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Old 04-12-17, 09:57 PM   #1
macattack71
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Raleigh Technium 440 Commuter/gravel upgrade recomendations

So I have my original 1986 Raleigh Technium 440, wanting to upgrade it for light commuter duty and gravel trails. It most recently had 27" x 1.375" knobby tires on it for regular riding, so tire clearance is decent. I have my SuperSix for commuting when the weather is decent, but i miss many days when the weather is questionable. I'd like to slap some fenders on it for those days. Maybe add a rack also. Its 16 miles each way with 800 feet of climbing. With stem shifters and horrible brakes, the Technium has mainly been a trainer bike. Integrated shifters have spoiled me royally.

I already have 6700 Ultegra front/rear derailleur and a 6700 11-28 cassette from previous changes, and Tektro R539 brakes on order. I still need shifters (maybe 105 5700) and wheels, likely getting something used. The bike rear dropouts can easily open to 130 mm for modern 10 speed wheels. It came with a 52/40 Sakae-Ringyo square taper crank that has a very slight wobble to it. Not perfect but more than functional. Not sure if its the bracket, spider, or chainrings. I had a 7-speed freewheel on there. The BB UN-71 has minimal play to it, but spins smooth.

The question is:

•Do i keep the current square taper crankset and change the chainrings and BB, or go to something like a Shimano Hollowtech II crank with outboard bearings, say Tiagra 4600 series? What will hold up better?

A whole set of Tiagra 4700 10 sp goes for ~$315 on Ribble, but that color does not blend well with this bike. I only paid $269.99 for this bike back in 1986.

I fit some of my old FSA 110 BCD 10 sp 50/34 chainrings (7k miles on these) on there to investigate, fit pretty darn well. The spacing seems right, no way for 10 sp chain to slip between the chainrings. The cassette clears the dropouts based on installation of my other wheel. But i have no way to test out shifting currently. I do need to measure the chainline.

The goal of course is to keep cost down and gain more riding time. This is not a restoration, but i would prefer to add more silver parts back to it rather than black. The frame is in good shape for 29 years old, no dents or frame issues, just scratches. I have no plans on painting it. If this does not work out I can always swap these parts to another frame that is better.
Thanks.

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Old 04-13-17, 02:41 PM   #2
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Cool! I've never seen a Technium like that, what does the "440" designation mean? Here's a great online article about another Technium.

Below are some pics of my (son's) Technium. I got it for $50 from a friend (who scored it for $5 at a church sale!). Since the original downtube accushift levers were very much disliked, I swapped in some stem shifters, and also converted it to a flatbar since little hands had trouble with the drop-bar brake levers.

It's good to hear you've gotten up to 1.375" (35mm) tires in there, I might get some wider tires in there myself.

IMO there's nothing more bulletproof than a square taper crankset, but others may disagree.



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Old 04-13-17, 02:48 PM   #3
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Two good sources for cheap parts are local co-ops and donor bikes from Craigslist. In a large metro area, it should not be too hard to find a bike with decent parts for $100-$250. If the frame is in good shape, it can be sold separately, or populated with your old parts, and sold off.

I would not put new (expensive) parts on a bike unless it was my precious. If it's just a tool, go with cheap+works.
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Old 04-13-17, 04:06 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macattack71 View Post
The bike rear dropouts can easily open to 130 mm for modern 10 speed wheels.
On a bonded aluminum frame? Was it 120 or 126 to begin with?
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Old 04-13-17, 04:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
On a bonded aluminum frame? Was it 120 or 126 to begin with?
The main three tubes on that Technium frame are aluminum bonded to steel lugs. The rear triangle is composed of steel stays brazed to the steel seat lug, bottom bracket, and dropouts. Spreading the dropouts is no different from doing so on any steel frame.
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Old 04-13-17, 04:20 PM   #6
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Correct, the rear triangle is steel. See also the article I linked, that guy cold-set his frame too.
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Old 04-13-17, 04:28 PM   #7
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Oh, I see
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