bert37

Hey all,

I've recently begun looking for a replacement bike, to be used mainly for commuting and other city riding, as well as the occassional charity/fun ride. My commute is 6 miles each way, entirely on roads. Roads with plenty of potholes, cracks, etc. I currently ride a 7-year-old mountain bike with front suspension. I like the suspension for smoothing out the bumpy spots, some of which are impossible to avoid, but the thick, treaded tires are just too tiring for everyday road riding.
I don't know a whole lot about bikes -- I haven't bought one in seven years, and I never got into upgrading, repairing, or even maintaining my current bike well, for that matter. This will become obvious in my time on the forums here. ; )

I've been a bit overwhelmed by the variety of choices in my price range (~$600-900). I initially wanted to buy a road bike, with thin, nearly treadless tires and dropped handlebars, for the most efficient commuting experience possible. I was jealous every time I'd see someone cruise by me on one of these, seemingly exerting much less effort. However, I've never ridden a road bike, so there are several things I have *no idea* about. Such as....
is it really as uncomfortable to ride with dropped handlebars as several websites I've read make it out to be? is your vision / awareness of traffic inhibited at this angle?
can those tiny, thin, hard saddles really be comfortable?
AND, maybe most importantly...can you hop curbs, take the occassional shortcut across grass/dirt, or even ride over major potholes without worry of damaging the wheel, wiping out, or giving yourself a migraine? I really have no idea.
OR
should I look more into hybrid bikes with knobby-but-thin tires (for occassional "off-roading") and possible front-suspension (for curb hopping, to prevent headaches and/or damaged wheels)?
I'm a bit worried that I may miss the "comforts" of my mountain bike (upright seating position, cushioned ride) if I go to a pure road bike, but I don't want to compromise too much on ride efficiency, either.

Sorry to be so ignorant. I plan to get out to test ride a bunch of bikes in the next week or so. I'd ideally like to narrow my search down a bit before then. So far, online research has me interested in bikes such as Trek 7500fx, 1000C, Giant FCR3, OCR3, Specialized Sirrus Elite, etc. and many others along the same lines I'm sure... any particularly stellar bikes I'm missing (in this price range)?

Thanks much for any input..!

P.S. -- I plan to add panniers to whatever bike I get, so I guess the rear eyelets are a requirement. Also, I prefer the toe strap pedals to clipless/specialized shoe pedals (I prefer to bike in sandals).

ivan_yulaev

1. You get used to it.
2. It's not that bad. I have no trouble looking ahead.
3. Somewhat. I've never actually borked a wheel on mine, but I do suppose they are less durable than mountain bikes. However, it's not like looking at it will cause it to fall apart.

I'd wait for the '06 trek 1000SL...have you seen the colors? Beautiful...

Also, maybe it's just me, but even the worst ass-hatchet seats don't give me pain, wearing streetclothes. You'll do fine...

Joe Dog

I think it's all what YOU like. If you like your mountain bike and don't want to give up the comfort of an upright position and the suspension, then put on some slicks and keep running it. I really prefer dropped handle bars though. I am fidgety and constantly moving my hands around and really appreciate the different hand positions I get on drops. Even with bar ends on my mountain bike, I feel like I only have two hand positions that work (and I don't even like the usual one - I ride on the bar ends almost all of the time).

My commute is just a little bit longer than yours, but similar (paved but not very well). At that distance, realistically, I could probably ride anything. But my preference is a "road bike" with dropped handle bars and some good stout rims (it's actually a "Cross bike" - a little beefier than a straight road bike but thinner tires than a mountain bike), but I've done my commute a lot on my mountain bike and that works, too. The seat is very comfy despite being thin and it is not difficult to see traffic at all, BUT the riding position feels different than my mountain bike does. It's not better or worse, it's just a different kind of riding. I feel like I go faster, use less energy and am more on top of my bike and what it's doing.

I think most people you ask are going to steer to towards the type of rig they are currently riding because they like it and it works for them. I like my cross bike a lot, but it's got some traits that you might not like, so I am not going to suggest you get one of those. Rather, test ride everything you can find in your price range and get the one that make you smile the widest.

So... no direct answer but I hope this helps. Good luck and enjoy the ride.

jnbacon

Like Joe Dog, I use a cyclocross bike for commuting. I've used mountain bikes and road bikes for commuting, with and without racks, suspension and no suspension. And, for me, the cyclocross bike wins easily. It's a little more stable than a road bike and a lot more efficient than a mountain bike. It can get bonked around without breaking, but so can my road bike. If you find a cyclocross bike that is not meant for racing (i.e. has rack eyelets, water bottle bosses, fender eyelets), you might find what you are looking for. Take a look at the Surly Cross-Check for an example: https://surlybikes.com/

Along the same lines, touring bikes have similar properties.

Oh, as far as the saddle goes, make sure to get a width that fits, i.e. matches the width of your sit bones, the knobby bones in your buttocks. A too narrow saddle can be very painful.

bert37

Thanks for the responses so far. I've definitely just gotta take a roadie out for a spin to get a feel for that.

Although it's a bit out of my price range, I've just become interested in the Specialized TriCross, which sounds like a great "do everything well" type bike:
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=12394

never

The TriCross is a cyclocross bike, as described above. There are quite a few options for cyclocross bikes, check out some local bike stores and you'll see what's available. Here is a Kona cyclocross bike in your price range.

georgiaboy

Two things that are important to me about a commuting bicycle.

1. Proper fit. I am of short stature at 5'5" with a 74cm inseam. My lower body is shorter than my torso. For me this means a sloping top tube. With my short inseam measurement a bicycle with 26" wheels fits me better. So, I commute on a mountain bike frame. Looking to get a steel hardtail for next year.

2. Quick handling. I live in Atlanta. When commuting in a high-density area from time to time you have to be evasive on your bicycle. The frame design aids in quck handling. A flat bar or riser bar will also allow for a quick side-step move. A riser bar may be more comfortable.

IMHO

Mr. DNA

The Kona Jake that is linked by Never is what I ride and i love it.

kf5nd

is it really as uncomfortable to ride with dropped handlebars as several websites I've read make it out to be?

Not until you get to be old like me (44), then it starts to matter.

is your vision / awareness of traffic inhibited at this angle?

Yes, I notice my vision isn't quite as good in bad traffic. I tried my long, 35 mile roundtrip commute in heavy traffic on my road bike at first, didn't like it due to that reason.

can those tiny, thin, hard saddles really be comfortable?

Yes, they can be comfy, after you get used to them!

AND, maybe most importantly...can you hop curbs, take the occassional shortcut across grass/dirt, or even ride over major potholes without worry of damaging the wheel, wiping out, or giving yourself a migraine? I really have no idea.

A ride bike digs itself way deep into grass/dirt. I do not do potholes or curbs on my road bike. The tires will get torn and cut by rocks. Never, ever. I also do not drive my Toyota Corolla up bouldery dry stream beds.

should I look more into hybrid bikes with knobby-but-thin tires (for occassional "off-roading") and possible front-suspension (for curb hopping, to prevent headaches and/or damaged wheels)?

Nope, not "knobby but thin", but "wide-but-almost-smooth". A tire maybe 32 - 38 mm (1.25 - 1.5 inches) wide, with minimal (maybe inverted) tread, or very minor knobs along the sides but not along the center. This is a good compromise for road and trails. I put a rigid fork on my mountain bike, you don't really need a suspension for occasional curb-hopping, grass/dirt riding, etc.

I'm a bit worried that I may miss the "comforts" of my mountain bike (upright seating position, cushioned ride) if I go to a pure road bike, but I don't want to compromise too much on ride efficiency, either.

Sounds like you want a cyclocross bike! Road frame, but set-up for wider tires. If you get tires as described above, and inflate them to max pressure for road use, this set-up will be faster than anything you've ever ridden before, and you'll still be able to off-road with it, and it'll be damn sexy too.

phillybill

I use both......just depends on the day. But I did put slicks on the MTB....that is a must.

RT

I own two mountain bikes which now look more like beefy road bikes. Got a wicked good deal on a Raleigh M50 and a Giant Rainier (disc brakes are a requirement with me) and changed crankset to 48/38/28, swapped suspension for Surley rigid forks, added a Scott handlebar with the integrated bar ends ($9.99 smokin' deal at ebikestop.com), set them almost like a time trial bar, padded and wrapped them, added an aero bar for an additional position and Performance Versa Trac Kevlar road-use MTB tires (2" with a center bead for better rolling). These bikes can go anywhere. Sure, they're both a little heavier, but I look at that as an additional workout I estimate the Raleigh (less expensive of the two) with all of the mods cost about $500.

georgiaboy

Best way to go. Using MTB for commuting is a no-nonsense way to go. The crank with 48t on front is best as well. Most bikes of this kind have a 44t large cog on the crank is is too small once on pavement.

I will have to check out the Scott handlebar because I am not happy with my handlebar setup.

Banzai

I use both. A Haro MTB with 1.95" slicks (shoulda gone with 1.5"), and a Fuji Absolute, which is a bit more of a "cross bike." Just depends on the day. I guess anymore my MTB is like a slimmed down "streetified" MTB, and my Fuji is a bit beefier than your typical road bike. Guess it just depends what you want. (Flat handlebars on both, however.)

Krazy Koz

This is the same bind I was in when I began commuting (and cycling altogether) about a year and a half ago.

My experience has taught me that you definitely want flat handle bars if you are going to do much city riding. They provide you with much more control in general, especially at low speeds. Since you are going to be riding in the city, you will rarely (or at least I rarely do) ride at top speeds for prolonged periods of time. Ergo, you will not be in a position to be in the heads down position. The terrains are generally not flat and generally not strait. And since you have to contend with lots of starts stops and turns, low speed control will be an issue. So you definitely want flat handle bars; in a year and a half of riding, they have saved my butt from a number of close calls.

That doesn't mean you want a hybrid, though. Thin knob-less tires are nice and help you go faster. Luckily, there is a new quasi-category called flat-bar road bikes emerging, which should fit the bill nicely. Giant offers a product line called FCR and specialized offers a line called Sirrus, both of which are essentially road-bikes with flat handle bars. I would suggest you start your look there. Happy hunting.

DogBoy

Another vote for cyclocross bikes. (I ride the Kona JTS). I up(or down depending on your philosophy) graded the wheelset to a beefier rim (Mavic a719 36H). I'm 220, and ride 700x35 tires. I hit potholes and rail-crossings at full speed (15-25 mph depending on slope of the road), bunny hop and take the occasional off-road short-cut. I've had zero problems. I agree with others that if you are going to be in traffic a lot that flat-bar is nicer. However for the speed/comfort/utility blend, I don't think there's much out there that can beat a cyclocross bike.

anandi

2nd the suggestion for looking at the Sirrus and also Giant Cypress SX and Pegasus are flat barred / hybrid road bikes. While flat bars do give you more control at low speeds, for longer commutes the don't offer varied hand positions, even with bar ends. I have a 12 km commute so a little longer than yours, but find with my drop bar bike I'm more comfortable. I put cyclo-cross interupter levers on the flat part of the drops which gives me a lot of braking flexibility and better visibility when taking it easy. In addition to hybrid and 'cross bikes, you might consider touring bicycles. They are more rugged, have a more relaxed frame geometry and will have eyelets for panniers etc.

coenan

I have a Raleigh C40 I commute to work with a few days/week. It is a hybrid/cross bike and
works well. It is a bit heavy and if I had to do it again I would go for a Trek 7x00fx (7200, 7300, 7500) model.

AndrewP

Cross bike like the Kona Jake may not have provisions for mounting racks and mudguards, which touring bikes will have, but they will have more agile handling. 28 mm or 32 mm tires should be adequate for occasional curb hopping. The drop bars are good for headwinds.

djgonzo007

I agree with Joe Dog ^. I like the different positions the dropped bars give me especially since I have some big hills and subsequently decents on my commute I like the ability to tuck and get my hands low in the drop position. My commute is about 9 miles each way and my road bike suits me fine. I don't use panniers however just a backpack. A lot of this as said abouve will depend on personal preference but again I've had no problems and enjoy my commute on my road bike.

Boudicca

I commute on a hybrid, because I can get to the brakes more quickly, and because I feel that the upright position makes it a little easier to see and to be seen. And because it's equipped with lights and other useful things. I ride the road bike at weekends because it's fun. And once in a blue moon I take the roadie into the office, as a special treat for me.

Santaria

2004 Del Sol Veloz TS here.

Comparably its a 90% road bike with the 10% being the flatbar and XT shifters/brakes (I upgraded them from crapola). This bike has eyelets front and rear - as a matter fact, I'm going to tour this one perhaps. All depends on if I buy that bianchi I want still...

Anyhow, I'd agree with others, the Kona JTS is a good bike for the stuff your describing; unless your willing to ride conservatively, a road bike's rims will not hold up to slamming into potholes, etc. as well as a set of xcross rims or some of the sturdier non-aerodynamic alex grade rims perhaps.

HiYoSilver

Other than it's a lot of fun, why the h* do you want to jump curbs?

Seriously, it's a trade off between going faster and jumping curbs.
If you're going faster, you can't jump curbs with your race car.
If you're jumping curbs, you can't go fast cause trucks can't go as fast as race cars.

It's either A or B, you can't have it both ways with the type of bike.

However, you can have it both ways with the handlebars. You do NOT get mountain bike bars. You get road bars and double brake levers. One "suicide as one person calls them" parallel to the bars just like mtn bikes. The other set are normal road brakes. You ride most of the time either on the bars [ same as mtn bike ] or on the hoods [leaning forward]. It is important to have this other position when you have a head wind and want to go easier. You'll probably never ride in the drops, ie, the road position. I've been riding again, commute only, for 9 months. Less than 1% in drops. At the first, 95% was on the hoods. Recently I've switched cause I got tired of going slower, and now ride 95% on the levers.

Rough roads: you want a bike that will handle tires of this width: 28mm, 32mm, or even 35. I just don't know how rough your roads are. 28 will work for most. 35 will work for all.

Type of bike:
not fibre, your roads are too rough.
not titanium, out of your budget
thus steel or alum. Luckily most bikes are of this type.

Bike functional category:
comfort, no, too slow for you desires
road racer, no, too weak and too expensive
road sport -- possible
cyclocross/touring -- possible, limited choices available in your price range
mtn -- no, too heavy
hybrid -- possible, but careful it's not hybrid towards the mtn side
hybrid street-- this is a good choice, but I would use road bars.

So which did you choose A or B.
If A, speed, look for a good road sport bike. See trek for an example of bikes in this category.
If B, hardy, look for a good hybrid street bike. If the front cassette, doesn't go to 52 teeth, you have a mtn hybrid.

You didn't mention hills, so don't know how important gears are to you.

While you're looking at bikes, ask exactly what would be involved in putting a fender, panniers on this model.

Good luck.

bluejack

I'll echo Santaria and put in a good word for a road bike with flat handlebars.

I have an '02 Bianchi Strada which, after I replaced some of the ultra crappy parts that it came with, and got it properly tuned, and settled into it over time, it has really become the perfect commuting bike. Here are a few things I prefer over other commuting bikes I have had:

1) No shocks anywhere. On roads, in traffic, taking corners at speed, I find that shocks diminish my control. Sure, no shocks means a harder ride, and I do ride through some junk, but I find I prefer it.

2) I don't use drops in traffic. Some people may have the knack, but I've never gotten it. I prefer a heads-up orientation for hearing the vehicles and maximizing the effectiveness of peripheral vision. Flat handlebars on a road bike work great.

3) Light weight. Previously I rode hybrids and mountain bikes, and didn't believe the weight difference would be meaningful, particularly if I have ten or fifteen pounds of laptop, books, paper, pens, pda's, cellphones, etc. etc. in my bag. It makes a difference.

4) Thin / High pressure tires. Also make a difference. Again, feel the road better. Also: lower friction. Climbing hills on a high pressure tire is practically a joy.

5) Nice geometry. Even with flat handlebars, I find the geometry of the bike works better for me than previous bikes I've had. I use the whatchamacallems? Bull horns? when cranking up hill, and I have my seat positioned way back, and it's good.

6) It's not a mondo road bike. It's not a racing bike. It's a slightly crappy bike from asia. (I was a little disappointed it wasn't made in Italy.) I wish the paint didn't chip every time I looked at it. But I never worry about riding it. Not over railroad tracks that jut 2 inches above the road. Not about dodging potholes. Not about rain, dirt, dust, glass, or debris. Once I got kevlar tires on there, I've been a happy rider. One puncture in the past year (a ribbon of metal cut my tire in half -- fastest flat I ever had). Stuff breaks, I get to fix it.

7) It's got all the brazings for commuting infrastructure, but I just use a shoulder bag, myself.

Don't know if the current models are similar. Maybe the paint job is better. I think they have carbon forks now, don't know what difference that makes.

I don't jump curbs unless it's an emergency, but now and then, just to remind myself it's fun, I do use a pedestrian crossing as a ramp to get a little air.

phillybill

Let me just add, my other bike is a cyclocross bike.......so I can put larger tires on if I so wish. But I generally ride 700/28. I have kept the road bars on it, but have been thinking of going to a flat bar. But on the whole I find the flat bar and the MTB set up with slicks gives me the most durable setup of them all.

CBBaron

Your commute sounds similar to mine. I find I perfer a cyclocross or light touring bike with canti brakes. The canti brakes allow room for wider tires and fenders. 28-32mm tires will allow the occasional grass/dirt crossing and be tougher on the potholes, but still be faster than most 26" tires.
I found I like the drop bar position when I wanted to go fast but I didn't feel I had good braking control when on the hoods. Adding inline levers like many cyclocross bike do is a nice addition that provides a good braking capability when you are on the flats.
As for seats you need to find one that works for you. There is no one seat that appears to work for everyone, although I have heard most who use a Brooks are very happy.
Craig