding the situation totally.
This is best.

RR tracks should be crossed at a 90 degree angle. If the tracks are not perpendicular to the road, you'll want to get set up in advance to cut across them.
andr0id is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 01:45 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
himespau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,445
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4233 Post(s)
Liked 2,948 Times in 1,807 Posts
A few years back I came to a corner in Boston shortly after someone got their wheel caught in tracks going parallel to them and went under the rear wheels of a bus going around the corner at the same time. That **** scares me now.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?), 1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"





himespau is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 01:47 PM
  #5  
Keep on climbing
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Marlborough, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,193

Bikes: 2004 Calfee Tetra Pro

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
The standard advice on railroad tracks is to take them perpendicularly. With tracks that are angled across the road this can involve some steering across the lane to approach them correctly.

A few general tips if you have to hit a crack, pothole or whatever:
  • Get your butt off the saddle. I find a looser grip on the handlebars works well too. The bike will probably bounce around a bit; you don't want your mass to go with it. You outweigh the bike; it will come back under you.
  • Learn to bunny hop. Going over an obstacle can work really well, especially when it comes to deep potholes.
  • Don't stare at obstacles; you subconsciously steer where you're looking. So look at where you want to go --i.e., around the cracks, potholes, etc. 700x23 tires are pretty narrow -- you need less than one inch of reasonably smooth pavement to make it through.
  • Momentum can be your friend.
KevinF is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 01:49 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Puget Sound
Posts: 1,982

Bikes: 2007 Rocky Mountain Sherpa 30 (bionx), 2015 Cannondale Synapse Carbon Ultegra

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 141 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 6 Posts
I'm afraid of the very same thing if I'm riding on unfamiliar roads. In those situations I keep my speed down so I have a bit more time to react. I've been riding a scooter lately and it has wider tires than any bike except a fat bike... I've hit a few things in the road that have put a good scare into me - luckily I didn't go down. I mentioned this danger in the electric bike threads to a rider that built an electric bike that will go 40+ mph. Reducing speed is probably the most important thing to avoid an accident... other than staying on roads and routes that are familiar and you know where the dangers are.
InTheRain is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 01:50 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 153
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Sorry for the painfully obvious response... but maybe you need to pay more attention to the road if you're going to be riding a road bike?

The road surface and other road users are your primary concerns.

As caloso said, a slightly more advanced technique is hopping laterally over those pesky parallel-to-your-direction-of-travel cracks, but rarely do I find that necessary unless I was daydreaming on roads I don't regularly ride.

Hope you can learn to better read the road surface and avoid those avoidable crashes.
Hugh Morris is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 01:58 PM
  #8  
bill nyecycles
 
the sci guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 3,328
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 789 Post(s)
Liked 350 Times in 190 Posts
you need a

__________________
Twitter@theSurlyBiker
Instagram @yankee.velo.foxtrot
the sci guy is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 02:16 PM
  #9  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA (for now)
Posts: 5

Bikes: Lemond Alpe D'Huez, 1978 Schwinn Collegiate (Women's), 1973 Fuji SJ-10

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
So much great tactical advice here... thank you!!!
smills518 is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 02:27 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Andy_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,744

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 525 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3230 Post(s)
Liked 3,868 Times in 1,439 Posts
Be careful out there.

__________________
My Bikes
Andy_K is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 02:28 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mooresville, NC (Charlotte suburb)
Posts: 2,306

Bikes: Cannondale Synapse, Trek 5000 TCT, Giant OCR

Mentioned: 43 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 255 Post(s)
Liked 22 Times in 18 Posts
If you ride a road or route enough times, you will learn where the blemishes are and options for avoiding them. If something is not avoidable, slow down, drag a foot, or even walk across.
mgw4jc is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 03:02 PM
  #12  
always rides with luggage
 
bigbenaugust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: KIGX
Posts: 2,109

Bikes: 2007 Trek SU100, 2009 Fantom CX, 2012 Fantom Cross Uno, Bakfiets

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 273 Post(s)
Liked 20 Times in 17 Posts
Also, tires. 25s or 28s may make a difference in your life if they fit.
__________________
--Ben
2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
Non-Bike hardware: MX Linux / BunsenLabs Linux / Raspbian / Mac OS 10.6 / Android 7
bigbenaugust is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 03:17 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
jetboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 2,885

Bikes: centurion cinelli equipe, look hinault 753, Zunow z-1, 83 stumpy sport

Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 814 Post(s)
Liked 331 Times in 186 Posts
sadly hyper vigilance is your best friend: but as above- humans have target fixation hard wired in: you will try and hit what you are looking at. so you Don't want to be looking at every branch, crack, rock etc that might be in your path. If you stare at the trolly rut, you will fall into it every time.

So to avoid obstacles you have to not look at them. sounds hard right? but its really just training yourself to target on open/clean road so that the target fixation works for you in avoiding obstacles. there is no reason to even identify full what the obstacle is- just be aware and look to the open space.

This is an essential tool in motorcycling as well- where the speeds and dangers can come even faster. (and kill you quicker)

Last edited by jetboy; 05-20-15 at 03:22 PM.
jetboy is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 03:45 PM
  #14  
meh
 
Hypno Toad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Hopkins, MN
Posts: 4,704

Bikes: 23 Cutthroat, 21 CoMotion Java; 21 Bianchi Infinito; 15 Surly Pugsley; 11 Globe Daily; 09 Kona Dew Drop; 96 Mondonico

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1110 Post(s)
Liked 1,013 Times in 519 Posts
Originally Posted by smills518
So I've been commuting to work for almost a year now, and just generally commuting around town, and I've had two crashes in the last few months. One was due to some train tracks, and this morning was due to a big crack in the pavement that my wheel got caught in. I've also avoided many other crashes of this nature, thank goodness. Luckily I'm not badly hurt (knee's a little bruised up and lost some skin on my hands) but I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong. Granted I ride a road bike - 90's Bianchi with 700x23 tires - perhaps this is just too small a tire for around town but I see so many other people on similar bikes and they don't seem to have a problem. Lately I've been incredibly vigilant about the cracks, making sure to take them at an angle, but this morning I went a slightly different direction than I normally take and didn't see the crack until it was too late. The worst part is that I saw it coming, tried to jump down off the bike but still ended up face first on the ground.

So my question is - what do I do differently? Do I just need a different bike, are there strategies for what to do when you get stuck in a crack to better help you recover or just keep from totally crashing? I will never stop riding but I'd really like to stop hurting myself.
Death Valley. Scares the poo outa me. Never had a problem... but I know the pain it can create. My normal commuter bikes have 28c tires, but that still thin enough to fall into cracks. As others have said, keep your eyes up the road to avoid the cracks. But they do sneak up on you for a variety of reasons. My first reaction in that situation is to un-weight the front wheel, you don't need to do a wheelie, just keep the weight off so the wheel will get over without sinking in. If you're in the crack, you don't have a lot of options - follow the crack, slow down, and easy out of the crack.

Talking about tracks taking you down... My college-age daughter was in front of me crossing some tracks at an angle, she got her wheel stuck and went down. Funny part, it happened slowly and she rolled through the fall, ending up on her back with arms and legs in the air. This is now know has her possum pose.
Hypno Toad is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 03:59 PM
  #15  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA (for now)
Posts: 5

Bikes: Lemond Alpe D'Huez, 1978 Schwinn Collegiate (Women's), 1973 Fuji SJ-10

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I think looking at the cracks is a big problem of mine .... I see them coming... I've gotten caught in them many times so I instantly get scared... I stare at them harder to try to miss them and end up doing exactly the opposite.
smills518 is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 05:33 PM
  #16  
Member
 
SkvLTD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: MD, US
Posts: 26

Bikes: 1993 Raleigh SP 2000

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Being fresh on bigger wheels, I'm used to longboarding and rollerblading, so parallel cracks that are normally nothing to a bike still freak me out a bit, thus if you're going down unfamiliar road, 120% attention and such. See a crack, weave sideways or slow down. I didn't know how well my bike would cross tram tracks, so I slowed down enough to try to be safe.
SkvLTD is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 05:49 PM
  #17  
RR3
Banned
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,226
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Put it in the 53x11 and bunny hop them
RR3 is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 05:53 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
bikemig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435

Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones

Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times in 2,079 Posts
I like fatter tires (certainly fatter than 23c) for commuting as you can't always pick your line with traffic. Your wheels will hold up better as well.

Train tracks can be dangerous esp. when wet.
bikemig is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 06:00 PM
  #19  
That Huffy Guy
 
Johnny Mullet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,438

Bikes: Old School Huffy Bikes

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 79 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
For commuting, you need wider tires or another bike with wider tires, I have some rough road commuting and some smooth road, but I run 700X35c tires on my commuter. Anything smaller goes flat or loses control. Sometimes I prefer to take the 26er MTB to work just for the comfort because I am not in a hurry.
Johnny Mullet is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 06:16 PM
  #20  
working on my sandal tan
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,629

Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)

Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3871 Post(s)
Liked 2,568 Times in 1,579 Posts
Getting my 25mm tires caught in freshly-sawed (but not yet sealed) pavement on RAGBRAI 5 years ago, crashing helplessly on my side, and then going to the hospital with a dislocated thumb and partially-separated AC joint got me thinking about wider tires very quickly. For a time, none of my bikes had tires narrower than 30mm, but I've since gotten comfortable with 28mm tires. I will always be hyper-vigilant about pavement cracks, though.
__________________
Originally Posted by chandltp
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 06:49 PM
  #21  
Senior Member
 
john4789's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 437

Bikes: Surly Steamroller FG, Trek 800 SS MTB, Omega Tandem Sport

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 2 Posts
stop doing that.
john4789 is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 07:01 PM
  #22  
Senior Member
 
Dave Cutter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: D'uh... I am a Cutter
Posts: 6,139

Bikes: '17 Access Old Turnpike Gravel bike, '14 Trek 1.1, '13 Cannondale CAAD 10, '98 CAD 2, R300

Mentioned: 62 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1571 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times in 9 Posts
The occasional accident will happen. Two the first year of cycling doesn't sound so awful. Actually sounds kinda normal.

Originally Posted by smills518
I think looking at the cracks is a big problem of mine .... I see them coming... I've gotten caught in them many times so I instantly get scared... I stare at them harder to try to miss them and end up doing exactly the opposite.
Your bicycle will follow your eye. Look at the escape route.... NOT at the obstacle you want to avoid.
Dave Cutter is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 08:08 PM
  #23  
Tortoise Wins by a Hare!
 
AlmostTrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Looney Tunes, IL
Posts: 7,398

Bikes: Wabi Special FG, Raleigh Roper, Nashbar AL-1, Miyata One Hundred, '70 Schwinn Lemonator and More!!

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1549 Post(s)
Liked 941 Times in 504 Posts
Originally Posted by smills518
I think looking at the cracks is a big problem of mine .... I see them coming... I've gotten caught in them many times so I instantly get scared... I stare at them harder to try to miss them and end up doing exactly the opposite.
Get out to an open lot and practice some bike handling skills. The "rock dodge" is particularly helpful for getting around stuff at the last second. Set up a paper cup or something and go for it.

Bicycling Street Smarts, Chapter 5: Steering Out of Trouble

You need to practice this stuff and get comfortable with it. Being scared sets you up for trouble.

Last edited by AlmostTrick; 05-20-15 at 08:16 PM.
AlmostTrick is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 08:58 PM
  #24  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 153
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
That's a cool article. Pretty on point- but I think any bike with any pedals can be jumped over an obstruction assuming it's sturdy enough to withstand the landing (and the rider understands how to rotate the pedals and pull up on them). Don't see the point in limiting it to clipped in feet??? I've hopped significant potholes on my touring bike from the spd side of platform/spd pedals in sneakers. not comfy on the arch of the foot, but better than pinch flatting or worse in a pothole.

Love the "rock dodge", that move is used countless times daily.
Hugh Morris is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 09:54 PM
  #25  
Senior Member
 
Shahmatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Singapore
Posts: 473

Bikes: Cruzbike Flamingo folding conversion, Oyama East Village

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Wide wide tyres. It's not just the width that will help, but the lower pressure as well.
Shahmatt is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.