Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 20 of 20

Thread: Bike Lock

  1. #1
    Banned. Elusor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    596
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Bike Lock

    What is a good bike lock for a commuter bike, in the city? I would use a bike post that sort off resembles the symbol for the Gk. Phi (golden ratio), a circle with a line down the middle

    I would like to protect as much of the parts as well, and not just the bike from being stolen, i.e. seat, front wheel, back wheel, etc... I guess if some thief-bastard-punk-idiot wanted to steal my handlebars, or pedals, or crank, I would have limited defence against him-thief-bastard!

    Would this be any good?

    It is a 1.6 mm thick wire: looks like it does the trick. I don't know of many thiefs who carry scissors around with them. Most just want to pull the quick release, grab and run.

  2. #2
    . blickblocks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    3,862
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    That lock looks horrible...

    From what I've learned, the best way to secure your bike is to use the smallest U-lock you can get, locking your rear wheel to your frame, and then an armored cable with an integrated lock to secure your front wheel to your frame and to whatever you're securing it to. You could also throw in a lighter weight, unarmored cable without an integrated lock, loop that through your saddle, and the end loops through your mini U-lock. You can just keep these locks locked up to where you're going to park your bike.

    Personally I just use an armored cable lock because my rear wheel and seat aren't worth much, and because I'm parking in a safe area.

    Remember, nothing is theft proof. You only have to be more theft-deterrent than the next bike.

  3. #3
    Banned. Elusor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    596
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    suggestions for armoured cable?

  4. #4
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    6,957
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    http://www.mechbgon.com/lock

    What kind of bike is it? edit: I had asked about where you'll lock up, but your mention of the bike posts sort of answers that. Don't lock the bike to the circular part of it, since some of those can be broken by bike thieves using a piece of wood as a lever. Lock to the pole part of it. Better yet, if you can find two strong, permanently-anchored poles 1 meter apart, you can do the two-locks-on-two-poles method like the last photo on the page above. Make sure at least one lock is top-notch, such as a Kryptonite New York 3000 U-lock.
    Last edited by mechBgon; 09-17-06 at 08:08 PM.

  5. #5
    . blickblocks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    3,862
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Elusor
    suggestions for armoured cable?
    I got an Avenir "R-Mor Plated Cable Lock" for $12 on sale at my LBS. It's 39" and twice as thick as any non-armored cable they had. I'm guessing the plating isn't very expensive for the manufacturera to add (since they don't cost more than regular cables), but they just aren't as popular because of the added weight.

    You see, with the plating, it's like having two locks. Bolt cutters can cut through the cabling inside, but not the plating on the outside. It's the same logic of having a U lock and cable lock, a theif would need two different tools to hack both. It's ingenious.

  6. #6
    Tragically flawed Canonet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    My Bikes
    Felt F55 (2006), Univega Modo de Volare (2000)
    Posts
    98
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Elusor
    What is a good bike lock for a commuter bike, in the city? I would use a bike post that sort off resembles the symbol for the Gk. Phi (golden ratio), a circle with a line down the middle

    I would like to protect as much of the parts as well, and not just the bike from being stolen, i.e. seat, front wheel, back wheel, etc... I guess if some thief-bastard-punk-idiot wanted to steal my handlebars, or pedals, or crank, I would have limited defence against him-thief-bastard!

    Would this be any good?

    It is a 1.6 mm thick wire: looks like it does the trick. I don't know of many thiefs who carry scissors around with them. Most just want to pull the quick release, grab and run.
    You're right, thiefs don't carry scissors. They'll carry bolt cutters, hacksaws, and things that will make very short work of cables three times the thickness of that puny thing. Do not leave your bike unattended for even a minute if that is your only defence.

  7. #7
    Banned. Elusor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    596
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    please don't steal my bike!

  8. #8
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    13
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'm confused - I thought the extra protection needed to be on the front wheel, since it's so easy to take. I've been using a u-lock on the frame and front wheel, with a cable lock through the rear wheel and front wheel as well. Should I reverse the wheel configuration?

  9. #9
    Banned. Elusor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    596
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    so um... like armor the back then? and u-lock the front?

    what about the seat it is quick release too

  10. #10
    Banned. Elusor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    596
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    yeah

    i guess it would be the back wheel since it is worth more and the frame are both together the most expensive

    but what off my seat? i am going to add one, with suspension so it would be more expensive than the back wheel

  11. #11
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    6,957
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Elusor
    but what off my seat? i am going to add one, with suspension so it would be more expensive than the back wheel
    A suspension seatpost might not be a good idea on a commuting bike that you're going to leave out in public. Can you live without that?

    Otherwise, one idea would be to use a Kryptonite New York Chain as one of your locks. It's good enough to use as a primary lock if you lock to something that they can't lift the bike off it (like a streetlight pole) and you can put the lock itself (the mini U-lock) through the seat rails to prevent casual theft. It should be long enough to get the frame & rear wheel if the pole isn't super-big.


    put the little U-lock through your seat rails as well as both ends of the chain

  12. #12
    . blickblocks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    3,862
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by zafracita
    I'm confused - I thought the extra protection needed to be on the front wheel, since it's so easy to take. I've been using a u-lock on the frame and front wheel, with a cable lock through the rear wheel and front wheel as well. Should I reverse the wheel configuration?
    If someone steals your rear wheel, they get away with your freewheel/cassette too. If you are just using a light cable lock, I'd suggest you reverse that.

  13. #13
    . blickblocks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    3,862
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by mechBgon
    A suspension seatpost might not be a good idea on a commuting bike that you're going to leave out in public. Can you live without that?

    Otherwise, one idea would be to use a Kryptonite New York Chain as one of your locks. It's good enough to use as a primary lock if you lock to something that they can't lift the bike off it (like a streetlight pole) and you can put the lock itself (the mini U-lock) through the seat rails to prevent casual theft. It should be long enough to get the frame & rear wheel if the pole isn't super-big.


    put the little U-lock through your seat rails as well as both ends of the chain
    Ah, that's clever, seems much safer than the U+mini cable method.

  14. #14
    Not fluent in English Runaway Cyclist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Brazil
    Posts
    74
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by mechBgon
    put the little U-lock through your seat rails as well as both ends of the chain
    Here's another way of locking up a bike with a chain and a mini u-lock:



    Does anyone else lock up like this?
    You can correct my English mistakes.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Zero_Enigma's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    North of the 49th Parallel (GPS grid soon)
    My Bikes
    MTB Peugoet Canyon (forgot the model), Nikishi? roadbike, MTB custom build,
    Posts
    1,775
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Elusor
    please don't steal my bike!
    If you use that yellow small thin cable lock I'm going to steal your bike and lock /YOU/ to it and hand a rope with some food on a stick in front of you with the keys to the lock I locked you up to.

    Seriouly tho, I would go with a U-lock. For the cost of 5 McDonald meals you can get a decent starter U-lock or a cheap Ulock at Wallys and a low threat chain.


    Zero_Enigma

  16. #16
    Commuter First newbojeff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,286
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I leave a Kryptonite U-Lock at work and carry around a cable lock and lock up a la Sheldon Brown (though I do put the rear wheel and frame inside the U).

  17. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Overland Park, KS
    My Bikes
    2006 Specialized Hardrock Sport
    Posts
    132
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I use the Sheldon Brown method with an Onguard Brute STD lock.

  18. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Cleveland
    My Bikes
    Pugsley, fixie commuter, track bike
    Posts
    1,567
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    A the minimum I would use a good U-lock to secure the rear wheel and frame (or just the rear wheel inside the frame) to a secure object and a long 10mm cable to secure the front wheel and seat.
    Your frame is probably the most expensive part of your bike followed by the rear wheel so these two should be secured well. The seat and front wheel are less expensive but are usually only attached with a quick release making an easy target. Using a decent cable to secure these discourages the quick hit thieves. If you are in an area like NYC that has a very high bike theft problem then you may want to have two independent locks. This gets to be pretty heavy so if you usually lock up in one place it is suggested you leave your lock at the location you lock up.
    I think in many cities the problem is not nearly as bad and a lesser (lighter and less expensive) U-lock like an Onguard Bulldog or Kypronite Std may be sufficient.
    Craig

  19. #19
    Banned.
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana
    My Bikes
    84 Trek 660 Suntour Superbe; 87 Giant Rincon Shimano XT; 07 Mercian Vincitore Campy Veloce
    Posts
    4,766
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The Krypto Chain lock would be the best lock to use as ONE of your locks. You should also use a second lock like the Krypto Forgetaboutit(sp?) U bolt lock and NOT the mini and here's why: when you lock a bike with a U lock you need a large enough U bolt so you can remove the front wheel, place it next to the rear wheel and lock up through both wheels and around the frame to a strong and secure stationary object, you can't do that with a mini.

    The lock the original poster pictured is a toy that could be defeated with a pair of pliers, or a hammer, or a small saw, or wire snips.

    BUT if your really worried about your bike being stolen because maybe it's expensive, then consider buying a cheap Wallyworld or used bike to commute on instead, because any lock can be defeated if a pro wants your bike.

    The NY Chain by the way is heavy, you may consider leaving the chain locked around the object you lock your bike to if you can get permission to that.

  20. #20
    Banned. Elusor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    596
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    where do i get the onguard locks in ontario kanada with the armours?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •