quackquack

I think there's a solid chance I'm the least decisive person in the world. I've been going back and forth, over and over again, about what type of bike to get for commuting around the city. I've taken test rides on all sorts of bikes, and I have come to the conclusion that I want some sort of performance-oriented hybrid. Something light and road-like except with flat handlebars to navigate dangerous city streets (and so that I have easy access to brakes). I also was interested (a bit) in touring-style bikes, but they all seem quite a bit more expensive than these.

Within this category I've been looking at the Fuji Absolute 3.0 and Jamis Coda. Here are the specs:

Jamis Coda
https://jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/08_bikes/08coda.html#
FRAME: Reynolds 520 double-butted chromoly main tubes, extended head tube with reinforced collars, double tapered cromo stays, forged dropouts with eyelets
FORK: Chromoly unicrown, bulge butted steerer, low rider braze-ons double eyelets
HEADSET: Aheadset, 1 1/8”
WHEELSET: Alex ACE-24 alloy double-wall rims, 700c, 32H, Formula sealed alloy QR hubs, 14g stainless steel spokes
TIRES: Vittoria Zaffiro, 700 x 28c
DERAILLEURS: Shimano Acera rear , Shimano C-102 bottom pull front
SHIFTERS: SRAM TRX Unilever trigger-shift, 24-speed
CHAIN: KMC Z-82
FREEWHEEL: Shimano CS-HG40, 8-speed, 11-32
CRANKSET: RPM alloy triple, 48/38/28,
170mm (14.5-17.5”), 175mm (19.5-23”).
BOTTOM BRACKET: Sealed cartridge BB, 68 x 113mm
PEDALS: Platform type, steel cage/resin body
BRAKESET: Tektro direct pull brakes with front power modulator and Tektro alloy V-brake levers
HANDLEBAR: Alloy flat bar, 5° bend x 580mm wide
STEM: Alloy Adjustable andle, 100mm (14.5-17.5”), 120mm, (19.5-23”)
GRIPS: WTB Street Smart with reflective end plugs
SEATPOST: Suspension, 45mm travel, 350mm x 27.2mm, alloy clamp, with QR seatpin
SADDLE: Jamis Touring with SL top and satin steel rails, Men & Women specific
WEIGHT: 26.50 lbs.
MSRP: $475

Fuji Absolute 3.0
https://fujibikes.com/2008/bikes.asp?id=469#
Main frame: Fuji Altair 1 aluminum with PowerDiamond down tube, Double water bottle mounts
Rear triangle:Fuji Altair 1 custom tapered aluminum, Fuji forged road dropout with replaceable derailleur hanger
Fork: Fuji 1 1/8" Triple butted Cro-moly Aero with forged dropouts
Crankset: Fuji Alloy Forged 30/42/52T Chainrings
Bottom bracket: Sealed Cartridge Bearing ST
Pedals: Wellgo LU-948 Alloy and plastic platform w/ toeclip
Front derailleur: MicroShift R438, 31.8mm
Rear derailleur : Shimano Alivio
Shifters: SRM MRX Twist Shifter 24sp Micro Index
Cassette: SR Suntour CS-PF44-C8, 11-32T 8-speed
Chain: KMC Z-72
Front hub: Formula Alloy Road, 36h
Rear hub: Formula Alloy Cassette Road, 8-speed, 36H
Spokes: 14G Stainless Steel
Rims: Alex ID-19 Double Wall Al, 36H
Tires: Kenda Kontender, 700 X 28c
Tues: Kenda Presta
Brake set: Fuji Mini-V, Forged Al with modulator
Brake levers: Tektro RT-354A
Headset: V.P. 1 1/8" Standard Semi Cartridge
Handlebar: Fuji Aluminum
Stem: Fuji Adjustable Aluminum
Saddle: Fuji Sport Comfort
Seat post: Fuji Micro-Adjust Aluminum, 300mm
WEIGHT: 23.80 lbs / 10.80 kg
MSRP: $510

It seems to me that the major differences are:
1. The Jamis has a cromoly frame and fork while the Fuji has aluminum frame and cromoly fork.
2. The Jamis weighs 26.5 lbs while the Fuji weighs 23.8 lbs
3. The Fuji crankset is more road-oriented
4. The Fuji is slightly sexier
5. What else? Please tell me!

Which would bike would you get? They feel pretty similar during test rides, but will the all-steel Jamis feel better for long rides than the alu-frame / steel-fork Fuji? Is it worth the 3 pound difference? Am I a bad person because I want to choose one bicycle over another because the color/style ?

Any help is much appreciated.

m_yates

The Jamis also has lower gearing than the Fuji (48/38/28 versus 52/42/30). If you plan on steep hills or off road, the lower gearing could be an advantage.

I personally wouldn't by a bike for commuting unless it has eyelets and clearance to attach fenders. The Jamis specs mention eyelets, but the Fuji description does not mention it. That would be something to check out if you want fenders. Fenders keep water out of your headset and other parts of your frame (and just as importantly keep water off your clothes).

There is a lot of argument of steel versus aluminum. I personally like steel and don't care about weight. I'm generally carrying a bunch of heavy crap anyway (food, clothes, tools, laptop). But the aluminum vs. steel argument can be argued either way. Steel theoretically lasts longer if maintained properly, is easier to repair if damaged, and gives a softer ride. Aluminum is lighter and doesn't rust.

bkrownd

Even 48/38/28 is too big for most practical riding. These racing cranksets are worthless for something like commuting. First thing I do with a new bike is throw away the racing crankset and put on a mountain bike crankset to get nice low gears and get rid of that worthless 52 ring.

Eyelets are important, though there are various ways to clamp on similar mounting points yourself.

Steel vs. aluminum isn't important for a utility bike, and the frame is the least valuable part of the bike anyhow. In 5-10 years you'll have a new one, so it's not something to worry about.

The components on these bikes are pretty low-end - you'll probably upgrade lots of things over the first few years or months.

What you really want to know about these bikes is how they fit your body. Only a test ride will tell you that.

(I have an older version of the Fuji)

The Novara buzz is a similar style bike, btw. They used to come with disk brakes.

m_yates

I have a road triple on my commuting bike and I agree that you generally don't need the 52T ring. My left brifter broke and I have ridden about 180 miles with the front derailleur not working. I set the limit screw to keep the chain in the middle 42T ring on the front. The 42T ring does give plenty of speed and I haven't missed the 52T ring. I have missed the 30T ring going uphill though. I plan on repairing it this weekend.

RonH

Get the Jamis Coda.

LastPlace

I have a Jamis Coda for my commuter and have been very pleased. It is a 2005 model, that I bought in 2006, and it does have eyelets for mounting racks but I have yet to do that.

Mine came with road gearing (30-39-50), so it is good to see that it has been lowered a bit and if I had to change anything it would be the gearing.

My trip is to work is about six miles........when I get off my butt and actually ride......but have no complaints about the bike. I did switch out the stock seat for a Brooks B-17, and have put 'Ergon' grips on the bar and use toe clips instead of clipless.

If I had to do it all again I would buy the same thing......and I bought the Jamis sight unseen, since the closest dealer is about 100 miles away.

quackquack

Thanks for the replies.

I'm almost positive that the Fuji has fender eyelets, but I'll have to check again. I had asked the LBS guy if I could add full fenders at some point (not the beaver-tail style) and he said "absolutely, it's designed to take fenders".

It seems like everyone is recommending the Jamis, I'll have to give it another ride. It's a bit heavier, but really not by much (2.7 lbs), what is that, the weight of a lock? This bike is mainly for commutes under 10 miles, would I notice the steel difference with such a short distance? Also, is the rusting of steel something you legitimately have to worry about? I don't plan on riding in the rain much, very little in fact.

I would like to dip my toe into distance riding, I used to go on a 25 mile loop with a friend a couple years ago, would I start to notice steel at THAT distance? Either way I'll have to outfit whatever bike I get with bar ends to give myself some extra hand positions.

Lurker1999

It's hard to get into weight weenie mode when you're commuting. 2.7 pounds can be the difference between the morning/evening ride if you bring a full lunch with you every day. I'd say don't sweat the difference and buy the Jamis.

Mr. Underbridge

No, I win. Every time I check out another bike web site, I end up with another bike on my list. Right now I'm looking at the Fisher Montare, the Kona Jake series, Jamis Nova, Jamis Allegro3X, Kona Cinder Cone, Stumpjumper HT 29er, and about 5 others.

Is there a 12 step program for this?

mbologna

I bought an '08 Jamis Coda last Fall after much deliberation. My commute is only about 7 miles round trip, but includes some decent hills and lots of urban traffic. For me, it's been the right choice. You can easily attach a rack, fenders, etc. I wanted to try steel since my road bike is Aluminum/Carbon. I also wanted the flat bars so I would be more upright in traffic. I do find the triple helpful and often go through most gear combinations on a single ride. At the price point, I think the Jamis Coda is a great bike.

One thing I didn't see mentioned yet though is the LBS. This may be the most important factor within a price range. I really liked the Trek 7.3, but the service at the local dealer was indifferent at best. I bought my bike from a place called Proteus Bikes in College Park, MD. They were so much better than the Trek dealer, it became the deciding factor, even though it was a good bit out of the way for me.

bkrownd

Not unless you think it's going to become a collector's item in 40 years. Ummm...no.

buzzman

my custom steel frame is in it's 32nd year of existence. no rust yet and thousands of miles in the rain. there's this thing called "paint". does a pretty good jump of keeping the rust off and comes in some really nice colors, too.

o-dog

Proteus = best bike shop ever

I'm guessing the Trek dealer is CP Bikes?

to the OP: I'd go with the Jamis... my Coda Sport has served me well for two years and some change so far.

quackquack

I think I'll end up going with the Coda, I just want to ride it again to make sure.

Also, anyone have experience with KHS brand bikes? I noticed this one:

KHS Flite 250
https://www.khsbicycles.com/05_flite_250_08.htm
Frame: CrMo 4130 Double butted 3-main w/carrier bosses
Fork Carbon w/Alloy steerer
Headset Cane Creek Aheadset
Rims Weinmann XTR16 Doublewall w/CNC sidewall
Hubs Formula alloy QR, Cassette
Tires Kenda Kontender 700X26C
Spokes 14G Stainless 32°
Front Derailleur Shimano FD-R440
Rear Derailleur Shimano RD-2200
Shifters Shimano ST-R221 for Flat Bar
Chain KMC Z82
Crankset Alloy Forged 50/34
Bottom Bracket Sealed cartridge
Cassette SRAM PG-850 11-28, 8 Speed
Pedals Resin w/steel cage
Seatpost Alloy Micro-adjust
Saddle KHS Road Padded
Handlebar Alloy Flat Bar, 580mm
Stem Alloy 17°
Tape Kraton
Brake Levers Shimano ST-R221 for Flat Bar
Brakes Alloy dual pivot
MSRP: $549

Seems pretty similar except with a carbon fork.

o-dog

I'd never commute on a bike with a carbon fork... too fragile/breakable for the rigors of commuting to me

tulip

I have a Jamis Coda Comp for my commuting bike. It's is fantastic. It does have fender eyelets and I've run fenders successfully. It's buttery smooth to ride thanks to its steel frame.

+++1 on Proteus. That's where I got my Coda.

period3

The 48/38/28 is about right for me. I use both the 48 and 38 ring extensively, and I only have about a 5km commute. I wouldn't want to go any lower than 48. Going downhill on my way to work I'm usually in the last gear and it's just about right.

The granny gear is useless though - I don't think I've ever used it, even on steep hills or long rides.

bkrownd

To elaborate on my reasoning... I can get up to 35 mph on my middle (44?) ring. Don't have any need to go faster for utility bike purposes. Waste of energy, IMO. If I'm going downhill I happily coast. I'd prefer to have a 38 middle, because the lowest cog isn't low enough for big hills.

Before my first "road bike" I had a mountain bike and I did stay on the top two gears of the 48 ring, but that's because I was always "mashing" - actually, I rode that bike standing on the pedals most of the time.

quackquack

Hey everybody- Just wanted to let you know that I went with the Coda, and I think I'm in love. In person the bikes seemed to weigh the exact same amount as the Absolute, and the Coda had a buttery ride that could not be matched. Now all that's left to do is get a U-Lock mount.

Is there any reason not to remove the ugly pie plate that came stock? I understand that this is to protect the spokes if the derailleur gets messed up -- is this a non-issue provided that I take reasonable care of this bike and get it tuned up fairly frequently? Is it as easy as popping off the wheel w/ the quick-release, unsnapping the pie plate, and putting the wheel back on? Or am I going to get in over my head.

(in case you hadn't noticed, me = noob)