Commuter Lights that stay out of driver's eyes!
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Cateye Volt 300 and 700 are the best commuter lights for me. Smart cut out shape to not blind anyone but to have full power concentrated where you need it.
Clever and strong attachment, easy to place on your bars or to remove (Can be used as a torchlight too).
Several modes and good illuminating power, I think theirs 6 modes 3 different blinking modes (Techno, Constant light plus flashing, quick interval flashing) and 3 power output settings.
Battery time, I get 3 hours on full power on my 700 + you can easily bring extra batteries.
Durable and light, I droped one in a river by accident (Still works like new).
Downside they are not the cheapest, but I still got 1 Volt 300 and 2 Volt 700
Clever and strong attachment, easy to place on your bars or to remove (Can be used as a torchlight too).
Several modes and good illuminating power, I think theirs 6 modes 3 different blinking modes (Techno, Constant light plus flashing, quick interval flashing) and 3 power output settings.
Battery time, I get 3 hours on full power on my 700 + you can easily bring extra batteries.
Durable and light, I droped one in a river by accident (Still works like new).
Downside they are not the cheapest, but I still got 1 Volt 300 and 2 Volt 700
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Cateye Volt 300 and 700 are the best commuter lights for me. Smart cut out shape to not blind anyone but to have full power concentrated where you need it.
Clever and strong attachment, easy to place on your bars or to remove (Can be used as a torchlight too).
Several modes and good illuminating power, I think theirs 6 modes 3 different blinking modes (Techno, Constant light plus flashing, quick interval flashing) and 3 power output settings.
Battery time, I get 3 hours on full power on my 700 + you can easily bring extra batteries.
Durable and light, I droped one in a river by accident (Still works like new).
Downside they are not the cheapest, but I still got 1 Volt 300 and 2 Volt 700
Clever and strong attachment, easy to place on your bars or to remove (Can be used as a torchlight too).
Several modes and good illuminating power, I think theirs 6 modes 3 different blinking modes (Techno, Constant light plus flashing, quick interval flashing) and 3 power output settings.
Battery time, I get 3 hours on full power on my 700 + you can easily bring extra batteries.
Durable and light, I droped one in a river by accident (Still works like new).
Downside they are not the cheapest, but I still got 1 Volt 300 and 2 Volt 700
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Its nothing less than an act of cowardice to compromise the safety of others for a feeling of security.
Last edited by kickstart; 07-28-15 at 09:30 PM.
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I was referring to the opposite, those few who use over the top lighting that is excessive for conditions other than full daylight, and/or when there are other vulnerable users in close proximity. If a road or MUT users attention is 100% focused on one cyclists megablaze lightning storm, they are much more likely to be less aware of or fail to notice others.
Its nothing less than an act of cowardice to compromise the safety of others for a feeling of security.
Its nothing less than an act of cowardice to compromise the safety of others for a feeling of security.
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Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
#30
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I'm all about over the top lighting. Wheellights, down low glow lights, blinkies, all good. I find it hard to believe that my lights far out power other car lights, esp the motorcycle ones. If the driver sees me, that's what I'm looking for. I love my helmet light for this purpose. And the meek shall be run over. Many times drivers have tried to pull out/ cut me off and then there is my helmet light. Then they see me. Works well. YRMV. Try riding a mile in my shoes in MA before criticizing me. I'm not about being rude or disrespectful to other bikers or MUP users or cars. Everyone is looking at their phone. Everyone. Try observing cars in traffic, you'll see. Not everyone cycles where drivers are nice or courteous.
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I'm all about over the top lighting. Wheellights, down low glow lights, blinkies, all good. I find it hard to believe that my lights far out power other car lights, esp the motorcycle ones. If the driver sees me, that's what I'm looking for. I love my helmet light for this purpose. And the meek shall be run over. Many times drivers have tried to pull out/ cut me off and then there is my helmet light. Then they see me. Works well. YRMV. Try riding a mile in my shoes in MA before criticizing me. I'm not about being rude or disrespectful to other bikers or MUP users or cars. Everyone is looking at their phone. Everyone. Try observing cars in traffic, you'll see. Not everyone cycles where drivers are nice or courteous.
I typically run two headlights and two tail lights, but I'm mindful of others and the environment in choosing how I do it.
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what is the most nerrow beam angle it produces?
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I don't want to blind car drivers because they may attack me for it. On a wide road it may not be a problem.
Note the magic shine lens on my D40A torch: it makes the light nerrower.
Note the magic shine lens on my D40A torch: it makes the light nerrower.
The reason I ride a bicycle and don't drive is that I am partially sighted. I had to stop driving at night a long time ago and stop altogether a year ago. I need more light at night to see. Not less. The diffuser lens on the MagicShine spreads the beam, not narrows it! There is no auxiliary lens that narrows a beam. Cyclists that worry about blinding oncoming drivers are way overestimating the issue. It is more likely to annoy oncoming cyclists or pedestrians. Yes, tilt the light down. But good luck with it staying that way. I don't overthink it. I run two MagicShines because they are good and bright and don't cost $1K for two.
Last edited by jawnn; 07-30-15 at 01:46 PM.
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Now don't be dense. Tilt the light down such that it is out of the driver's eyes but the road ahead is still visible. I thought that much was obvious. If the beam can reach a driver's eye level, and is bright enough to "blind" said driver, then it is bright enough and casts a beam far enough at that angle to be useful at distances greater than 30 feet.
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Now don't be dense. Tilt the light down such that it is out of the driver's eyes but the road ahead is still visible. I thought that much was obvious. If the beam can reach a driver's eye level, and is bright enough to "blind" said driver, then it is bright enough and casts a beam far enough at that angle to be useful at distances greater than 30 feet.
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I was referring to the opposite, those few who use over the top lighting that is excessive for conditions other than full daylight, and/or when there are other vulnerable users in close proximity. If a road or MUT users attention is 100% focused on one cyclists megablaze lightning storm, they are much more likely to be less aware of or fail to notice others.
Its nothing less than an act of cowardice to compromise the safety of others for a feeling of security.
Its nothing less than an act of cowardice to compromise the safety of others for a feeling of security.
Are you ok with motor vehicles having two lights each putting over 3,000 lumens? If so, what is the problem with say double the output of the proper German headlamp....let's say 460 lumens. Am I cowardly for needing 450 lumens when riding 20-22 mph at night?
BTW your safety argument is hilarious.
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best info yet...thanks.
I had drivers flashing their brigths into my eyes untill I adjusted my beams.
I had drivers flashing their brigths into my eyes untill I adjusted my beams.
You can find info on this light in the first 10 results from a google search, here it is:
REVIEW: Specialized Flux Expert Bicycle Headlight - Photo Intensive
Yes, it's a genuine cutoff. More accurately, it has a low beam / high beam like on a car, where the low beam is a cutoff and the high beam is not a cutoff (they turn on or off the center led to create this effect).
Unfortunately, I didn't find it as nice as I had hoped. It's an alright light. The light color it puts out I'd call "graveyard white" - visible for seeing the road but stark. It's a little brighter in the middle to give you more of a comfortable feel - but that causes a brighter spot that makes you eyes adjust and makes it not as good as a night light. So basically, having bought one myself, I was a little dissapointed. It does not match a high intensity output light like a Light And Motion taz for beam brightness. That's what I had really hoped for - a Taz with a genuine cutoff.
You didn't mention the Phillips Saferide, so far that's been the easiest light to recommend. Real cutoff, not as wide as the Ixon Iq Premium, but a smoother beam that is brighter on the road.
It's a lot harder to actually "blind" drivers on the road than it is to blind oncoming bikers on otherwise unlight bike trails at night (some of what I ride). Drivers windshields have slight tinting to avoid glare, they're an entire car lane over, and they always have their own lighting, plus usually have a lot of other lights (street lights, other cars). There's some debate on where the "annoyance" level is (I don't know), but to actually "blind" a driver you need a light brighter than the usual cheap chinese lights on ebay - or one with a really terrible beam pattern. I'm sure you can blind cars using a Niterider 3600 (3600 real lumens and a specifically wide angle lens), or "absurd high lumen count" lights.
But for cheap stuff on amazon, most likely the only people you can get worse than strongly annoying with them are oncoming bikers on bike trails at night (trails with no other lights).
REVIEW: Specialized Flux Expert Bicycle Headlight - Photo Intensive
Yes, it's a genuine cutoff. More accurately, it has a low beam / high beam like on a car, where the low beam is a cutoff and the high beam is not a cutoff (they turn on or off the center led to create this effect).
Unfortunately, I didn't find it as nice as I had hoped. It's an alright light. The light color it puts out I'd call "graveyard white" - visible for seeing the road but stark. It's a little brighter in the middle to give you more of a comfortable feel - but that causes a brighter spot that makes you eyes adjust and makes it not as good as a night light. So basically, having bought one myself, I was a little dissapointed. It does not match a high intensity output light like a Light And Motion taz for beam brightness. That's what I had really hoped for - a Taz with a genuine cutoff.
You didn't mention the Phillips Saferide, so far that's been the easiest light to recommend. Real cutoff, not as wide as the Ixon Iq Premium, but a smoother beam that is brighter on the road.
It's a lot harder to actually "blind" drivers on the road than it is to blind oncoming bikers on otherwise unlight bike trails at night (some of what I ride). Drivers windshields have slight tinting to avoid glare, they're an entire car lane over, and they always have their own lighting, plus usually have a lot of other lights (street lights, other cars). There's some debate on where the "annoyance" level is (I don't know), but to actually "blind" a driver you need a light brighter than the usual cheap chinese lights on ebay - or one with a really terrible beam pattern. I'm sure you can blind cars using a Niterider 3600 (3600 real lumens and a specifically wide angle lens), or "absurd high lumen count" lights.
But for cheap stuff on amazon, most likely the only people you can get worse than strongly annoying with them are oncoming bikers on bike trails at night (trails with no other lights).
#39
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maybe you should read it again, I did not say that "battery powered lights are dangerous to motorists"
I am just trying to stay alive on a bike....
I am just trying to stay alive on a bike....
Post 14 is abou annoying flashing front lights. As a cyclist an oncoming blinker is so bothersome that I need to loo away. A steady light does not affect me. The OP's view that battery powered lights are dangerous to motorists is ridiculous. When I want to descend fast, sufficient lighting is at the tip of my finger unlike the super expensive German generators that limit output to what is it.....3 watts?
Edit: forgot to mention that the flashing function is a carryover from police and military lights that are used to disorientate and confuse a victim.
Edit: forgot to mention that the flashing function is a carryover from police and military lights that are used to disorientate and confuse a victim.
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Tell you more about what?
The upper beam is reflected down and is broader thus helping on corners and to some extent it provides eye relief to oncoming traffic.
The BT20 has a separate battery holder that I can quickly change 18650 lithiums or just swap another pack whereas the BC30 is one self contained unit that makes battery changes a bit slower but more importantly the extra heft makes a handlebar mount the only realistic location. I like the light to be on the fork or at the crown and there is no easy way to mount the BC30 there. I also like the power settings better on the BT20. I prefer the swtiches on the BT20 and the high power turbo button on the BC30 is idiotic.....basically it is another cable the connects to the headlamp and a separate switch that one would mount on their handle bar to provide a high beam.....I suppose MBR riders might light this.
The upper beam is reflected down and is broader thus helping on corners and to some extent it provides eye relief to oncoming traffic.
The BT20 has a separate battery holder that I can quickly change 18650 lithiums or just swap another pack whereas the BC30 is one self contained unit that makes battery changes a bit slower but more importantly the extra heft makes a handlebar mount the only realistic location. I like the light to be on the fork or at the crown and there is no easy way to mount the BC30 there. I also like the power settings better on the BT20. I prefer the swtiches on the BT20 and the high power turbo button on the BC30 is idiotic.....basically it is another cable the connects to the headlamp and a separate switch that one would mount on their handle bar to provide a high beam.....I suppose MBR riders might light this.
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How many lumens is over the top in your manly opinion?
Are you ok with motor vehicles having two lights each putting over 3,000 lumens? If so, what is the problem with say double the output of the proper German headlamp....let's say 460 lumens. Am I cowardly for needing 450 lumens when riding 20-22 mph at night?
BTW your safety argument is hilarious.
Are you ok with motor vehicles having two lights each putting over 3,000 lumens? If so, what is the problem with say double the output of the proper German headlamp....let's say 460 lumens. Am I cowardly for needing 450 lumens when riding 20-22 mph at night?
BTW your safety argument is hilarious.
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It should be common sense of how one uses their lights, not an arbitrary number. It doesn't take much thought or effort to use lights in a way that allows one to see and be seen in a manner commensurate with their environment. Motor vehicles have a switch and engineered lights that allow appropriate choices, a cyclist must rely completely on their own brain, perhaps that's too much to ask.
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It should be common sense of how one uses their lights, not an arbitrary number. It doesn't take much thought or effort to use lights in a way that allows one to see and be seen in a manner commensurate with their environment. Motor vehicles have a switch and engineered lights that allow appropriate choices, a cyclist must rely completely on their own brain, perhaps that's too much to ask.
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What weapon? When a car is pointing its high beams at me - perhaps the driver forgot to hit the switch - I simply squint or look away. This is turning very silly, headlights are not weapons and no one needs to run out and buy a headlight to ensure the comfort of a vehicle driver. I'm glad you're resourceful enough to modify your torch but I'm just not interested in putting the effort into preventing whatever it is you think will happen if I don't.
You know what happened the last time I actually irritated a driver (as far as I can tell) with my headlight? He flashed his high beams at me. You know what I did? Tilted the headlight down a few degrees. That's pretty much the end of this silly discussion.
What is your deal? There is no hyperbole in the post you quoted, you're being a jackass.
You know what happened the last time I actually irritated a driver (as far as I can tell) with my headlight? He flashed his high beams at me. You know what I did? Tilted the headlight down a few degrees. That's pretty much the end of this silly discussion.
What is your deal? There is no hyperbole in the post you quoted, you're being a jackass.
Last edited by jfowler85; 07-30-15 at 02:07 PM.
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What weapon? When a car is pointing its high beams at me - perhaps the driver forgot to hit the switch - I simply squint or look away. This is turning very silly, headlights are not weapons and no one needs to run out and buy a headlight to ensure the comfort of a vehicle driver. I'm glad you're resourceful enough to modify your torch but I'm just not interested in putting the effort into preventing whatever it is you think will happen if I don't.
You know what happened the last time I actually irritated a driver (as far as I can tell) with my headlight? He flashed his high beams at me. You know what I did? Tilted the headlight down a few degrees. That's pretty much the end of this silly discussion.
What is your deal? There is no hyperbole in the post you quoted, you're being a jackass.
You know what happened the last time I actually irritated a driver (as far as I can tell) with my headlight? He flashed his high beams at me. You know what I did? Tilted the headlight down a few degrees. That's pretty much the end of this silly discussion.
What is your deal? There is no hyperbole in the post you quoted, you're being a jackass.
Originally Posted by kickstart
I was referring to the opposite, those few who use over the top lighting that is excessive for conditions other than full daylight, and/or when there are other vulnerable users in close proximity. If a road or MUT users attention is 100% focused on one cyclists megablaze lightning storm, they are much more likely to be less aware of or fail to notice others.
Its nothing less than an act of cowardice to compromise the safety of others for a feeling of security.
I was referring to the opposite, those few who use over the top lighting that is excessive for conditions other than full daylight, and/or when there are other vulnerable users in close proximity. If a road or MUT users attention is 100% focused on one cyclists megablaze lightning storm, they are much more likely to be less aware of or fail to notice others.
Its nothing less than an act of cowardice to compromise the safety of others for a feeling of security.
Cowardice because I want 10% of the light that a car has?
I would like the poster to respond to my questions raised in response to his/her silly rant.
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If that's doesn't explain it to you, its no use.