Salt & Bike damage
#1
Drumming Bicyclist
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Salt & Bike damage
So, the roads are pretty much cleared off in the Boston area now after Saturday night's snow.
I really want to commute by bike tomorrow, but I see white salt all over the place, and I have a 2 week old s/s bike (my only one.) What kinds damage could salt do to the bicycle, and is there anything I can do to prevent it (other than take the car) ? I know some of you out there have a seperate bike you use for winter commuting, but I'm not there yet.
I really want to commute by bike tomorrow, but I see white salt all over the place, and I have a 2 week old s/s bike (my only one.) What kinds damage could salt do to the bicycle, and is there anything I can do to prevent it (other than take the car) ? I know some of you out there have a seperate bike you use for winter commuting, but I'm not there yet.
#2
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WD-40 the heck out of it and lube the chain like crazy. Is it steel? Mine is aluminum and the frame's fine after 3 winters but I've replaced the chain once and the derailleurs are in their final years (obviously not a problem with a SS)
#3
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yeah, steel frame. WD40 only the moving parts or the bottom of the frame too?
[ forgive me, i'm a novice, not too bright...still learning ]
[ forgive me, i'm a novice, not too bright...still learning ]
#4
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yeah, bolts, break pivots, etc. As far as the frame, just don't let the salt muck fester for too long. The paint job should keep it pretty protected. Years ago I knew a guy who siliconed any hole in the frame with no bolt in it, to keep water from getting in. I'm not sure how well that really worked. All in all, if you clean it regularly it'll hold up just fine.
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I-master,
If you're referring to your brand spanking new 925, get a can of JP Weigele's Frame Saver. You spray it inside the frame, through the open seat tube, head tube, bottom bracket, and all drain holes. This will keep your rig from rusting out on the inside. If you accumulate a lot of salt and sand from a ride, give it a nice, gentle sponge bath!
How's the new bike, anywho?
If you're referring to your brand spanking new 925, get a can of JP Weigele's Frame Saver. You spray it inside the frame, through the open seat tube, head tube, bottom bracket, and all drain holes. This will keep your rig from rusting out on the inside. If you accumulate a lot of salt and sand from a ride, give it a nice, gentle sponge bath!
How's the new bike, anywho?
#7
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Originally Posted by flipped4bikes
I-master,
If you're referring to your brand spanking new 925, get a can of JP Weigele's Frame Saver. You spray it inside the frame, through the open seat tube, head tube, bottom bracket, and all drain holes. This will keep your rig from rusting out on the inside. If you accumulate a lot of salt and sand from a ride, give it a nice, gentle sponge bath!
How's the new bike, anywho?
If you're referring to your brand spanking new 925, get a can of JP Weigele's Frame Saver. You spray it inside the frame, through the open seat tube, head tube, bottom bracket, and all drain holes. This will keep your rig from rusting out on the inside. If you accumulate a lot of salt and sand from a ride, give it a nice, gentle sponge bath!
How's the new bike, anywho?
#8
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I have a cheap cheap mtb ($70 cdn) It has seen three winters with almost no maintenance and sits outside at work all day and semi-covered (open sided) all night.
Cables (ss means single speed right - so no cables), rims, spokes and chain are the only things that are rusty that are needed. Cosmetically, the bolts are rust speckled. Oh, and the water bottle cage bolts broke off when I tried to add a cage...
If you have semi decent rims and spokes, those won't be a problem and the chain is just an oiling thing (ie. after two days of rain and salt it "suddenly" starts squeaking and I'll oil it again.)
Cost the same as a month bus pass and lets me forget about it and not chew up my other bike. (Oh yeah, I just replaced the back tire with a used spare I had - all brake pads and chain is still original) And I took it for a 40-50km ride this weekend (spring cleanup/maintenance on the other bike)
Cables (ss means single speed right - so no cables), rims, spokes and chain are the only things that are rusty that are needed. Cosmetically, the bolts are rust speckled. Oh, and the water bottle cage bolts broke off when I tried to add a cage...
If you have semi decent rims and spokes, those won't be a problem and the chain is just an oiling thing (ie. after two days of rain and salt it "suddenly" starts squeaking and I'll oil it again.)
Cost the same as a month bus pass and lets me forget about it and not chew up my other bike. (Oh yeah, I just replaced the back tire with a used spare I had - all brake pads and chain is still original) And I took it for a 40-50km ride this weekend (spring cleanup/maintenance on the other bike)
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Originally Posted by igloomaster
the bike is GREAT. regarding this frame-saver stuff, how do i access the bottom bracket and "head tube" without dismantling everything? it's easy to get the seat off and spray it in there, but what about the other parts? i don't trust myself to attempt to remove the crank and stuff.
#10
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The salt may be a lot worse for your car than for your bike. Another reason to ride in the winter.
Paul
Paul
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+1 and a $1000 bike doesn't depreciate by $5000 the minute you drive off the lot!
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...and if you ride in the winter without a front fender, the road salt that flies into your mouth can replenish some of your lost electrolytes! Mmmm! Salt!
#13
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Originally Posted by GGDub
WD-40 the heck out of it and lube the chain like crazy. Is it steel? Mine is aluminum and the frame's fine after 3 winters but I've replaced the chain once and the derailleurs are in their final years (obviously not a problem with a SS)
I thought I was the only one who does this
I soak the whole bike in WD40 and then wipe the rims
off so the brakes grip. Another thing that works on
dirt bikes is PAM....yep, the non-stick cooking stuff !!
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If the roads are dry don't worry about it.
If the roads are wet then there are lots of things that can be affected.
The external parts of your frame are well protected by the paint but frame saver is a good idea on the internals.
If you do get a scratch cover it up with clear nail polish.
Keep your chain well lubed.
use WD-40 on bolt heads, wheel axles and any other exposed steel that is not painted.
Do not get WD-40 on your rims or brake pads.
Also you can put a touch of grease on the spoke nipples to protect them- this maybe unnecessary on good wheels but my last set became corroded in a winter.
If you keep the bike clean you will notice and rust developing before it becomes a problem. If your like me and seldom clean the bike be prepared to replace parts once good weather returns.
Craig
If the roads are wet then there are lots of things that can be affected.
The external parts of your frame are well protected by the paint but frame saver is a good idea on the internals.
If you do get a scratch cover it up with clear nail polish.
Keep your chain well lubed.
use WD-40 on bolt heads, wheel axles and any other exposed steel that is not painted.
Do not get WD-40 on your rims or brake pads.
Also you can put a touch of grease on the spoke nipples to protect them- this maybe unnecessary on good wheels but my last set became corroded in a winter.
If you keep the bike clean you will notice and rust developing before it becomes a problem. If your like me and seldom clean the bike be prepared to replace parts once good weather returns.
Craig
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Wash your bike at the end of each commuting day, 10 minutes job (a s/s should even take less) with mild DW detergent bucket/sponges/brushes. Back Bay bicycle have a good piece on the subject: How to wash your bike.
Then use a good bike lube on chain and moving parts.
I wouldn't use WD-40.
The frame saver spray is good stuff, apply it at least thru the seat tube if you don't want to dismantle bb and headset, but this is usually used on older steel bikes that have lost or never had inner protection, I don't think your new bike will get rusted inside that quickly.
Using fenders will help messing-up less your bike.
Then use a good bike lube on chain and moving parts.
I wouldn't use WD-40.
The frame saver spray is good stuff, apply it at least thru the seat tube if you don't want to dismantle bb and headset, but this is usually used on older steel bikes that have lost or never had inner protection, I don't think your new bike will get rusted inside that quickly.
Using fenders will help messing-up less your bike.
#16
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Originally Posted by flipped4bikes
The only way to get Frame Saver to coat the downtube is to either go through the BB or HT. Have the LBS do it if you don't have to tools or a mechanic buddy. Your bike is new, and it's worth doing...
#17
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Every couple weeks, I wash my bike with soap and water. Remove sand and road grime from the chain and gears with a tooth brush and mineral spirits. Put car wax on the paint of the steel frame. Oil the chain. Check the tire pressure.
It's been about 3 weeks since I did this. Thanks for the reminder.
It's been about 3 weeks since I did this. Thanks for the reminder.
#18
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i think i might be in the minroity hear with this opinion but:
dude you got a redline, and a singlespeed at that... sack up and start abusing that bike! i swear my old one (a monocog) actually enjoyed not being cleaned or taken care of.....
but it is new, and it is your baby... but if you ever stop caring so much for it it will still love you back, thats why lots of us ride singlespeeds!
only maintenence my crosscheck has seen this winter is oil on the chain (and i had to oil the freewheel when that got loud).
i still do have to pump up the tires regularly. replace the chain twice a year. WHAT A DRAG...
dude you got a redline, and a singlespeed at that... sack up and start abusing that bike! i swear my old one (a monocog) actually enjoyed not being cleaned or taken care of.....
but it is new, and it is your baby... but if you ever stop caring so much for it it will still love you back, thats why lots of us ride singlespeeds!
only maintenence my crosscheck has seen this winter is oil on the chain (and i had to oil the freewheel when that got loud).
i still do have to pump up the tires regularly. replace the chain twice a year. WHAT A DRAG...
#19
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Originally Posted by squeakywheel
How about through the water bottle cage mounting screw holes?
#20
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I ride on salty roads a lot. If it's loose granular salt, it flies around a lot like sand or small gravel, but the stuff that's been dissolved and left behind by evaporating ice (looks like crusty, streaky white scum on the pavement) is fine to ride on as long as you do not get your tires wet. The dry salt usually keeps to it's self, but wet tires will pick it up and then fling it all over your frame.
The beauty is that it dissolves in water. As long as your BB and other critical parts are pretty well protected from the elements, you can gently hose down your frame and all the accumulated salt will just wash off.
The beauty is that it dissolves in water. As long as your BB and other critical parts are pretty well protected from the elements, you can gently hose down your frame and all the accumulated salt will just wash off.
#21
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I really appreciate all the responses here. Thanks!! I'm still learning about all this stuff. I'm a long way away from riding excellence, but I'm getting there!
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In six years of daily winter commuting in salt brine, the only parts I've ever written off due to corrosion is a set of front hub bearings, a chain that was old already, and a V-brake noodle from a bike I never washed. That's it.
Ride. Wash and lube when possible.
Ride. Wash and lube when possible.