Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    3
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    What should I upgrade?

    I'm getting a 06' Lemond Poprad for commuting and light touring, and wanted to upgrade some of the stock components for more durable ones.

    The following parts are stock:

    HEADSET Aheadset, semi-cartridge w/hanger
    BOTTOM BRACKET Truvativ GXP external
    CRANK Bontrager Race Cross GXP 46/38
    FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano 105
    REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano 105
    SHIFT/BRAKE LEVERS Shimano 105
    WHEEL SYSTEM Bontrager Select wheel system
    BRAKES Avid Shorty 4, cantilevers
    HANDLEBAR Bontrager CX Race
    STEM Bontrager Select
    SEATPOST Bontrager Carbon


    Any suggestions or comments?

  2. #2
    Senior Member barba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    4,083
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    they all seem fine to me. i would just ride it. if anything i would go for a new saddle (i know it isn't on the list) and then wheels.

  3. #3
    It's true, man.
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    North Texas
    My Bikes
    Cannondale T1000, Inbred SS 29er, Supercaliber 29er, Crescent Mark XX, Burley Rumba Tandem
    Posts
    2,727
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yeah, ride it till something breaks, or you can determine the most urgent need. No sense in just buying crap just to be buying it - that's a thoroughly decent ride, as is.

  4. #4
    Sensible shoes. CastIron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    St. Paul,MN
    My Bikes
    A few.
    Posts
    8,799
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    BOTTOM BRACKET Truvativ GXP external
    CRANK Bontrager Race Cross GXP 46/38
    Right in the dustbin. Fact is (personally), I wouldn't have bought another bike with a Tru-Vativ (Bonty) crank/BB. Those things are awful. In any case, now that you have it, replace as needed.
    Mike
    Quote Originally Posted by cedricbosch View Post
    It looks silly when you have quotes from other forum members in your signature. Nobody on this forum is that funny.
    Quote Originally Posted by cedricbosch View Post
    Why am I in your signature.

  5. #5
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    3
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Not here yet

    Thanks for the advice.

    The bike btw has not yet arrived. And I thought I would upgrade those parts while they were new for store credit, and pay the difference.

    The saddle is the first thing going (Brooks) and second is the headset (maybe Cane creek). I will add the BB and crank, so any other suggestions.

    I wouldn't have bought another bike with a Tru-Vativ (Bonty) crank/BB. Those things are awful. In any case, now that you have it, replace as needed.
    What BB and crank do you reccomend??

  6. #6
    Senior Member ken cummings's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    northern California
    My Bikes
    Bruce Gordon BLT, Cannondale parts bike, Ecodyne recumbent trike, Counterpoint Opus 2, miyata 1000
    Posts
    5,605
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would prefer a Nitto handlebar. The arvid cantilevers I have have gone two years without problems. Interesting you have so much Bontrager stuff, I have had bad luck with their inner tubes.
    This space open

  7. #7
    Sensible shoes. CastIron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    St. Paul,MN
    My Bikes
    A few.
    Posts
    8,799
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by ogami
    What BB and crank do you reccomend??
    Why not get the full 105 or even ultegra? Fine time to consider the Shimano compact if you're so inclined (probably a better option for a 'cross bike). Since you're doing this pre-delivery, I'd also go for a Thomson post if you have any reservations about the issue piece. And lastly, best time to up the wheelset to something lighter if you wish. Just be careful not to upgrade the sticker past the next model up. It's easy to do.
    Mike
    Quote Originally Posted by cedricbosch View Post
    It looks silly when you have quotes from other forum members in your signature. Nobody on this forum is that funny.
    Quote Originally Posted by cedricbosch View Post
    Why am I in your signature.

  8. #8
    Jet Jockey Banzai's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Leavenworth, KS
    My Bikes
    Cannondale CAAD9 SRAM Red, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Nashbar X-frame
    Posts
    4,011
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I don't think I'd change anything. Get a rear rack put on there, some panniers, and some durable tires. Sounds like a great bike!
    Maybe there's some stuff that's "better" than what's on there, but by that argument, you may as well ditch those POS 105 parts and get Dura-Ace.
    No, wait...that's really not a good idea. Ride the bike for a while before you think of stripping it down.
    I don't have any problem with TruVativ cranks personally, but then again I'm just a commuter and recreational cyclist, so if they aren't as speedy or as perfect as some others, it isn't apparent to me. I just want a trusty bike.

  9. #9
    Sensible shoes. CastIron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    St. Paul,MN
    My Bikes
    A few.
    Posts
    8,799
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    My beef, and it seems the same with many others, is how crappy the Truvativ bits are and how quickly they broke down on my commuter rig--which sees far worse duty than my road bike. Most folks won't notice much difference between 105 and D/A because they are both quality parts to begin with.

    You're spot on with the rack and good tires, though.
    Mike
    Quote Originally Posted by cedricbosch View Post
    It looks silly when you have quotes from other forum members in your signature. Nobody on this forum is that funny.
    Quote Originally Posted by cedricbosch View Post
    Why am I in your signature.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    78
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    If you're looking to spend money consider: a rack or, if you don't like the idea of a rack, look at a Carradice or Baggins bag, seriously consider fenders if your commuting and the Propad will take them (wet feet suck). Spend some money on decent lights, buy a decent waterproof (HA HA) jacket. Other than that, ride it and figure out what YOU don't like on it.

  11. #11
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    3
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by banzai_f16
    I don't think I'd change anything. Get a rear rack put on there, some panniers, and some durable tires. Sounds like a great bike!
    Maybe there's some stuff that's "better" than what's on there, but by that argument, you may as well ditch those POS 105 parts and get Dura-Ace.
    No, wait...that's really not a good idea. Ride the bike for a while before you think of stripping it down.
    I don't have any problem with TruVativ cranks personally, but then again I'm just a commuter and recreational cyclist, so if they aren't as speedy or as perfect as some others, it isn't apparent to me. I just want a trusty bike.

    Yes, I will get a rear rack and panniers for sure, my LBS is having a 20% sale this Sat, and thats when I will make my move.

    I don't really look for better parts just whatever is more durable, and 105 sounds fine to me.

    The reason behind this is, I won't have the chance (leaving the country) to upgrade or change the essential components for at least a few years, and who wants to do that anyway.

    My beef, and it seems the same with many others, is how crappy the Truvativ bits are and how quickly they broke down on my commuter rig--which sees far worse duty than my road bike. Most folks won't notice much difference between 105 and D/A because they are both quality parts to begin with.
    Then I should change it and be done with it now while I can.

    Thanks for the advice and all the comments so far.

    Cheers.

  12. #12
    = cyclist's tan rat_factory's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    the big D in the big T
    My Bikes
    '82 Miyata 310, '87 Scott Boulder, '87 Schwinn Le Tour, '91 Cannondale SM500, '96 Schwinn Clear Creek, '99 Schwinn MesaGS, '05 Rockhopper
    Posts
    297
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ride it untill it breaks unless it is a fit/comfort issue, especially on an all weather commuter.
    '82 Miyata 310, '87 Scott Boulder, '87 Schwinn Le Tour, '91 Cannondale SM500, '96 Schwinn Clear Creek, '99 Schwinn MesaGS, '05 Rockhopper

    ich bin

  13. #13
    52-week commuter DCCommuter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Washington, DC
    My Bikes
    Redline Conquest, Cannonday, Specialized, RANS
    Posts
    1,929
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    In the immortal words of Eddy Merckx, "don't upgrade bikes, bike up grades."

  14. #14
    Banned
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    498
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    105 components are very good quality components for the price, in fact many club racers race on that stuff without complaints and without the urge to upgrade to Dura Ace or Ultrega. The seat upgraded to Brooks could be worthwhile if your going to ride long distances otherwise forget it. Overall I agree with the first poster Barba she (he?) and ToddW, they made the most sense. Save your money and buy optional stuff like what ToddW said, and maybe add lights to the mix if your going to ride after dark.

  15. #15
    Ferrous wheel
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    New Orleans
    My Bikes
    2004 Gunnar Rock Hound MTB; 1988 Gitane Team Pro road bike; 1986-ish Raleigh USA Grand Prix; mid-'80s Univega Gran Tourismo with Xtracycle Free Radical
    Posts
    1,388
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by DCCommuter
    In the immortal words of Eddy Merckx, "don't upgrade bikes, bike up grades."

    ^^
    One thing about living in Santa Carla I never could stomach -- all the damn vampires.

  16. #16
    Senior Member mihlbach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    6,375
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I my experience, what usually happens after an upgrade is that some other part breaks, but you've already spent a ton of money on upgrades. Better wait and see what parts start to go first...then upgrade as needed.

  17. #17
    Al noisebeam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    AZ
    My Bikes
    Cannondale SuperSix, Lemond Poprad. Retired: Jamis Sputnik, Centurion LeMans Fixed, Diamond Back ascent ex
    Posts
    13,974
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have ~4500mi on a stock 2005 Lemond Poprad used for daily commuting, weekend rides and occasional rough trail rides. Only thing I have ever changed are consumables (lube, tires, chain, brake pads)

    I don't know why one would upgrade anything except the tires for road use and seat if not comfortable or otherwise wait until something wears out/breaks.

    Al

  18. #18
    or tarckeemoon, depending marqueemoon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    the pesto of cities
    My Bikes
    Davidson Impulse, Merckx Titanium AX, Bruce Gordon Rock & Road, Cross Check custom build, On-One Il Pomino, Shawver Cycles cross, Zion 737, Mercian Vincitore, Brompton S1L, Charge Juicer
    Posts
    7,020
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'd replace the stem, replace the seatpost if the stock one won't stay put, add fenders, and add my favorite saddle. I usually wait for stuff to break before replacing it unless I get a great deal on a used part.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •