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Is it worth it?

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Old 04-04-06, 07:35 AM
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Is it worth it?

So I own a couple of bikes. I got an old school (to me) Schwinn World Sport which I love. It's a great road bike my dad gave and it means a lot to him. He rode it when he was my age (21) across the U.S. and wanted me to have it. I updated the whole thing after a car hit me. Long story short it is a great bike. But here is my problem.

The route to my work gets kind of ruff in some parts and my road is just not suited for it. I do own a cheap Mountain bike with a suspension fork. It was only $200 from Galyans when they were getting bought out by Dick's. By the way Dick's sucks ass. Anywho it was a really good deal for what it is. I think that the extra tire size should provide enough cushion, but there are a lot of hills and I think that the suspension will burn up a lot of my energy. What would you do?

I am thinking about changing the fork, but I really prefer road bike shifter and bar set up. It is more comfortable to me. Should I go through the trouble of screwing around with the front end of the mountain bike, or would considering a cyclocross bike be better. I've only been riding for a couple years and want to start racing this year. But I am inexperienced and would really appreciate some input. Thanks.
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Old 04-04-06, 07:52 AM
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I dislike suspension forks for everything but mountain biking.

How far of a distance is your commute? Hills, flat, potholes, etc?

As for the other question, setting a dollar amount would help provide an answer.

Cx and touring bikes are nice for commutes.
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Old 04-04-06, 08:04 AM
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Can you get some fatter tires on the World Sport? That frame should have some nice tire clearance. If it's as old as the one I had back in the 80's, you'll need 27" tires. Check with local shops or at www.harriscyclery.com for those. I think 27 x 1 3/4 is a pretty good size, the equivalent of 700c x 32.

Another option would be to get slightly smaller, 700c wheels, (find some used?) and then fatter cyclocross tires will almost certainly fit. But, the problem is, your brake pads might no longer reach the rims, and you will have to re-space the rear triangle. Definitely test it out before you buy. And, you'll be spending money on a very old bike. It'd be a fun project, though.

As for racing, well, you can begin on anything, but I think you'll want a more modern bike before too long. Again, you'd want 700c wheels so you can get a spare if you flat.

Whatever you do, don't sell that World Sport. You won't get much for it, but it sounds like it's worth a lot to you. In ten or twenty years, you'll be glad you kept it.
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Old 04-04-06, 08:13 AM
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How ruff is "ruff"?

Padded gloves and a well fitting saddle might make the road bike viable on rough roads. In this case rough means occassional cracks and seems, or hard dirt roads and grass. If you go on trails with serious pot holes and tree limbs, then you probably need the MTB.

Front suspension lets the bike tip forward on hard braking. This can be a problem when stopping or turning hard in traffic or on sidewalks.

Big tires will consume energy. Again, if you take really rugged trails, you may have no choice.
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Old 04-04-06, 12:14 PM
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It's not that the ride is hard on me, but the bike trail I take is pretty beat up. The surface is very coarse, and it has holes and sections where the path is just gravel. I know big tires use energy, but big smooth tires, might take the abuse better then skinny high preasure tires. I don't know if that's true, it just seems to make sense in my head. There is dirt but only for some short sections. I spend 2/3s of my 10 mile trip on this crappy trail. I could spend up to $800 either converrting the Mountain bike into some cross hybrid monster or just buy tires for the road bike. I don't favor one option over the other. Which would you guys choose?
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Old 04-05-06, 07:51 AM
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2/3 of 10 miles and holes is pretty rough. Tho I usually opt for a rigid ride and a little cushion in my tires ... my only trails are limestone and hard dirt and for roughness I have damaged asphalt. Your situation sounds like a little bouncier still. Try the Mt. bike a couple times and see how it goes. Can you lock out the fork or reduce the amount it travels? That might be ideal.

From my stable I'd take my rigid "mt" bike ... 26" wheels, handles nice, has tires that have some tread, but I wouldn't call them knobbies, at 1.95" and 65 psi usually ... that does me my rough rides. It's really my rain bike right now. Or if I'm headed to the woods for a few hours.

I think you can do your mt. bike for less than $800. I'd just get some bar ends for hand positions. Maybe trim the bars narrower first. And then, if you must, a rigid fork. A simple one is only $54.99 at Nashbar (https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...id=&pagename=).
After all, this is a commuter bike. I don't like to spend more than necessary!

Good Luck!
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Old 04-05-06, 10:12 AM
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What hubs suggests is basically what I did to my Hardrock to make it into a very versatile commuter. I used a Surly 1X1 fork ($55), some Performance bar ends along with narrowing my handlebars by 2 inches, and some Planet Bike fenders. The other thing you may want to consider is which bike will take a rack. I personally would not commute any distance over a couple miles with a backpack so a rack to me is a necessity.
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Old 04-05-06, 10:26 AM
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go the cheap route to begin........

then once you have commuted for several months and know you're going to keep it up you can consider spending more money. that's my $.02 anyways

ride on
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Old 04-05-06, 11:14 AM
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>>Whatever you do, don't sell that World Sport. You won't get much for it, but it sounds like it's worth a lot to you. In ten or twenty years, you'll be glad you kept it.<<

Care to elaborate?

I own a mint 1984 Schwinn World Sport which is in excellent condition. I do like it, but have begun riding a bent. (way more comfortable and efficient)
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