Thoughts on Shimano DH-3N70 Generator Hub and Lumotec Oval Plus after 1 Year
#1
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Last Christmas (2004) I received a Shimano DH-3N70 generator hub and Lumotec Oval Plus headlamp. I have the Oval Plus with a metal toggle switch, but these don't appear to be readily available any longer; the current models have a plastic slide switch, but can also be controlled by a built in light sensor. I built a new front wheel with a Mavic MA3 rim. I'm using the generator for the front light only so I use a 3W bulb.
I chose to go this route for the typical reasons:
Bike:
I installed this on my commuter, which is a Surly Cross Check built up as a single speed (fixed or free with flip flop hub) with full fenders front and rear. You can see pictures of the bike HERE. I ride year 'round in all weather . My commute is short enough that I can do it no matter what, but when it gets really cold I do limit the extra errands I run.
Location:
I ride in South Bend, IN. It is fairly flat here, but not particularly bike friendly. That said, traffic congestion is not very high and most streets I ride have some street lamps. Given the relative lack of hills, I rarely ride below 12 mph or greater than 20 mph
Cost:
I can't give an exact price because I got the individual parts for Christmas, but the total for rim, spokes, hub and front light was about $200 in 2004. A complete wheel built around the 3N70 with an MA3 will be close to $175 from Harris Cyclery, and the latest iteration of the Lumotec Oval Plus (with light sensor switch) is ~$65.
Usage so Far:
I've waited a year to write my thoughts to make sure I tried it in all conditions, and have been absolutely thrilled with this setup. I've ridden in heavy rain and snow and on hot and cold days. I use the light daily, and have yet to have a single hassle -- I'm still using the original bulb. Since installation, I have not had to touch or adjust anything. It just works every time.
Drag?:
I don't notice any appreciable drag: I've read that generator hubs will bring your average speed down a bit, but since this is a commuter I don't mind (and don't notice a difference if so). Spinning the wheel freely in my hand I can definitely tell when the switch is on or off, but when riding above 2-3 mph I don't feel any notchiness or drag. Once riding I literally can't tell if it is on or off.
Light Output:
For my needs this is excellent. On dark roads I have enough light to see the road, and on city streets with street lamps cars are indeed able to see me. That is, cars don't seem to turn in front of me, either into or across my lane, as they would if I were not clearly visible. I've asked friends to stand down the street as I approach and comment on the visibility, and they say it is very bright.
Caveats:
I've also used a NightRider 10 W HeadTrip, and it clearly gave a LOT more light. If I were riding in heavy/hectic traffic or doing fast descents I would want to couple this with a helmet mounted light (e.g. the HeadTrip). Also, I had some trouble with initial setup due to some confusing instructions, but the solution is easy and described HERE (see last post).
Tail Light?:
I decided to start with generator power for just the front light. I have a battery-powered Cateye LD 1000 tail light which works very well. However, I've recently been thinking about adding a generator-powered Seculite Plus tail light to my rear fender. I'd keep the LD 1000 (it is mounted to my seat post), but I like the idea of easily controlling both the front and tail lights with a single flip of the headlight's toggle switch.
Final Thoughts:
This has been one of the best things I've done for my style of commuting. I never think about the light, but it is always on the bike ready to go with the flip of a switch (I like the metal toggle switch because it is easy to flip while riding even in heavy winter mittens).
I found with battery systems, even rechargeable systems, I was somewhat "cheap" when it came to using my light. That is, I wouldn't turn the light on until it was clearly necessary. Now, however, since I'm not concerned with potentially draining my batteries for "when I REALLY need them" I turn this on even on overcast days. Every other light system I've used has had some level of hassle: replacing/recharging batteries, taking it on and off to avoid theft, batteries dying during a ride, etc. With this I just never think about it, and it makes my style of commuting considerably more pleasant.
I chose to go this route for the typical reasons:
- No need to worry about batteries
- Difficult to steal because the lamp is bolted to the fork crown, and the front wheel is easy to lock to bike
- No clutter on the stem or handlebars
- Elegant
Bike:
I installed this on my commuter, which is a Surly Cross Check built up as a single speed (fixed or free with flip flop hub) with full fenders front and rear. You can see pictures of the bike HERE. I ride year 'round in all weather . My commute is short enough that I can do it no matter what, but when it gets really cold I do limit the extra errands I run.
Location:
I ride in South Bend, IN. It is fairly flat here, but not particularly bike friendly. That said, traffic congestion is not very high and most streets I ride have some street lamps. Given the relative lack of hills, I rarely ride below 12 mph or greater than 20 mph
Cost:
I can't give an exact price because I got the individual parts for Christmas, but the total for rim, spokes, hub and front light was about $200 in 2004. A complete wheel built around the 3N70 with an MA3 will be close to $175 from Harris Cyclery, and the latest iteration of the Lumotec Oval Plus (with light sensor switch) is ~$65.
Usage so Far:
I've waited a year to write my thoughts to make sure I tried it in all conditions, and have been absolutely thrilled with this setup. I've ridden in heavy rain and snow and on hot and cold days. I use the light daily, and have yet to have a single hassle -- I'm still using the original bulb. Since installation, I have not had to touch or adjust anything. It just works every time.
Drag?:
I don't notice any appreciable drag: I've read that generator hubs will bring your average speed down a bit, but since this is a commuter I don't mind (and don't notice a difference if so). Spinning the wheel freely in my hand I can definitely tell when the switch is on or off, but when riding above 2-3 mph I don't feel any notchiness or drag. Once riding I literally can't tell if it is on or off.
Light Output:
For my needs this is excellent. On dark roads I have enough light to see the road, and on city streets with street lamps cars are indeed able to see me. That is, cars don't seem to turn in front of me, either into or across my lane, as they would if I were not clearly visible. I've asked friends to stand down the street as I approach and comment on the visibility, and they say it is very bright.
Caveats:
I've also used a NightRider 10 W HeadTrip, and it clearly gave a LOT more light. If I were riding in heavy/hectic traffic or doing fast descents I would want to couple this with a helmet mounted light (e.g. the HeadTrip). Also, I had some trouble with initial setup due to some confusing instructions, but the solution is easy and described HERE (see last post).
Tail Light?:
I decided to start with generator power for just the front light. I have a battery-powered Cateye LD 1000 tail light which works very well. However, I've recently been thinking about adding a generator-powered Seculite Plus tail light to my rear fender. I'd keep the LD 1000 (it is mounted to my seat post), but I like the idea of easily controlling both the front and tail lights with a single flip of the headlight's toggle switch.
Final Thoughts:
This has been one of the best things I've done for my style of commuting. I never think about the light, but it is always on the bike ready to go with the flip of a switch (I like the metal toggle switch because it is easy to flip while riding even in heavy winter mittens).
I found with battery systems, even rechargeable systems, I was somewhat "cheap" when it came to using my light. That is, I wouldn't turn the light on until it was clearly necessary. Now, however, since I'm not concerned with potentially draining my batteries for "when I REALLY need them" I turn this on even on overcast days. Every other light system I've used has had some level of hassle: replacing/recharging batteries, taking it on and off to avoid theft, batteries dying during a ride, etc. With this I just never think about it, and it makes my style of commuting considerably more pleasant.
Last edited by Derailed; 10-07-07 at 08:03 AM.
#2
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Great report and I your crosscheck !
I used a Union generator all through the 80's and early nineties
and really miss it. I might have to look into this one !
Thanks !
I used a Union generator all through the 80's and early nineties
and really miss it. I might have to look into this one !
Thanks !
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☞-ADVOCACY-☜ Radical VC = Car people on bikes. Just say "NO"
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#3
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I bought a similar setup last August from Harris Cyclery, only my headlight is the more recent iteration of the B&M Lumotec w/ standlight and photocell for on/off. The lights go on my 26" wheel tourer in the summer, and on my full rigid MTB/commuter in the winter. My experience has been similar to yours, it's made my commute much more pleasant and hassle free. My ratio of days cycling to work / days driving or taking the bus has gone way up, the light has made cycling in the dark so much more pleasant. I'm also more inclined to take a few scenic (but unlit) detours on my way home at night, just because I can see the cycle path better with a good lighting system.
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Derailed, thanks for the great review. I have the exact same set up of a SS XC with gen/light/fenders/rack. I agree that my favorite part of the system is not thinking about it. I've got the light sensor on my Oval and I just let it decide when it should turn itself on. My only problem was that it came with a 2.4w bulb and burnt out quickly without a tail light. Non of my LBS carry that bulb, so I just ordered a bunch of 3w from Harris and hopefully won't have to worry about them for a while.
#6
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Thread Starter
I've been using the original bulb, daily, for just over a year. They are ~$5, but as GTcommuter mentioned, your LBS likely doesn't carry them. Therefore, you'll probably need to order from Harris Cyclery so it is best to think ahead and get a couple when you make an order to reduce shipping costs.
GTcommuter: since switching to a 3W bulb, have you had any more bulb failures?
GTcommuter: since switching to a 3W bulb, have you had any more bulb failures?
Originally Posted by Dahon.Steve
That was the question I was going to ask. How many bulbs do you go through and the cost?
Last edited by Derailed; 01-07-06 at 10:50 AM. Reason: typo
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Originally Posted by Derailed
since switching to a 3W bulb, have you had any more bulb failures?
Originally Posted by Derailed
Therefore, you'll probably need to order from Harris Cyclery so it is best to think ahead and get a couple when you make an order to reduce shipping costs.
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Thanks for the report. I have made fairly similar comments when people have asked me for recommendations.
On my commuter bike I have the old Shimano Nexus dynohub (Derailed's hub is better, I've been told) with a round Lumotec; on the two other bikes, I have a Schmidt dynohub with an Oval and Secondary Lumotecs. Great, and I found the lighting provided by the Lumotec is almost to par with what I previously got with a 10 W Vistalite (except when the battery was less than 15 minutes old).
I too use a setup with a few battery-operated Vistalite taillights and a 3-W generator-operated headlight, which avoid hassles with wires running along the frame, plus compatibility concerns when I ride either the single or the tandem, with or without trailercycle, and with or without cargo trailer.
The best factors are:
– always there when I need it;
– always functional; no need to charge, and most importantly, no need to time my rides to be back before the battery dies;
– works in Winter (the Vistalite worked for 1,5-3 hours in Summer, but for less than 30 minutes at -20 C);
– the secondary headlight is a bit useful in pich dark situations because it lights a wider area; but you need to ride at 20 km/h to make it useful.
As GTCommuter said, if you don't use a wired taillight, use a 3 W headlight. Peter White explains the issue thoroughly on his excellent lighting pages.
As for lightbulb usage, I have had two systems since November 2002 and one since November 2003. I just replaced this Summer the main bulb on my touring bike and on my commuter... which means about 3 years of moderate use.
One extra tip. I carry in my pannier a Planet Bike Beamer 5 headlight. It is small and fairly visible, so I point it low at potholes or high at signs and distracted drivers (efficient when flashing). It is also a much better standlight than the built-in one of the Lumotec Oval and it is fine for repairs on the road. And when my lightbulbs burnt, I used it to limp back home, though I wouldn't have done it on unlit roads.
A last tip. Bulbs carry well in foam in a film cannister. Learn how to open the headlight at home. The black tab at the bottom of the Lumotec is not easy to use at night...
On my commuter bike I have the old Shimano Nexus dynohub (Derailed's hub is better, I've been told) with a round Lumotec; on the two other bikes, I have a Schmidt dynohub with an Oval and Secondary Lumotecs. Great, and I found the lighting provided by the Lumotec is almost to par with what I previously got with a 10 W Vistalite (except when the battery was less than 15 minutes old).
I too use a setup with a few battery-operated Vistalite taillights and a 3-W generator-operated headlight, which avoid hassles with wires running along the frame, plus compatibility concerns when I ride either the single or the tandem, with or without trailercycle, and with or without cargo trailer.
The best factors are:
– always there when I need it;
– always functional; no need to charge, and most importantly, no need to time my rides to be back before the battery dies;
– works in Winter (the Vistalite worked for 1,5-3 hours in Summer, but for less than 30 minutes at -20 C);
– the secondary headlight is a bit useful in pich dark situations because it lights a wider area; but you need to ride at 20 km/h to make it useful.
As GTCommuter said, if you don't use a wired taillight, use a 3 W headlight. Peter White explains the issue thoroughly on his excellent lighting pages.
As for lightbulb usage, I have had two systems since November 2002 and one since November 2003. I just replaced this Summer the main bulb on my touring bike and on my commuter... which means about 3 years of moderate use.
One extra tip. I carry in my pannier a Planet Bike Beamer 5 headlight. It is small and fairly visible, so I point it low at potholes or high at signs and distracted drivers (efficient when flashing). It is also a much better standlight than the built-in one of the Lumotec Oval and it is fine for repairs on the road. And when my lightbulbs burnt, I used it to limp back home, though I wouldn't have done it on unlit roads.
A last tip. Bulbs carry well in foam in a film cannister. Learn how to open the headlight at home. The black tab at the bottom of the Lumotec is not easy to use at night...
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Really good stuff. Thanks for sharing, everyone.
A dynamo system of some kind is definitely on my list. So is a singlespeed/fixed Cross Check
A dynamo system of some kind is definitely on my list. So is a singlespeed/fixed Cross Check
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Nice review. I am running the same hub and a different model of Lumotec on my commuter. Haven't burned out a bulb yet, and it's very bright. No noticeable drag.
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Also running a Lumotec with the standlight but my power supply is an old S.A. DynoHub. I have a couple of bottom bracket generators(Sanyo & Soubitez) on other bikes that also work quite well despite not living in a very hospitable area. Don
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cool!
thanks for the writeup as my crosscheck becomes my bad weather bike more and more, leaving a system like this strapped to it year round makes a lot of sense!
thanks for the writeup as my crosscheck becomes my bad weather bike more and more, leaving a system like this strapped to it year round makes a lot of sense!