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Commuting Bicycle commuting is easier than you think, before you know it, you'll be hooked. Learn the tips, hints, equipment, safety requirements for safely riding your bike to work.

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Old 08-02-06, 03:39 PM   #1
ryanparrish
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Upgrading an Old Bike to make it nicer

I have my beater is there any upgrades I should think about? I am thinking of comfort and a better ride replace some of the old tech with some new tech to make it go faster and smoother. I am already thinking of replacing the platforms with toe clips the bike is almost 30 years old with OEM gear and what type of tyres are available to me because of the american wheel size 27"?
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Old 08-02-06, 03:48 PM   #2
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You spell tires like a brit, but say that 27" is an american size. I'm confused .

I would consider replacing the bottom bracket (or the bearings in there if you have time). Then consider new wheels or repack your hubs, evaluate this based on how true your wheels are, if the nipples are stuck, and how smooth/unsmooth the hubs are. See if your brakes can reach a 700c wheel b/f buying one.
27" tires are easily available on the net or at lbs in a variety of styles.
If you go with new wheels, you may as well respace your frame to 130mm and go w/ current wheels/cogs/shifters.
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Old 08-02-06, 04:01 PM   #3
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what kind of beater do you got and what's your budget? and where's the pics? we can't make suggestions w/o knowing what we're starting with and how much we can spend.
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Old 08-02-06, 04:02 PM   #4
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when not turning or have my hands on the handlebars it seems kinda squirrley. Maybe the head set needs to be cleaned? I like to throw funny things in my writing to make sure people are reading what I wrought be cause I will be called on what I threw in there
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Old 08-02-06, 04:08 PM   #5
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The Beater slash regular commuter is a 78 Nishiki With a SunTour Rear Deraillier Sugino Cranks that say G-9 on them
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Old 08-02-06, 04:10 PM   #6
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If you have steel rims, upgrade to Al. Smooth slicks are nice for easier rolling. A nice comfy seat.
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Old 08-02-06, 05:35 PM   #7
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27" tires usually means 27 x 1 1/4 or 27 x 1 1/8 there's a few tires out there made in this. I needed something as close to punctureproof as possible, so I got continental gatorskins. pricey but nice.

I'd guess from the age of the bike its got a one-piece crank. you can get a product called kneesavers which will adapt the 1/2" pedal threading to newer 9/16 pedal threading to fit clipless pedals. that's $45 usually.

your other option would be to get a new bottom-bracket and crankset along with pedals, but that usualy needs a $25 threading adapter. it would be more expensive in the long run to do this but you could choose a chainring to help get the heavier bike up the hills.

one thing I'd generally recommend is to overhaul (clean up and re-grease) the hubs I did this to my '77 schwinn and it helped tons.

good luck
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Old 08-02-06, 06:05 PM   #8
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Thanks for the help I purchased some teflon spray lub going to give the drive train a good spray and then wipe off will look into cleaning some stuff up my main goal is 1. Reliability 30 something years parts cant last forever 2. smooth ride I like to get there fast but please don't beat me up 3. performance fast is cool

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Old 08-02-06, 06:32 PM   #9
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I recently reclained my old Trek Multitrack 700 from my friends garage (After 7 years). Need less to say it need a bit of help. I raided my parts bin......after I was done with it the only thing that had not been replaced was the rack and the headset..........of course I don't have anything in the parts bin anymore. I would say well worth it if the frame is in good shape, like mine was.
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Old 08-02-06, 06:35 PM   #10
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I think I speak for everybody here when I say, the coolest upgrade to any bike is tassles.
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Old 08-02-06, 06:36 PM   #11
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Yeah it us a good frame the little surface rust on the forks thats about it I will check the seat post and see if there is rust in there might take some WD-40 and a rag and see what I can uncover. Could I replace the forks with something which is wide enough for fenders in the front? or is that not possible?
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Old 08-02-06, 07:59 PM   #12
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That picture is just not big enough or clear enough But I can tell you have plenty of room there for fenders, which come in a variety of widths. 30 year old parts can and do last a long time and increase with value, just check out EBay. I'ld overhaul everything first and see what you're dealing with as far as condition goes, then come back and ask the question again.

And remember, big clear pics!

edit: DOh! Just clicked on the picture link. Everything looks good to me, got a 3 piece crank, room for fwnders, etc. Just overhaul everything and enjoy your ride!

editedit: Might wanta think about a drop bar for aerodynamics( and flat bars give me tendonitis in my elbows on long rides) but not a must do.

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Old 08-02-06, 09:17 PM   #13
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got the frame with basic cleaning with some WD-40 and a rag cleaned all the dirt of put a teflon spray on the drive train. I will have to ride it and see how it goes should I take off the derailler and clean it out? Is there anything in the Bottom Bracket that needs to be cleaned? and is there anything in the headset that might need to be cleaned?
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Old 08-02-06, 09:18 PM   #14
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Might want to get a Brooks leather saddle for comfort. Either a B72 or B66 if you keep the bull horn bars or a B17 if you go to drop bars.
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Old 08-02-06, 09:28 PM   #15
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A Brooks is a good suggestion that has been on the back of my mind for somethign I want would a carbon fiber seat post give me a better ride then a metal?

Last edited by ryanparrish; 08-02-06 at 09:45 PM.
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Old 08-02-06, 09:55 PM   #16
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Some Cool Parts







Does this use a shifter and what kind? I was thinking fixie, but because it is what all the cool kids are doing I might get a seperate bike to dink arround with




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Old 08-03-06, 03:53 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yes
You spell tires like a brit
You mean correctly?
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Old 08-03-06, 06:27 AM   #18
ryanparrish
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Kinda like this:


Tyres
Cheques
litre
metre
theatre
etc....
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