trek classic frame for a commuter
#1
stringbreaker
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trek classic frame for a commuter
I know its been hashed about here before but I want to build a really decent commuter. The only must have criteria are it has to have 700c wheels and it must be able to have fenders. Probably those planet bike numbers but thats not a must either just that it has fenders. So all you commuters help me build this thing and give me some good ideas. I want to use a double up front since my commute is on flat ground. so what is a good Trek frame to start with or if there is a better one I'm game. I want this bike to be made from decent components but I'm not going to break the bank. Ok Help me out
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#3
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Their touring frames would work well, I think: 520, 620, 720. They tend to be somewhat pricey for older bikes though. Even the ones made for 27" wheels should give you little trouble converting to 700. In fact, it will add a tad bit of fender clearance.
I am building up a 620 right now. Double butted 531 tubing, lots of eyelets, and canti brakes. I am going to put a Nexus 7spd rear on it. Mine was made for 27" wheels, and I just had to be sure the brakes I found had enough downward adjustment to grab the 4mm smaller wheels.
jim
I am building up a 620 right now. Double butted 531 tubing, lots of eyelets, and canti brakes. I am going to put a Nexus 7spd rear on it. Mine was made for 27" wheels, and I just had to be sure the brakes I found had enough downward adjustment to grab the 4mm smaller wheels.
jim
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#4
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I'm not locked into Trek but something of that quality, Cannondale maybe?
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#5
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C-dales are very different bikes compared to Treks. Also, very nice. Lighter, since they are aluminum, for one thing. Also, fairly pricey.
I am a fan of older steel road bikes, and so I would recommend looking around to see what you can find and go from there. Many japanese bikes from the 80's are super cheap and surprisingly high quality. Look for butted cro-mo tubing, and you have a winner.
jim
I am a fan of older steel road bikes, and so I would recommend looking around to see what you can find and go from there. Many japanese bikes from the 80's are super cheap and surprisingly high quality. Look for butted cro-mo tubing, and you have a winner.
jim
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Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
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Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
--------------------------
SB forever
#6
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Thanks for the tip. Got some feelers out now. I have some really nice Suntour NOS brake calipers and a 105 front derailleur. I hope to find one I can use a modern group on just depends what I can find
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What are you looking for? I mean do you want a racing bike to get to work faster, a more laid back geometry so it is a bit more comfortable, do you need braze-ons for racks?
I do like the 80's Treks. I doubt you'd need the newer components. Even the bottom of the line 80's Treks had pretty good components. Some of those older Treks can get pricey. Especially the touring models, but you can find some great deals on the lesser wanted bikes. And they are good bikes. I have an '85 Trek 400 that I really like. It fits me perfectly. I got it for $66 and it was in great shape. I did put newer components on this bike along with 700c wheels, not because it needed it, I just wanted to do that. This did make me get new brakes because the older ones didn't have enough reach and I just like dual pivot brakes more than single pivot.
I also agree with the 80's Japanese bikes. Very nice. But with them, you need to look a little closer at the models and components. Unlike the Treks, they also made some bikes that weren't so good.
Also, if you are looking for a comfortable good bike, I like late 80's early 90's mountain bikes. The frames are built more like touring bikes. A bit heavier than the road bikes, but very nicely built. I am actually building a touring bike now out of an older Bianchi mountain bike. It is very comfortable, has the braze ons for racks and fenders and it was cheap. I am changing this one also. I am keeping most of the components but I decided to put on drop bars and change the shifting to bar ends.
I do like the 80's Treks. I doubt you'd need the newer components. Even the bottom of the line 80's Treks had pretty good components. Some of those older Treks can get pricey. Especially the touring models, but you can find some great deals on the lesser wanted bikes. And they are good bikes. I have an '85 Trek 400 that I really like. It fits me perfectly. I got it for $66 and it was in great shape. I did put newer components on this bike along with 700c wheels, not because it needed it, I just wanted to do that. This did make me get new brakes because the older ones didn't have enough reach and I just like dual pivot brakes more than single pivot.
I also agree with the 80's Japanese bikes. Very nice. But with them, you need to look a little closer at the models and components. Unlike the Treks, they also made some bikes that weren't so good.
Also, if you are looking for a comfortable good bike, I like late 80's early 90's mountain bikes. The frames are built more like touring bikes. A bit heavier than the road bikes, but very nicely built. I am actually building a touring bike now out of an older Bianchi mountain bike. It is very comfortable, has the braze ons for racks and fenders and it was cheap. I am changing this one also. I am keeping most of the components but I decided to put on drop bars and change the shifting to bar ends.
Last edited by SweetLou; 03-08-08 at 03:06 AM.
#8
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Yep I want braze ons for fenders and racks would be nice although I can get around that issue as long as there are holes in the drop outs. I want a more relaxed frame for comfort but no shock fork. Steel is what I'd really like. What are some of the mountain bike model that would be good candidates with the ability to use a 700c wheelset. Perhaps a late 80's schwinn mountain bike frame or did they have a decent touring frame in those days? I'd love to find a cheap but quality frame to work with. I'm not sure about how to set this bike up which is why I'm asking. I'm open to any and all suggestions then I can write some of this down and start the process of elimination.
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Oh, I forgot about the 700c wheel. I don't know any mountain bikes that can do that. Well, a 700c wheel will fit on my Bianchi, but I would have to swap out the cantilever brakes and put on side pull.
Why is 700c so important? I can understand not wanting 27" but what is wrong with 26" mountain bike wheels?
Why is 700c so important? I can understand not wanting 27" but what is wrong with 26" mountain bike wheels?
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I agree about the "why 26" vs 700 wheels?"
HOw long is the commute? if it is a LONG commute, then I can see 700 wheels... for speed, etc over flat ground. If it is not too far (5-6 miles one way), you can dress up a decent steel mtn type bike with slicker tires, racks, lights, fenders, and that will work great. Lots of early 90's Trek 720/820/920 bikes out there for easy money. I worked up a Peugeot US Express MTN/hybrid type bike for winter commuting. Has a slacker geometry, room for fenders, even put a 3-speed hub in the back (it fit!)
otherwise hunt around for Miyata, Nishiki, Azuki, Panasonic, Centurion, Fuji S-12, and others. there are high and low end models, but for commuting, they are all good.
HOw long is the commute? if it is a LONG commute, then I can see 700 wheels... for speed, etc over flat ground. If it is not too far (5-6 miles one way), you can dress up a decent steel mtn type bike with slicker tires, racks, lights, fenders, and that will work great. Lots of early 90's Trek 720/820/920 bikes out there for easy money. I worked up a Peugeot US Express MTN/hybrid type bike for winter commuting. Has a slacker geometry, room for fenders, even put a 3-speed hub in the back (it fit!)
otherwise hunt around for Miyata, Nishiki, Azuki, Panasonic, Centurion, Fuji S-12, and others. there are high and low end models, but for commuting, they are all good.
Last edited by Sigurdd50; 03-08-08 at 01:31 PM.
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#12
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I have one 26 inch tired bike and after riding my other bikes with the 700c wheels it seem to be a better ride and besides I need a new project and thought this would be a fun one. No particular reason for this build just something to broaden my skills or insights or whatever you want to call it for building up a bike. I might even sell this one or sell my current commuter who knows
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#13
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Vintage Trek
Vintage Schwinn
Check out these two threads for info on 2 old steel frame bikes that were converted to 700c wheels and nexus hubs.
Mine is the trek and I use it daily for commuting to work.
Vintage Schwinn
Check out these two threads for info on 2 old steel frame bikes that were converted to 700c wheels and nexus hubs.
Mine is the trek and I use it daily for commuting to work.
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Those old steel Trek frames were very, very nice. I really like the colors and the logo as well. I would not hesitate to snap one in my size for any purpose (restoration, modern-retro rebuild, commuter, fixed gear, etc.).
Last edited by barba; 03-08-08 at 11:14 AM.
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Also look for late 80s - early 90s Specialized. I have a yard-sale Rock Hopper that's bombproof. Put some racks and fenders on it, maybe change the bars to mustache or North Road, and you have a great commuter.
#16
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But the 400's (400, 410, 420, etc) were pretty decent. Not pretentious, well executed, decently spec'd.
I'd bet on a chromo Schwinn from that era, or Panasonic, Fuji, really, any of the Japanese brands were pretty good, repeatably good.
#17
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If you decide to go with a trek, this website should help in finding the right price and has some other good information. I bought an '89 trek 520 for commuting/recreation/future touring, but it can require some patience to find such a bike in good condition and in the right size. I haven't had any issues with the 27" wheels, I'm curious as to why you want 700c. Do you already have a wheel set that you're going to put on the bike?
#18
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So I've been wondering: is my 610 a touring bike? I was under the impression it was, due to the rack mounts (it has a rear rack), but it didn't come with cantis. Also I see here people saying the 620 was the touring model.
So if the 610 isn't then is it just a plain ol' road bike?
So if the 610 isn't then is it just a plain ol' road bike?
#19
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to thinkistobe. I have some 700c and a set of brand 27" alloys so its a toss up just want to find the right frame. This isn't something I need to do like right now I'm thinking for future builds. I've had any number of different component ideas batting around and haven't settled on any just gettin input. Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming. Oh and some pictures of completed projects like this would be great to see what some of you have done.
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So I've been wondering: is my 610 a touring bike? I was under the impression it was, due to the rack mounts (it has a rear rack), but it didn't come with cantis. Also I see here people saying the 620 was the touring model.
So if the 610 isn't then is it just a plain ol' road bike?
So if the 610 isn't then is it just a plain ol' road bike?
check out https://www.vintage-trek.com/TrekBrochure1984Sport.htm
#21
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My serial number is in the 1981 24" frame range. Were sport models around then? If not what is it? I looked on vintage Trek but didn't find any answers.
PS: Mine definitely isn't an '84. It's got a Suntour Cyclone II group, as opposed to the Shimano 600 group for the '84 610.
PS: Mine definitely isn't an '84. It's got a Suntour Cyclone II group, as opposed to the Shimano 600 group for the '84 610.
#22
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One of my commuter bikes is an older Norco roadie that happens to have good clearance for real world tires and fenders. It's so old and cheap that it uses the drop outs where you had to add your own deraileur hanger that slid on over the axle and sat in the long semi horizontal dropouts.
I ended up making it a single speed and I love it. 21 lbs and I set the gearing such that I can just barely grunt up the 4 parkade ramps when I get to work and cruise comfy like at around 18 to 22 mph on the flat without overspinning.
And if your route is truly flat why not look at a single speed? They have less to clean and maintain and are not nearly so tempting to thieves. It's hilly around here so I have to pick and choose my routes and trips for the single but if I was going out for a river road run where it's as flat as the slope of the river I'd have no qualms about doing a metric century on that bike at all.... well, my body would complain but that's 54 years of "experience" doing the moaning. The spirit is still young...
I ended up making it a single speed and I love it. 21 lbs and I set the gearing such that I can just barely grunt up the 4 parkade ramps when I get to work and cruise comfy like at around 18 to 22 mph on the flat without overspinning.
And if your route is truly flat why not look at a single speed? They have less to clean and maintain and are not nearly so tempting to thieves. It's hilly around here so I have to pick and choose my routes and trips for the single but if I was going out for a river road run where it's as flat as the slope of the river I'd have no qualms about doing a metric century on that bike at all.... well, my body would complain but that's 54 years of "experience" doing the moaning. The spirit is still young...
#23
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So I've been wondering: is my 610 a touring bike? I was under the impression it was, due to the rack mounts (it has a rear rack), but it didn't come with cantis. Also I see here people saying the 620 was the touring model.
So if the 610 isn't then is it just a plain ol' road bike?
So if the 610 isn't then is it just a plain ol' road bike?
#25
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