Drops really work.
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Its definitely noticable for me, but getting in those tight tucks really kinda hurt my back/neck. You cant exactly look forward when your doing them. But I definitely notice going faster on a flat empty straight when I really try to sprint tucked vs upright.
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There should be a huge difference. Use this power calculator for a fixed speed, switching from hands on the tops to hands on the bars and see how much more power is required to maintain a given speed. For example, hands on the tops on a flat course for me, 20mph takes 267 Watts according to the site. Hands on the drops, 196 Watts.
So do you have clipless pedals? They give a smoother pedal stroke, for one, thus greater efficiency.
So do you have clipless pedals? They give a smoother pedal stroke, for one, thus greater efficiency.
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I haven't had a bike with drops since the late 80's but I'm getting one soon. I'm looking forward to having hand placement options again. If my speed increases too... bonus!
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Drops? People still use those?
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Originally Posted by jimmuter
I haven't had a bike with drops since the late 80's but I'm getting one soon. I'm looking forward to having hand placement options again. If my speed increases too... bonus!
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Originally Posted by pinkrobe
Drops? People still use those?
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Originally Posted by Loooty
So my question to you folks is, have you noticed similar increases in efficiency? With your technique, posture, or equipment? What else could I try or watch for?
Just make sure your sit bones stay on the back of the saddle. You don't want the saddle nose pressing your, er, soft area.
Keep your lower abdomen relaxed, i.e. do NOT suck in your gut. Shoulders don't contribute much to breathing when you're reaching for the drops. If you tighten your front, you'll soon be gasping and panting. Breath like a little kid - with your tummy.
Riding in the drops feels a bit awkward at first, but once you get used to it, it will be your default.
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I do.
I just added cheap computer a week or so ago, so I could monitor the difference, which is anywhere from 1 to 2 mph depending on headwinds in a tuck (drops or hooks). If the wind isn't getting me, I tend to stay on the hoods, where I still stay pretty low.
I dialed in a good fit, which is key. The neck pain can be remedied by using your eyes, not your neck, to look forward. Try looking at your eyebrows, that will let you keep your neck straight and unbroken, all at the same time. If your optics get in the way, you may want to try some goofy looking "blades" that ride higher, which support this sort of gaze.
I just added cheap computer a week or so ago, so I could monitor the difference, which is anywhere from 1 to 2 mph depending on headwinds in a tuck (drops or hooks). If the wind isn't getting me, I tend to stay on the hoods, where I still stay pretty low.
I dialed in a good fit, which is key. The neck pain can be remedied by using your eyes, not your neck, to look forward. Try looking at your eyebrows, that will let you keep your neck straight and unbroken, all at the same time. If your optics get in the way, you may want to try some goofy looking "blades" that ride higher, which support this sort of gaze.
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Incidentally, you may also find more of a speed increase if your pedaling technique has room for refinment like mine.
I was reading a cycling book and it occured to me that I use the pull up method rather than the pull back halfway through the downstroke method. AKA the wiping dog poo off the bottom of your shoe method.
I gained at least 1mph by switching.
I love the drops. Just can't stay in them very long since my back hates that position. Using the hoods works much better for me. Plus, our MUPs have been very busy lately. I can see better using the hoods and I feel more comfortable in traffic.
I was reading a cycling book and it occured to me that I use the pull up method rather than the pull back halfway through the downstroke method. AKA the wiping dog poo off the bottom of your shoe method.
I gained at least 1mph by switching.
I love the drops. Just can't stay in them very long since my back hates that position. Using the hoods works much better for me. Plus, our MUPs have been very busy lately. I can see better using the hoods and I feel more comfortable in traffic.
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[QUOTE=Loooty]
So for the first time ever I was watching my speed as I rode along a flat stretch. I leaned forward into the drops, and without a change in my cadence, my speed rose more than 1 mph. Then, I focused on spinning in circles and my speed rose again to more than 19mph with no increase in cadence and very little perceptible increase in effort.
QUOTE]
Unfortunately this makes no physical sense... Same cadence, same gear = same speed. You have to spin the gear faster to go faster, they are connected by a chain to the wheel. As long as your cadence and gears remain the same, your speed stays the same... it is drag independent.
So for the first time ever I was watching my speed as I rode along a flat stretch. I leaned forward into the drops, and without a change in my cadence, my speed rose more than 1 mph. Then, I focused on spinning in circles and my speed rose again to more than 19mph with no increase in cadence and very little perceptible increase in effort.
QUOTE]
Unfortunately this makes no physical sense... Same cadence, same gear = same speed. You have to spin the gear faster to go faster, they are connected by a chain to the wheel. As long as your cadence and gears remain the same, your speed stays the same... it is drag independent.
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Originally Posted by DataJunkie
Plus, our MUPs have been very busy lately. I can see better using the hoods and I feel more comfortable in traffic.
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Well... If you have a more efficient (you're putting more power to the pedals) cadence, then your cadence should increase, generaly it's kinda hard to measure these things accurately... it's a crapshoot. However, anything that will cut down on your coefficient of drag will increase your speed when using the same amount of power, so any aero mod that works is generally a good idea. If you want I believe you can actually figure out how much energy it takes to move your bike, and play around with different *Cd's/RR's to see how to minimize the force expended. But you might have to measure the RR of your tires yourself, which may be beyond most people, myself included. Not really sure about that...
*coefficient of drag/rolling resistence
*coefficient of drag/rolling resistence
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Originally Posted by oboeguy
There should be a huge difference. Use this power calculator for a fixed speed, switching from hands on the tops to hands on the bars and see how much more power is required to maintain a given speed. For example, hands on the tops on a flat course for me, 20mph takes 267 Watts according to the site. Hands on the drops, 196 Watts.
So do you have clipless pedals? They give a smoother pedal stroke, for one, thus greater efficiency.
So do you have clipless pedals? They give a smoother pedal stroke, for one, thus greater efficiency.
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Originally Posted by john bono
Just checked that out. On the plus side, when I cruise, I'm putting out somewhere between 500 and 800 watts. On the downside, that only translates to 17mph.
Also, Looty, I didn't read carefully: the others are right. Your chain doesn't magically shrink when you go in the drops so for a given gear your cadence and speed are in a direct linear relationship.
Edit: by "cruise" above I mean "max sustainable", i.e. that's the most he could put out and hope to hold for say at least a half hour (i.e. power at threshhold, all that jazz).
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Maybe I am wrong and it was in fact just slightly downhill, a tail wind picked up, the path was paved more smoothly, or I hallucinated the whole thing!
Last edited by silversmith; 06-13-06 at 12:22 PM.
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The amount of energy required to go a given speed increases at a cube rate of the increase in wind resistance, so if you put out the same amount of energy and decrease your wind resistance . . . yugofastr
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Originally Posted by geog_dash
Breath like a little kid - with your tummy.
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My LBS got worried when they saw my bar position.
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