So what's the latest dealio on generator hubs?
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So what's the latest dealio on generator hubs?
Thinking of building up my next ride with hub powered lights rather than battery powered ones.
Anyone have the low down on current most popular choices?
I did some searching and Shimano seems to be popular for low drag.
Anyone have any advice?
Anyone have the low down on current most popular choices?
I did some searching and Shimano seems to be popular for low drag.
Anyone have any advice?
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When on, the lastest SON, SRAM iLight and Shimano 3N7x are pretty much all equal. When off, the least efficient it the SRAM, then Shimano's, then SON.
For cost-efficiency, I'd say the Shimano is the best so far if you turn it off. If you always keep it on, I'd go with SRAM's. If you have money to spend, go with SON.
For cost-efficiency, I'd say the Shimano is the best so far if you turn it off. If you always keep it on, I'd go with SRAM's. If you have money to spend, go with SON.
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Oh and I know Sturmey-Archer does them too, but I don't know how they are. If anyone knows what they are like, it would be fun to know.
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Aaron
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Bicycle Quarterly did a nice review of hubs.
Having had a SON and using a Shimano hub at present - if money is an issue get the Shimano hub. It's 80% of the SON at less than 50% the cost. If you've got lots of $$$ and like bling the SON is very nice and is probably worth the extra cost if you keep it for the long haul.
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... As for headlights, get the Lumotec IQ Fly. It is 2-3 times brighter than the Schmidt E-6 for roughly the same price.
Or wait for the new Schmidt E-delux that should come around this June. It should also be more expensive.
Or wait for the new Schmidt E-delux that should come around this June. It should also be more expensive.
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I actually ordered the DLumotec Oval plus, based on the similarity to the Halogen version. I am not real picky about my light patterns...
Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
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RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
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I have a Shimano Alfine (disc) dynamo up front with a Lumotech IQ Fly n-plus senso, and a Lumotech DToplight XS in back. I love this setup so much I can hardly stand it.
https://stankertanker.blogspot.com/20...-wheel-to.html
Joey French
https://stankertanker.blogspot.com/20...-wheel-to.html
Joey French
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For lights this is rumored to be the best thing going.
https://www.supernova-lights.com/en/p...3_english.html
https://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails...gId=39&id=2759
Not cheap but then... you never need to buy batteries.
https://www.supernova-lights.com/en/p...3_english.html
https://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails...gId=39&id=2759
Not cheap but then... you never need to buy batteries.
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I have a Shimano Alfine (disc) dynamo up front with a Lumotech IQ Fly n-plus senso, and a Lumotech DToplight XS in back. I love this setup so much I can hardly stand it.
https://stankertanker.blogspot.com/20...-wheel-to.html
Joey French
https://stankertanker.blogspot.com/20...-wheel-to.html
Joey French
The supernova looks awesome but a bit pricey.
Maybe if i needed to SEE but mostly I just need to be SEEN.
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For lights this is rumored to be the best thing going.
https://www.supernova-lights.com/en/p...3_english.html
https://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails...gId=39&id=2759
Not cheap but then... you never need to buy batteries.
https://www.supernova-lights.com/en/p...3_english.html
https://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails...gId=39&id=2759
Not cheap but then... you never need to buy batteries.
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The beam of the E6 is very long but narrow and is a boon if you do a lot of fast night riding, but objects outside the relatively narrow beam do get shadowy, so if you're making a lot of turns on unlit streets, it's sometimes hard to see potholes or curb sides.
The Fly's beam is not quite as long, but it's much wider, and it illuminates near objects rather well. For commuting, it's perfect, and the light is extremely visible from at least 200 yards away. (as in, the intersection that my girl turns on to approach our apartment is about 200 yards from our door, and it's very easy to see her approach). I've been able to spot her DToplight generator taillight from about a quarter mile away.
As far as specific hub models go ... I have a SON, but I agree that if one is working in a tight budget, the Shimano is a fine competitor. As far as added resistance goes, to my mind, the drag on the SON when it's on is relatively innocuous. I've started more than a few morning commutes with the lights on from last night, and only noticed when I'd be approaching a car at an intersection and would see my lights reflected back at me.
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For lights this is rumored to be the best thing going.
https://www.supernova-lights.com/en/p...3_english.html
https://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails...gId=39&id=2759
Not cheap but then... you never need to buy batteries.
https://www.supernova-lights.com/en/p...3_english.html
https://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails...gId=39&id=2759
Not cheap but then... you never need to buy batteries.
SON28 and E3 light ~ $450
500 lumen LED or HID with Li-on battery ~ $500
Extra battery when the current one wears out ~ $75
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The new shimano hubs are great, you really don't notice the drag.
It will cost $200 to get a wheel-build that includes a shimano hub. Thats about $150-$170 more than what you would spend on batteries and charger.
If you ride at night very often, it is a good investment. For your $150 you never need to worry about changing batteries or getting caught without batteries. If that is worth $150 to you, get a generator hub.
It will cost $200 to get a wheel-build that includes a shimano hub. Thats about $150-$170 more than what you would spend on batteries and charger.
If you ride at night very often, it is a good investment. For your $150 you never need to worry about changing batteries or getting caught without batteries. If that is worth $150 to you, get a generator hub.
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The SON/E3 setup will only cost $450 over the lifetime of the system. The lamp itself is rated to 100,000 hours, and I haven't heard of anyone wearing out a SON28 hub.
The $75 replacement battery was referencing the price you'll have to shell out every 3 or 4 years after buying a $500 lighting kit, to keep the system working when the original battery conks out.
Now, there's also the argument of is it cheaper to replace a battery every 3-4 years, or replace your front rim every time you wear it out?
- How fast do you burn through a rim? Rim brakes will speed that up, but the SON28 comes in a disc model now, so you can go that route and eliminate the rim issues.
- Do you build your own wheels or pay for the build? That's going to influence cost greatly. It's typically $40-$50 just in labour for a wheel build-up.
If you use rim brakes and wear through a rim in a couple of winters, ride a pricey rim like a CxP33 or Deep V, and pay a builder for your wheels, then the upkeep of the SON28 would be just as much (or more) than the upkeep on replacement batteries.
Then you just need to look at convenience factors like remembering to charge the battery.
Honestly, when you start getting into the pricey systems like these, it's less about output comparison and more about upkeep efforts.
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You do not need a separate voltage regulator. I believe a regulator is actually built into the hub.
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Happy riding,
André
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A few precisions:
Spokenword:
Strictly speaking, the voltage regulator is not built in the hub, but rather built in the light. The generator produces a constant 0,5 A, at a voltage that increases when you ride faster. Headlights such as the E-6 and the Lumotec have a zeener diode that caps the current at 6,7 or 6,8 V. In the LED-based offerings by Lumotec (DLumotec and Lumotec IQ FLy), SuperNova and the upcoming Schmidt E-delux, the headlight has a different circuitry that produces the same result: keeping the voltage in check.
Jeffbeerman2 and CliftonGK1:
I have saved money by ordering my hubs from Peter White, buying my spokes locally and building my own wheels. That way, I was able to recycle the rims I had. Building the wheels was fairly easy. I simply followed the late Sheldon Brown's wheelbuilding instructions. I built the wheel on the floor and used the bike as truing stand and a small screwdriver as feeler. The first wheel I built took me 4-5 hours on two nights; I now build them in about 1-2 hours, truing included.
Spokenword:
Thanks for the side by side comparison of the E-6 and IQ Fly. I used to have an E-6 main and a Lumotec (round) secondary that was a carryover from yet more ancient days. When I received the IQ Fly, I removed the Lumotec secondary and wired the E-6 main differently to use it as a secondary headlight with the Lumotec IQ Fly.
How did I "convert" the E-6 ?
I did not break anything. In a nutshell, I keep the E-6 permanently on and have installed a bypass switch in parallel to short it out of the circuit. I have installed the E-6 + bypass switch in series with the IQ Fly. I aim the E-6 a bit higher than I used to. With the little experience I have on pitch-dark roads, I find that the E-6 truly adds to the reach when I ride faster than 20-25 km/h. Probably not worthed if I had to buy the secondary light, but since I already had it, the 3 $ switch is a worthy investment.
Spokenword:
Strictly speaking, the voltage regulator is not built in the hub, but rather built in the light. The generator produces a constant 0,5 A, at a voltage that increases when you ride faster. Headlights such as the E-6 and the Lumotec have a zeener diode that caps the current at 6,7 or 6,8 V. In the LED-based offerings by Lumotec (DLumotec and Lumotec IQ FLy), SuperNova and the upcoming Schmidt E-delux, the headlight has a different circuitry that produces the same result: keeping the voltage in check.
Jeffbeerman2 and CliftonGK1:
I have saved money by ordering my hubs from Peter White, buying my spokes locally and building my own wheels. That way, I was able to recycle the rims I had. Building the wheels was fairly easy. I simply followed the late Sheldon Brown's wheelbuilding instructions. I built the wheel on the floor and used the bike as truing stand and a small screwdriver as feeler. The first wheel I built took me 4-5 hours on two nights; I now build them in about 1-2 hours, truing included.
Spokenword:
Thanks for the side by side comparison of the E-6 and IQ Fly. I used to have an E-6 main and a Lumotec (round) secondary that was a carryover from yet more ancient days. When I received the IQ Fly, I removed the Lumotec secondary and wired the E-6 main differently to use it as a secondary headlight with the Lumotec IQ Fly.
How did I "convert" the E-6 ?
I did not break anything. In a nutshell, I keep the E-6 permanently on and have installed a bypass switch in parallel to short it out of the circuit. I have installed the E-6 + bypass switch in series with the IQ Fly. I aim the E-6 a bit higher than I used to. With the little experience I have on pitch-dark roads, I find that the E-6 truly adds to the reach when I ride faster than 20-25 km/h. Probably not worthed if I had to buy the secondary light, but since I already had it, the 3 $ switch is a worthy investment.
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A few precisions:
Jeffbeerman2 and CliftonGK1:
I have saved money by ordering my hubs from Peter White, buying my spokes locally and building my own wheels. That way, I was able to recycle the rims I had. Building the wheels was fairly easy. I simply followed the late Sheldon Brown's wheelbuilding instructions. I built the wheel on the floor and used the bike as truing stand and a small screwdriver as feeler. The first wheel I built took me 4-5 hours on two nights; I now build them in about 1-2 hours, truing included.
Jeffbeerman2 and CliftonGK1:
I have saved money by ordering my hubs from Peter White, buying my spokes locally and building my own wheels. That way, I was able to recycle the rims I had. Building the wheels was fairly easy. I simply followed the late Sheldon Brown's wheelbuilding instructions. I built the wheel on the floor and used the bike as truing stand and a small screwdriver as feeler. The first wheel I built took me 4-5 hours on two nights; I now build them in about 1-2 hours, truing included.
I'm thinking about waiting until I need to swap rims anyhow, and rebuilding my rear wheel at the same time using DT Swiss RR1.2, or Alex DA-28 rims for both.
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#21
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I have a Shimano Alfine (disc) dynamo up front with a Lumotech IQ Fly n-plus senso, and a Lumotech DToplight XS in back. I love this setup so much I can hardly stand it.
https://stankertanker.blogspot.com/20...-wheel-to.html
Joey French
https://stankertanker.blogspot.com/20...-wheel-to.html
Joey French
-Sam
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For lights this is rumored to be the best thing going.
https://www.supernova-lights.com/en/p...3_english.html
https://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails...gId=39&id=2759
Not cheap but then... you never need to buy batteries.
https://www.supernova-lights.com/en/p...3_english.html
https://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails...gId=39&id=2759
Not cheap but then... you never need to buy batteries.
#23
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I don't want to know how much money I have spent after someone posts some neat item on here...
I can claim at least 3-4 bikes and I have no clue as to how many accessories I "had" to have after seeing them on here.
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
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Sorry, I wasn't really clear on what those prices meant.
The SON/E3 setup will only cost $450 over the lifetime of the system. The lamp itself is rated to 100,000 hours, and I haven't heard of anyone wearing out a SON28 hub.
The $75 replacement battery was referencing the price you'll have to shell out every 3 or 4 years after buying a $500 lighting kit, to keep the system working when the original battery conks out.
Now, there's also the argument of is it cheaper to replace a battery every 3-4 years, or replace your front rim every time you wear it out?
- How fast do you burn through a rim? Rim brakes will speed that up, but the SON28 comes in a disc model now, so you can go that route and eliminate the rim issues.
- Do you build your own wheels or pay for the build? That's going to influence cost greatly. It's typically $40-$50 just in labour for a wheel build-up.
If you use rim brakes and wear through a rim in a couple of winters, ride a pricey rim like a CxP33 or Deep V, and pay a builder for your wheels, then the upkeep of the SON28 would be just as much (or more) than the upkeep on replacement batteries.
Then you just need to look at convenience factors like remembering to charge the battery.
Honestly, when you start getting into the pricey systems like these, it's less about output comparison and more about upkeep efforts.
The SON/E3 setup will only cost $450 over the lifetime of the system. The lamp itself is rated to 100,000 hours, and I haven't heard of anyone wearing out a SON28 hub.
The $75 replacement battery was referencing the price you'll have to shell out every 3 or 4 years after buying a $500 lighting kit, to keep the system working when the original battery conks out.
Now, there's also the argument of is it cheaper to replace a battery every 3-4 years, or replace your front rim every time you wear it out?
- How fast do you burn through a rim? Rim brakes will speed that up, but the SON28 comes in a disc model now, so you can go that route and eliminate the rim issues.
- Do you build your own wheels or pay for the build? That's going to influence cost greatly. It's typically $40-$50 just in labour for a wheel build-up.
If you use rim brakes and wear through a rim in a couple of winters, ride a pricey rim like a CxP33 or Deep V, and pay a builder for your wheels, then the upkeep of the SON28 would be just as much (or more) than the upkeep on replacement batteries.
Then you just need to look at convenience factors like remembering to charge the battery.
Honestly, when you start getting into the pricey systems like these, it's less about output comparison and more about upkeep efforts.
But those are essentially separate issues. I mean... unless you throw away your hub every time you wear out a rim, you'd be replacing the front rims anyway. Plus... there's a little bit of drag from the hub (very little from the SON) but still it should mean that you'll have to brake just *slightly* less and your rims will last longer.
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JRA.
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 505
Bikes: '07 IRO Mark V, '01 Cannondale Jekyll 3000, '07 Rivendell Atlantis
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How much have I spent? Don't ask!
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2009 Bike Friday Season Tikit (commuting folder)
2007 Rivendell Atlantis (touring, general riding, errand runner, stuff hauler)
2007 IRO Mark V (SS)
2006 Rockhopper Comp Disc (Icebike)
2009 Bike Friday Season Tikit (commuting folder)
2007 Rivendell Atlantis (touring, general riding, errand runner, stuff hauler)
2007 IRO Mark V (SS)
2006 Rockhopper Comp Disc (Icebike)