Surly Cross-Check wheel swaping
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Surly Cross-Check wheel swaping
Is it going to be easy to switch from the stock Deore hubed wheels to a 105 hubed wheels and back? I understand the Cross-Check can use either.
While I'm here asking this, can I use a SRAM or 105 9 speed cassette without a problem with the stock Tiagra derailleurs?
Also, would I most likely need to adjust the brakes when switching between the Alex and Mavic OP's?
Semi-horizontal w/adjusters give you single-speed compatibility and wheel base adjustability. Our Gnot-Rite spacing (132.5mm) allows either 130mm road or 135mm MTB hubs
Also, would I most likely need to adjust the brakes when switching between the Alex and Mavic OP's?
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I would ask over in the mechanics forum.
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The wheel swap in back will be no problem. Adjusting your brakes might or might not be necessary, but easy to do. Even the derailleur should work fine, as long as the gearing on both wheels is within said derailleur's spec's - i.e. 11-28 teeth. Although you might have to adjust it as well.
The only thing that might become an issue would be the bottom bracket spindle width. While there are exceptions; generally, MTB hubs are 135mm wide while modern road hubs are 130mm, and they ususally call for different width bottom bracket spindles. So if you throw a road wheel on the back of your Crosscheck you might have chainline problems, depending on how wide a spindle your crank is mounted on. Then again it might work alright. But this is something you'll neet to watch.
DanO
The only thing that might become an issue would be the bottom bracket spindle width. While there are exceptions; generally, MTB hubs are 135mm wide while modern road hubs are 130mm, and they ususally call for different width bottom bracket spindles. So if you throw a road wheel on the back of your Crosscheck you might have chainline problems, depending on how wide a spindle your crank is mounted on. Then again it might work alright. But this is something you'll neet to watch.
DanO
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Originally Posted by DanO220
The wheel swap in back will be no problem. Adjusting your brakes might or might not be necessary, but easy to do. Even the derailleur should work fine, as long as the gearing on both wheels is within said derailleur's spec's - i.e. 11-28 teeth. Although you might have to adjust it as well.
The only thing that might become an issue would be the bottom bracket spindle width. While there are exceptions; generally, MTB hubs are 135mm wide while modern road hubs are 130mm, and they ususally call for different width bottom bracket spindles. So if you throw a road wheel on the back of your Crosscheck you might have chainline problems, depending on how wide a spindle your crank is mounted on. Then again it might work alright. But this is something you'll neet to watch.
DanO
The only thing that might become an issue would be the bottom bracket spindle width. While there are exceptions; generally, MTB hubs are 135mm wide while modern road hubs are 130mm, and they ususally call for different width bottom bracket spindles. So if you throw a road wheel on the back of your Crosscheck you might have chainline problems, depending on how wide a spindle your crank is mounted on. Then again it might work alright. But this is something you'll neet to watch.
DanO
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If the distance from the drive side lock nut to the first cog is more or less the same on both wheelsets then you should be ok (assuming road triple vs mtb triple chainline). The difference in chain angle will be neglible compared with the change in angle as the chain moves across the cluster.
The spacing of 9 speed cassettes and the derailleur movement per index click is identical on road and mountain groupsets so parts will be interchangeable.
I say go for it. Any issues should be able to be fine tuned using the barrel adjuster.
The spacing of 9 speed cassettes and the derailleur movement per index click is identical on road and mountain groupsets so parts will be interchangeable.
I say go for it. Any issues should be able to be fine tuned using the barrel adjuster.
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Originally Posted by radical_edward
If the distance from the drive side lock nut to the first cog is more or less the same on both wheelsets then you should be ok (assuming road triple vs mtb triple chainline). The difference in chain angle will be neglible compared with the change in angle as the chain moves across the cluster.
The spacing of 9 speed cassettes and the derailleur movement per index click is identical on road and mountain groupsets so parts will be interchangeable.
I say go for it. Any issues should be able to be fine tuned using the barrel adjuster.
The spacing of 9 speed cassettes and the derailleur movement per index click is identical on road and mountain groupsets so parts will be interchangeable.
I say go for it. Any issues should be able to be fine tuned using the barrel adjuster.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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The Mavic Open Pro wheels work fine. No adjustments were needed at all. The brakes are kind of close to the tires, but not enough to worry about blowing a tire at all. I like this bike even more now that I can switch from knobbies to road tires in just a couple minutes. I need to get another cassette to make it easier though.