Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Commuting
Reload this Page >

Build or buy?

Search
Notices
Commuting Bicycle commuting is easier than you think, before you know it, you'll be hooked. Learn the tips, hints, equipment, safety requirements for safely riding your bike to work.

Build or buy?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-20-15, 05:46 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 571
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Build or buy?

I have a spare wheelset lying around. It has a Campy cassette body but from what I've read, both Shimano and Campy shifters work well enough with Campy 9 speed cassettes.

So I was thinking - which would be cheaper?

a) Build a cheap 9 speed commuter with the wheelset I have already. I would need a frame, components, etc. Basically everything but the wheels.

b) Buy a complete commuter bike? I'm looking for something with gears. I find myself shifting frequently when commuting. It just makes things faster. Any recs for cheap commuter bikes? I like drop bars too btw; I used to ride a flat-bar bike and after going to drop bars I will never go back.
Deontologist is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 07:18 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
bmthom.gis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 2,977

Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 4 Rival; 2014 Cannondale Trail 7 29; 1972 Schwinn Suburban, 1996 Proflex 756, 1987(?) Peugeot, Dahon Speed P8; 1979 Raleigh Competition GS; 1995 Stumpjumper M2 FS, 1978 Raleigh Sports, Schwinn Prologue

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Jit will be less expensive to buy a full bike than everything but the wheels. OTOH I find building a bike infinitely more enjoyable than buying one
bmthom.gis is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 07:40 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Andy_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,750

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 525 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3234 Post(s)
Liked 3,882 Times in 1,442 Posts
I'm not sure about your information on Campy/Shimano compatibility. There are some combinations you can mix and match, but I don't think 9-9 works.

Check this link for details: Rear Shifting | CTC
__________________
My Bikes
Andy_K is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 10:48 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
matimeo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 808

Bikes: It's the motor, not the bike, right?

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked 16 Times in 13 Posts
Building always ends up costing more than you think. Buy something online and reassemble it yourself. Best of both worlds.
matimeo is offline  
Old 05-20-15, 11:30 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
cale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,248

Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
If you have a strong vision of what you want to build, going that route can be truly satisfying. Saying that building a bike is more expensive than buying one when discussing among raving lunatic bike enthusiasts doesn't really do justice to the full extent of the bike buying, accumulating, lusting, and ultimately satisfying-side of cycling. Tell me where to send the fistful of dollars to stop the obsession. Haha
cale is offline  
Old 05-21-15, 05:51 AM
  #6  
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times in 339 Posts
It's almost always cheaper to buy a complete new bike than to build a complete bike from new parts. When you add existing parts to the mix, the math changes. The cheapest thing is usually to buy two used bikes, one of which might have the components you want and the other having the frame you want, and build the bike you want from that. Build another bike with the rest and sell it.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
rhm is offline  
Old 05-21-15, 06:41 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
wphamilton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 15,280

Bikes: Nashbar Road

Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2934 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times in 228 Posts
Adding to what Rhm said, which is all spot on IMO, it is possible to build the bike cheaper if you leave some functionality off, given that you already have the wheels. I built mine for $310, including about $40 extra for the carbon fiber fork, BUT it was a 1x8 configuration with a downtube shifter. Adding brifters later along with the DR and crankset the total was more than buying a new bike with better components.

The upside is having less cost up front, and where you cut cost or go a little better is based on your own decision and not whatever was cheapest for whoever made the bike.
wphamilton is offline  
Old 05-21-15, 07:45 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
bmthom.gis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 2,977

Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 4 Rival; 2014 Cannondale Trail 7 29; 1972 Schwinn Suburban, 1996 Proflex 756, 1987(?) Peugeot, Dahon Speed P8; 1979 Raleigh Competition GS; 1995 Stumpjumper M2 FS, 1978 Raleigh Sports, Schwinn Prologue

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
I'll echo that if you have some parts hanging around, go for it. But if you have to buy a whole drivetrain, expect that to cost you a pretty penny. Some of the discount UK sites will have pretty good prices and free shipping if you want to go Shimano. I'm a little confused though by what you mean when you say a Campy cassette body. Are you saying you have a wheel with a campy cassette and freehub body? What hubs do you have in the wheels - can you get a shimano freehub body? They aren't terribly expensive.
bmthom.gis is offline  
Old 05-21-15, 04:14 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
rmfnla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: La La Land (We love it!)
Posts: 6,301

Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 273 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Building a bike is rarely cheaper unless you already own lots of parts...
__________________
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
rmfnla is offline  
Old 05-21-15, 07:22 PM
  #10  
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NA
Posts: 4,267

Bikes: NA

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
I disagree that a new bike is always cheaper.

Cost of parts for a re-build I did a few years ago (bike was a 105 triple, 9 speed, non-disc):

Ultegra 6705 crank: $110
6700 rear derailleur: $60
6700 front derailler: $45
10 speed chain: $11
Ultegra flat-bar shifters (R770): $90
XT disc brake: $50
1600 gm easton disc wheelset: $300
Nashbar carbon disc fork: $100
Serfas 190 gm titanium rail saddle: $50
100 gm OEM stem: $50
Thomson elite post: $70
Easton carbon bar: $50
Tektro brake: $30.

(All parts were new but heavily discounted.)

I used an available frame but I could have easily bought a decent carbon frame for 500-600 (nashbar had a nice carbon disc frame for $600 recently)

Total cost of build: ~$1500 for a 19 lb carbon flat bar bike with front disc brakes.

Cost of the far heavier and 105-based carbon fiber cafe-centry pro at bikesdirect $1400:

Save up to 60% off new Hybrid Carbon Bicycles | Road Bikes Cafe Century PRO
spare_wheel is offline  
Old 05-21-15, 07:42 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
bikemig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,437

Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones

Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5891 Post(s)
Liked 3,475 Times in 2,080 Posts
Best bet for a commuter if you want to save money is to buy used.
bikemig is offline  
Old 05-21-15, 09:38 PM
  #12  
Keepin it Wheel
 
RubeRad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,260

Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,439 Times in 2,546 Posts
Cheapest: used bike off CL
Cheaper: build from used parts off eBay/CL, including your wheelset
Retail: new bike
Expensiver: build from new parts

Here's my experience: CrossCheck from REI: $1235.18. CrossCheck I built from eBay, locally handbuilt wheels, and a few parts I had: $1229.86. Savings $5.32.
RubeRad is offline  
Old 05-22-15, 09:01 AM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
jfowler85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Zinj
Posts: 1,826

Bikes: '93 911 Turbo 3.6

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Build it!! If you know where/how to shop for the parts, it's not difficult to stay within a budget that will put you well below what an equivalent new bike would cost. I've built 3 rigs for commuting since I started doing this and each has been pretty cheap. My latest build is a Devinci frame, carbon fork, 105/dura ace and got it all put together for around $600.

As the above poster has noted, you'll easily blow a budget on things like custom wheelsets, retail gruppos, and being too impatient to wait for sales/discounts. Give yourself some room to look for unsold stock from previous years, and check out sites like backcountry and sierra trading post. The more flexibility you have, the easier you'll find the process...my latest build took me from classic road geometry with tight clearances to compact with room for 40c studded tires and fenders. I didn't plan on that happening, but I saved bunches of cash and am able to experiment with something new, which I enjoy.

Last edited by jfowler85; 05-22-15 at 09:10 AM.
jfowler85 is offline  
Old 05-22-15, 09:05 AM
  #14  
Aspiring curmudgeon
 
icepick_trotsky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Saint Louis
Posts: 2,486

Bikes: Guerciotti, Serotta, Gaulzetti

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 111 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 26 Times in 13 Posts
Buy a bike and offset part of the cost by selling the wheels.
__________________
"Party on comrades" -- Lenin, probably
icepick_trotsky is offline  
Old 05-22-15, 09:19 AM
  #15  
Full Member
 
ratell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 438
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked 37 Times in 27 Posts
Anyone have experience with probikekit? They have a 105 groupset for less than $400 which could make building viable. The also have a set with wheels for around $800.
Shimano 105 5800 11 Speed Groupset - Black - 53/39 | ProBikeKit.com
ratell is offline  
Old 05-22-15, 09:36 AM
  #16  
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NA
Posts: 4,267

Bikes: NA

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by ratell
Anyone have experience with probikekit? They have a 105 groupset for less than $400 which could make building viable. The also have a set with wheels for around $800.
Shimano 105 5800 11 Speed Groupset - Black - 53/39 | ProBikeKit.com
Yes...they and merlin are one of my top sources for cheap shimano parts. (The 105 5700 groupset was available for a touch over $300 about a year ago, BTW.)
spare_wheel is offline  
Old 05-22-15, 10:53 AM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 102
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Or offset the whole cost....)
richietables is offline  
Old 05-22-15, 11:09 AM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
jfowler85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Zinj
Posts: 1,826

Bikes: '93 911 Turbo 3.6

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ratell
Anyone have experience with probikekit? They have a 105 groupset for less than $400 which could make building viable. The also have a set with wheels for around $800.
Shimano 105 5800 11 Speed Groupset - Black - 53/39 | ProBikeKit.com
PBK often runs first time buyer discounts...might want to google PBK coupon codes.
jfowler85 is offline  
Old 05-22-15, 11:38 AM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 968
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I'd say buy it. I'm usually of the build it camp but I would take a turn key bike and go out riding instead of spending that time building up the bike.
09box is offline  
Old 05-22-15, 11:54 AM
  #20  
Fork and spoon operator
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hopkins, Minnesota
Posts: 577

Bikes: 2013 Surly Crosscheck, 1990 Schwinn Impact, 1973 Schwinn Continental

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times in 7 Posts
Building is nice because you can skimp on things you don't care about, and splurge on the stuff you do. eBay is the greatest! But then again, I use a lot of cheap components.
PennyTheDog is offline  
Old 05-22-15, 12:09 PM
  #21  
Senior Member
 
snow_echo_NY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Montpelier VT
Posts: 855

Bikes: Scott Genius, Surly Crosscheck, Yuba Mundo cargo, Specialized Dolce Triple (stolen 5/8/15)

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
i also vote buy.

agree with you about drop bars.

good luck!
snow_echo_NY is offline  
Old 05-22-15, 12:45 PM
  #22  
Senior Member
 
Andy_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,750

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 525 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3234 Post(s)
Liked 3,882 Times in 1,442 Posts
Originally Posted by spare_wheel
I disagree that a new bike is always cheaper.

Cost of parts for a re-build I did a few years ago (bike was a 105 triple, 9 speed, non-disc)...
Total cost of build: ~$1500 for a 19 lb carbon flat bar bike with front disc brakes.
I agree with this and am going to use it as an excuse to spam a picture of my "newest" bike.



I had the wheelset, tires, crank (minus a chainring), chain, handlebars and pedals already. Everything else cost me $769.

Reynolds 853 steel frame
Carbon fork
105 (5700 series) shifters and derailleurs
105 (5800 series) brakes
Thomson Elite seatpost
Nitto Tecnomic stem
Specialized Phenom saddle

Not bad for under $800. I bought the frame and fork on craigslist with a few other parts included that I'll probably resell. I got the saddle used on CL. Everything else (except the part

Bikes Direct has a kind of comparable bike for $799 (Save Up To 60% Off Pro Level Steel Road Bikes | Commuting | Commuter Bikes | Motobecane Gran Premio PRO) but they cut corners where I indulged (520 steel; Tektro brakes; generic stem, saddle and seatpost; Claris hubs; entry-level FSA square taper crankset).

Even if I include the price I originally paid for the pieces I already had my build comes in at under $1250. I know that's a decent chunk of change for a bike, but for a bike of this quality I think it's a bargain.

The one caveat is that I'm not sure this type of plan scales effectively to more entry level bikes. It's harder to find lower end parts discounted as heavily as higher end parts. For instance, at Ribble Cycles (the UK website where I got a lot of my new parts) Tiagra and Sora shift levers are only a couple dollars (literally) cheaper than 5700-series 105 and even Claris shifters are only $20 cheaper.
__________________
My Bikes
Andy_K is offline  
Old 05-22-15, 12:55 PM
  #23  
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NA
Posts: 4,267

Bikes: NA

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by Andy_K
but they cut corners where I indulged (520 steel; Tektro brakes; generic stem, saddle and seatpost; Claris hubs; entry-level FSA square taper crankset).
Its fascinating how many fixate on the OEM drive train gruppo* (that is always available for 50-70% off at the usual bike sites) but not on the components that are most important for comfort/utility (e.g. the stem, bars, fork, seatpost, and saddle). And I strongly believe that no decent bike should ever be sold with a saddle.


*often with a crap crank and the cheapest chain and cassette money can buy snuck into the mix.
spare_wheel is offline  
Old 05-22-15, 02:21 PM
  #24  
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,513

Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem

Mentioned: 511 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7355 Post(s)
Liked 2,490 Times in 1,445 Posts
Originally Posted by Deontologist
It has a Campy cassette body but from what I've read, both Shimano and Campy shifters work well enough with Campy 9 speed cassettes.
No, it's much more complicated than that.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline  
Old 05-22-15, 04:37 PM
  #25  
Senior Member
 
Andy_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,750

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 525 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3234 Post(s)
Liked 3,882 Times in 1,442 Posts
Originally Posted by Deontologist
I have a spare wheelset lying around. It has a Campy cassette body...
It looks like you can get a Campy 10-speed groupset (crankset, bottom bracket, derailleurs, brakes, cassette and chain) from the various UK website for under $400. If you can find a decent frame (or possibly a used bike with crappy parts) for a good price, you can probably pull together the other bits you'd need to make it economical.
__________________
My Bikes
Andy_K is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.