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Old 06-30-07, 12:49 PM   #1
georgiaboy
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Shimano Hub Generator...

I am happy with my Cateye headlamp for now...

However, going into fall then winter I will be using lights more...

Thinking about installing the Shimano DH-3N71 hub generator onto my Open Pro front wheel..

Any opinions...

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Old 06-30-07, 12:52 PM   #2
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I tooled around on a bike at the shop equipped with one. I was impressed with the lack of friction from the front hub (my recollection was that on earlier hubs had a distinct drag). The light that it gave off was adequate if not generous.
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Old 06-30-07, 12:57 PM   #3
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my bike came with one and matching lights front and rear.

very happy with the rear led, the front light however is not that bright. good at making you seen but can't really see far with it.
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Old 06-30-07, 12:58 PM   #4
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Thanks, I was reading where they were trying to decrease the drag to compete with the Schmidt hub.
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Old 06-30-07, 01:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barba
I tooled around on a bike at the shop equipped with one. I was impressed with the lack of friction from the front hub (my recollection was that on earlier hubs had a distinct drag). The light that it gave off was adequate if not generous.
Do you know how much labor is needed to switch out the hub? It is just a matter of removing one and installing the other? Or do you have to rerun the spokes, more or less building a whole new wheel?
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Old 06-30-07, 01:03 PM   #6
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Odds are that the spoke length needed for the new generator hub will be much different than the hub it is replacing. I would count on buying a full count of new spokes for the wheel plus labor (unless you are skilled at wheel building).

Edit: If it was me I would just have a whole new wheel built around the generator. That way you can swap it in and out when it is not needed.
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Old 06-30-07, 01:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barba
Odds are that the spoke length needed for the new generator hub will be much different than the hub it is replacing. I would count on buying a full count of new spokes for the wheel plus labor (unless you are skilled at wheel building).

Edit: If it was me I would just have a whole new wheel built around the generator. That way you can swap it in and out when it is not needed.
Great advice.

No doubt, the cost would be close to building a wheel.
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Old 06-30-07, 02:42 PM   #8
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Get a new wheel built with the generator in it. Hand-built wheels are a good idea even if there is no generator hub installed. I've had my hub for four years now -- best thing I did for my bike, hands down.

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Old 06-30-07, 03:30 PM   #9
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I've got the 3N30 that comes stock on the model of Breezer I have. No problems. I don't think the drag is really all that noticible, but then I'm not trying to go super fast or anything.
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Old 06-30-07, 03:38 PM   #10
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If you purchase a hub dynamo you may want to build an LED lighting system for it. The electronic design work has already been done at this link.
http://www.pilom.com/BicycleElectron...moCircuits.htm
Bulbs used for bicycle dynamo systems are relativity expensive and burn out after 20 or so hours of use. In any case you should always carry a spare. Using an LED light eliminates filament burn out and replacement problems. Always carry a backup lighting system if nothing more than a simple flashlight you can clamp to the handlebar somewhere.
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Old 06-30-07, 03:43 PM   #11
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I am using the same hub, w/ disc mount, with Lumotec lighting. Couldn't be happier with it. The dynohub is quite a bit larger in diameter than any regular front hub, so new spokes will be needed
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Old 06-30-07, 04:08 PM   #12
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I am using the same hub, w/ disc mount, with Lumotec lighting. Couldn't be happier with it. The dynohub is quite a bit larger in diameter than any regular front hub, so new spokes will be needed
For a radially-laced wheel, a change of 10mm in the hub's spoke-hole diameter corresponds to a change of 10mm in the spoke length.

But for many wheels with a 3 or 4 cross pattern, a change of 10mm in hub's spoke-hole diameter means a change of 0 to 2 mm in spoke length.
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Old 06-30-07, 04:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n4zou
If you purchase a hub dynamo you may want to build an LED lighting system for it. The electronic design work has already been done at this link.
http://www.pilom.com/BicycleElectron...moCircuits.htm
Bulbs used for bicycle dynamo systems are relativity expensive and burn out after 20 or so hours of use. In any case you should always carry a spare. Using an LED light eliminates filament burn out and replacement problems. Always carry a backup lighting system if nothing more than a simple flashlight you can clamp to the handlebar somewhere.
Thanks, I found where the headlight bulb costs about $5.
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Old 06-30-07, 04:14 PM   #14
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Bulbs used for bicycle dynamo systems are relativity expensive and burn out after 20 or so hours of use.
Not in my experience. I've run a Lumotec DIWA Oval, Secondary E6 light and a taillight since January and have replaced one bulb.
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Old 06-30-07, 04:19 PM   #15
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I agree with the other posters that suggeseted getting a whole new or "winter wheel" built up. This is exactly my plan for this winter. I have been putting a little cash aside when I can since I really won't need them for at least three maybe four months. In fact I have not even priced it out yet I just suspect it will be closer to $150 than $100.
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Old 06-30-07, 04:43 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Not in my experience. I've run a Lumotec DIWA Oval, Secondary E6 light and a taillight since January and have replaced one bulb.
My first Lumotec bulb needed replacement after 9 months of use, and I run the light so it's always on when I pedal. I was impressed. I paid $6 for it, but the extra $1 was worth the convenience of being able to ride to a store a mile away and come home with it.
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Old 06-30-07, 04:48 PM   #17
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Just replace the hub and forget about the winter wheel thing. Do you install lights on your car in the winter? A hub generator eliminates the possibility of being caught out after dark without a light, and provides a real liberating feeling.

I have been running a lumotec halogen headlight for three years now (powered by a Schmidt), and have not burned a bulb out yet. On the other hand, the lumotec LED on my other bike has almost exactly the same light pattern, less drag (not noticeable when riding, but it is on the stand), and as previously stated, they essentially don't burn out.

If you are used to the megawattage provided by some battery-powered trail riding lights, these lights do not put out a huge amount of light, but I find them plenty for anything short of a 40 mph descent in a setting with no other lighting. For that, I have a secondary light (don't know if the shimano will handle 2 headlights).
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Old 06-30-07, 05:42 PM   #18
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I started out thinking that I would replace the dynamo wheel in the summer. After four years, the spare wheel still sits in my garage, having never been used since I took it off the bike. The drag is so slight and the convenience so great that there is no reason to do so. I've got three years on my present Lumotec bulb. That's at least a hundred hours, since I use the headlights by day when it rains. At some point, I will probably go to LED, but the small size of the halogen bulbs helps them focus well.

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Old 07-07-07, 09:11 PM   #19
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My single bike, my tandem and my daughter's bike are all equipped with a dynohub. I built the wheel myself with new shorter spokes (and re-used the rim), so cost was kept relatively low.

As for headlights, avoid the Shimano headlight, because they use an under-volted bulb to avoid bulb failure at high speed. Either get the switched DLumotec (LED) or Lumotec (standard halogen) for city riding, or the Schmidt E-6 if you plan on riding on pitch dark roads. IMy daughter uses my old Lumotec (she doesn't do much night riding) and I use the E-6. All three systems use a 3 W main headlight bulb and a battery taillight.

As for 'keeping the old wheel to use when the generator isn't needed", I find that the greatest advantage of the generator system is to be always there. Swapping wheels would defeat that purpose.
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Old 07-07-07, 09:20 PM   #20
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That hub + a Lumotec Oval Plus headlight, and a B&M DToplight tail light on my commuter. It's been great, very little drag with the lights on, none when they are off. The hub also has threads for a rotor if you ever want to go with a front disk.

+1 on avoiding the Shimano headlight, in comparison to the Lumotecs, it was a toy, the hub however is a fine piece of machinery.
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Old 07-08-07, 01:04 AM   #21
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Get one!

Hi there....I was in your same position a few months ago...I build my own wheels and wanted to wheel with a generator hub....the flanges are pretty high, so chances are you will definitely need new spokes...

I built the wheel using Deep Vs, so it's pretty slick looking...i actually use it between two bikes (my around town fixie/porteur bike and my loaded touring bike)...

it's nice to never have to worry about batteries...however a good headlight is key...i bought an InoLed 10+ LED light from peter white cycles and am happy with it....not quite as bright as my niterider head light, but bright enough to see with and it has a "stand" light, so it doesn't shut off at a stop...
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Old 07-08-07, 07:59 AM   #22
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Is the Sturmey Archer Dynamo Drum Brake worth a look? Seems like great bang for the buck to me, especially for winter use!

Edit: After reading about this wondrous Inolight 10+ Headlight, I'm shocked to hear, "...if you ride fast enough without a taillight plugged in, the Inolights will overheat and the internal circuitry will be damaged." I'd think it would be quite simple to add regulator circuitry in there, especially for a $100.00 headlight!

Last edited by Ornery; 07-08-07 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 07-08-07, 11:57 AM   #23
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I recommend the hub. I have these and the Schmidt, and while the Schmidt might be prettier and a hair less drag-imposing (mostly no difference though) the Shimano works well. I suggest using a Lumotec halogen with a standlight--they make oval and round with both manual and automatic switching versions of that lamp. You can get a plug for the Shimano hub at Harris Cyclery if your hub doesn't already come with one. That will make it possible to mate the hub with any of the several lamps available for the Schmidt hub.

If you are looking to put it on an existing wheel, unless you are using super-costly rims, it would be more cost-effective to have a complete new wheel made, since your spoke calculation might change and everything would be same age/ wear.
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Old 07-08-07, 11:57 AM   #24
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You will have to get different spokes and have a wheel built, same holds true for internal hubs on the rear wheels. It's larger than a normal hub, not freakishly so but it's larger.

I'd love to get my hands on that Sturmey-Archer hub and see what it's like. From what I've gleamed off the net, it has more drag than the Shimano hubs, but still less than a bottle generator, and the brake is adequate with the potential to have an over heat problem on long heavy descents. But that's second and third hand opinion; I'd still like it to build a completely inclosed commuter (internal hub, roller, coster, or drum brakes, dynohub, chaincase).
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Old 07-09-07, 07:35 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenG
That hub + a Lumotec Oval Plus headlight, and a B&M DToplight tail light on my commuter.
I have exactly the same setup. It is a bit heavy but then if you're on the commuting thread, you're probably already hulking around a ton of cra@p.

I keep the light on at all times and really like never having to worry about lights or whatever.
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