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  1. #1
    Senior Member CigTech's Avatar
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    Very Long Commute Club: week 30

    Hi Guys and Gals,

    Mars is out this weekend moving. So He asked me to stand in for him.

    This week lets talk Lights. What type head light do you use? Whats the output wattage? How does it works for you? And have you made any mod's to it?
    May your feet keep move'n with the wind to your back.

    CigTech

  2. #2
    Wher'd u Get That Jacket? flythebike's Avatar
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    L&M ARC, works just awesome. Rear light this week will be the Dinotte tail light.

    This will be my last week spending an hour plus towing my son a day or two a week as my wife got a new job that will allow her to pick him up at the end of the day. I'm excited because that will let me get in another day or two/week of commuting and also vary my ride choice a bit.
    WeBlog: http://flythebike.blogspot.com
    "Then know, that I have little wealth to lose. A man I am, crossed with adversity; My riches are these poor habiliments, Of which if you should here disfurnish me, You take the sum and substance that I have." Shakespeare: The Two Gentlemen of Verona
    Calfee Dragonfly Record, Calfee Luna Fixie T/A, Level, Campy Cervelo P3SL Campy, Lemond Poprad Campy, Fisher X-Calibur

  3. #3
    ♋ ☮♂ ☭ ☯ -=(8)=-'s Avatar
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    I have a CygoLite..Im not sure the model but it cost about 70.00.
    Its dual beam and it works very well but the switchery seems
    sort of cheap and after only a year of light use I have a bad feeling the
    male end of the battery cable that goes into the bulb unit is about to
    fail because the lite flickers when the cable gets jiggled.
    I have have fashioned a quick-release bracket out of an old seat reflector
    bracket so I can move it to any of my bikes.

  4. #4
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    Mine is strictly a homebrew setup using the Optronics driving lights for housings. I run a 10w narrow flood and a 20w spot off of a 12v SLA and I switch between them as needed. I'm now on my third housing design and I think this one might be the best setup. I can get 3 hours of run time in normal use, if I stuck to just the 10w I could probably go longer. I really like the setup. The 10w has plenty of spill and gives you a nice sphere of visibility. The 20w is seriously bright which is great when riding under the street lights or on really dark pieces of trail. I think all the parts cost me maybe $50. Given my case redesigns I might be up to $75 total in materials.

    I'm going to try to squeeze in a little recreational ride tomorrow with any luck. Looks like it should be a decent week for the commute.
    God grant me the serenity to accept the hills and winds I cannot change;
    courage to challenge the cagers I can; and wisdom to know the difference.
    (with apologies to AA)
    24 mi. roundtrip -- Maryland suburbs to DC and back.

  5. #5
    Senior Member CigTech's Avatar
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    Well you know I can't just buy a off the self system and leave it alone. So What I got was a cheap Nite Hawk Nomad Headlight ($19.95 from NashBar). The system comes with a frame bag and is powered by 4 D-Cell batteries. They say it will run 12 hours. But I find that after only 3 to 4 hours the light is so low that it will not let you see. But I bought it for the housing abd bag only.

    I replaced the battery with a 6V 6.5 amp/hour battery from Home Depot. Now it runs 7 days on one charge. Using it about 1 hour per day. And the battery is just under 6v. The battery will just fit in the frame bag. Then I replaced the the 5w halogen bulb with a 10w halogen blub. So I ended up paying about 40.00 for a very good system that will run 4 hours without dimming at all.

    Now try to find a 10w system that can match that for $40.00 and I'll buy it and leave it a only.

    As for a tail light. I am making a Flasher/stop light for the rear light. it will flash until you hit the breaks. then it goes stady till the breaks are released. The back to flashing it goes. I'll have to post pictures of it later.
    May your feet keep move'n with the wind to your back.

    CigTech

  6. #6
    Senior Member kgatwork's Avatar
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    Depending on the bike. Right now, I've got Optronics housing a 35 watt solux 4700 spot beam carrying a heavy 12 volt 10ah SLA in my trunk rack on my wet bike. On my other bike I use a 20 watt/ 10 watt Halogen Nitehawk Dual bottle battery setup. But that all about to change as I just received my 30watt Trailtech MR16 HID. Can we say bright Just need to get a few more parts, like a quick release bar mount and Li-On battery and charger because I'm getting tired of lugging along the heavy 12v10ah SLA.

  7. #7
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    Cig, sounds like a good setup. I'm with you, the price for lights seems ridiculous so a little bit of a DIY challenge is well worth it. In my daydreams I contemplate a more elaborate system using various combinations of the newer LEDs, which would go longer on the same battery. Since I'm happy with what I have I'm in no rush to build a new system.

    Kqatwork -- quite a bright spot you are -- have you ever been spotted by satellites? I think 20w is bright, but 35w halogen has got to be like sunshine bright.
    God grant me the serenity to accept the hills and winds I cannot change;
    courage to challenge the cagers I can; and wisdom to know the difference.
    (with apologies to AA)
    24 mi. roundtrip -- Maryland suburbs to DC and back.

  8. #8
    Senior Member CigTech's Avatar
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    Did a fun ride this morning of 24 miles. Here a photo I took of the computer just after the ride.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    May your feet keep move'n with the wind to your back.

    CigTech

  9. #9
    Senior Member kgatwork's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marylandnewbie
    Cig, sounds like a good setup. I'm with you, the price for lights seems ridiculous so a little bit of a DIY challenge is well worth it. In my daydreams I contemplate a more elaborate system using various combinations of the newer LEDs, which would go longer on the same battery. Since I'm happy with what I have I'm in no rush to build a new system.

    Kqatwork -- quite a bright spot you are -- have you ever been spotted by satellites? I think 20w is bright, but 35w halogen has got to be like sunshine bright.

    Marylandnewbie: 35 watts isn't bright enough for my poor night vision and the speeds I travel, thats why I finally broke down and bought the 30watt HID from Trailtech. Lets face it though no matter how bright we make ourselves, the cagers generally see through us.

  10. #10
    Muscle bike design spec robtown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CigTech
    Hi Guys and Gals,
    This week lets talk Lights. What type head light do you use? Whats the output wattage? How does it works for you? And have you made any mod's to it?
    Multiple lights.
    Cygolite dual halogen helmet $60 down from $80 I use this as the main light on my vintage road bikes or as an add-on to the modern bike. Spot and Narrow flood 6v / 10w, NiMh water bottle battery. Originally 6w but I blew that out using an 8.4v battery. Great for staring down cagers. This is sufficient by itself.
    Nitehawk SLA $20 down from $60 6v 10w handlebar light - One occasionally used as backup, and another for my son's road bike.
    Little handlebar 3 LED blinky - to be seen only, may help you walk out
    Big power DIY $200+ [Li-ion expensive!] Two optronics housings side by side off my aerobars. I have multiple MR16 halogen bulbs in separate housings for exchange. They rate 20w - 35w, 10degree - 24 degree, 3000K - 4800K (some solux). A couple are the high-efficiency Phillips brand. These are controlled by a lightbrain computer. A side momentary push button switches 1st light 33%, 66%, 100%, then adds 2nd light 66%, 100%. It overvolts at 13.2v until battery voltage drops. I normally use a Li-ion 18v 6.125 ah battery. I also have 2 8.4v RC NiMh packs in series. With 20w/35w lights going cars wait for considerable time at intersections I haven't measured duration on a charge but at 33% a 20w lasted over 6 hours. Only the Li-ion battery has lasted.

    Korval is Ships
    See my Hyperlite 411 it's the photo model on OutRiderUSA web page

  11. #11
    Zinophile tibikefor2's Avatar
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    Well I did my first fixed gear commute this morning, quite nice to be back on the fixie.

    L&M ARC HID front, Cateye LD600 and Blackburn Mars 3.0 for the rear.
    Tibikefor2

  12. #12
    train safe buelito's Avatar
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    nice to see that ti is back on a 'real bike'...

    I ride a trailtech HID-- have had it 2 weeks and love it. Prior to that I had a 10w halogen NightHawk raptor, that cost $39 at Performance a few years ago. I actually had two of them--figuring at that price I could afford to have a backup for when I 'forgot' to recharge the battery. A little heavey, but pretty good--until I tried the HID. Unbelievable difference-

    I am off to Costa Rica for a month tomorrow--so no commuting for a month! However, I will be riding. My wife and I are building a hotel on the southern Pacific coast, which should be open for business in mid-December. (shameless plug-- maryselva.com)

    have a great November-- I will post on occasion.

    train safe-

  13. #13
    Pedal Power!
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    I've got Eurolight Twin halogen lights up front, a 10W and a 5W, with a Hella TP1000 3 LED blinky. Hella 960 3 LED blinky on the back and i will be getting a second back LED soon cos i'm neurotic about the first one failing and me never knowing.

  14. #14
    Senior Member balto charlie's Avatar
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    Didn't need any lights this AM. One of the perks of DSL. Warmest commute in a while. Last FRIdays ride home was a wet one. Arrived home to find the boiler was down. Burned wood all wknd waiting for the repair man. BAD news!! The boiler is dead! Luckily this weeks temps are mild while we go heatless.

    Lights: Helmet mounted Performance 10W. Decent, 4 years old, they back their product. I am building 2 systems for my 2 bikes. I am using a 50W Optronics hooked to a 12V 7AMP hr, clunky battery. Damn that is heavy. It's really one brightlight tho' I will be changing the light for a homemade 35W spot with 12 degree spread. I should get a longer burn time. The other bike will have 2-20W halogen(spot and flood), switches and same battery. I use PVC piping for the housing(cost $1.00usd). All told I will have 3 lights, switches for under 35.00. The batteries are free.

    I'm off to buy a boiler

    Buelito: I didn't see any bf.net discounts on your costa rican hotel

  15. #15
    Zinophile tibikefor2's Avatar
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    balto:

    He has number of moutain bikes that cen be used while staying there.

    I hope to take my family down next winter.
    Tibikefor2

  16. #16
    Wher'd u Get That Jacket? flythebike's Avatar
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    There is some fine fair weather for commuting today! I'm hoping I can do the next three days too as I have Friday off. Could be a little tough as I did two hard rides this weekend. Will have to concentrate hard on pacing myself.
    WeBlog: http://flythebike.blogspot.com
    "Then know, that I have little wealth to lose. A man I am, crossed with adversity; My riches are these poor habiliments, Of which if you should here disfurnish me, You take the sum and substance that I have." Shakespeare: The Two Gentlemen of Verona
    Calfee Dragonfly Record, Calfee Luna Fixie T/A, Level, Campy Cervelo P3SL Campy, Lemond Poprad Campy, Fisher X-Calibur

  17. #17
    Senior Member CigTech's Avatar
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    FlyTheBike: I know what you mean by having to pacing your self. When I do a hard ride it seems to carry over to my commute for the next week or two.
    May your feet keep move'n with the wind to your back.

    CigTech

  18. #18
    Zinophile tibikefor2's Avatar
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    Fly: The easy answer is fixed gear.

    Transitioning to a new season
    By Joe Friel
    UltraFit.com
    10/26/2004
    With the end of the race season and the approach of winter, it's time to shift your training emphasis to Base period objectives.
    In the last few months you've been singularly focused on race-specific training with workouts that simulate the conditions of your most important races. As the season closes down, I find that it's very difficult for athletes to make the switch from the Build to Base period.

    For one thing, athletes don't want to give up their hard-won race fitness. For another, they find it difficult to make the changeover.
    I witnessed a good example of this phenomenon this morning on my long, easy ride. I was passed by a dozen roadies who were flying with a few women and a junior in tow. All were huffing and puffing, some more than others. This was your typical Sunday morning hammer session.
    Most of the riders in this group are well on their ways to ruining their 2005 season and it's only November 2004! It's a shame, but I see athletes do this every year.
    Let's start with the first issue: Can you maintain your race fitness from the 2004 season until the first A-priority race in the spring of 2005? No, you can't. It's impossible.
    Fitness is transient. The finer elements of race fitness, such as anaerobic endurance and sprint power, take just a few weeks to fully develop -- maybe six to eight. Once you bring these elements to a peak they begin to fade no matter how hard you try to hold onto them indefinitely.
    Those elements that take the longest to initially build stay with you the longest after the race season ends. Endurance is a good example of this, but even it fades after a while.
    Attempting to maintain race fitness from one season to the next will only lead to lower levels of race fitness in the subsequent season -- if you aren't first stopped by the overtraining syndrome or burnout.
    Now for the other issue: Athletes find it difficult to change their training at the end of the season to something that is altogether different. Maybe it's a feeling of guilt from doing less. Or maybe they're just in a rut.
    Or perhaps they have no idea what they are doing in training and so rely on the local group rides, runs or swims to provide "structure." Whatever the reason, continuing to do the very same hammer sessions all winter will not be productive.
    All of this raises the issue of what you should do in the Base period of training as you start preparing for 2005.
    For the athlete whose next "A" race is 20 or more weeks away, there are three elements of training you should be working on now or after you've had a few weeks to "transition" from your last race. They are:
    Endurance
    Long, slow workouts are best for this. "Slow" means you are at least at 50 percent of VO2 max, which is around 60 percent of your max heart rate, or about 40 to 50 beats below your lactate threshold heart rate.



    The physical purposes of these sessions are to 1) improve or maintain heart, lung and blood function, 2) train the muscles to rely more heavily on fat for fuel, and 3) improve the efficiency of the slow-twitch muscles.
    Endurance training also provides a nice mental break from intense training.

    Force
    Weights, general strength training, low cadence/big gear rides and "easy" rides in the hills all are good strategies for improving force.
    As for weights, my Training Bible books describe in great detail a weight-room periodization plan.
    As for the other workouts to improve force, be sure to make them aerobic. No hammering. Just steady efforts against resistance. For swimmers, paddles and drag devices (T-shirts, carpenter's apron, etc.) also improve force as does working on a Vasa Trainer.
    Speed skills
    This is probably the least understood aspect of training, yet the one that most athletes stand to gain the most from.
    "Speed skills" refers to being able to efficiently make the movements of the sport at the speed required of the sport. For example, almost anyone can efficiently pedal a bike at 50 rpm on a flat surface in a low gear. But if you want to turn a high gear at 100 rpm, that's a different story.
    This takes a lot of training to develop. The starting place is with being able to turn the cranks efficiently at 100 rpm in a low gear. Or being able to run and swim efficiently at race speed.
    The workouts here revolve around drills. For cycling, these may be one-leg pedaling, spin-ups or fixed-gear riding. Runners can do high-turnover, relaxation strides. For swimmers the possibilities for drills are almost limitless. Swimming has done more with speed skills development than any other endurance sport.
    It won't be easy to give up your Sunday morning hammer session in favor of a long, easy workout, force work or drills. But by doing this you'll find that your race fitness next season develops to a high level -- much higher than if you insist on doing the same things week after week.
    Tibikefor2

  19. #19
    Muscle bike design spec robtown's Avatar
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    Monday, my long commute. 29F this morning - I wore my Gill Morph jacket - nice, and my new Chillblocker sealskinz gloves, not nice. The sealskinz are waterproof but not warm enough, I had to stop and put liner gloves on. I guess they'll be my 40'sF gloves. Three hours later, after class, I rode back to work in the high 50'sF. This evening, after 5pm, It was 60F and dropping quickly (with 50F cold spots on trail). The temperature range this time of year is very challenging.
    Korval is Ships
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  20. #20
    Wher'd u Get That Jacket? flythebike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CigTech
    FlyTheBike: I know what you mean by having to pacing your self. When I do a hard ride it seems to carry over to my commute for the next week or two.
    Pacing: Well, using my new zones from my fitness test, today I rode in with the heart rate monitor. I concentrated on staying in zone 1. The effect of this kind of ride should be to promote recovery.

    Some of the people I see commuting day after day are riding as hard as they can on that given day, all the time. These kind of people tend to burn themselves out after awhile, their bodies get run down, they crash or get sick, this kind of thing. They can't ride slower than they possibly could. They are like a car redlining all the time - they can't pace themselves. On my slow days these kind of people pass me all the time. But if they lined up to race me next April, I would destroy them. If all you do is go 19 miles an hour all the time, that is all you can do. But if you 15mph one day and 25mph the next (for a little while anyway), you build speed.

    Then I rode to class, just a few miles, after work. Just for fun I did a couple jams to see how I was feeling. I felt like 2 or 3 times better than this morning. So that zone one ride really did promote recovery. If I can do the same thing tomorrow, then I get the miles in, keep promoting a high metabolism and I can work on my form - I'm trying to develop greater efficiency. So I'm pedaling a high cadence. And focusing on my left leg, which I know is weaker and lazier than my my right. And I'll keep dropping weight. I've lost eight pounds now in the last eight weeks.

    I'm tired from riding hard this weekend, but rather than take off completely, this week I'm going to just try and ride slowly and keep the same pace, back off on the hills, and let my body recover.
    WeBlog: http://flythebike.blogspot.com
    "Then know, that I have little wealth to lose. A man I am, crossed with adversity; My riches are these poor habiliments, Of which if you should here disfurnish me, You take the sum and substance that I have." Shakespeare: The Two Gentlemen of Verona
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  21. #21
    Wher'd u Get That Jacket? flythebike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tibikefor2
    Fly: The easy answer is fixed gear.
    You're prechin' to the choir Tix2. I have a fixed gear: http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2005/mar/MarkKerlin.htm

    Bike is totally different than in that pic now. Has a front brake, a wound up fork, different stem, saddle, etc. I will probably start fixed gear rides next week.

    The problem is that riding to work my route has many ups-and-downs so riding fixed demands good fitness and the willingness and ability to fluctuate the heart rate quite a bit, or else walk up hills, or tolerate a very small gear at other times. Until my wife starts her new job next week, I don't have the ability to ride fixed - I have to pull my son home in a Burley if I ride other than on Mondays, and that is too hard to do fixed - right now anyway.

    And I love that piece by Friel. I preach that to many racers on our team all the time. Last year, most of them ignored me, rode their tails off all winter, and then proceeded to have their worst racing seasons ever - the elite team being the notable exception. They rode hard, but steady and had a great year.
    WeBlog: http://flythebike.blogspot.com
    "Then know, that I have little wealth to lose. A man I am, crossed with adversity; My riches are these poor habiliments, Of which if you should here disfurnish me, You take the sum and substance that I have." Shakespeare: The Two Gentlemen of Verona
    Calfee Dragonfly Record, Calfee Luna Fixie T/A, Level, Campy Cervelo P3SL Campy, Lemond Poprad Campy, Fisher X-Calibur

  22. #22
    Zinophile tibikefor2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flythebike
    You're prechin' to the choir Tix2. I have a fixed gear: http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2005/mar/MarkKerlin.htm
    Fly:

    If interested I will be starting some fixed gear centuries in November. Gear will either be a 42x16 or a 42x17.

    Nice ride this morning, I can not wait for this afternoon, as it is supposed to hit 75F.
    Tibikefor2

  23. #23
    Wher'd u Get That Jacket? flythebike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tibikefor2
    Fly:

    If interested I will be starting some fixed gear centuries in November. Gear will either be a 42x16 or a 42x17.

    Nice ride this morning, I can not wait for this afternoon, as it is supposed to hit 75F.
    I don't know that I can stand that duration fixed yet, could do about three hours perhaps, though. That gearing sounds about right though, my smallest would be like 44x17 or 18. I'm gone from 14-26 in San Diego, bringing a bike, might bring the fixed, probably should...
    WeBlog: http://flythebike.blogspot.com
    "Then know, that I have little wealth to lose. A man I am, crossed with adversity; My riches are these poor habiliments, Of which if you should here disfurnish me, You take the sum and substance that I have." Shakespeare: The Two Gentlemen of Verona
    Calfee Dragonfly Record, Calfee Luna Fixie T/A, Level, Campy Cervelo P3SL Campy, Lemond Poprad Campy, Fisher X-Calibur

  24. #24
    Senior Member Scorer75's Avatar
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    Excuse me, I've seen this thread going for a while but I'm not sure what a "very long commute" is.

    What is considered a very long commute?

  25. #25
    Senior Member balto charlie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flythebike
    There is some fine fair weather for commuting today! I'm hoping I can do the next three days too as I have Friday off. Could be a little tough as I did two hard rides this weekend. Will have to concentrate hard on pacing myself.
    The worst thing about pacing is getting past by others. Gotta swallow your pride. I use to always hammer then finally, I was spent. I had nothing left. Now I spin easy most days, crank when the legs ask for it.

    todays commute was good, tonight 70's!! brought some shorts just in case.

    Someone emailed me this link. She is one dedicated commuter that is not affraid of confrontation.
    http://www.zonaeuropa.com/20061027_1.htm

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