Questions about Sturmey-Archer FG 4-sp dynohub
12-15-07, 07:26 PM
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Questions about Sturmey-Archer FG 4-sp dynohub
Originally posted in the Mechanics forum, but no one is biting.
I really like the idea of commuting on a bike using a hub like this:
https://cgi.ebay.ca/Vintage-Sturmey-A...QQcmdZViewItem
but I don't have any experience with internal-gear hubs. If it needs repairs later on, are parts available? Are FG hubs as reliable as AW's? How long-lived are they? (This one dates from 1960). What shifter do I use, and is it hard to come by? Do FG hubs have any quirks I need to know about?
Those are the big questions for now... if anyone has any information to share, I'd really appreciate it
I really like the idea of commuting on a bike using a hub like this:
https://cgi.ebay.ca/Vintage-Sturmey-A...QQcmdZViewItem
but I don't have any experience with internal-gear hubs. If it needs repairs later on, are parts available? Are FG hubs as reliable as AW's? How long-lived are they? (This one dates from 1960). What shifter do I use, and is it hard to come by? Do FG hubs have any quirks I need to know about?
Those are the big questions for now... if anyone has any information to share, I'd really appreciate it
12-16-07, 09:40 AM
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Stay away from that thing. All it's suitable for is a display in a bicycle museum. Old SA dynamo hubs used magnets housed in steel poles. If you try to take it apart for service the magnets will lose what little magnetism they have remaining after so many years. If you want a dynamo hub for your commuter go ahead and spend the money for a quality new dynamo hub.
12-16-07, 10:20 AM
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Depends on what you plan for it. I have commuted on the old AW hub for thousands of miles and put thousands on the front dyno hub. Both still work fine. FWIW I have two of the combo hubs, an FG and an AG. The FG is getting built up in 700c wheel to go on my "club racer" build up. The AG is going with a 26x1-3/8" Weinman alloy rim to get put on my beater Raleigh Sports.
Both are dependable hubs IMHO. Parts can be an issue, but are available if you search. You will need an early model 3/4 speed trigger shifter for the FG. They are out there.
If you are looking for the best available technology, get a Nexus set up (to the best of my knowledge they don't make a combo hub), it will cost more, but it will be brand new and there have been improvements in the generator department as well as the internal geared hubs. Sturmey Archer does still make generator hubs and internal geared hubs, but not in the combination units. Availability in the US is sporadic in my searches. YMMV
Also the dynohub can be serviced, just don't separate the magnets from the ring. I have torn them down many times. Here is a LINK to a set of service manuals for the various hubs.
Aaron
Both are dependable hubs IMHO. Parts can be an issue, but are available if you search. You will need an early model 3/4 speed trigger shifter for the FG. They are out there.
If you are looking for the best available technology, get a Nexus set up (to the best of my knowledge they don't make a combo hub), it will cost more, but it will be brand new and there have been improvements in the generator department as well as the internal geared hubs. Sturmey Archer does still make generator hubs and internal geared hubs, but not in the combination units. Availability in the US is sporadic in my searches. YMMV
Also the dynohub can be serviced, just don't separate the magnets from the ring. I have torn them down many times. Here is a LINK to a set of service manuals for the various hubs.
Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Last edited by wahoonc; 12-16-07 at 10:30 AM.
12-16-07, 11:49 AM
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Yep the Sun CR-18's are back in stock in a 26x1-3/8" and there are several if you use the 700c wheels.
Aaron
Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
12-16-07, 04:25 PM
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Thanks, wahoonc! It turns out shipping would have been in the neighbourhood of $80 anyway, so I think I might as well stick with new parts after all.
12-16-07, 08:56 PM
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So I buy a few things and have them shipped to his apartment, then when he makes his trip home he has a suitcase half filled with dad's crap
Best one so far is the 16" wheel with Dyno hub that is making it's way home this week....wonder what he tells Customs
Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
12-17-07, 02:22 AM
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I hope so, as I just ordered one along with the matching 32 holer. I also inquired about shipping on that hub. Puts it out of my price range for sure. Now if someone just had to have it to complete a restoration I guess it would be worth it.
12-17-07, 04:23 AM
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If you are looking for the best available technology, get a Nexus set up (to the best of my knowledge they don't make a combo hub), it will cost more, but it will be brand new and there have been improvements in the generator department as well as the internal geared hubs.
The SON-Rohloff setup will cost you a couple of limbs compared to Nexii though.
--J
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12-17-07, 09:43 AM
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I respectfully disagree. If you want the top notch technology with no expense spared, you should go with a SON dynohub and a Rohloff rear hub. The SON will have less drag than a Nexus, the Rohloff will have better gear range. Rohloff also has more gears, which may be a plus for some. In addition they're both probably more durable than any Nexus, but I don't know if any thorough comparison has been made in that respect.
The SON-Rohloff setup will cost you a couple of limbs compared to Nexii though.
--J
The SON-Rohloff setup will cost you a couple of limbs compared to Nexii though.
--J
I should have said "best valued tecnology" No argument from me that the SON and the Rohloff are state of the art and top notch.Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
11-18-17, 09:04 PM
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It's been a while since this thread has had life, but I want to add something. I just bought a used "Dyno Four" SA hub with dynamo. I'm going to use this on my 1952 Rudge Aero Sport, which has a lot of promise as a great road rider. I would like to lower the gearing. With the standard 48/17 sprockets on an AW hub and the standard 27x1 ¼ tires, I get gears 102.9, 77.15, and 57.86. With modern distance bikes like my Trek 610, I like something 35 gear inches or better.
The FB hub will help a little. Looking at "www.sturmeyarcherheritage.com" I find that this hub is probably a wide-range FB model. The gear ratios accordingly are 1.266, 1.000, 0.789, and 0.667 just like the FW non-dyno four-speed. The gear ratios if bolted on will be 97.7, 77.15, 60.9, and 51.46. The lower range is extended downward by about 11.1%, which is not as much as I want. On our hills I'm gonna need more gear!
By decreasing the chainring to 44 teeth the top gear reduces to 89.5 inches and the bottom gear to 47.17, for a net reduction 18.5%. Better, but I would like to get down to 35 gear inches.
Has anybody built a 46/30 compact onto one of these old Clubman or Super Lenton-type frames? I've just read a lot about the incredible racers and long-distance riders who proved out these hubs and these bicycles, and I just don't have chops that good.
But anything beyond changing the sprocket and chainring seems too much trouble if even possible.
The FB hub will help a little. Looking at "www.sturmeyarcherheritage.com" I find that this hub is probably a wide-range FB model. The gear ratios accordingly are 1.266, 1.000, 0.789, and 0.667 just like the FW non-dyno four-speed. The gear ratios if bolted on will be 97.7, 77.15, 60.9, and 51.46. The lower range is extended downward by about 11.1%, which is not as much as I want. On our hills I'm gonna need more gear!
By decreasing the chainring to 44 teeth the top gear reduces to 89.5 inches and the bottom gear to 47.17, for a net reduction 18.5%. Better, but I would like to get down to 35 gear inches.
Has anybody built a 46/30 compact onto one of these old Clubman or Super Lenton-type frames? I've just read a lot about the incredible racers and long-distance riders who proved out these hubs and these bicycles, and I just don't have chops that good.
But anything beyond changing the sprocket and chainring seems too much trouble if even possible.
11-18-17, 11:08 PM
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i use an aw alloy shelled hub from 1954 with 3 chainrings and it works wonderfully. i have a range from27 inches to 80 inches. i think you want to be careful in the lower gears because the hub isnt really rated for it but i am 200lbs and its survived the steepest hills i can find. it also rolls really easy.
11-19-17, 08:27 PM
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i use an aw alloy shelled hub from 1954 with 3 chainrings and it works wonderfully. i have a range from27 inches to 80 inches. i think you want to be careful in the lower gears because the hub isnt really rated for it but i am 200lbs and its survived the steepest hills i can find. it also rolls really easy.
11-19-17, 08:45 PM
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