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Should I get new handlebars?

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Old 01-25-06, 08:06 AM
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Should I get new handlebars?

So I've been commuting for the last few months and realized that I don't always enjoy the upright position on my Trek 7200. I'm already planning on buying a road bike and condemning the 7200 for wet/snow weather commuting but I'm looking for some easy (read: cheap) ways to make my 7200 a bit more enjoyable.

Seems to me that buying some straighter handlebars might be something worth considering. Should I buy something more like this:

Avenir Alloy ATB Flat Bar

It's extremely cheap, so I suppose I could go for it and at worst, I'm out a few bucks. Any thoughts/suggestions on handlebar upgrades?

Thanks
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Old 01-25-06, 08:17 AM
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Looks like they're on sale, right now. Go ahead. Give 'em a try.

If nothing else, swapping the brakes/shifters will be easier, since you won't have any bends to negotiate.
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Old 01-25-06, 08:29 AM
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I converted my bike (drops) to a flat bar commuter and love it. I have had the bars cut a little shorter for darting between traffic, and it feels very responsive and comfortable. I'm personally happy with the change.
Steve

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During:

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Old 01-25-06, 08:51 AM
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I found I do not like the position a flat bar puts my wrists in. I perfer a bar more parallel to the bike rather than perpendicular. With that in mind perhaps one of these bars may give you a more comfortable position:
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=
or
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=

Both are pretty inexpensive and offer a different handlebar position compared to a flat or riser bar.
Just be aware that the moustache bar won't fit your current shifters and levers.
I ride the moustache bar on my commuter and I quite happy with it though I think my next bar may be an On-One Midge:
https://www.on-one.co.uk/index.php?mo...N_position=7:7
But that gets outside the cheap part of your request.
The best option for an easy change is the treking bar from Nashbar.
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Old 01-25-06, 10:42 AM
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I dont think that bar will make much difference. Why dont you adjust stem height by rearranging spacers and angle, and adding bar ends set low to simulate hoods position.
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Old 01-25-06, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by wmgardner
... I'm already planning on buying a road bike ...
If this is the case, I say save your money and spend it on the road bike. Unless of course you just like to work on your bike and change things around, in which case yes, get new bars. First try lowering the position by flipping your stem (or adjusting it down depending on what kind you have) and see if that helps some.
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Old 01-25-06, 01:44 PM
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If you're keeping the Trek, you might as well be comfortable. Bring it to a bike store and ask them to help you with fit. Straight bars may help or flipping the stem to lower the handlebar height could be a cheaper (free) solution. You could also flip the risers so they're lower. Or a longer stem angled downwards to get you in a more aero position, etc.
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Old 01-25-06, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CBBaron
I found I do not like the position a flat bar puts my wrists in. I perfer a bar more parallel to the bike rather than perpendicular. With that in mind perhaps one of these bars may give you a more comfortable position:
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=

Craig
I agree with CBB. The trekking bar gives more positions than any other bar(except perhaps drops). Charlie
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Old 01-25-06, 02:35 PM
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Plenty of good suggestions here. I'll only add that I converted a 7300fx Trek to a fixed gear bike early last year. Last summer, I ditched the riser bars and added nashbar drops ($24.95). I have been happy and comfortable on the bike since -- though I'll admit I don't commute to work. Funny thing, I also bought a cheap Nashbar frame and built up a MTN bike using the cast-off handlebars in the process -- and now I really love the way they feel.
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Old 01-25-06, 03:35 PM
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The 7200 pictured on Trek's web site has an adjustable stem. Do you have it adjusted as low as it will go?

If I wanted as low as I could get on that particular bike (a bike similar to my Sedona DX as far as stem and bars from what I see), I would take 3 steps:

1) Adjust the angle of the stem as low as possible.

2) Insert the stem into the head set as far as possible.

3) Invert the handlebars.

This would get you a little lower than going with a flat bar, and save the couple of dollars in case it still doesn't get you low enough...
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Old 01-26-06, 03:42 PM
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+1 on the flat bar. If you're going to keep it,you might as well like it.

Also,a quick safety bit. When changing positions on adjustable stems,remember to Loctite them afterwards. Learned this lesson on my Trek when it kept moving. Did it right off the bat when I got my Giant,and never had any probs with either since.
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Old 01-26-06, 03:58 PM
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Consider this bar from Nashbar, I have it and there is more of a variety of positioning than a straight bar. Look at my bike set up.
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Old 01-26-06, 05:06 PM
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I've been wondering about setups like this one. Why the slight drop in the bars? It seems the same hand position could be accomplished with less metal by using a shorter stem and bars with no drop.

Clearly the setup in the picture works fine. I'm just wondering why it is done this way.

Last edited by squeakywheel; 01-26-06 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 01-26-06, 09:31 PM
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Ages ago I was training for my first double century and had only a flat bar mountain bike. I used pipe clamps to fasten a set of drops to the standard bars. Worked fine. Got a Biancku Volpe for the double.
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