Mountain bike to commuter
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 6,432
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 539 Post(s)
Liked 44 Times
in
38 Posts
I don't know the min and max on your rim, but usually it's between 1.25" and 2.2". Like I said in an earlier post, I think 1.5" is ideal on a bike that came with 2" tires.
The difference between 1.25" and 1.5" in speed is very small, but the difference in comfort is rather large.
The different between 1.5" and 2.0" in speed is far larger, and the difference in comfort is rather small.
Also on loose stuff 2.0" has more of a tendency to slide around, 1.5" feels like it bites into the surface more and I feel more in control of the bike.
Obviously personal opinions differ, those are my thoughts. It's worthwhile to replace the tires with slicks, but once you get into replacing a fork your money would be better spent on going for a new more road oriented bike.
#28
Full Member
Mountain bike to commuter is a pretty solid conversion and the result is similar to a German city bike. My Kona Cinder Cone has a Salsa suspension corrected steel fork, Specialized Nimbus slicks a rack and fenders all nicely bolted on to the eyelets on the dropouts. The end result cost a bit to buy a fork and tires but worked out better than getting another bike of comparable quality.
#29
Disco Infiltrator
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,446
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3126 Post(s)
Liked 2,103 Times
in
1,367 Posts
You replace-the-fork guys are killing me! This is an XT-level cross country racing bike with a Lefty Head Shok. It predates the time anyone wanted disks on a commuter, so I would not be surprised to learn it has no rack or fender eyes, and difficult if it did. Let it be what it is, and tell OP to get a hybrid!
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Genesis 49:16-17
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,992
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2494 Post(s)
Liked 738 Times
in
522 Posts
You replace-the-fork guys are killing me! This is an XT-level cross country racing bike with a Lefty Head Shok. It predates the time anyone wanted disks on a commuter, so I would not be surprised to learn it has no rack or fender eyes, and difficult if it did. Let it be what it is, and tell OP to get a hybrid!
#33
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Probably cant sell that and find another bije thats affordable right now (15% taxes in quebec) so I will buy some wide slick tires and see how that feels for now.
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 646
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 185 Post(s)
Liked 36 Times
in
31 Posts
I run my front tire at about 75 PSI and my rear at 90, and while it is true the fatter tires like Big Apples and Big Bens were a little more comfortable over the rough roads here, I don't think they were worth the penalty in handling and speed. Someone mentioned Continental Town & Country's, I used to like these when they were available in 1.75" and I think they were slightly different in compound and tread, but I don't think they're a good tire in larger sizes than that. The Big Ben is a much better ~2" tire. BTW, I was glad I went with the 2.15" size, the 2.35" wouldn't have fit under fenders at all.
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Napa, California
Posts: 470
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
1 Post
What was "bad" about the larger size town and country? Just curious, I don't have a ton of experience with them, just have a few hundred miles of gravel riding on a set of 1.9" not sure what I'm missing...no flats, they've seemed to perform just fine for me, but perhaps I'm not particularly discerning.
And, yeesh, that tire pressure he mentioned is so damn high. he's only a couple PSI down from what pressure I ran my 700x25 tires at. My fast, 700x35 tires are usually set to 60f/65 rear, and dropped down in the 50psi range for mixed road riding. Anything even approaching MTB sizes doesn't even get close to 65PSI for me. I don't even know why you'd run tires that wide if you're just jacking up the pressure and taking away any of the benefit. Unless you're a really big guy running a heavy load.
my 26x2.1 tires get set to about 35/40, and then don't get topped off for weeks. Usually the ride quality improves a week or so later. my balloon tires got set to about 30.
edit: hmm, this actually seems to be a common occurrence. Nearly everyone I've heard who didn't think wider tires were any good, almost always ran them at about double the necessary pressure. The whole point of wider is you can run less and less pressure with no negatives. Bumping it up above a certain point only make the ride quality and handling turn to ****, with no speed gains.
Last edited by AlTheKiller; 09-02-15 at 12:34 PM.
#36
meh
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Hopkins, MN
Posts: 4,704
Bikes: 23 Cutthroat, 21 CoMotion Java; 21 Bianchi Infinito; 15 Surly Pugsley; 11 Globe Daily; 09 Kona Dew Drop; 96 Mondonico
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1110 Post(s)
Liked 1,013 Times
in
519 Posts
I find even .5 watt too much, unless its rainy out, so I let the batteries run down in my garage and use the light only after its really, really dim. Sometimes the light goes out completely half-way through my commute. Perfect. I may soon try just not using any lights at all at night.
Bike lights serve two functions, to been seem by other traffic, and to light your path. Think about a light that fits both needs. If you live in the 'burbs with little street lights, you want 700 lumens for night riding. In the city, with lots of street lights, you can run with a lower, ~25 lumens.
If you are using a bright light, be thoughtful about the adjustment/angle, you don't want to point a bright light at driver's eye-level. I like to turn on the light in the garage and see that the beam of the light is roughly a car-length out in front of the bike.
To the OP question, I commuted (11 miles one-way) by MTB with front suspension for years. It was just fine. When I decided to commit to daily bike-commuting, I purchased a new bike with drop bars and narrow tires. It made the ride faster (& funner*). I kept the MTB for winter riding and some single-track riding.
* Yes, I said "funner" and funner is not a word. Deal with it!
#37
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Anyone knows if just buying a cheap fixed gear might do the job? They look nice and I feel like it would be more fun to ride on the cycling roads and for commuting.
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 6,432
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 539 Post(s)
Liked 44 Times
in
38 Posts
Satisfaction levels with fixed gear bikes vary a lot. Some people love them, some people absolutely hate them. Generally the more the roads are flat the more people like them.
#40
Senior Member
2002 Cannondale F1000SL CAAD5 "Full Wood" easily converts to a blazing-fast, 700c commuter. The rear allows huge tire clearance, up to 35c slicks. The front is nearly unlimited, with a Lefty. I have the Volvo Team race version of your bike....fully converted to a flatbar, 700c Urban/Cyclocross machine:
Last edited by Dilberto; 09-03-15 at 11:13 PM.
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Napa, California
Posts: 470
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
1 Post
I got back into cycling on a cheap Bikesdirect fixed gear. I think it was $250 at the time, but this was also right as fixed gear bikes were really turning into a marketable niche, prices have probably gone up since. The frame and components were still entry level-ish (tires and saddle being complete rubbish), but a nice step up from the trash on the market nowadays, which can be hard to avoid.
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Greater Atlanta OTP NW
Posts: 146
Bikes: GT Traffic 2.0 w/ Blackburn Rack
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Change the tires. Buy fenders. Get a saddle bag for a patch kit, pump, and spare tube. Have fun!
#44
Pedaled too far.
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Petite Roche
Posts: 12,851
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
Anyways, I was looking for a fixed gear to go around town and for commuting, but realised I could not do alot with it (cant climb sidewalks or those kind of things) so I thought I might switch some things on my mtb to make it more road friendly. I want to be able to bike comfortably and go moderately fast on the cycling roads and all that stuff.
__________________
"He who serves all, best serves himself" Jack London
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Kent Wa.
Posts: 5,332
Bikes: 2005 Gazelle Golfo, 1935 Raleigh Sport, 1970 Robin Hood sport, 1974 Schwinn Continental, 1984 Ross MTB/porteur, 2013 Flying Piegon path racer, 2014 Gazelle Toer Populair T8
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 396 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
I put Kojak 2.0 slicks on my Ross and they were great for the summer and in town, but offered inadequate traction in the perpetual wet of the PNW on rural roads and MUTs.
Vittoria randonneur cross in 1.75 solved the issues with slick conditions, with little change in speed or comfort, and seem to be less susceptible to cuts.
Vittoria randonneur cross in 1.75 solved the issues with slick conditions, with little change in speed or comfort, and seem to be less susceptible to cuts.
#46
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Vancouver,Washington
Posts: 2,280
Bikes: Old steel GT's, for touring and commuting
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
What was "bad" about the larger size town and country? Just curious, I don't have a ton of experience with them, just have a few hundred miles of gravel riding on a set of 1.9" not sure what I'm missing...no flats, they've seemed to perform just fine for me, but perhaps I'm not particularly discerning.
#47
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mississauga/Toronto, Ontario canada
Posts: 8,721
Bikes: I have 3 singlespeed/fixed gear bikes
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4227 Post(s)
Liked 2,488 Times
in
1,286 Posts
Yes it's possible to climb sidewalks and ride up and down the curbs with a fixed gear, you just need to be careful how you approach the curb and make sure that your pedal doesn't hit the curb. I do it all the time.
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: The First State.
Posts: 1,168
Bikes: Schwinn Continental, Schwinn Paramount, Schwinn High Plains, Schwinn World Sport, Trek 420, Trek 930,Trek 660, Novara X-R, Giant Iguana. Fuji Sagres mixte.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Liked 22 Times
in
10 Posts
I recommend Panaracer Tservs in 1.75 (42mm). They are light, have good flat protection, and roll well.