Drop bars and shift pods
#1
Jet Jockey
Thread Starter
Drop bars and shift pods
Alright, here's a zany idea...maybe it will work.
I currently ride a Fuji Absolute with a flat bar and shift pods on it. I prefer the MTB style shift pods for my commute...combine small hands with traffic, and I'm just more comfortable with them. However, I like the multiple positions afforded by a drop bar when not in traffic and not needing to shift a whole lot.
So. I'm wondering if anyone has ever mounted Shimano 440 shift pods (or something similar) onto a drop bar, and how feasible this idea is. Just something I've been thinking about, but before I go drop $50+ dollars, I just wanted to get some feedback.
I currently ride a Fuji Absolute with a flat bar and shift pods on it. I prefer the MTB style shift pods for my commute...combine small hands with traffic, and I'm just more comfortable with them. However, I like the multiple positions afforded by a drop bar when not in traffic and not needing to shift a whole lot.
So. I'm wondering if anyone has ever mounted Shimano 440 shift pods (or something similar) onto a drop bar, and how feasible this idea is. Just something I've been thinking about, but before I go drop $50+ dollars, I just wanted to get some feedback.
#2
Senior Member
Well, MTB and road bars are different diameters (I think road are 26.0 mm, MTB 25.4 or 25.6?), so even if you get it to work, it won't be a perfect fit. Just switching to drop bars may mean a new stem - this isn't as minor a change as it should be, sadly.
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Originally Posted by grolby
Well, MTB and road bars are different diameters (I think road are 26.0 mm, MTB 25.4 or 25.6?), so even if you get it to work, it won't be a perfect fit. Just switching to drop bars may mean a new stem - this isn't as minor a change as it should be, sadly.
I forget the exact numbers (sydney? sydney?), but it might be worth trying. A shifter isn't a safety-critical part, so I would not hesitate to try spreading the shifter clamp a little or using a shim to fit the shfiter pod onto a drop bar.
I wouldn't do this myself, however, because I think you would find the shifter position annoyingly inconvenient. My favorite drop-bar shifters are bar-end shifters. You can get an old pair that will work in friction mode for a few $, or ~50 for a pair of new 8/9/10 speed Shimano bar-end shifters.
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The Canondale touring bike used to come with a twist-grip on the bar end.
The more usual touring alternative is bar-end levers.
You can fit down-tube levers to the bars by the brake levers using "Kelly Take-Offs"
As an alt to drop bars, you can get treking or butterfly bars which have a variety of hand positions but take MTB style levers.
The more usual touring alternative is bar-end levers.
You can fit down-tube levers to the bars by the brake levers using "Kelly Take-Offs"
As an alt to drop bars, you can get treking or butterfly bars which have a variety of hand positions but take MTB style levers.
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Originally Posted by lilHinault
You know, I think male cyclists, when the seat's not right, have to shift their pods pretty often.
Have you considered adding "bull horns" to the ends of your handle bars? They're not as classy as true drop bars, but they're cheaper, removeable, and do provide at least one more position.
#7
Jet Jockey
Thread Starter
That's some good info to know...thanks! By the by, are "treking" or "butterfly" bars anything like the "aero" setup you see on a lot of cross-country time trial type rides?
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Originally Posted by banzai_f16
That's some good info to know...thanks! By the by, are "treking" or "butterfly" bars anything like the "aero" setup you see on a lot of cross-country time trial type rides?
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=
Both take mountain-bike brake + shift levers.
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Originally Posted by moxfyre
My favorite drop-bar shifters are bar-end shifters. You can get an old pair that will work in friction mode for a few $, or ~50 for a pair of new 8/9/10 speed Shimano bar-end shifters.
Cheers.
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These are just long bar ends attached to the bottom of some mini-BMX handlebars. They work great for my commute. I did add another break lever to one of my "drops", since this picture was taken.
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Originally Posted by MMACH 5
These are just long bar ends attached to the bottom of some mini-BMX handlebars. They work great for my commute. I did add another break lever to one of my "drops", since this picture was taken.
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Originally Posted by MMACH 5
These are just long bar ends attached to the bottom of some mini-BMX handlebars. They work great for my commute. I did add another break lever to one of my "drops", since this picture was taken.
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Originally Posted by lego
Hey moxfyre, from what I know about MTB shifters, I agree with you. BTW, I currently ride a Kona Jake equipped with the stock Shimano 105 shifters, but I've been thinking about building a beater/winter bike with bull bars and bar-end shifters as a cheap alternative to another set of Shimanos. I've never used bar-end shifters - what makes them so great in your eyes? Is it a big adjustment to make going from something like road brake/shifter levers?
Cheers.
Cheers.
Bar-ends don't have any of the "sloppy" feeling that STIs sometimes do, there are no internal mechanisms to go out of wack, the movement is quick and precise. I think they are the best option for any road bike not being used for racing when you must have instant access to the brakes.
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So you use indexed shifters, then? What's the pull on them like? It's seems like they might be a little stiff to use. And what about the small lever size? Do you not find yourself missing the shifter sometimes.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
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Another vote for Bar-ends.
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Originally Posted by lego
So you use indexed shifters, then? What's the pull on them like? It's seems like they might be a little stiff to use. And what about the small lever size? Do you not find yourself missing the shifter sometimes.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
You're absolutely right, bar-end shifters feel a bit stiff in indexed mode, probably because you have less leverage than with a longer STI lever. Once you get used to it, it feels snappy. In friction mode you can adjust the stiffness by using the right combination of grease and preload on the screw that holds the lever in place.
I have fairly large hands (L size cycling gloves), and I can comfortably push my SunTour bar-end shifters with my fingertips on the handlebar and my palm on the lever. Or I can wrap my thumb, index, and middle fingers around the lever and move it that way.
I don't miss the STIs when riding with the bar-end shifters. But then again I do different types of riding with them. When I'm using STIs I'm usually going fast, heart pounding, need to shift and brake without taking my mind off the ride. With the bar-end shifters I'm usually focused on having a comfortable smooth ride. I like that I can downshift or upshift several cogs all at once, for example at stoplights or when I hit a big hill.
I say give 'em a shot... I got my friction Suntour shifters for $10, and a 7-speed indexed pair for free
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Originally Posted by moxfyre
I say give 'em a shot... I got my friction Suntour shifters for $10, and a 7-speed indexed pair for free
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Originally Posted by lego
Thanks for all the great advice! I think I will definitely give them a shot. Interesting about the 7-speeds: I haven't seen any out there (just the new 9/10 speeds) and some old used friction models. This is of note as in all likelihood my project bike will start with an old school steel road frame, and unless I'm mistaken rear fork spacing on those is generally for 7 speed gearsets.
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Would they go out as far as 135mm??? Amazing! I guess steel IS kinda bendy, if you're careful with it. Could they do this at your LBS?
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Originally Posted by lego
Would they go out as far as 135mm??? Amazing! I guess steel IS kinda bendy, if you're careful with it. Could they do this at your LBS?
See Sheldon Brown's excellent advice at https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
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Originally Posted by moxfyre
Incidentally, one of the trends in touring bikes is to put the dropouts at 132.5 mm so that either road hubs or mountain hubs can be used without difficulty. Now that's versatility
See Sheldon Brown's excellent advice at https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
See Sheldon Brown's excellent advice at https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
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Originally Posted by lego
Originally Posted by MMACH 5
These are just long bar ends attached to the bottom of some mini-BMX handlebars. They work great for my commute. I did add another break lever to one of my "drops", since this picture was taken.