Solutions to a hilly commute
08-13-15, 04:47 PM
#27
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E-Assist can be wonderful... 
08-13-15, 04:59 PM
#28
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A kilometer isn't very long though and you could get in shape to burn up it pretty handily, I bet; last night I just put a large cog 27t cassette onto my bike to deal with a similar hill; during the month it took the cassette I ordered to arrive, I kept tackling the hill and today, w/ the new cassette, I didn't shift out of the teens, so have yet to use the new cog. But it was more the last third of the commute, not the very home stretch to get to the door of my house at the end of the day and fall off the bike exhausted.
And I'm still glad for the larger big cog because the approach I took today is the easiest way up that hill, there are other harder ones (longer, shorter-but-steeper...). Nobody complains about having one more gear to shift down to.
08-13-15, 09:10 PM
#29
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Congrats on your first commute.
My commute has some short, steep hills, including an uphill right out of the driveway. At first I tried to avoid the steeper sections, now I just power up them. It gets easier.
My commute has some short, steep hills, including an uphill right out of the driveway. At first I tried to avoid the steeper sections, now I just power up them. It gets easier.
08-13-15, 09:55 PM
#30
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The good news is that it will get significantly easier, and I definitely recommend a larger cassette, your knees will thank you.
08-13-15, 10:53 PM
#31
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Umm, 92m/1100m is a ~8% grade, not some little rise. With a 36x23, that's 12 kph@ 60 rpm, for a 90 kg bike+rider that's ~270 W required, which is 3 W/kg, ie about what you'd expect for a Cat 3/4 racer. The OP clearly needs significantly lower gearing, and he can definitely expect to break a sweat.
The good news is that it will get significantly easier, and I definitely recommend a larger cassette, your knees will thank you.
The good news is that it will get significantly easier, and I definitely recommend a larger cassette, your knees will thank you.
On the other hand, I do better than most on hills, which makes me think that motivation may be just as, if not more important than athletic ability or equipment on hills.
Hills? Just do it?
08-14-15, 07:02 AM
#32
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When I first moved to NC from Savannah, GA, where it is very flat, my road bike had a 12-23 or 12-21 cassette. The NC hills were killing me, and I thought that I was cooked. Fortunately, I talked to a local bike shop, and they were able to install a 7 speed cassette with a much "friendlier" gear cluster (probably 27 top). It made a huge difference.
Now, I've got compact double or triple cranks on most of my bikes, as well as wide-range cassettes. As I've gotten older, the hills haven't gotten any easier, and I see know shame in using easier gearing.
Now, I've got compact double or triple cranks on most of my bikes, as well as wide-range cassettes. As I've gotten older, the hills haven't gotten any easier, and I see know shame in using easier gearing.
08-14-15, 07:52 AM
#33
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Umm, 92m/1100m is a ~8% grade, not some little rise. With a 36x23, that's 12 kph@ 60 rpm, for a 90 kg bike+rider that's ~270 W required, which is 3 W/kg, ie about what you'd expect for a Cat 3/4 racer. The OP clearly needs significantly lower gearing, and he can definitely expect to break a sweat.
The good news is that it will get significantly easier, and I definitely recommend a larger cassette, your knees will thank you.
The good news is that it will get significantly easier, and I definitely recommend a larger cassette, your knees will thank you.
In fact, some days you might just want to get up the hill without killing yourself. I'd be real tempted to change out the DR to allow an even larger gear. But I'd try it with a 30 or 32 first.
I am impressed @nightshade18 btw making it up halfway the first commute.
08-14-15, 08:13 AM
#34
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Having a mountain triple and 11-34 cassette helps me. I'll still occasionally get off and push my bike up a hill if I'm just not feeling that day. Feels good to get off the bike and walk for a minute or two sometimes.
08-14-15, 11:53 AM
#35
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Aww, thanks guys. I'm really pleased with my first commute too. I'm very tempted to swap out for a 30t because the cost is so low.
In other news I ache today. My back is particularly sore and is my uh... rump!
I'll stick at it for now, I'm sure it'll just be getting used to cycling again after such a long break. If I keep at it, I might look at a hybrid because I never us the drop - too uncomfortable - and many of those come with low gears anyway.
Meantime, it's good to be back on the bike!
In other news I ache today. My back is particularly sore and is my uh... rump!
I'll stick at it for now, I'm sure it'll just be getting used to cycling again after such a long break. If I keep at it, I might look at a hybrid because I never us the drop - too uncomfortable - and many of those come with low gears anyway.
Meantime, it's good to be back on the bike!
08-14-15, 11:58 AM
#36
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Umm, 92m/1100m is a ~8% grade, not some little rise. With a 36x23, that's 12 kph@ 60 rpm, for a 90 kg bike+rider that's ~270 W required, which is 3 W/kg, ie about what you'd expect for a Cat 3/4 racer. The OP clearly needs significantly lower gearing, and he can definitely expect to break a sweat.
The good news is that it will get significantly easier, and I definitely recommend a larger cassette, your knees will thank you.
The good news is that it will get significantly easier, and I definitely recommend a larger cassette, your knees will thank you.
08-14-15, 02:30 PM
#37
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Out of interest Gsa103, how do you calculate the w/kg? would be interesting to feed my figures in and see what it actually was ( I think my bike is 22kg from memory and I weigh in at 79kg. We corrected my gearing to 36 chain ring and a 26t on the cassette further up in the thread)
For steep climbs (>6%) W/kg is easy to ballpark, the main energy is the power required to lift the rider+bike up the hill.
Power ~= M*g*(vertical speed).
That implies that:
W/kg ~ g*speed*road grade (%). That's an underestimate (~10-20% low) because it neglects rolling & air resistance, but it works alright.
08-14-15, 06:33 PM
#39
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I don't spend time with calculators anymore. If it ain't in my legs then I need to adjust the gearing. Change to match. Then ride. Spinning pedals results in desired results faster than punching keys.
It seems as if you are doing well. Stop thinking and ride!!!
It seems as if you are doing well. Stop thinking and ride!!!
08-14-15, 07:32 PM
#40
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Evening all,
I have a cheap road bike in the garage after having a brief flirt with commuting to work a couple of years ago. I've now decided I want to give it another try and spent tonight washing and adjusting my bike. The only problem I have is that I've moved house to the top of a pretty decent hill - at least I think it is as an unfit rider. Here's a profile from google:
So my question to you lovely guys and girls is what can I do to my bike to make that hill.... uh ... manageable?
My bike is a Carerra Virtuoso - not the lightest thing in the world. It has a 36 tooth inner chain ring and I think a 23t is the largest gear at the back. I don't want to spend lots on it because, hey I might not carry on commuting and it's only a cheap bike, but also I don't want the hill to put me off. If the bug bites, I'll upgrade to something else as the frame is a bit on the larger size for me and I think I'd rather sit up a bit to protect my back.
So what are my options?
Could this bike take a triple chain ring? or could I swap the rear cogs? Or something else I haven't considered?
Link to my bike below if that helps - thank you all very much in advance for any help you might be able to offer
Cheers
Stu
Carrera Virtuoso review - BikeRadar
I have a cheap road bike in the garage after having a brief flirt with commuting to work a couple of years ago. I've now decided I want to give it another try and spent tonight washing and adjusting my bike. The only problem I have is that I've moved house to the top of a pretty decent hill - at least I think it is as an unfit rider. Here's a profile from google:
So my question to you lovely guys and girls is what can I do to my bike to make that hill.... uh ... manageable?
My bike is a Carerra Virtuoso - not the lightest thing in the world. It has a 36 tooth inner chain ring and I think a 23t is the largest gear at the back. I don't want to spend lots on it because, hey I might not carry on commuting and it's only a cheap bike, but also I don't want the hill to put me off. If the bug bites, I'll upgrade to something else as the frame is a bit on the larger size for me and I think I'd rather sit up a bit to protect my back.
So what are my options?
Could this bike take a triple chain ring? or could I swap the rear cogs? Or something else I haven't considered?
Link to my bike below if that helps - thank you all very much in advance for any help you might be able to offer
Cheers
Stu
Carrera Virtuoso review - BikeRadar
Downgearing Your Bike
08-15-15, 01:00 AM
#41
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Baron von trail - that is a fantastic link, thank you very much!
Plain, simple English that perfectly shows how to achieve a lower gears ratio
Plain, simple English that perfectly shows how to achieve a lower gears ratio
08-16-15, 02:59 PM
#42
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I live in hilly terrain. All of my bikes have triple cranksets. My commuters have 24t granny chainrings with 8-speed 11-32 cassettes.
08-16-15, 03:31 PM
#43
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Eventually, you can try shifting to a larger gear after you crest the hill and pedal as hard as you can for a minute or two. Do this a couple times a week. Oh, BTW, you will sweat and be sore!
This will make your hill climbing much less of an issue.The lighter you are, the easier the hills are.
Or, you can buy a chainring with fewer teeth, although you said you don't want to spend much on this bike.
But, how much would you save in gas, etc.?
08-16-15, 09:19 PM
#44
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Try this: Pull your shoulders up to your ears, then roll them back, so that your chest sticks out a bit to the front - this should help prevent you from rounding your back. Its ok if your butt sticks out to the back. You can pull on the handle bars, while keeping your elbows bend, to help maintain this position (shoulders rolled back, lower back fairly neutral). This should be the same whether you stand to climb or pedal seated as REI advises. If you're pedaling seated, fold your body at the hips instead of the lower back.
08-17-15, 12:22 AM
#45
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I have no idea - it's difficult to assess your own position. I have a history of back problems, so cycling on a road bike probably isn't a good idea, but it's so much fun.
I think my pain is from getting used to a firm saddle again
I think my pain is from getting used to a firm saddle again
08-17-15, 11:19 AM
#46
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I also have a previous back injury, which is why I intend to focus on road bikes with an endurance/relaxed geometry when I start shopping for a road bike. Seems like just about any road bike under the "endurance" category fits the bill. I tend to ride in a fairly upright posture, and when I do have to lean forward, I'm used to folding at the hip instead of rounding my back - from when I used to do deadlifts and kettlebell exercises. These seem to help keep cycling a healthy rather than damaging activity for my back.
08-19-15, 03:00 PM
#47
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I did it!!! 
Only my 2nd commute and I made it up that monster hill.
Well ok, so I cheated a little - it was raining when I left work and my Dad was coming for tea so I needed to be home quick, so I jumped on the train for the trip home. That cuts about 9 miles out of the 11 and leaves me just half a mile from the start of the hill.
I stayed seated as long as I could, only standing for the last little bit. Nearing the top I was going so slow that the front wheel was wobbling and kept wanting to turn on me. It felt as though the front wheel was going light with every push on the pedal - like it wanted to pop up off the floor, but I was so close that determination took me over the top.
What a feeling! I hurt, but am so pleased with myself.
I've got the option of cycling in tomorrow and Friday as well, I'm not sure if it's wiser to give my legs a rest, so if I should just got for it?
Stu
Only my 2nd commute and I made it up that monster hill.
Well ok, so I cheated a little - it was raining when I left work and my Dad was coming for tea so I needed to be home quick, so I jumped on the train for the trip home. That cuts about 9 miles out of the 11 and leaves me just half a mile from the start of the hill.
I stayed seated as long as I could, only standing for the last little bit. Nearing the top I was going so slow that the front wheel was wobbling and kept wanting to turn on me. It felt as though the front wheel was going light with every push on the pedal - like it wanted to pop up off the floor, but I was so close that determination took me over the top.
What a feeling! I hurt, but am so pleased with myself.
I've got the option of cycling in tomorrow and Friday as well, I'm not sure if it's wiser to give my legs a rest, so if I should just got for it?
Stu
08-19-15, 03:11 PM
#48
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I did it!!!
Only my 2nd commute and I made it up that monster hill.
Well ok, so I cheated a little - it was raining when I left work and my Dad was coming for tea so I needed to be home quick, so I jumped on the train for the trip home. That cuts about 9 miles out of the 11 and leaves me just half a mile from the start of the hill.
I stayed seated as long as I could, only standing for the last little bit. Nearing the top I was going so slow that the front wheel was wobbling and kept wanting to turn on me. It felt as though the front wheel was going light with every push on the pedal - like it wanted to pop up off the floor, but I was so close that determination took me over the top.
What a feeling! I hurt, but am so pleased with myself.
I've got the option of cycling in tomorrow and Friday as well, I'm not sure if it's wiser to give my legs a rest, so if I should just got for it?
Stu
Only my 2nd commute and I made it up that monster hill.
Well ok, so I cheated a little - it was raining when I left work and my Dad was coming for tea so I needed to be home quick, so I jumped on the train for the trip home. That cuts about 9 miles out of the 11 and leaves me just half a mile from the start of the hill.
I stayed seated as long as I could, only standing for the last little bit. Nearing the top I was going so slow that the front wheel was wobbling and kept wanting to turn on me. It felt as though the front wheel was going light with every push on the pedal - like it wanted to pop up off the floor, but I was so close that determination took me over the top.
What a feeling! I hurt, but am so pleased with myself.
I've got the option of cycling in tomorrow and Friday as well, I'm not sure if it's wiser to give my legs a rest, so if I should just got for it?
Stu
08-19-15, 03:19 PM
#49
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I stayed seated as long as I could, only standing for the last little bit. Nearing the top I was going so slow that the front wheel was wobbling and kept wanting to turn on me. It felt as though the front wheel was going light with every push on the pedal - like it wanted to pop up off the floor, but I was so close that determination took me over the top.
Hopefully the wheel is ok. I guess you'd know though how ok it actually is, if you experience any other front wheel issues while riding in general. I had a bolt fall off my front wheel because I failed to make sure the bolts were secured enough after taking a flat repair class.
Oh, and you might want to try stretching when you get home, if you're not doing that already. That will help you recover faster from soreness.
Last edited by GovernorSilver; 08-19-15 at 05:22 PM.
08-19-15, 03:39 PM
#50
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It's a tough situation for you, no doubt about that. Unfortunately regardless of the bike and gearing you use as a "new" rider and therefore by definition one that is not in good condition means you will have to struggle a while as you get fitter and stronger in that process. You can and will do it though! Good luck and take the bike out some pleasure rides so you will learn to see the bike as fun and not a "source" of pain or weakness. (Put in on a rack on your car and drive to some bike friendly place for you.)