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Old 09-08-15, 11:08 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by gsa103
There are some distinctions that should probably be clarified here. There are several different grades of tire: true tubeless, tubeless-ready, and normal clinchers. True tubeless tires have an air-tight layer inside the tire and can hold air without the need for sealant, they have a leakdown rate similar to a standard butyl tube + clincher. Tubeless-ready tires typically have reinforced beads and some sealing, but will leak considerably if inflated without sealant. Sealant will weep through the sidewalls, sealing the tire and bringing the leak rate to at or below a standard clincher. Normal clincher (mountain bike only) tires can be run tubeless, but the tire will absorb a considerable volume of sealant as the sealant fills the micro-pores of the rubber tire. The seepage is fairly common after sealant is applied.
Good info, thx. Just pre-ordered this bike which advertises "tubeless-ready". So in theory (assuming 'tubeless-ready' includes good rim tape) if I wanted to go tubless I would just get some sealant and replace the tubes with valves, and try to inflate/seat/seal and be good to go?
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Old 09-08-15, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I'm not sure that the extra hassles are worth the price. You could just as easily get tubes with sealant in them and not have to do the extra steps to mount the tubeless.



This is one of those things about tubeless that I just can't wrap my head around. The tire is sealed as is an inner tube. Where does the sealant go? Slime tubes, for example, don't need "refreshment" every few months so why do tubeless tires? Do they leak that much air? And even if they leak air the water in the sealant should be harder to get through the rubber give the polarites of the materials and the size of the water molecule. Carbon dioxide can quickly diffuse through rubber but water simply doen't diffuse out of rubber vessels at any appreciable rate. I would expect a water balloon...a much, much thinner vessel...to remain a water balloon for decades without any appreciable loss of water.

Where doe the water in the sealant go?
The sealant dries out. Weeps through the side walls, the bead seat and fixing small holes. The main advantage for tubeless in mt biking is the ability to run lower pressure and the elimination of pinch flats.( No tubes). For my riding area, no thorn flats either. The sealant does not dry out in a sealed plastic bottle, so the tires have to be porous somewhere.
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Old 09-08-15, 01:17 PM
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I suspect tubeless tires will remain a specialty item in the way tubular tires are. Some will be willing to go through the extra expense and labor, in pursuit of a superior ride. But it's hard to justify those costs for everyday riding.
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Old 09-08-15, 01:27 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by kickstart
Whatever,
Like I said, I don't know or really care about the science behind it, I just known that sealent like paint will cure when dispersed in a sealed container.
That's just the way it is.
"Curing" is different for "drying". "Curing" involves polymerization which is the making of larger molecules from smaller molecules. Examples are urethane glues and finishes, paint, plastics, or the formation of Stan's corals, etc. These can all be performed in the presence of a solvent, although some polymerizations need the removal of the solvent to cure entirely. Removal of the solvent is "drying" and doesn't necessarily lead to an increase in molecular weight of the material left behind. Examples of "drying" are removal of water from a salt solution, actual "drying" of the water in paint, removing solvent from a chain, etc.

Yes, paint can "cure" or polymerize in a sealed container. But, in my experience, this occurs with a water layer still on top of the paint unless the can really isn't sealed. Drying out the sealant in a tire requires the removal of the liquid and the mechanism for that removal is what I question. Where does it go and how does it pass through a water impermeable barrier?


Originally Posted by gsa103
There are some distinctions that should probably be clarified here. There are several different grades of tire: true tubeless, tubeless-ready, and normal clinchers. True tubeless tires have an air-tight layer inside the tire and can hold air without the need for sealant, they have a leakdown rate similar to a standard butyl tube + clincher. Tubeless-ready tires typically have reinforced beads and some sealing, but will leak considerably if inflated without sealant. Sealant will weep through the sidewalls, sealing the tire and bringing the leak rate to at or below a standard clincher. Normal clincher (mountain bike only) tires can be run tubeless, but the tire will absorb a considerable volume of sealant as the sealant fills the micro-pores of the rubber tire. The seepage is fairly common after sealant is applied.
Let's start with the tubeless tires. Without sealant, a tubeless tire would be just as susceptible to flats as any other tire. The air tight layer isn't going to provide any kind of puncture protection so I doubt you'll see too many people running them without sealant. But even then, the sealant has to be refreshed.

Tubeless-ready tires may leak on the initial installation but once the minor leaks are filled, they should stop leaking air and, more importantly, retain the liquid of the sealant. If the sidewall is weeping sealant, the tire will be losing air as well. If the rate is higher than that of a standard clincher with a tube, what advantage does a tubeless-ready tire have over a clincher/tube system? Add to the need to be constantly refreshing the sealant and the tubeless-ready system is starting to sound like more of a hassle for no real benefit.

Similarly to the tubeless-ready tires, a regular clincher should fill the voids in the tire and eventually stop leaking sealant. But, again, the sealant has to be refreshed on a regular basis.

Originally Posted by gsa103
The majority of sealant is probably lost due to flat prevention. A couple of micro-punctures will cause sealant to wick in and re-seal everything.
At the normal charge of 2 oz (56g) of sealant and the suggested refresh interval of every 3 months, that's a lot of mico-punctures. I would suspect that a huge puncture would require a few miligrams at most of sealant to seal the hole. If you assume 10 mg per goathead puncture (which is a large hole), that should be enough sealant for 5600 punctures before you'd run out of liquid. I can get a lot of punctures here in goathead infested Colorado but I don't think my lifetime number is 5600.

Bottom line: I'm not buying the micro-puncture idea.

Originally Posted by gsa103
Remember that bicycle tires are only approximately sealed, they still need inflation on a regular basis. If sealant weeps into the tire, it then is fully exposed to air and can quickly evaporate. It's well known that sealant loss is much faster during the first application of sealant to tubeless-ready tires. Even still the usual re-fill time period is ~3 months. The second re-fill interval is usually longer, and frequently not needed due to the tire needing replacement from normal wear.
Bicycle tires...any tire really... diffuse gases. That's why they need inflation on a regular basis. Liquids are very different from gases. The molecules are too densely packed to diffuse through something like the rubber of a tire at any appreciable rate. Water in a much thinner rubber container like a water balloon wouldn't diffuse through at a rate that could be considered anything but geologic. Having to replace a relatively large volume of sealant every 3 months is a very fast rate for a seal (to liquids) system.

The big question is "if sealant weeps into the tire?" It shouldn't pass through the rubber at all unless there is so thing else going on. Given that I seen a few blistered tires and that the sealant contains propylene glycol, I do suspect that the sealant is getting out of the tire by actually dissolving through the rubber and/or through the cords of the casing. I wouldn't look on that as a good thing. If the glycol is dissolving into the rubber, the rubber is swelling which can lead to various problems.

I suspect that I have my answer on where the liquid goes. Frankly, I'm not planning on switching over to tubeless on anything in the near future because the more I look at the system, the more of a maintenance headache it appears to be. Especially since we haven't even discussed fixing a flatted tubeless in the field. I'll pass, thanks.
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Old 09-08-15, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Leebo
The sealant dries out. Weeps through the side walls, the bead seat and fixing small holes. The main advantage for tubeless in mt biking is the ability to run lower pressure and the elimination of pinch flats.( No tubes). For my riding area, no thorn flats either. The sealant does not dry out in a sealed plastic bottle, so the tires have to be porous somewhere.
Personally, I've never seen the need to run super low pressures on a mountain bike. Sure it may help in climbing but even without pinch flats, low pressures put your wheels at more risk of damage when you hit something on a downhill. Yes, you can repressurize your tires for the downhills but my mountain bike rides are seldom uphill and then downhill. I'm going up and down all the time. I've not experienced too many pinch flats either because I'm not trying to run my tires at low pressure.

Road tubeless tires have a lower pressure rating than "normal" tires as well. That lower pressure might be good for smooth roads but for city streets with potholes, a narrow tire with low pressure sounds like a recipe for rim damage as well. A pinch flat is relatively easy to fix and easy to avoid. A damage rim is a far more expensive proposition.

As for the porosity of the tires, see above. Tires may be slightly porous to air but they are nonpermeable to water. If they are permeable to propylene glycol, that's not necessarily a good thing.
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Last edited by cyccommute; 09-08-15 at 01:40 PM.
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