Chef asked where I got my parts so here it is........http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...f?disp_order=7
You will need two of them at $74 so about $148 for just the Nitto parts. Then you will need a Stach Bar which is not very expensive.
just A R'off grip shifter on one side , a grip shifter like Bell on the other,
fitted Trekking bars on my Bike Friday.
I hang my Abus Chain lock on one side , with a loop , toe strap ,
near the bottom of the tall steering mast..
to keep it from swinging around much.
Do you have taillights facing forward? That seems to be a new trend. Can you explain the advantage of taillights in the front? I would expect that they can confuse other road users about which way you're heading.
Ah, I didn't see clearly. The seatstays are unusual, so I thought it was a fork.
But I have seen some folks riding with taillights in front lately. I don't get it.
Are those Schwalabe Big Apple's? I thought it was the front fork also.
I still have to buy a computer and another headlight. ;)
I would agree that having a flashing or steady red light up front is likely to confuse somebody about if you're coming or going, but I also imagine it's better than nothing. (Actually, I wouldn't mind seeing some tail lights made that emit white light, like white Planet Bike Super Flash -- that would be good for front mounting to be seen during the day, and as a supplemental "see me" light at night. Planet Bike does make a PBSF that's all white -- but it still emits red light.)
As for why these folk go for a red tail light up front rather than a white light ... got me. Still, it's better than the nothing that many go with, so I don't give them any grief over it.
Dashboard on my Twin Six. I use a Dashboard Genie for the HRM and GPS. They are only mounted in that configuration when I'm exploring a new route. Otherwise the DBG comes off and the HRM goes on my wrist. The computer is really only used for the odometer, and it isn't measuring speed or distance accurately, so it may come off in the near future.
If it's always off by a specific percentage, make sure the right number is put into the computer for the wheel size. If it is, then find the percentage that it's off by (compare to the GPS, ideally over a few mile, relatively straight stretch) and then adjust the number by that percentage (if the computer reads 10% too low, increase the number by 10%) and try again. It's pretty easy to come up with a computer that's accurate to 0.2% or so by doing this two or three times.
If the amount it's off by varies, it's probably the sensor or wires. Make sure the magnet gets close to the sensor, and move it down closer to the hub if possible (things move more slowly there, so they're more likely to work.) Check the wire to make sure there's no worn spots, and make sure the contacts in the base for the computer are clean.
Now, if the thing is wireless, then all bets are off :)
1995 Trek 820: Utility, touring, commuter
1990s(?) Univega mixte: fixed gear around-towner
Here's an update on my "dash", which pales by comparison to some in this thread!
No need for bike computer, music station, GPS since my android smartphone does it all.
Except for the cellphone case, there's a air-horn, simple bike bell for pedistrians and a extra flashlight mount which doubles as a MD80 video camera base when turned upright. Also my Blackburn Flea 2.0 light is placed on the left of the stem (not shown).
here is my *** mount dash. it's been holding up for over 75 miles as of today on some bumpy bike paths( lots of tree roots). *** mount opposite the compass .
It's pretty sparse, but does the job in the evening!
This is the most stuff that will be up there at any one time. We have great bike routes and some of them head WAY out there. I record them on video and topographic GPS often. The thermometer is just sexy.