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SS for 10 mile commute?

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Old 05-09-08, 10:35 AM
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SS for 10 mile commute?

I have an old GT Karakoram with an old Indy SL front fork. The dereaillerus and shifters are kind of fubard from the previous owner not maintaining the bike (He just gave it to me). It's MUCH lighter than my Scott Voltage MTB which I've been using. I was thinking about making it a SS, and throwing on a set of slicks. My question is, how is a SS for a long commute like that? UBER taxing? Or will it be MORE efficient than the heavy, knobby Scott?
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Old 05-09-08, 10:37 AM
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Are you going to keep the freewheel or make it fixed gear? I would say if you're commute is relatively flat and you are going with a freewheeled SS you'd be better off with the lighter bike. Do you use your gears much now? Could you rescue the shifters on the GT or are they beyond hope?
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Old 05-09-08, 10:38 AM
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It depends more on the terrain than the length. IMHO
Of course, you can go with lower or higher gearing.

I was riding my fixed gear with 42X16 gearing 28 miles each way with a 1000 feet of climbing on the way in.
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Old 05-09-08, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by screaminDOHC
I have an old GT Karakoram with an old Indy SL front fork. The dereaillerus and shifters are kind of fubard from the previous owner not maintaining the bike (He just gave it to me). It's MUCH lighter than my Scott Voltage MTB which I've been using. I was thinking about making it a SS, and throwing on a set of slicks. My question is, how is a SS for a long commute like that? UBER taxing? Or will it be MORE efficient than the heavy, knobby Scott?
Everybody really should put their location in their profile, it makes things much easier

If you live in a hilly area, you might have to gear things too low to reach a good speed on flats.

In a flat area you should be OK if its not an area prone to frequent high winds.
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Old 05-09-08, 10:52 AM
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As others have said, it really depends on the terrian you're riding. I do my 13 mile (each way) commute on my SS all the time. But my commute is pretty much pancake flat. Choosing the right gear ratio is important too.
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Old 05-09-08, 10:53 AM
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Whoops, Detroit area, sorry...Suburban Detroit...

Well, it's flat (Like Detroit) I was going to keep the freewheel hub and just get the kit with the cog and spacer. What's a good gear ratio? The old GT has GOT to be 10 pounds heavier than my 06 Scott Voltage...I figured, the lighter weight (even less if I ditch the dereailerus, shifters, etc..)and some thin slicks it would be more efficient.....No, I don't really shift much as it is, only when I stop...when I'm crusing I don't shift much at all currently....I'm in the big chainring, and maybe the 5th cog in the back 90% of the time as it is.

Where is the best/cheapest place to get a conversion?
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Old 05-09-08, 11:00 AM
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https://sheldonbrown.com/gears/

Use that site to find out what gear inches you are using 90% of the time and set it at that for a start. Changing cogs isn't that hard to do later on.
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Old 05-09-08, 11:28 AM
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I ride 17mi ea/way on singlespeed with about 700' of climbing on the way home. I love that I never have to think about the bike. Even with stop lights, it's an hour home and 50 minutes to work, nice and quick. This is with a SS road bike though (Iro Jamie Roy).

I WAS running on my converted mtn bike for a while, an hold Trek 930. I was running 40x15 which was pretty low (read slow, too easy of a gear), as I would spin out at about 20mph. But it was great riding on that with 1.25" slicks. I used the conversion kit from Performance (~$22) and a cog from another bike. The tires were cheap $13 26x1.25 performance Forte tires with a kevlar liner.
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Old 05-09-08, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Slabshaft
I ride 17mi ea/way on singlespeed with about 700' of climbing on the way home. I love that I never have to think about the bike. Even with stop lights, it's an hour home and 50 minutes to work, nice and quick. This is with a SS road bike though (Iro Jamie Roy).

I WAS running on my converted mtn bike for a while, an hold Trek 930. I was running 40x15 which was pretty low (read slow, too easy of a gear), as I would spin out at about 20mph. But it was great riding on that with 1.25" slicks. I used the conversion kit from Performance (~$22) and a cog from another bike. The tires were cheap $13 26x1.25 performance Forte tires with a kevlar liner.
Link for the conversion? Tensioner or no?
I'd be happy as a clam if I could cruise at 20mph LOL Right now average speed on the Scott is like 13mph...a bit too slow for my taste.
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Old 05-09-08, 11:40 AM
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I love my SS. my commute is 5.5 miles one way. if it's flat terrain, go for it!
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Old 05-09-08, 11:43 AM
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With the right gearing, you can ride SS on just about any terrain for that distance. However, be sure to consider how much wind you have to contend with. 10 miles into a strong headwind on SS is no joke if you're geared for nice conditions.
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Old 05-09-08, 11:47 AM
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^^^ that's the truth. I had some 20+ mph winds a couple weeks ago and it felt like I was going about 5 mph.
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Old 05-09-08, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by screaminDOHC
I have an old GT Karakoram with an old Indy SL front fork. The dereaillerus and shifters are kind of fubard from the previous owner not maintaining the bike (He just gave it to me). It's MUCH lighter than my Scott Voltage MTB which I've been using. I was thinking about making it a SS, and throwing on a set of slicks. My question is, how is a SS for a long commute like that? UBER taxing? Or will it be MORE efficient than the heavy, knobby Scott?

Just a word to the wise regarding the fubard shifters, usually all you have to do get the rapid fire shifters to work again is shoot a few squirts of wd40 into them. I have do this once every couple years on my GT.
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Old 05-09-08, 11:54 AM
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I'm not hardcore like DataJunkie but I ride my SS Panic 20RT and for fun. It takes getting used to but it is well worth it! Not too many hills except one and I'm only running 53/20 so it is doable.

By the way, I am a Clydesdale. I'm running about 265 at 6'2"...
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Old 05-09-08, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by screaminDOHC
Link for the conversion? Tensioner or no?
I'd be happy as a clam if I could cruise at 20mph LOL Right now average speed on the Scott is like 13mph...a bit too slow for my taste.

Go fro the White Industries ENO hub and have a wheel built up. Yeah, its a bit pricey but thats what I decided to do on my dumpster save Panic. I have found it totally worth the money!


Hub Goodness
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Old 05-09-08, 11:59 AM
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did SS on a 36 mi RT for a long time...used 42x17 in the winter and 42x15 when things warmed. I put gears on to go fast. I don't like gears in weather, because it means more maintenance.

I recommend 42x17 if you're not an avid every day cyclist, just to start or 42x15 if you're in good shape...of course, it depends on what ring you have on now, but those were good ratios for me.

I'll go back to 42x15 as soon as the winter comes.
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Old 05-09-08, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ban guzzi
Go fro the White Industries ENO hub and have a wheel built up. Yeah, its a bit pricey but thats what I decided to do on my dumpster save Panic. I have found it totally worth the money!


Hub Goodness
I believe harris cyclery has a wheel built with that hub.
Another option.

https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels1.html
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Old 05-09-08, 12:18 PM
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I'd much rather ride a lighter SS than a fully geared MTB for a flat commute. My main commuter is an old Trek 660 with a fixed hub (69 gear inches for winter, 75 for summer) and it's perfect for my 9 mile RT commute or even a 20 mile "detour."
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Old 05-09-08, 11:13 PM
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gears for fears

Originally Posted by screaminDOHC
I have an old GT Karakoram with an old Indy SL front fork. The dereaillerus and shifters are kind of fubard from the previous owner not maintaining the bike (He just gave it to me). It's MUCH lighter than my Scott Voltage MTB which I've been using. I was thinking about making it a SS, and throwing on a set of slicks. My question is, how is a SS for a long commute like that? UBER taxing? Or will it be MORE efficient than the heavy, knobby Scott?

I use a vintage Raleigh converted to a two speed with a 65 and 51 inch gear. It has 27 x1 1/4" wheels and it weighs about 21 pounds without bags and rack, not to mention extra clothes and tools etc. I comfortably cruise at 15-17 mph in the 65 inch gear and can spin it to around 22 mph easily. I can climb moderate freeway over pass grades o.k. but I am nearly 50 years old and weigh 260 pounds. For a spry young buck of lean proportions, you can get away with a taller gear maybe in the 70 inch range or so. I regularly cruise on my geared bikes in a 60-75 inch gear so the 65 works o.k. on my flat route. I did have trouble hanging with some geared riders on the way home today but I didn't fall far behind. It was probably however the wine I had after work that slowed me down, rather than the gearing.
Decent tires and a slightly lower gear than normal on the flats works out well. On a fixed you can go higher on the ratio because of momentum turning the pedals. I prefer to spin in a slightly lower gear at a comfortable pace and save the sweating for when I don't have to work. The slightly lower gearing saves my knees and allows me easier starts and headwinds pose less of a problem. My bike has a second lower gear option for when I am very tired or face a strong headwind or a long climb. I love the fact that the chain is up away from road grit and requires less maintenance, not to mention the bike is lighter and seems to pedal easier without the idler pulleys etc. Go with a single speed and play with the gearing until you find a good compromise. It will help your spin and force you to pedal correctly, since the only way to go faster is to pedal at higher rpm. You will find the rhythm of your ride will change as opposed to riding with gearing. I find that I am less likely to 'hammer' on my single speed and the ride is more relaxing for me.
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Old 05-10-08, 09:29 AM
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Why do Single Speed when you can do 3 speed. Given that 3 speed hubs can be had nearly for free, you can have 3 speeds with similar esthetics and efficiency, but gears for climing, descending, and fighting headwinds.
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Old 05-10-08, 11:21 AM
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I commute all the time on my Raleigh One-Way SS. The trip to work, about 10 miles, is just a gradual uphill grade. The gearing makes the trip challenging, but a good ride.

The way home is a drag, I coast most of the way, and lose a lot of time because I can't shift.
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Old 05-10-08, 01:34 PM
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I go ten miles each way to work on a Bianchi San Jose and it is perfect. Sure, I would like a lower gear sometimes when I have 10 miles home straight into a west wind, but, in the end, my bike is simple and reliable, and I am stronger.

FWIW, I am on a completely flat MUP for the complete 10 miles.
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Old 05-11-08, 09:14 PM
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You don't even have to get a new cog to try it out, if the bike doesn't have vertical drop outs for the rear wheel mounts... as long as you can slide the wheel back and forth, you can string the chain around the front chain ring and one of the middle gears on the freewheeel cluster, (shoren the chain as needed) tighten the heel up and go try it. It'll give you an idea about gearing that works for you too. single speed for now, then get brave and try fixed!
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Old 05-11-08, 10:03 PM
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hmm can't type... shoren is shorten....heel is wheel...
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Old 05-12-08, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by K6-III
Why do Single Speed when you can do 3 speed. Given that 3 speed hubs can be had nearly for free, you can have 3 speeds with similar esthetics and efficiency, but gears for climing, descending, and fighting headwinds.
I would do it like that if I could find one of those free 3 speed hubs.
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