More 3 speed hub questions
04-06-07, 10:05 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by rykoala
With a 23 up front and a 19 tooth cog that gives a 41 gear inch top gear. Seems a bit low.
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Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
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My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
04-06-07, 10:06 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by rykoala
OK. This brings up another question:
The shifting cable housing is made to be attached to the frame and therefore is susceptible to a flexible frame causing it to go out of adjustment. It would seem that this could be remedied by building a bracket that attached under the axle nut and gave an anchor point for the cable housing that always stayed in the same place even if the axle shifted in the dropouts.
Is that even possible?
The shifting cable housing is made to be attached to the frame and therefore is susceptible to a flexible frame causing it to go out of adjustment. It would seem that this could be remedied by building a bracket that attached under the axle nut and gave an anchor point for the cable housing that always stayed in the same place even if the axle shifted in the dropouts.
Is that even possible?
My Raleigh Compact RSW (sort of a folder
) is a three speed SA AW hub. The cable is routed all the way to the rear stay before it gets a fulcrum point. That bike flexes a lot under my size and weight. But I have never had it go neutral on me. But I don't hammer that bike either, because I am more concerned with the something else giving way. But I think you may be onto something there, but again flexing or constricting the cable anywhere causes issues. On my wife's Colt I set the bike up and it road fine, first time she put her removable wicker shopping basket on the handle bars she had trouble with the shifting. The basket was moving the shifter cable and causing a misalignment. I shortened the cable housing, readjusted the cable tension and all is well.Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
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"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
04-06-07, 02:09 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by rykoala
OK. This brings up another question:
The shifting cable housing is made to be attached to the frame and therefore is susceptible to a flexible frame causing it to go out of adjustment. It would seem that this could be remedied by building a bracket that attached under the axle nut and gave an anchor point for the cable housing that always stayed in the same place even if the axle shifted in the dropouts.
Is that even possible?
The shifting cable housing is made to be attached to the frame and therefore is susceptible to a flexible frame causing it to go out of adjustment. It would seem that this could be remedied by building a bracket that attached under the axle nut and gave an anchor point for the cable housing that always stayed in the same place even if the axle shifted in the dropouts.
Is that even possible?
The bracket pictured shows it is also possible to build such a bracket to keep tension the same no matter if the axle does shift.
04-06-07, 03:47 PM
#29
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Hey look like I'm not the only genius to think of such a genuis bracket.
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04-10-07, 06:43 AM
#30
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DahonSteve,
Rather than hoping maybe the old AW you had and the AW-NIGs built in this millenium are different hubs, just go look at the exploded diagrams of the two mechanisms - the differences are easy to see.
Best,
TCS
Rather than hoping maybe the old AW you had and the AW-NIGs built in this millenium are different hubs, just go look at the exploded diagrams of the two mechanisms - the differences are easy to see.
Best,
TCS
04-10-07, 07:41 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by tcs
DahonSteve,
Rather than hoping maybe the old AW you had and the AW-NIGs built in this millenium are different hubs, just go look at the exploded diagrams of the two mechanisms - the differences are easy to see.
Best,
TCS
Rather than hoping maybe the old AW you had and the AW-NIGs built in this millenium are different hubs, just go look at the exploded diagrams of the two mechanisms - the differences are easy to see.
Best,
TCS
05-10-07, 02:21 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by Dahon.Steve
I didn't think the bike was that old (2002 - purchased 2006 - sold) when it sold. Maybe they made improvements in the past five but I guess you'll just have to see for yourself. It's not the end of the world if the gear shifts into neutral because you'll just have to spin and not stand on the pedals.
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/pdfs/S...2005-05-25.pdf
The parts in question are adjacent to the label 'Figure 4'. You will recognise the planet cage and gears at once and the clutch is the item above it with shaped slots to engage the pins.
Last edited by EvilV; 05-10-07 at 01:36 PM.
05-10-07, 04:00 AM
#33
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If this was me, I'd make 75 gear inches my middle gear. That way the top gear slipping on climbs in 75 would not be a problem, you'd be able to go 1/3rd down from that for climbing, plus you could go UP for descending. If you wanted.
05-10-07, 11:30 AM
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If this was me, I'd make 75 gear inches my middle gear. That way the top gear slipping on climbs in 75 would not be a problem, you'd be able to go 1/3rd down from that for climbing, plus you could go UP for descending. If you wanted.
You make you middle gear your most common, you low gear for long hils, and your high gear for descents. The neutral "issue" some talk about is between 2nd and 3rd gear, so if you are only approaching your hills in 2nd (with the possiblity of going to 1st), you won't even have to worry about slipping into neutral.
