si got a free bike. help!
#1
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so i got a free bike. help!
so here are pics of the bike that i got for free.
the problem is i am only 5'5, i can only touch the ground if i lean the bike way over.
the seat really hurts me i don't know if it takes getting used to or what.
what can i do to it?
in the near future i will be building a fixie or single speed.
the problem is i am only 5'5, i can only touch the ground if i lean the bike way over.
the seat really hurts me i don't know if it takes getting used to or what.
what can i do to it?
in the near future i will be building a fixie or single speed.
Last edited by bigluelok; 05-13-09 at 11:02 PM.
#2
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also what color should i paint it?
im looking for a color that stands out but isn't super out there.
id prefer the color be a krylon type paint or at least aerosal.
how do i remove the old paint stripper? or just sand it primer it then paint it?
im looking for a color that stands out but isn't super out there.
id prefer the color be a krylon type paint or at least aerosal.
how do i remove the old paint stripper? or just sand it primer it then paint it?
#3
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If its the top tube itself getting in your way, either get a smaller frame, or learn to mount and dismount cowboy style.
The saddle looks like a woman's saddle to me, see the vulvitis hole in the center? Could be wrong though, try adjusting it in the direction that feels better. up/down/back/forward/tilt
If you're using spray paint, then you're better off leaving the old paint job underneath.
At least this way when the cr*ppy spray paint comes off the bike will have something to keep it from rusting to death.
#4
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Xenologer is right on. At 5'5 that frame should be right. Is the standover height what bothers you? Can you straddle the toptube without talking at a higher pitch? I had to learn to mount and dismount when I got back into bicycling.
I have a newer Serfas R/X saddle and has that hole in the middle also. Don't know if it's a woman's saddle, the mechaniac at the LBS recommended it and I like it.
Ernest
I have a newer Serfas R/X saddle and has that hole in the middle also. Don't know if it's a woman's saddle, the mechaniac at the LBS recommended it and I like it.
Ernest
#5
Velocommuter Commando
I Say leave the rigid OEM fork alone. Un-modified Hardrocks are getting rarer all the time. I do agree on swapping everthing else if it makes it more confortable..
#6
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Don't do anything to it, that bike is junk. Send it to me today and I can hopefully put it to good use.
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(Life is too short to play crappy guitars) 2006 Raleigh Cadent 3.0, 1977 Schwinn Volare, 2010 Windsor tourist. ( I didn't fall , I attacked the floor)
(Life is too short to play crappy guitars) 2006 Raleigh Cadent 3.0, 1977 Schwinn Volare, 2010 Windsor tourist. ( I didn't fall , I attacked the floor)
#7
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Find someone to help you adjust the seat to the right height. You shouldn't be able to touch the ground easily when sitting on the seat though.
Don't spend any more money on it until you've ridden it a couple of weeks.
Don't spend any more money on it until you've ridden it a couple of weeks.
#8
Velocommuter Commando
I know you are right, but comfort or style. It's up to the owner/rider in the end. I say replace the bars, saddle, stem, ride it for a month and see if it irritates you that the frame is so rigid. It would knock my teeth out of my mouth, but then, I don't commute (this rig would be useless unless you don't mind taking all morning to get there) but ride trails exclusively so I can't stand a rigid/static frame.
Don't change the paint job.
('Love that Continental, string. Kind of like a two wheeled truck, but a sweet bike. I had a yellow '70 [I think] full size for seven years. It had the 12" steer tube. My seat post was raised only 3/4" out of the tube.)
My 2¢.
Don't change the paint job.
('Love that Continental, string. Kind of like a two wheeled truck, but a sweet bike. I had a yellow '70 [I think] full size for seven years. It had the 12" steer tube. My seat post was raised only 3/4" out of the tube.)
My 2¢.
Sure, the new aluminum hardrocks are teeth rattlers, but an old steel frame like the one in question is a smooth, supple ride. BS on it not making a good commuter it might not be all that fast, but to haul a set of full panniers, or a trailer it would be without equal short of a purpose built touring bike.
#9
GATC
I agree, leave it as is. Try sliding the seat back/forth up/down, there's a lot of room to play with and a little adjustment can make a big difference.
Replace that rear knobby tire w/ a slick though, for street or trail use though. The front doesn't look toooo tread-y, unless I'm not seeing the picture right.
Replace that rear knobby tire w/ a slick though, for street or trail use though. The front doesn't look toooo tread-y, unless I'm not seeing the picture right.
#10
Velocommuter Commando
+1 On the spending (Other than fresh tires, tubes and lube)
#11
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Plug your bars!
What shape are the tires in? Any cracking and they should be replaced. Slicks with puncture protection will be a big improvement anyway. Also inspect the brake pads. If they have any cracking or you can get some pad material to crumble off with just your fingernail,then replace them as well. Get some Kool Stop salmons,they'll help in the rain. Might also want to swap the quicl release on the seatpost binder for a straight bolt. Otherwise,just find someone who knows bikes to help you set it up properly before you start swapping parts. A little tweaking can go a long way.
What shape are the tires in? Any cracking and they should be replaced. Slicks with puncture protection will be a big improvement anyway. Also inspect the brake pads. If they have any cracking or you can get some pad material to crumble off with just your fingernail,then replace them as well. Get some Kool Stop salmons,they'll help in the rain. Might also want to swap the quicl release on the seatpost binder for a straight bolt. Otherwise,just find someone who knows bikes to help you set it up properly before you start swapping parts. A little tweaking can go a long way.
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#12
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I'd leave the paint job the way it is: It'll help deter thieves.
I'd get a new saddle. Try a Brooks (B17) or get fitted professionally for a seat at a good LBS.
With the bike straight (not leaning to the left or right), can you stand over the top tube with your feet on the ground? If you can then you're ok. You'll just have to learn to mount the bike "cowboy" style.
If you can't stand over the top tube with your feet on the ground without leaning it over then it might be too big for you in which case I would suggest selling the bike on Craigslist and taking the money to buy a bike better suited for you.
I'd get a new saddle. Try a Brooks (B17) or get fitted professionally for a seat at a good LBS.
With the bike straight (not leaning to the left or right), can you stand over the top tube with your feet on the ground? If you can then you're ok. You'll just have to learn to mount the bike "cowboy" style.
If you can't stand over the top tube with your feet on the ground without leaning it over then it might be too big for you in which case I would suggest selling the bike on Craigslist and taking the money to buy a bike better suited for you.
Last edited by KitN; 05-11-09 at 12:15 PM.
#13
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I have a (Terry, I believe) men's saddle that has a hole in the middle. Pretty comfy. At the risk of being quoted out of context, just because it has a hole in the middle doesn't mean it's a women's.
#14
always rides with luggage
+1. I would know exactly what to do with it. Bring it to my house at once.
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2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
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--Ben
2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
Non-Bike hardware: MX Linux / BunsenLabs Linux / Raspbian / Mac OS 10.6 / Android 7
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Adjust it to fit as best you can and ride it for awhile before you do anything else. If the bike doesn't fit properly, there's no sense in doing anything else to it. Sheldon Brown has a good article on bike fit. sheldonbrown.com
If, after riding it for awhile, the saddle still hurts, but is a comfortable setup, look into getting a new seat. Start with an LBS. Some have contraptions that measure your sit bones, and that will help you find a saddle that is comfortable to you. Some people don't like the saddles with a cutout portion because the plastic around the hole can dig depending on how your area is shaped. An advantage to using an LBS for the saddle is that you don't have to pay to ship it back if it's not comfortable. Some people go through several saddles before they find one that's comfortable. B-17s are expensive, but they don't work for everyone, so it might be worth looking around for a cheaper option that you find comfortable.
Also, if the bike fits and you want to use it for commuting, get some slick tires instead of the knobby tires you have now (unless you ride on a lot of loose trails to get to work). It will be faster and turn better with slicks.
If you want to paint it, I like the flat gunmetal gray look, but that's personal preference. Shiny paint in flashy colors attract thieves, so make sure you consider that when picking a color.
If you are doing any long rides, you might also consider bar-ends or different handlebars to give more hand positions.
Again, adjust the fit, then ride for awhile before you do anything to it. If it doesn't fit, then anything you add later is a waste of money.
If, after riding it for awhile, the saddle still hurts, but is a comfortable setup, look into getting a new seat. Start with an LBS. Some have contraptions that measure your sit bones, and that will help you find a saddle that is comfortable to you. Some people don't like the saddles with a cutout portion because the plastic around the hole can dig depending on how your area is shaped. An advantage to using an LBS for the saddle is that you don't have to pay to ship it back if it's not comfortable. Some people go through several saddles before they find one that's comfortable. B-17s are expensive, but they don't work for everyone, so it might be worth looking around for a cheaper option that you find comfortable.
Also, if the bike fits and you want to use it for commuting, get some slick tires instead of the knobby tires you have now (unless you ride on a lot of loose trails to get to work). It will be faster and turn better with slicks.
If you want to paint it, I like the flat gunmetal gray look, but that's personal preference. Shiny paint in flashy colors attract thieves, so make sure you consider that when picking a color.
If you are doing any long rides, you might also consider bar-ends or different handlebars to give more hand positions.
Again, adjust the fit, then ride for awhile before you do anything to it. If it doesn't fit, then anything you add later is a waste of money.
#17
)) <> ((
sweet ride! like others have said, don't do anything! ride it as much as you can, and then you'll know what you need to do.
#18
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thanks for all the help i lowered the seat. but then i raised it back when it was lowered my legs werent stretching all the way out.
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Just ride it, that's a great city/commuting bike. Don't buy a Brooks saddle, don't change the handlebars, don't do anything except make sure the brakes and shifters are tuned up and working properly. It's a fine bike!
Someone said add a suspension? Yeesh.
Someone said add a suspension? Yeesh.
#20
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yeah i went riding for about 20 minutes today and figured out how i like the bike till i get more comfy with it. for those of you asking about the tires here they are not the best pic's i was in a hurry
front tire
back tire
reason i want to paint it is because thre is some rust on this bike and i dont want it to get worse
front tire
back tire
reason i want to paint it is because thre is some rust on this bike and i dont want it to get worse
#21
always rides with luggage
I dunno... possibly a large two-digit number, maybe more. But get it adjusted fit-wise, change the tires, and level that rack and you might like it so much that selling it won't be an option.
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--Ben
2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
Non-Bike hardware: MX Linux / BunsenLabs Linux / Raspbian / Mac OS 10.6 / Android 7
--Ben
2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
Non-Bike hardware: MX Linux / BunsenLabs Linux / Raspbian / Mac OS 10.6 / Android 7
#22
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Get a set of cantilever brakes with pads attached by nuts, like these https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...3_10000_201354
They are much easier to adjust than the old style ones with post attachment that you have on your bike. Also get smooth tires as several people have suggested. For saddle height - when the pedal is at the bottom you should just be able to rest your heel on the pedal with your leg absolutely straight. This will then give a slight bend to the knees when you pedal with the front of your feet. You may then have to adjust the height a few mm either way, after you have been riding a bit.
They are much easier to adjust than the old style ones with post attachment that you have on your bike. Also get smooth tires as several people have suggested. For saddle height - when the pedal is at the bottom you should just be able to rest your heel on the pedal with your leg absolutely straight. This will then give a slight bend to the knees when you pedal with the front of your feet. You may then have to adjust the height a few mm either way, after you have been riding a bit.
#23
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I wouldn't worry about the rust. What you have looks like surface only. If it starts to look like cauliflower, or gets puffy, then it's a problem.
Just painting over it won't help, you would need to remove the rust completely then paint.
If those are original tires, check for dry rot. If they are still soft (the rubber) the you should be ok.
CE
Just painting over it won't help, you would need to remove the rust completely then paint.
If those are original tires, check for dry rot. If they are still soft (the rubber) the you should be ok.
CE