The Opposite of Bike Porn....
09-02-06, 08:40 AM
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The Opposite of Bike Porn....
Ladies and Gents,
I'll give the questions before the intro:
1. Would you keep this bike or get a new second bike that would fill the beater/winter bike role?
2. If you would keep it, what would you do to/for it?
This Bridgestone had been my trusty ride for about 12 years before I got a new bike this spring. Until about 3 years ago this bike got nothing but abuse. It even lived outside for 2 years in Cambridge. I think I've replaced the drive train twice and I put a new rear derailleur on it last fall. This bike has a lot of rust on it, especially on the chainstays and the front dropout (hope you can see that in the pics). I'm wondering if I should even keep it or get a "new beater." If keep it, I'm wondering what to do for it. If I wanted to go whole hog, I could start by having it sanded down and repainted, but by the time I spend that type of money, I could easily get a new bike. I think I originally got this bike for $250-$300 anyway. The sentimental value, though...priceless.
Why post in the commuting forum? I spend 95% of my riding commuting 15 mi RT to work. You all have a much better idea of what I need in a 2-bike stable to ride in the Northeast for as much of the year as possible. Look forward to your thoughts.
I'll give the questions before the intro:
1. Would you keep this bike or get a new second bike that would fill the beater/winter bike role?
2. If you would keep it, what would you do to/for it?
This Bridgestone had been my trusty ride for about 12 years before I got a new bike this spring. Until about 3 years ago this bike got nothing but abuse. It even lived outside for 2 years in Cambridge. I think I've replaced the drive train twice and I put a new rear derailleur on it last fall. This bike has a lot of rust on it, especially on the chainstays and the front dropout (hope you can see that in the pics). I'm wondering if I should even keep it or get a "new beater." If keep it, I'm wondering what to do for it. If I wanted to go whole hog, I could start by having it sanded down and repainted, but by the time I spend that type of money, I could easily get a new bike. I think I originally got this bike for $250-$300 anyway. The sentimental value, though...priceless.
Why post in the commuting forum? I spend 95% of my riding commuting 15 mi RT to work. You all have a much better idea of what I need in a 2-bike stable to ride in the Northeast for as much of the year as possible. Look forward to your thoughts.
Last edited by newbojeff; 09-02-06 at 08:21 PM.
09-02-06, 08:57 AM
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That's a lot of rust on the fork. I'd hedge my bets and put a new fork on it. Maybe get a price quote on having the frame sandblasted and powdercoated.
Anyway, you could get some Nokian Mount & Ground studded tires and make a snow/ice bike out of it
Other things that might be good: Wide-range cassette and new chain. Rebuild rear wheel with DT or Wheelsmith spokes if they're cheap off-brand ones (for reliability). Overhaul the hubs and headset using marine-bearing grease. Get a straighter handlebar, unless you really like that one 
Get a rear reflector and a good rear blinkie.
Anyway, you could get some Nokian Mount & Ground studded tires and make a snow/ice bike out of it
Other things that might be good: Wide-range cassette and new chain. Rebuild rear wheel with DT or Wheelsmith spokes if they're cheap off-brand ones (for reliability). Overhaul the hubs and headset using marine-bearing grease. Get a straighter handlebar, unless you really like that one Get a rear reflector and a good rear blinkie.
09-02-06, 09:10 AM
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Not sure of what your commute looks like But depending on the frame quality? I would go single speed or internal hub, fenders and rattle can paint job ( a decent looking one) and keep on riding. I have a 1972 Raleigh Sports that I have had since the early 80's. It was retired in the mid 90's after years of abuse. I refuse to get rid of it. It is due for a freshening here shortly. I also have a Motobecane Nomade that has been around since the late 70's that is getting converted to an English style club racer.
Old bikes never die, they just get reworked around my place. It would take major damage to make me give up on one of my old faithfuls. BTW at last count I had 10-12 bikes, most of them rideable
Aaron
But depending on the frame quality? I would go single speed or internal hub, fenders and rattle can paint job ( a decent looking one) and keep on riding. I have a 1972 Raleigh Sports that I have had since the early 80's. It was retired in the mid 90's after years of abuse. I refuse to get rid of it. It is due for a freshening here shortly. I also have a Motobecane Nomade that has been around since the late 70's that is getting converted to an English style club racer. Old bikes never die, they just get reworked around my place. It would take major damage to make me give up on one of my old faithfuls. BTW at last count I had 10-12 bikes, most of them rideable Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
09-02-06, 09:24 AM
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That is a very nice steel frame and it would make an exceptional loaded touring bike. You have eyelets for racks front and back and fenders as well!
I would strip it of all it's components and paint it. Take it down to bare metal and remove loose rust. Purchase Klean Strip ERC22-12 oz. Aerosol Rust Converter and spray the entire frame following the directions on the can. https://www.kleanstrip.com/special.htm This will stop all rust and provides a stable surface for your paint. Use a good quality automotive paint. You will not need much so you can use a large can of touchup paint. I would add racks front and back as well as fenders. Painting the racks the same color, as the frame is easy as well making for a custom factory built look.
I would strip it of all it's components and paint it. Take it down to bare metal and remove loose rust. Purchase Klean Strip ERC22-12 oz. Aerosol Rust Converter and spray the entire frame following the directions on the can. https://www.kleanstrip.com/special.htm This will stop all rust and provides a stable surface for your paint. Use a good quality automotive paint. You will not need much so you can use a large can of touchup paint. I would add racks front and back as well as fenders. Painting the racks the same color, as the frame is easy as well making for a custom factory built look.
09-02-06, 09:30 AM
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If if ain't broke...don't fix it. For commuting...I'd say that rig is PERFECT. Maybe, maybe replace the fork.
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09-02-06, 08:42 PM
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Ya like the arc bars!? I got those because we were living in a high-theft area in Chicago at the time. What self-respecting thief would grab a bike with arc bars? If I'm going to keep it, I would definitely be getting flat bars with bar ends.
I'm a little concerned about the strip-and-repaint approach as that might wind up costing as much as a comparable new bike.
My commute is 15 miles RT over some rolling, suburban hills, with one big 3/4 mile descent/ascent (so I don't see going SS or fixed). The last mile of the ride is very urban.
I'm a little concerned about the strip-and-repaint approach as that might wind up costing as much as a comparable new bike.
My commute is 15 miles RT over some rolling, suburban hills, with one big 3/4 mile descent/ascent (so I don't see going SS or fixed). The last mile of the ride is very urban.
09-02-06, 08:53 PM
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If you strip and repaint the frame yourself, it won't cost as much as a new bike unless it's from the factory reject section at Walmart.
+1 To everyone's suggestions of strip and repaint yourself, replace the fork, framesavr inside and repack the hubs and bb and replace the cables if you need to. Maybe some new wheels if you find some cheap replacements. Do the work yourself and it won't cost anywhere near a new bike. It's served you well thus far, might as well hold on to it and keep on riding it.
+1 To everyone's suggestions of strip and repaint yourself, replace the fork, framesavr inside and repack the hubs and bb and replace the cables if you need to. Maybe some new wheels if you find some cheap replacements. Do the work yourself and it won't cost anywhere near a new bike. It's served you well thus far, might as well hold on to it and keep on riding it.
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09-02-06, 11:51 PM
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If it were my bike I would probably spot treat the rust, get a new rack, slap some fenders with mudflaps on it, and ride it into the ground.
I'll be the lone vote against stripping and repainting yourself I guess. Stuff like this always takes longer, costs more, and turns out worse than I expect. Plus there will be all those great fumes to breathe. No thanks.
You might be able to get it sandblasted and powdercoated for not too much money.
I'll be the lone vote against stripping and repainting yourself I guess. Stuff like this always takes longer, costs more, and turns out worse than I expect. Plus there will be all those great fumes to breathe. No thanks.
You might be able to get it sandblasted and powdercoated for not too much money.
09-03-06, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mwrobe1
If if ain't broke...don't fix it. For commuting...I'd say that rig is PERFECT. Maybe, maybe replace the fork.
was one of the best ever imported. I'd keep fixing & painting this bike 'till the frame wore out if
it were my bike. NOTHING you can buy today will ride as smooth as that old' Bridgestone steel
frame will, mate. At least not at a workingmans price.
An you wanna ditch it....
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My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
09-03-06, 09:10 AM
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I agree with the fenders and mudflaps bit. Much of the nastiness looks like road grunge getting on the bike. Is That a Nightsun Team Issue Headlight?? I have been using one for 20 years. Being metal rather than plastic they wear better and will not melt when you put a set of 50 watters in them. Put it on a GOOD bike and scrap the rest 
.
.
09-03-06, 02:12 PM
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I'm mentally stuck right between Marqueemoon and Tightwad. I DO realize that it is a Bridgestone steel frame. I do want to hang on to it and I do want to strip and paint it myself. My experience has also been -- not doing this sort of thing often -- that it takes much longer and is more expensive and a hassle than I expect.
Ken, that is a Nightsun Team Issue Headlight. I love it. With summer light fading and this bike very likely getting an overhaul, the light is about to get moved to my road bike. A running joke for the past few years has been that if my bike got stolen, I'd be really pissed that they took my light...
Ken, that is a Nightsun Team Issue Headlight. I love it. With summer light fading and this bike very likely getting an overhaul, the light is about to get moved to my road bike. A running joke for the past few years has been that if my bike got stolen, I'd be really pissed that they took my light...
09-03-06, 02:22 PM
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Plenty of BOBs out there who would be more than happy to take it off your hands. Search up eBay and you'll see what I mean. Not many Bridgestones out there, so people pay a premium for them. Supply and demand...
09-03-06, 04:59 PM
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The only rust that is a concern is the front fork. Unfortunately, it looks pretty bad to me, though there's lots I cant see. Its in a bad high stress spot too. Replacing the fork ($85 -carbon ) would cost the same, enhance the value of the bike, and not risk killing its rider. The rust on the stays is very minor and not worth concern.
09-03-06, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by newbojeff
I'm mentally stuck right between Marqueemoon and Tightwad. I DO realize that it is a Bridgestone steel frame. I do want to hang on to it and I do want to strip and paint it myself. My experience has also been -- not doing this sort of thing often -- that it takes much longer and is more expensive and a hassle than I expect.
Let me offer this to help you take that first timid step to restoring your Bridgestone for many
years of service yet to come. You are very lucky to own this bike.
https://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/lifestyle/newbike.htm
Best of luck on your rebuild.
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My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
09-05-06, 07:54 AM
#17
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Tighwad, cruel. Ken makes it sound sooo easy. I'm almost there....
I can already hear my wife yelling at me down in the basement when I disassemble and reassemble the bike and in the garage when I'm stripping and painting for 2-4 weeks...
I can already hear my wife yelling at me down in the basement when I disassemble and reassemble the bike and in the garage when I'm stripping and painting for 2-4 weeks...
09-19-06, 11:07 AM
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$%!@$. The whole thread may be moot. I got a few powdercoating estimates last week, but I disassembled the bike this weekend and couldn't get the BB off. I think it is the original 1993 stock BB.
My LBS tried an air hammer and it didn't budge. I left it with them. They're going to try heating/torching the BB shell.
My LBS tried an air hammer and it didn't budge. I left it with them. They're going to try heating/torching the BB shell.
09-19-06, 01:10 PM
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I've used heat with success. They'll get it off.
09-19-06, 01:40 PM
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They just need more leverage. A 20' cheater bar should do the trick.
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HHCMF - Take pride in your ability to amaze lesser mortals! - MikeR
We demand rigidly defined areas of doubt and uncertainty!
HHCMF - Take pride in your ability to amaze lesser mortals! - MikeR
We demand rigidly defined areas of doubt and uncertainty!
