Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
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Hmm... carbon fiber seat post and no eyelets, not even on the dropouts? It's a steel bike, so you *COULD* braze eyelets onto the frame, but probably not what you had in mind
If you have eyelets on the dropouts but not on the seat stays, that's no biggie. A pair of 1/4" rubber-coated electrical clamps from Home Depot will hold a rack securely to your seat stays.
I know that you can use those seatpost beam racks on bikes without eyelets, but I've never seen a fender that can be attached to a bike without eyelets on the dropouts. Also, sport-oriented road bikes such as yours usually don't have much clearance between the rear wheel and the seat tube. This is usually a problem for adding fenders, and prevents you from using wider tires as well.
Hate to say it, but yours might not be the best bike for commuting (assuming it's got stock components). Even if you can attach a suitable rack, you're gonna have a hard time with fenders and wide tires. If you have a double crank, you'll miss that granny gear after a hard day of work, when you're carrying the extra weight of your pack. Also, low spoke count wheels are just a bad idea for commuting: you're apt to suffer from a broken spokes with anything less than 32 spoke wheels.
I commute on a steel touring bike, an 80s model. That's probably the optimal road bike for commuting, in my opinion. Weights about 25 pounds unloaded, but quite solid, comfy, handles well on rough streets. Used touring-style bikes from the 80s can be had real cheap these days.