Sawtooth

I am commuting on an early 1980's peugeot road bike converted to a single speed and am racking my brain trying to figure out how to get both knobbie tires (27") and full fenders onto it for this winter. I have two sets of quick release fenders but really want to run full length fenders for better coverage. The bike will handle either knobbies or fenders, but not both without adjustment. After many anxiety filled hours, I think I have found a solution

If I am running at the back of the dropout I can fit both the knobbie and the fender but my chain length/gearing won't allow it. The cheapest solution would probably be to run the chain long and get a Surly Singleator. I would not mind this but it still leaves the problem I am having with the particular tires I have always having a bulge in them that I can feel every time the tire goes around (and that drives me nuts). I am considering just getting a 700c wheelset and some cyclocross tires. 700c would give me much more selection for tires. It would also give me about 4 mm more of clearance that I desperately need.

In the case that the 700c wheels do not give me sufficient clearance, here is my next plan:
1. Run 27" knobbies
2. Run no back brake (currently getting better stopping power with both levers leading into the front caliper via an old upper Gyro cable) and put the freddy fender over the top of the seat bridge and then down to the stay bridge at the bottom.
3. Run the axel in the back of the droput and a chain tensioner.
4. On the front, run the fender only up to the brake and not under it (attach it at the same points on the fork eyelets, but don't rotate the fender up and under the fork crown. A new L bracket or something will have to be added to the front end of the fender to allow attachment to the fork because the current bracket is 8 inches or so behind the point that will now be contacting the fork (it could sit on top of the the brake bolt). This will take some jerry rigging and will not allow me to have any fender sticking out the front part of the fork but it will also result in the benefit of 8 inches of additional length on the bottom end (a good trade, IMO).

Any ideas I have missed would be appreciated.

Novakane 

I'm not sure removing your back brakes is a very safe option, no matter the rider skill. I'm not questioning your ability to stop using only the front caliper, I know it can be done with some practice, heck most of the time for minor speed reductions that's what I hit first. That being said - if you are going at a decent clip and something darts into your path and all you've got is a front brake you're at serious risk of either not having enough stopping room/time or stopping too quick and doing an endo.

I'd go with the 700c's if those 4mm will give you the clearance you need. Better to spend the money on new wheels than end up hospitalized from a tricky setup. Failing that, I think your font fender/bracket idea might work on the back as well. Alternatively maybe you could get a rear rack with a flat bottom (or install a piece of plastic there) which might give you a little more room for playing with the split fender for clearance without putting the wheel out of position and mucking with the chain?

Phantoj

Have you considered Reacharounds?

https://www.rivercitybicycles.com/pro...roducts_id=613

CBBaron

I also recommend going with 700C wheels. There are a number of 32mm cyclocross tires available that should work with fenders.
I do not recommend removing your rear brake for winter riding unless you go fixie. On dry pavement a front only brake is the fastest way to stop but on wet or snowy roads you will need the rear brake to slow you down without losing traction on the front.
It may be possible to split your fenders at the brake bridge and create a mount to rejoin them in front of and behind the constricting point. Here is one example from RiverCity bicycles


Ofcourse it should probably also work with plastic.
Here is a link to the required hardware.
https://www.rivercitybicycles.com/pro...roducts_id=613
Craig

grolby

You are correct that removing the brake is a bad idea, but for the wrong reasons. If something darts into your path and you can't stop in time with just a front brake, you won't have a prayer whether you have a rear brake or not. The front brake alone will stop a bike just as fast as both brakes together when you apply it to get the maximum amount of braking power. Done correctly, you won't do an endo, and you will be safer than trying to brake hard using both brakes. There are cases where the bike is carrying a large enough load that this isn't true, and maximum braking is achieved with both brakes, but for the most part this is the case. I would recommend using the front brake alone for most of your stopping, slow, quick or otherwise.

Running a freewheel bike without a rear brake IS a bad idea, though. There are situations where using the front brake alone or even at all is a bad idea, such as very slippery roads or terrain, very bouncy terrain, ice and snow, and so on. You really need a way to slow the rear wheel in these situations, either with a brake or a fixed gear. I think that some of the other suggestions you've gotten in this thread are probably the best way to go. None of them are ideal, but that's what you have to live with when you have a bike without good fender clearance.

jstream

Those have got to be the prettiest fenders I've ever seen! With plastic, you could probably trim them to fit in much the same way.

ghettocruiser

FWIW, I find that, at least compared to mud, snow and slush dosen't NEED much clearance, because the chainstays scraping it off the tire offers little resitance compared to the effort needed to just ride through it.

If the tire fits at all, I'd say true up the wheel and go with it.

Sawtooth

Excellent thoughts. I had not considered the loss of traction from braking on slipery surfaces using only the front brake. That alone throws a serious wrench into my plan.

The reach arounds and splits are not something I had considered. I will give them some serious thought. Those wood fenders make me drool and would match my bike so well. I am more convinced than ever now that this can be done well. I may use a reach around on the front and not split the fender, but create my own front portion. That would still give me the additional length down the rear of the front wheel (given that it does not hit on speed bumps and such).

Thanks so much. I love these forums!!!!

marqueemoon

The only concern I would have is toe overlap. Otherwise the split fender thing should work fine.

ImprezaDrvr

I've never seen finder splits before and they're a very elegant solution to a problem for sure. Plus, the folks at River City got to mention 'reacharound' repeatedly in the write up.

NormanF

650B will give you full fender coverage. It can be done on 1980s road bikes with horizontal dropouts. Peugeots lend themselves admirably to commuter conversion. See my bike picture for an example.

tarwheel 

Would SKS Race Blade fenders provide enough coverage for you? I've got some on my De Bernardi, and they are simple to install and remove. Not completely full coverage, but pretty close.

mparker326

This thread is back from the dead . . .